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greysmom

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Everything posted by greysmom

  1. It depends a lot on the dog, obviously, but generally the first two weeks are the worst. After that things will really be mostly "normal." We actually paid for several extra hospital days (our boy was very comfortable there and well cared for) until he was able to get up and around on his own. That way, the staff and techs could professionally help and watch him, and we were sure he was able to potty and eating well. He was there about 4 days post surgery. We had a Ruffwear Webmaster Harness for him to wear and it worked perfectly. https://ruffwear.com/products/web-master-harness He ended back in the hospital a week or so later with an infection at his incision, but that's really common, and there's some evidence to suggest that a post-surgery infection increases the overall length of survivability for them. Back leg amps have it a bit easier than front leg amps. Greyhounds carry most of their bodyweight over their front half, so it takes more energy for front leg amps to move around. But back leg amps get up and going fairly easily. Our boy was running (actually running) around within a few days of coming home. And despite my heart being in my throat every time, he eventually taught himself to go up and down the stairs too. He was basically the same dog he was before, just with three legs. Make sure you take a week or so off to be with him, or have someone come and sit with your dog if you need to work those first two weeks. They need medications on a strict schedule, and often can be restless or have trouble settling due to pain (phanotm and real). You should set up a contained space someplace in your house that's easy for the dog to get outside, and for someone to monitor them. We did end up sleeping downstairs in shifts with our boy for a while. You should talk with your oncologist to see if your dog is eligible for any of the various cancer vaccine trials. Also contact the Greyhound Health Initiative regarding getting free chemo treatments. https://www.greyhoundhealthinitiative.org/ There is also a TON of information and support here at Tripawds.com. And there are many many links to info in the first post of the current Osteo Thread here on GT linked above. You can post questions or concerns there and those of us who have gone through this will be able to help. https://tripawds.com/ Good Luck and keep us informed.
  2. It could be either, or something else entirely like a prostate issue or kidney (as opposed to urinary tract) infection. So, vet appt, one way or another.
  3. Yes. As long as he's out of the cast and fully healed, he needs to get more exercise - a good long walk in the morning and the evening, or a good play session if you have a yard. A flirt or lure pole (ise Mr Google) is a great way to get them tired if you have the room for it. Many greyhounds will *chase* a ball, even if they won't bring it back once it stops moving And some people I know have used drones or RC cars to get their dogs moving. It's going to be hard, but you need to ignore him when he wakes up at night. If he's up and panting and pacing he may be cold, or he may need a little snack right before bedtime to settle his stomach, particularly if his panting/pacing is early in the morning. Some greyhounds get a build up of acid, just like some people, and need a little more to ease the cramping and burning that comes along with it. You can also try an acid reducer like Pepcid (or generics). Make sure he's hookworm negative for THREE negative fecals, not just one. Otherwise, he may still be experiencing symptoms of infestation. If you're keeping your house cooler due to summer temps he may need a blanket or jimjams so he stays warm on his bed. Good luck and congratulations!!
  4. Each dog is different. Start by feeding the same food and the same amount the dog (he or she) is getting in the kennel or their foster home, and adjust from there. If you're giving more than a handful of small (1/4 inch) treats a day, you *may* need to reduce the amount of his/her meals. Just be aware the s/He may not be very into food or treats for the first several weeks in your home. You may also find training counterproductive during that time frame. Once s/he is comfortable and settled, and eating well, you can begin to ramp up the training.
  5. I'd go with chronic dislocation too. The longer the toe stays out of joint the farther the ligament stretches, causing the toe to be constantly "loose" and more prone to dislocate. Eventually the ligament is so stretched the toe can't stay in the joint properly, and it just sort of flaps around. At that point, you may be looking at an amputation if the toe is bothering him. If it's not bothering him, you can just watch it closely, especially when he's playing hard.
  6. I would get to the vet sooner rather than later. It could be nothing but some arthritic changes, or it could be osteo as the wrist is a prime location, or it could be a joint infection, or any number of things that would benefit from medical intervention as soon as possible. Don't take his non-reaction as any indication of seriousness as these guys can be *extremely* stoic - particularly when they get their adrenaline up when playing or running. (One of mine completely shattered a toe when playing in the yard and never made a sound. I only realized what happened when I saw the bloody, mangled thing after we'd come in the house afterward.)
  7. It may grow back, or it may not. It may take some time for it, if it's going to. Some people swear by melatonin to regrow butt fur. It's never worked for me though. You can also try adding in salmon or other omega 3 oil to her diet.
  8. At her age and with her issues, it could be either, but I would definitely ask her vet about canine dementia/ canine cognitive disfunction. There is a drug they can take if it is that, and sometimes an anti anxiety drug can help. If it's behavioral you can check out the above suggestions. Also try feeding her a snack at bedtime - either part of or in addition to her regular meals. With her copper syndrome you should consult the vet about that as well. Sometimes a karge treat, like a big milkbone, works too. Has anything else changed in her life recently such as moving furniture, losing a companion or friend (human or canine)?? Any changes at all. Sometimes some dogs just don't handle the dtress of change well and it impacts their behavior.
  9. Make sure you're not conflating "space aggression" with "sleep startle." They are two separate issues. When he's just barking at you "for no reason" it's probably because he's been startled. There is always a reason. It's just that humans are not very observant! A kennel in the kitchen should be fine, as long as you make time to be with him and interact. Definitely use it for when people come over, and definitely give him some time outs there where he can just sleep in peace. But you also can be doing things while he's in the living room on his bed. I hear you about having a small space - there's no way we could put a crate in our living room either. So you need to make the best of what you have. Consider if you can move things around a bit and get him out of the traffic pattern when laying on his bed. Then, like Rocket's Dad said, you just get used to announcing yourself to your dog whenever you come within about 3 feet! Say his name, clap your hands or snap your fingers - just make sure he's awake. If you want to try an intermediate solution, an xpen set up around his bed can help everyone feel more secure. They come in very short heigthths and you can take the panels apart to fit if needed. Also, keep a bowl of small treats close by so that you can toss him a treat whenever you walk by him or sit on the couch. You want him to associate being on his bed with people close by with getting a really nice treat. You can search here in the forum for space aggression and sleep startle for more solutions and tips.
  10. The biggest issue with a home cooked diet is how to make sure your dog is getting all the correct trace elements that are usually added to commercial dog foods. There are many additives and supplements, and you should be consulting with your vet and/or a canine nutritionist to make sure your boy is properly fed. We had a member here recently who had fed her dog "home cooked" food for, literally, years, in an effort to stay away from commercial dog foods (which she didn't trust). She ended up destroying her dog's digestive tract and making her dog very sick, leading to her death. It was a cautionary take for all of us. A few days or weeks or even months of chicken and rice (or any bland diet formulation) isn't going to irreparably harm your dog, but it's something to consider for the long term. If all you're looking to do is make some add-in stew for kibble, or give your dog some people food as a treat, there shouldn't be any issues going forward. I often make up a crock pot of veggie ends and trimmings, oatmeal that won't make a full serving, rice or pasta, whatever I have left over to go in. The dogs love it on top of kibble.
  11. I would not start messing around with adding other things in to his diet while doing a food trial. If you have a reliable opinion that his issues are food related rather than from some other source, stick with testing that theory. Once he is able to eat and gain nutrition from his food you can better see how his digestive tract is operating.
  12. There are ways to go through a food sensitivity trial without buying commercial dog food. You just have to be disciplined in cooking and feeding. All you *need* to do is find what he reacts to, then you can switch off to an appropriate commercial diet. The most common allergies/sensitivities are to corn and chicken, so that's where you begin. Choose a neutral carb source like rice or pasta, peeled white potatoes, sweet potatoes, even bland beans like adzuki beans or chick peas can be used as a food carb (they are all used in commercial food diets as well). You can prep and freeze large quantities to make it easier throughout the work week. Same with the protein source - choose something other than chicken. Turkey is what eventually worked for Lilly, longterm, but she also tolerates pork and beef. Lots of people have success using mild white fish like Tilapia that isn't too expensive to buy or difficult to cook. Lilly also likes canned solid albacore tuna and usually has a snack of a can every day. I used ground amounts of the meat I chose, and again, prepped a bunch on Sunday. Veggies can be good if he will eat them as they add vitamins and minerals. Though for the short term most dogs will do OK with a very limited diet. You can also just dump everything in a crock pot (carb source, protein source, any veggies, water), and cook it overnight into a mushy stew. Portion out meals and freeze. You need to feed your selections for about 4-6 weeks (unless you see a bad reaction sooner) before movingon the the next combination. Once you find out what he's reacting to you can then work on finding a commercial food he likes and will eat. Then you watch the ingredients like a hawk for any changes. I've had to switch commercial foods twice now when the companies changed formulas to add in something she can't have. It's a PITA to get through but you will see a difference when he's getting nutrition fro
  13. Everything you have written is logical and clear. Your desire to do right by your boy is obvious. I would urge you to reread your legally signed adoption contract as it may state explicitly that your dog must be returned to it's original adoption group, if possible, if a return is needed. If they have been supportive with their time and suggestions then there shouldn't be an issue with returning the dog to their care, as they will already have a complete picture of what his new home should be like (and they probably already have an inkling that this is coming). They will also likely have contacts among previous adoptors who have the necessary experience to deal with his issues. Please be very, very careful if you utilize public options like CraigsList or PetFinder. There are some very unscrupulous people out there. It's a hard situation no matter how you do it. Thank you for keeping Tito's best future in mind. Good luck.
  14. Yes. Keep a close watch on his weight and energy levels. It's only chemical food, really, so it's not unusual that he doesn't have any poop! Also, FWIW, my chicken sensitive dog could never tolerate this food. She is *ultra* sensitive and cannot have any chicken protein whatsoever - even when they say "hydrolyzed" or "mixed tocopherols" that are supposed to remove the offending protein chain in the food. One of the prescription diets is made entirely from processed feathers, and she can't tolerate that either. We can only keep her under control by eliminating every hint of chicken from her diet, which is surprizingly difficult to do when you consider treats too.
  15. Whatever they wll eat enough of to get their pain meds down - canned food, baby food, oatmeal or cornmeal, pasta. Then they should gradually get back to normal foods, unless there are stitches or craters - then no kibble or anything that might get stuck in a hole until they are healed. Soak the kibble, overcook the rice/pasta, etc., etc., etc.,.
  16. We used powdered yucca during post-chemo treatment for Dude and it seemed to work well for him (this was 2011). You might check into tumeric if you want a natural antiinflammatory, depending on what else he is taking.
  17. Put down a long runner that covers up the open backs and makes them less slippery. Indoor outdoor carpet or grass you can get at home stores by the yard works great.
  18. Many dogs need less food as they age. All this could also be stress colitis too. And just IMO, you may want to experiment with just not doing anything. He doesn't feel bad, he's not in pain, there's no parasites present, his poop is formed but soft - it might just need some time and watching to see if this is a new normal for him. Intestinal changes are normal in older dogs. It would also be normal to see about adding in a good amount of fiber - just like an older person needs more fiber - oat bran or beet pulp or even regular metamucil tablets. Add it into his diet slowly. IF he's having full on diarrhea, or his poops deteriorate, then would be the time for a records review from a specialist to see what they say.
  19. Your feeling is correct. A food sensitivity is always there, so unless you are feeding him different foods morning and evening, I doubt that's what it is. Has he been on a probiotic like Forti Flora during treatment? Sometimes the gut flora get out of balance and need a reboot, just like with people. The other question is what is his exercise like? Sometimes mine will have looser stools after particularly vigorous play. Not to be too delicate about it, but it's like the poop gets pounded around in the chute, so to speak. We actually are going through a similar thing here following treatment for coccydia. We just got through 14 days of metronidazole to try and sooth and restart my guy's intestines. So far so good. You can also use a longer course of Tylan Powder. Both are very mild antibiotics and good for the system as long as you add in a probiotic at the same time.
  20. Jen, we have a Wobbler and a snuffle mat - he wasn't overly interested in either, being not really a food hound. He likes treats, but he's not a fanatic about food. Though I will think about how to use them more with his regular meals. XTRAWLD, if he was still at the farm he'd be running around playing all day wth his littermates, so I'm not overly worried about a few hours of day care a week, but I'll watch him for any physical effects. For starting out the runt of the litter he's caught up now! He has HUGE feet! And he weighs about 45 lbs now, double what he was three months ago, and about the same as Lilly weighed at the same age (she weighs 90 lbs now! )!
  21. Jan, he's not really hyper, just a puppy, like Batmom said! A very very active puppy! We had two great Dane puppies at the same time in 1993, and Lilly seven years ago, and all three of them together wouldn't have been as active as Atom! He broke one of his back toes just days after we brought him home. There was no keeping him quiet or restricting his activity. We did keep him on leash outside, but he was a maniac inside the house (which is only about 900 sq feet anyway!) the entire four weeks he was in a splint. I could totally see him saving up some ya-yas from that! We call it getting the yips out! ETA - Come to find out, there's a good day care about 5 minutes from our house, so as soon as he has his rabies shot next month, he's off to play his little legs off! We just have to survive until then!! Also looking into classes for him!
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