greysmom

I would still definitely do the abdominal ultrasound, as well. It's quick and easy, no sedation, and can tell you a lot about what's going on in a complicated area of the body. You might also have them do her heart at the same time, just to cross that off the list of possibles. Have them read by a professional radiologist, not just your vet. Vets know a lot, but they can't know everything about every specialty. If she doesn't have a bacterial overgrowth (SIBO) or some other reason for the metro, it just might not be needed. It's also a kind of "standard" first line treatment for any unknown digestive issue. But it doesn't always help and can sometimes be counterproductive. She also might do better with several small meals a day rather than two larger feedings. Or she might do better with only one meal a day. It's "keeping something always on her stomach" vs "letting her system rest in between meals." Regarding allergies/intolerances - remember to check all treats for offending foods too. Sox

A lot depends on what kind of vehicle you want. Some are vehemently opposed to minivans, while others wouldn't want an SUV. Then there's the issue of what kind of powertrain - gas, electric, hybrid. Four wheel drive or all wheel drive?? What kind of money are you looking to spend?? How are you planning on securing your dogs - will they be loose in the back, in crates for safety? I've had Great Danes in a Jeep Cherokee. My greyhounds have been in Priuses and now a RAV4, though I really wanted a Highlander or a 4Runner. Or maybe there's a different brand suits you better. It's all in what you want to pay for right now.

Generally, a probiotic needs to be given every day to be effective, not just on an as-needed basis. It keeps the gut bacteria in balance and working properly. It's odd that you're also giving metronidazole at the same time as that is an antibiotic which is toxic to microorganisms. So those two things are actually working against each other. Have you changed her food at all?? Or noticed her same food smelling differently or looking differently??? Often, companies will change the recipe or the sourcing for ingredients without having to mention it to anyone, and it will cause issues. Has your vet suggested doing a food trial to see if she has any allergies or intolerances?? The classic thing to do when diarrhea starts is to immediately fast the dog until the diarrhea stops, then one meal time more. Make sure there's plenty of clean water available so she doesn't get dehydrated. Once the diarrhea has stopped, restart her feeding using a bland diet - low fat protein (different from what's in her regular food) and a bland carb source, also different from her usual food. Lots of people use rice, but you can use pasta or oatmeal or anything she will eat. Start with a small amount - like a 1/4 cup - once an hour. If she eats it and the diarrhea doesn't start back up, keep up that schedule for another day, gradually increasing the amount. If the diarrhea does start again, go back to fasting, and try changing the protein source for the next round. As Irene said above, a Rx diet or one made to help gut health can also be helpful. But one way or another, it's best to get to the bottom of the problem as soon as possible. If she's having diarrhea that often she's going to lose weight very quickly since she's not getting much nutrition from her food. If your vet is running out of options it might be best to consult a vet who specializes in gastroenterology.

Just like people, every dog's system is different and reacts differently to foods and additives. It's great that you've found a product that works well for Stanley! Just FYI for anyone reading up about this problem: Whenever there is a persistent issue - like soft stools - it's always best to investigate if the cause could be something medical first. Soft stools can have many many causes from easily solved (parasites) to something that needs medical intervention. An easy and quick ultrasound of the abdomen can rule out a lot of more serious issues (tumors, IBD, blockages) right off. Heart issues (DCM) can manifest as persistent soft stools as well. Food allergies and intolerances should also be explored. Once all of the medical issues have been eliminated, you can move on to food supplements. Some dogs might just need a probiotic added to their meals. Racing kennels often use buttermilk or kefir in their dogs' food. Full fat, plain yogurt can also be used. Or there are numerous commercial products out there like Forti Flora. Some dogs can do well just adding higher fiber veggies like green beans, cooked carrots, or plain pumpkin to their food. Some need actual insoluble fiber added in varying amounts. Anything from oatmeal to the Olewo products to actual plain Metamucil (check for fake sugars). You can also buy both dehydrated carrots and dehydrated beet pulp in bulk at feed stores since they are both used in horse/cow feeds for the same purpose. And plain Metamucil might be cheaper than a product marketed for pets. One of my girls was having a similar problem since she was a puppy. Adding veggies and natural products didn't help, so we moved on to a trial of Olewo carrots. Adding them on both her meals was too much for her - it made her soft stools worse - and we tried a couple different schedules and amounts before settling on 1 tablespoon of carrots, rehydrated in water, on her evening meal. She has perfect poops now, two or three times a day.

{{{HUGS}}}

{{{HUGS}}} and Also, when you can think about it, opinions about her gene therapy treatment?? There's a foster dog in our group using targeted gene therapy instead of standard chemo.

Poor Buddy!!! Getting old sucks, baby!!!

Hope she's feeling better now. Even if your dog has had no difficulties with anesthesia, each time is different and scary. Last fall Andi was undergoing a procedure involved with her broken leg that she's had done at least twice before. This time, she reacted and went into cardiac arrest in the space of a minute!! Fortunately, the staff were right there and got everything under control, and she was right as rain within a half hour - and I didn't know anything about it until it was over!! - so you just never know!!

Not sure if you're connected with a group or vet yet, but mine always will take donations. Coats, collars, muzzles, blankets, old (good) beds, food even common medications like thyroid/synthroid all go to our adoption group for use with fosters. My vet also takes certain supplements and meds though they are much more limited in what they can take in/dispense for their low income clients. {{{hugs}}} I know it can be difficult going through boxes of dog stuff. I still have all of Andi's coursing gear just because I can't quite bear to get rid of it yet, even though she's never going to race again and we're not going to have another dog who can use it.

So... Good news, bad news situation, but not horrible news. Sometimes that's the best we can get.

My experience with PLE was not as happy as yours. Our girl was never able to get it under control, and she passed within a couple months. I hope your Bolt is luckier. There is a GT member who kept her dog alive and happy for a couple years post-diagnosis, so I hope she sees this and can offer her advice. That being said, a couple things don't add up for me in your narrative, and it could be that you left parts out to not make it so long. If so, my apologies. As far as I know, the only way to definitively diagnose PLE is through a biopsy of a sample of the intestinal wall. PLE is not in itself a separate disease, but a result of another primary disease causing protein-carrying fluid to leak through/from the lymphatic system into available cavities in the body. Bloodwork and ultrasound can point towards PLE, but to find the underlying cause requires more invasive techniques. Simply having no appetite and losing weight could have many, many causes and to jump right to PLE seems extreme. Fluid build up and swelling in the abdominal cavity and legs, bloody diarrhea, vomiting, increased heart rate and difficulty breathing from fluid build up in the chest cavity, and yes - thickening of the intestinal walls can all indicate PLE. In the absence of any of these other symptoms, I would have doubts about him having PLE without a biopsy. Steroids can and do increase appetite and can cause the severe loss of muscle mass. The longer he's on the Pred, the worse it will get. And unfortunately, most dogs on high doses of pred don't ever gain that muscle loss back, and many go back off their food without the drug driving their appetite. But taking him off may cause the original issues to resurface. It all depends on what the underlying cause of his inappetence and weight loss was. If the medical intervention took care of the underlying problem he might be good for now, or relapse down the road, or never have it happen again. Often an immunosuppressant drug will help ameliorate the underlying problem and keep it a bay longer. Hopefully this time on a prescription diet with drug support has straightened out whatever was wrong with Bolt's system, and he can go back to being a happy companion for you again!!

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There *will* be whining. Just expect it. Any new dog in a new situation in a new home with new people is going to whine. There is no way around it. The good news is the behavior should extinguish itself in time. Dogs are quite capable of learning the difference between day and night - on the couch during the day, off the couch (and in the crate) at night. We teach all our dogs commands for moving them around right from the start. "Off" means off the whatever-they're-sitting-on. "On your bed" means just that. "Scoot" means scoot over and give me some room on the d@mn couch! "Kennel up" (your dog may know this one already) means go in your kennel and settle down. Just decide on a command name and say it every time you ask them to do the maneuver. Remember to praise and treat when when they do it right. Patience and consistency are key.

It's pretty common for them to become more protective, especially if they experience even a minor slip or trip. Is he currently on a pain regimen?? Most do well on a combo of a tolerated nsaid, a true pain reliever such as codeine sulfate, and gabapentin which is a multiuse drug for nerve pain and anxiety. You might talk with your vet about upping or adding the gabapentin. Or adding in another actual anti anxiety drug. Some people have also used Amitriptyline, which is an anti depressant, but it increases seratonin production and helps other drugs act more effectively. It can also act as a pain reliever instead of an opioid. It's especially useful for nerve pain.

I think the ultimate answer to your question is that dogs sometimes do things we wish they wouldn't! Ideally, you would have stopped him before he could get the treats. A sharp "No!" or other vocalization, or even a handclap to break his concentration would interrupt his focus and allow you to move either him or the treats. Training a "leave it" would also be effective in this and many other situations. Understanding his motivation and capabilities helps keep you thinking ahead. You'll be fine!

Personally, I usually stop most vaccines for my seniors, or at least discuss each one with my vet. It's got to be a risk-vs-reward kind of discussion. Usually no rabies as our exposure level is very low. Same for lepto and lyme here - our dogs usually aren't out of our yard - so kennel cough isn't a priority either. They don't come into contact with other dogs at events or play dates or through the fence. I'm not anti vaccines and would give them if there's a reason too - going on vacation to a higher risk location, for instance. Bloodwork every year is a must for seniors. Maybe every 6 months if warranted. And a thorough physical exam to assess any pain. I'd also discuss if there was anything else I could be doing that was low impact to alleviate any pain noticed. As far as the dental goes, it just depends. Dr Couto always maintains that age is just a number for a healthy dog at any age, and any anesthesia risk needs to be determined by how much his health will be adversely affected by NOT having a good dental - increased risk of heart issues from infections, inability to eat well, general tooth health, etc. My vet will do herself, or have a tech do, a sort of awake scraping session just in the exam room - just taking a scaler over the teeth she can easily reach and getting off as much as she can. It's not as effective as she can't get really into cleaning under the gums, and no extractions, of course, but it may be enough to keep this on the right side of the scale (ha!) for a senior. Good luck and congratulations to your 13 year old!!

Some dogs are easy. Some dogs aren't. It's been shown that dogs in general have the mental capacity - language understanding, intelligence, emotional capabilities - of about a 3 year old human toddler, so if you wouldn't hit a toddler for punishment, you shouldn't hit a dog. Number one - you have a smart, food motivated, confident dog who will pick up on the training mentioned above quickly with consistency and patience on your part. "Leave it" and "drop it" are especially useful. There are excellent Positive Reinforcement Only training videos for both on YouTube. Number two - the best way to avoid unsafe situations such as counter surfing, is to not allow them to happen in the first place. I had a greyhound once who stole an entire package of dinner rolls out of a shopping bag I left on the floor as I was bringing in the rest of the bags. By the time I noticed it, all that was left - fortunately - was the plastic bag. He didn't eat the plastic bag and we only had a couple days of bad poops from all the bread. And again fortunately, it wasn't the chocolate candy or box of artificial sweetener packets that had been sitting beside the rolls in the bag. So lesson learned - don't leave anything tempting within reach. Our treats are all stored in conveniently located, securely closed cabinets, never just out on the counter. Food is in a closed container too high for them to reach. People food is never left at a level that would tempt them to try and snatch it. Dog proof your home as you would baby proof it. And never, never hit your dog. It doesn't train them to do anything but be afraid of you.

This recall has now been expanded. Please recheck any updates.

You're from another country so take what we're going to advise and see what is in your country. Generally, greyhounds are easy keepers and do well under a variety of feeding systems. What you're aiming for is keeping him at a good weight - not too fat and not too skinny! You should be able to easily see his correct physical outline from the side, and maybe a rib or two, a defined waist when viewed from above, and a nice tight tuck up. The other component to feeding is enough energy for his activity level. A dog hiking or jogging every day is going to need more food than one hanging out on the couch with some yard turnouts. So that's the goal - a stable weight with good energy. The final thing is good "output" from his digestive system. Too much of any one thing - protein, fat, carbs - can throw the balance off and create runny stools or even medical conditions like pancreatitis. A dog should have well-formed poops that can be easily picked up/cleaned up. Not *too* hard because that can mean pain when they go, but not so soft it doesn't clean out their scent glands! Most of us do feed kibble as the main component of meals. This should be a kibble with about 20% protein, contain a whole grain for heart health, a good protein source, and various vitamins and minerals to make it a "complete" food. Usually fed with water to help them eat it easier. Some add in a spoon or so of commercial canned dog food, or a homemade stew of some kind, to make it more palatable. Many add "toppings" such as you have been doing to add calories and help them be more eager to eat. It's also fine to add a portion of a raw diet, if that is of interest to you. It's advisable to add a good probiotic of some kind to help their gut stay in balance. That can be a commercial product like Forti Flora, other commercially available products, or natural ones like yogurt or buttermilk. I have one dog that also needs to have fiber added to her food to maintain all of the above. We use a product called Olewo Dehydrated Carrots, but you can also use portions of regular vegetables (green beans are common), or other fiber additives (without fake sugars). That's a lot of information, but it really just means you need to find what works for your dog. You can search through this section of the forum to read about what works and what doesn't. Just keep the goals in mind - good weight, good energy, good poops!!

At least you have one that works. I have two sitting up in an unused room with burned-out motors. I've descended to sweeping with a broom and an old-fashioned carpet sweeper. There *is* a point at which your Dyson will lose suction!!!

Welcome to the life of a greyhound puppy owner!!! There's a good reason they're called Land Sharks (all teeth, never still!!), and that their so cute (so you don't kill them d-e-d in the first month!!! Number one - more exercise. Like, a LOT!!!! Long, long walks (with training), even jogging, hiking, long play sessions, doggy day care, swimming classes. And when she's not actually doing something physical, have her doing something mental - training, brain games, puzzle food games. At this point, if she was on a racing greyhound farm, she would be in a loooong skinny pen/kennel with her sisters, given free range to run and play and eat and nap and act like a hooligan all day long. At 14 months old, she would be getting ready to head to finishing school to begin her formal race training. So besides being very smart, she's coming into the height of her physical growth, which will continue for the next 18-24 months. Number two - look into Nothing In Life Is Free training (NILIF). Basically, she has to pay for everything she wants with a behavior - meals, treats, play, going out the door, getting a toy - ANYthing she thinks has value she has to sit/down/touch (whatever she'll do) before she gets it. It helps reinforce that she gets everything from you, and that she's lower in the order than you. You should also look into getting her some formal training in an obedience class. And also look into the various AKC competitions in your area - lure coursing, LGRA, agility, barn hunt, even dock diving! Anything to put all that energy to use in a fun way for both of you. Good luck!!

Excellent!! I'm also very glad to read all the humans in the house are in the same oage and will be involved in helping your dogs settle in together. If he's just being a big goofball that makes it easier to put your girl forward for a while. "Dominance theory" of dog training is mostly BS, but you can show him that she needs to be respected too. In time, it may be that he becomes the dominant dog in the house, but *she* gets to decide that (along with you), not him, at this point. Also look into Nothing In Life Is Free (NILIF Training) training, to help reinforce things in his brain. Good luck and let us know how things are going.

I'll echo what's said above. This isn't anywhere near being true aggression, which is very rare. You don't say how long the two of them have been together, but it's probably likely that they are getting so comfortable with one another that they feel safe expressing their likes and dislikes more forcefully. In both cases, one or the other didn't feel like sharing and expressed that. Communication, not aggression. Where I'll disagree with Racingdog is the need to step in. This is normal behavior, yes, and very, very common, but it can also be distressing for us humans. It can also become expensive to keep running one or the other to the vet for staples or stitches. Number one, muzzle them both whenever you need to leave them unsupervised, particularly if they are left to free roam in the house (if they are crated or separately confined otherwise you don't need this). This behavior *is* normal, but it can also quickly escalate past that point. Number two, monitor their interactions more closely for a while and step in before your boy feels the need to communicate with his teeth. Your girl is older and she was there first. She should be higher than the male in seniority. You need to be her protector and her advocate, and reinforce her place in the pecking order of your house. Don't let him pester her, or try to dog-bully her out of a choice spot in the sunbeam. Distract him with a treat and lure him to another spot. We also teach our dogs commands so we can move them around easier - "scoot" and "off" and "on your bed" help manage positioning with less stress. UNLESS - *you* decide that your boy needs to be top dog in the house. Then reverse all that!! Space issues can be one of those picky things for humans to manage, but they and you will eventually figure it out and things will calm down. Be calm and patient and consistent with enforcing the rules and they'll learn quickly. Good luck. PS - just saw your reply - 7 months is about right for them to feel like going to the next level in expressing their wants and needs. Everything else applies. It's even more important you reinforce your girl if she's not able to stand up for herself, and your boy is much more confident. She probably doesn't *want* to be top dog, but she shouldn't have to put up with being bullied either. If you decide the make is the more natural leader, then make sure your girl gets equal attention. Use the leg of an old stretchy tube sock like a snood to keep her ear from flapping around and reopening the wounds. There are also commercial products you can purchase that do the same thing.

Check for a UTI. Is she getting cold? Are her pain meds running out during the night? Is she having trouble changing positions? - this happened to us a lot. Dude would want to switch around then would have to work too hard getting up and moving which would wake him up too much, meaning he had to then pee.