greysmom

PLease make sure she was tested for hookworms. Being off the track doesn't have anything to do with companion pets getting hooks. They are acquired by walking through an environment where they are in the soil, up through the pads of the feet. Also double check about pancreatitis, as mentioned above. If both of those are normal/negative then you are likely dealing with a food intolerance, which can develop over time or even as they age. If your original dry food was chicken-based, switch up to a home made food using a completely different protein - ground beef, or bland white fish as mentioned above. And use overcooked rice or pasta, or peeled-and-mashed white or sweet potatoes, or whole oats for the carb source. You can use the potatoes for a while, but don't stick with them for the long term in a commercial food due to the risk of DCM. If her poops get better on the alternate protein then try and find a food with that as the protein base. You *may* be looking at a prescription diet, but there are a ton of commercial foods available now. They may/may not be cheaper than a prescription so shop around. We have been using Purina Pro Plan Sensitive Stomach Salmon and Rice for over a year now and have been very pleased with the results. We feed less food per day to maintain weight and energy levels, and their poops smaller and firmer. It's a richer food so there was an extended transition time for us, but we've never looked back after that.

It's very normal particularly when beginning treatment. Though if it goes on for more than 48 hours, or she *also* begins vomiting, or she starts pooping blood - call your vet immediately. Make sure she's keeping hydrating by offering lots of clean water and monitoring consumption.

Maybe it fell out when she was upside down? Our first greyhound was a rock collector. She'd pick them up outside and carry them around for a while, then she'd bring them in and put them on her bed! Maybe Kate is starting her own retirement fund!!!

This is something your vet needs to look at sooner rather than later. Particularly if this is getting bigger quickly. Call them today.

First off, you didn't break your dog. This is totally normal behavior. Second, don't stress about it. Let her do what she wants and be where she wants to be and work through whatever she needs to work through. Keep her schedule the same every day - food, walks, treats, potty times. And let her make her own choices about how and where she spends her days while you're working. Yummy treats seem to always help the process, too! A few set backs are normal and she needs to develop confidence in herself and trust in you. And don't forget to do your Alone Training now for whenever you will be going back to work out of the house.

Shedding is a seasonal thing and very individual for every year and every dog. Sometimes they shed more, sometimes less, sometimes earlier, sometimes later. Unless you're seeing big patches of bald skin appearing, or patches of scabby and dry skin, it's probably just normal for him this year. Keep up with daily brushing, and if you want to, give him a bath with a nice oatmeal shampoo to get a bunch of hair out.

Going to start with the caveat that it's nearly impossible to diagnose behavioral issues over the internet. We're not there to see the behavior and the interactions your dog has with the household, so this is kind of just general info on what I *think* may be *a* problem you might be dealing with. In a different world, I would urge to contact a certified animal behaviorist to come into your home and do just that - observe - and give you pointers for how to move forward. This may still be possible of you find a behaviorist who will do a video consult or Skype/Zoom session with you. Your adoption group may have a recommendation for you. It sounds like he's a big time resource guarder, and has now started guarding resources you haven't even given him yet. Usually this only happens after the dog has a resource in his possession - growling, snarling, generally being a butthead when a human tries to take the resource (treat, toy, food, bed) away. In general, you want to distract the dog with a different high enough value treat that he leaves the original object he's guarding for the new one so you can pick up and put it away. In this case, I would ask what sort of training, if any, you have done with him? Does he know any commands at all? Is there any behavior he can offer as a "payment" for receiving his food? Especially at mealtimes, you should practice this "Nothing In Life Is Free" technique (NILIF). So before his unwanted behavior begins, ask him for this "payment" behavior - sit, down, paw, whatever. Once he does the payment he can have his food, not before. This might mean he doesn't get fed a time or two - that's OK. If he's healthy missing a meal isn't going to hurt him. If he's growling and jumping I would definitely keep the kids out of the feeding area during mealtimes, particularly if they are younger that 10 or 12 years old. They're just too vulnerable in case of an accident. If they are older, make sure they understand how the payment-feeding routine works, and have them help. This should happen for EVERYTHING your dog puts in his mouth - he needs to pay for it with a behavior YOU ask for. Greyhounds can be stubborn and they are extremely good people trainers in their own right. Be patient and be consistent for as long as it takes - and it could take a long time if the habit in ingrained. During people mealtimes, decide where you want him to be - his bed, another room, his crate, wherever - and consistently lead/lure him with a treat back to this spot until he stays there during your entire meal. This will take time, and a bunch of people meals will be interrupted until he breaks his begging habit, but he needs to develop some manners. Time and patience and consistent repetition will do the trick. If you need some pointers from an actual really good trainer I would suggest this book: Family Friendly Dog Training by Patricia McConnell

FWIW, we have a Coolaroo-type bed. Some dogs like it, some dogs won't go near it. I think it doesn't feel safe to walk on for some dogs and they need to get used to it. We had an old rectagular Costco bed on it for a while and that seemed to help. It's currently Felicity's go to sunbaffing spot. The biggest difference between the two you linked is the Coolaroo is a woven fabic and the other one is a solid vinyl. One will let liquids through and one won't. The frame for our Coolaroo is a metal (not sure what), not pvc-type, and it's stood up to plenty of weather, playing, moving around, and all sorts of abuse pee-wise. Ours is landscape fabric green and blends in the yard fine, but colors would be fun. I guess it's about what you want really because it seems to be pretty equal.

They do exist, though a truly white greyhound is likely to have color-linked deafness. Many are *mostly* white - with either very small spots/patches, or ticking which can come and go. Our white girl has head patches (in the pic below) with body ticking that changes pretty seasonally.

I would say blocked salivary gland as well. One of ours had this and the whole side of her head swelled up and she ended up needing to have it lanced with a drain inserted. It *was* painful for her. If you can't get in today, use warm-hot compresses to help keep the blood flowing and move the built up fluid out. Our girl ended up healing completely with no further after effects, but it was several weeks.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HAPPY EVERYTHING DAY TO EVERYONE AT CAMP GREYHOUND !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cute picture! Did you mean to post about a problem? FWIW, lots of plates and screws have to be removed once the original injury is healed. It's quite common, for whatever reason.

Sorry we are so late to wish you a !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HAPPY BIRTHDAY KIBO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hunting with sighthounds is like falconry - the dogs are sent out, identify the prey, chase it, catch it, kill it, then wait for someone to come up and get it.

You should join the group "Greyhound Puppies" on Facebook. Breeders of both show and performance puppies post their breeding and litters there. Getting an NGA puppy is usually just luck. I would check in with you local adoption group and tell them you are looking for one because the folks who put together the hauls and getting dogs to your group will likely hear about them first.

If you do a search here on the forum you will find a LOT of threads about hookworm. Scanning through the most recent of them should get you more information that you ever wanted to know about parasites and their treatment. Just as an alternative, my vet has been trialing using the reformulated ProHeart 6 or ProHeart 12 shots to eliminate and control hookworms. My latest girl came to us with a case, too, and we treated conventionally for 5 months before getting a negative test. We did the shot after that test and she has been negative since then (4 mos). The thinking is that the issue with most oral treatments is the timing - you need to catch the hooks in the proper stage of their life for the treatment to kill them. The advantage of ProHeart is that it's a continuous treatment for 6 months (or 12 months), so there's no need to redose weekly/monthly or take the chance of missing the right timing. I have all three of my current dogs on it and we've had zero issues with side effects or unexpected problems. And no hookworms!! Whichever way you choose, it's important to get this under control as soon as possible. Hooks can destroy a dog's intestinal lining and cause issues for the dog long after the parasites are gone.

There are quite a few nsaids that you can try try, but *I* would start by asking for liquid meloxicam. The liquid form seems to be better tolerated and easier on sensitive systems, and the dosing can be very exact. The downside is it has to be syringed into their mouths which can be "fun" to accomplish. Fortunately the doses are usually small and easily swallowed if you get it back in their mouth far enough. Rachel above mentioned Galliprant which is also supposed to be better tolerated. I have not had any personal experience with it, but that does seem to be the reported case. We have always used rimadyl or meloxican. Make sure you give an anti acid like Prilosec (or generic) 20 minutes before eating, and that he eats a good amount of food prior to giving *any* nsaid. The Prilosec acts to protect the stomach from the harshness of the nsaid.

There just aren't enough emojis for how much I love this!

Has the antibiotic helped at all?? It sort of looks like he poked a stick in the end of his toe and it got infected. Toni used to do this all the time, and they were the devil to get to heal up - feet are always extra hard because they are used so much! Toni ended up having to have a toe amputated because it wouldn't get better. We treated it for months and months before hand. I'd still xray, just to make sure there's no bone involvement as sometimes infections can begin to impact the smaller toe bones very quickly. And it's possible it could be some sort of cancer. But probably just a flesh wound.

Perhaps things have changed recently, but none of my dogs with cataracts have ever had any sort of treatment. And even if they do lose their sight, either partially or completely, they get around much better than people do, with less emotional problems. Dentals need to be evaluated on an individual basis, even for seniors. Bad dental hygiene can cause other very bad physical issues including heart disease and infections in organs. If your vet has a good anesthesia protocol and monitors their dogs closely after procedures, there's no reason a *healthy* senior shouldn't have their teeth cleaned regularly. If you want a bit more confidence, seek out a good dental specialist and talk with them about your concerns beforehand.

Happy Easter from our house to you and all the Campers!

I'm very sorry....

Contact your adoption group. Get a new foster. Seriously. Not every greyhound gets along with every other every other dog, and this doesn't sound like a good fit to me. Probably because the other dog is still intact. See if you can trade for a nice sweet female, or a more laid back neutered male.