Time4ANap

We haven't fed this one but have used other Precise foods for years. Small company with good quality control. This is their weight management formula -http://precisepet.com/dog-formulas/precise/dry/weight-management/

Handsome Dude! Congratulations!

In case you haven't found reference to it on the site, one of the easy ways to catch a urine sample is to get a ladle with a long handle at the dollar store and use it to catch the urine. Not quite as easy with girls squatting as it is with boys. You can also try a low, flat Gladware type container or disposable pie pan if that fits under her backside a little better. Typically your vet will want the first urine of the day for a test.

Rocket did well on Precise Senior Food until we had to switch him to the Rx kidney diet. I think Lexie was eating this too, but if not she was eating one of the other Precise food blends. http://precisepet.com/dog-formulas/precise/dry/senior/

Panacur usually causes very few, if any issues. If there is an adverse reaction, these are the things to look out for (from the manufacturer's web page) : The active ingredient of fenbendazole is only selective to parasitic tissue, and will not harm your dog’s body tissue unless in extremely high dosages. The manufactures of Panacur state that the most common side effect of the medication is vomiting. Other formulations, such as Panacur plus, contain other medications like ivermectin which can have their own side effects. Veterinarians consider Panacur to be fairly safe and effective. However, it’s important to note that your dog may react differently. Your pet might develop adverse reactions such as an allergic reaction, and if they do then symptoms to look out for include: facial swelling itchiness hives diarrhea vomiting seizures shock pale gums cold limbs, and coma If your dog is pregnant or on any other medications, then consult your veterinarian before giving it to them. I've used it a number of times with no issues at all. Make sure your vet notes this reaction that you are seeing. Good luck. I would agree with the post above that it's probably stomach irritation from the med doing what it;s supposed to do.

I would make an appointment and have labs done to make sure everything is in check. Could be anything from stress to a UTI. Most of these hounds will not go in their crate unless they absolutely can't hold it, and unless you were gone for longer than usual, or he's stressing out at being alone, you want to rule out any other medical issue. It;s always good to get established with the vet shortly after your hound arrives and have a wellness check if you haven't done so. Good luck.

You dog will continue to show changes for a year or even a little more. Everything about this experience is new to him and he has been thrust into an entirely new living situation. You will see both big and little changes over the next year or so before he is truly "settled."

Lots of them are no longer legible as the dog gets older or depending on fur color or thickness. Sometimes you can make them out with a flashlight but not always. We have seen many wild goose chases here when trying to identify a found dog using a tattoo.

I cannot imagine the sense of loss you are feeling over the past few months. I know that I'm still lost without Rocket here, and cannot imagine triple that kind of heartbreak. There are no words that would be adequate. Lora was adorable. I'm so sorry. Run-free Lora.

What a handsome, sweet guy. I'm so sorry that he had to leave. Run-free, Joey.

I'm so sorry. He was a beautiful boy and obviously he adored his people. Run free, Finn. Let your Mom know you are okay, and have Rocket show you around up there.

He's inviting play at that point and is probably fine. My boy would do that as well and want his belly rubbed. Needless to say we were always poised to jump away just in case, and if he started to growl we needed to figure out if it was really a growl or a purr or just playing. This same boy who would sleep startle would often be sleeping on his back with his front paws wrapped around my legs while I sat in my chair and he would be sound asleep. Usually all I had to do was call his name and ask him to move if I needed to get up. They all have little quirks that you will learn and identify over time, but your husband learned the lesson about safe spaces the same way that many if us have. I stay away from the term sleep aggression simply because if there is a bite that gets reported and you use that term, it will end up in a report, and maybe in court with a dog being labeled as aggressive who doesn't have an aggressive bone in his or her body. The term aggression or aggressive may end up giving a great dog a not so great fate when what really happened was a startle. We've seen it happen before.

Reverse sneeze example: My bet is coughing from the cold air, but without seeing it, it's just a guess. See if you can grab a video in case your vet needs to see it. Also, here's a reference chart for bloat to print out. We keep ours on the refrigerator. Be sure to write the numbers for your vet and your Emergency Vet at the top. http://www.bmd.org/bmdcr/bloat_chart.pdf

It does not sound like sleep aggression, it sounds like sleep startle. Don't confuse the two terms. Your dog is not being aggressive, he is simply not used to being touched or approached when sleeping. I spent the last ten years with a hound who was subject to sleep startle sleeping next to my side of the bed. I never got out of bed with saying something to him to let him know I was there. Usually saying "hey (insert name)" or "hey buddy" was enough to let him know I was there. We went through several bites as a result of startle, each one of them the human's fault. Also, touching the hound while on his bed or laying down is off limits for everyone. That's his space and his alone. Even if his eyes are open, he can still be sound asleep.

When you try leaving her out with a muzzle, also be sure to leave her crate door open so she can go in there if she wants to. When we first got Rocket he did not like being left in the crate when we left the house. Once we let him have the run of the house, he still liked to go in and out of the crate as he pleased, especially if the sunbeams were hitting it. The picture in my signature was actually taken while he was sunbathing inside the crate.

You will find few, if any, dog park fans here, mostly because of things you are already seeing or thinking. The prey drive is part of a natural drive that every dog has regardless of breed, but your dog will be quick to be labeled "vicious" if there's an incident due to their size and tendency to play rough. Find a friend with a big fenced yard or contact your group to see if there are scheduled greyhound walks or play events instead. Good luck.

Teach him the Wait command as part of the training. He may even know it if he came from the track, as many of the already seem to know what WAIT means from getting in and out of the crates at the track.

I'm very sorry for your loss. Run-free, Bear.

We tried a ramp when Rocket started having trouble getting in and out of the cars. Unfortunately, he wanted nothing to do with a ramp, and once he realized that we were trying to train him to use one, he did everything in his power to avoid going anywhere near the ramp. I ended up returning it. This is the one I tried https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GIPWMM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I chose this ramp based on reviews of it being solid and having good grip. The van I was trying to get Rocket into had an interior floor height of 24 inches from the ground, so the ramp would have been at a steeper angle and this one worked nicely for that application. Rocket just wanted nothing to do with it.

Sometimes (doesn't work every time) to get them out of the statue if you start to turn and walk the other way, as soon as they move to follow you, do another 180 in the direction you originally intended. Works often but not every time. Other times I have actually put slack on the leash and let them sniff around for a minute or two, then just start walking. If distracted enough from sniffing they will follow.

https://abc7chicago.com/pets-animals/dog-food-recalled-for-elevated-vitamin-d/4796740/ Multiple labels and types. Info at link above.

What a handsome boy!

Boredom is a big factor for a young dog. Not so much as they get older, but right now he is looking for ways to disperse energy and is curious about everything. Try some clicker training (bonus - he gets a treat when following commands) and maybe try some of the puzzles or toys that dispense a treat but they also make him work for it. The more occupied he is, the more settles he will become. Several 15 minute walks are good, but you might also try one longer walk as well if you are up for it. Tire him out. You should be able to find references to clicker training and dog puzzles using the search feature here on the site and on a google search.

4.5 cups a day sounds like a lot of food, but it does depend on the dog, the brand and type of food, total calories etc. Most larger greyhounds (big boys) eat somewhere between 3 and 4 cups total per day, with smaller dogs eating a little less. Check the package to see what their suggested amount is for your dog's weight. Remember, it's only a guideline. Your dog may just be highly food motivated, or there could also be some underlying issue. Assuming his vet check was normal and there are no known problems, you might ask the vet's advice at your next appointment if it continues. Also, many dogs off of the tracks now do test positive for worms or parasites of some kind. Be sure that he was dewormed by the adoption group, and if the hunger continues, maybe take a stool sample or two at random to your vet to re-check. A negative fecal check only means it was negative that time. It sometimes takes a couple of tests to be sure the he is clear of worms. I have seen a dog with worms be ravenous like that, but usually there will also be some other sign like loose poop or some bloody poop or diarrhea, so keep a check just to be sure. It's all new to him, but you need to reinforce that counter surfing is not allowed with training. Over time he should figure out that there's no magic food dispenser.

Any type of bone that is cooked or smoked is not safe. They can splinter under the pressure of the jaw and you end up with an ingested bone splinter that can cause damage inside the dog, or the dog could also choke on it. Raw bones (if any) are best, however you will find people who have had dogs crack teeth on raw bones as well who will tell you that bones are bad as well. Any chew type treat or bone should only be given when the dog is continuously supervised. They are not a treat that that should be left for the dog when you leave. We also always pick up the last of a bully stick or put it away if it's not finished. Some people prefer to give chicken necks or turkey necks as a chew / treat and count it as part of the dog's daily food so that over feeding doesn't occur. Again, these should be raw, Some dogs like them, some don't. Dogs with sensitive tummies may not be able to tolerate them as well. Rocket always preferred bully sticks, but as he aged he became less interested in chewing them than hoarding them. He got to a point where he would chew it for a few minutes and then hide it for later, but never went looking for it again. If you watch Amazon and the Best Bully Sticks websites, you can get pretty good deals on that company's products. I usually buy the Supreme Bully Sticks on Amazon Prime Deals. I don't know a dog who will eat a whole uncooked carrot. Some of them like the little baby carrots as snacks/treats, but I don't know of any reason that it would be good to give a dog a whole carrot. Will let others weigh in on this as I've never even heard the question before. If you have read about Olewo Carrots, those are a supplement to food. They are dehydrated and reconstituted with water. You will not get the same effect by giving your dog a whole carrot. Best of luck with your new hound! The first year is the most fun as you watch them discover lots of new things.