greysmom

Hound 1 is the odd girl out and outnumbered by the siblings. It's an uncomfortable and anxiety-inducing feeling in a dog who's always been in charge, so she's reacting by trying to solidify her position in the most aggressive way she can to try and stop one of the other two - the large male - from taking her position from her. Additionally, by bringing your numbers to three, you now have a "pack" of dogs which can sometimes change the dynamics in a home drastically. First thing - YOU decide who is going to be the leader of your little pack. I'm assuming girl #1, but you may decide the #3 is assuming the role. Dogs are most comfortable when positions are well defined, and they will make up their own if left to their own devices. If you don't, there will be continued jostling for position until they work it out on their own, and it can sometimes get ugly and dangerous. Use their muzzles (on everyone) until you feel you can trust them after an honest and objective assessment of their behavior down the road when things have stabilized. It can take several months for the new dynamics to solidify so don't give up on monitoring and reinforcing too soon. DO NOT leave them unsupervised without crating or muzzling at this point. Reinforce who you decide will be the leader by using some easy behavioral cues - they sound like a lot of hooey, but our definition of what is appropriate is different from theirs. The leader gets everything first - food (separate them and put the leader's food down first, but do not allow the leader to get at the other's bowls when they are finished), treats (give to the leader first), toys (put them away and only give them to isolated dogs one at a time for now), the leader gets to be in front on walks, gets attention from the humans by themself and special attention with solo rides/brushing/yard time basically anything that's considered special in your house. The leader of the "dog pack" needs to understand that YOU are the leader of the "house pack" so continue to set proper boundaries for rules and schedules and the dispensing of food. If the leader starts getting too pushy with people, revert back to NILIF training to make sure they understand who is responsible for leading the house. Having multiple dogs can be really fun, and most of us who own greyhounds end up having packs of them (of varying sizes). It's important to remember that it's up to US to set the rules and maintain order.

All of this is awesome news. Congratulations to you and Willa!!!

I would get them in to see someone as soon as you can. If this had been going on for a day or less, you could try and wait it out a little longer, but this has been several days now of liquid diarrhea and I would be *very* concerned about them getting dehydrated and the effect of long-term gastric upset on their systems. Remember to take in a sample of each girl's "production" when you go.

As far as answering your original question, it sounds like you're keeping track of most of the main clues for pain - increased panting, stiffness, lameness, reluctance to move around/get up. I would also include a reluctance to do normal daily activities likes walks, and somewhat compulsive licking of a possibly affected area. In Buddy's case, that could be his hind feet or legs, or even biting his thighs (like going after a flea?). Nerve issues make the affected limbs tingle - like they're going to sleep - and it can be irritating and cause them to lick at the same spot to ease the pain/tingling. Both Librela and Adequan are mainly used for arthritis - working in two different modalities. Adequan is a sort of glucosamine and Librela a monoclonal antibody. It sounds like, at the moment, he's only getting Librela and a glucosamine supplement, so there are lots of ways you can go to help him out medicinally. 1) Adding in an NSAID. Couple thoughts - most nsaids are hard on the stomach - for dogs and for people - so it's important that it's ONLY taken after a full meal or a significant snack to negate some of those effects. Meloxicam is usually well tolerated, but it depends on the individual. It also comes in a liquid form that can be squirted in the mouth or over food that is much easier on the digestive system. Galliprant, mentioned below, was specifically developed to be an nsaid with less side effects (though it still needs to be given after food, I think). But the list of canine nsaids is long, so talk with your vet about perhaps trying something else to reduce the swelling in his spine. 2) However - DO NOT let him talk you into using a corticosteroid until you have no options left. It just is too harsh on the rest of their body and causes more problems than it alleviates, but if you're coming down to the end (a long time from now!!) it can give you a couple days grace to make arrangements and come to terms. 3) Other medications: >Gabapentin is the current favorite drug to use for nerve pain, but it's a very multi-purpose drug. Developed as a human prescription for seizures, it can be used for a lot of different issues. Some dogs respond well to it, some dogs don't. Greyhounds seem to be sensitive to it, so start out on a low dose and let him get used to that before increasing it. It also doesn't seem to last as long in greyhounds and needs to be given about every 6-8 hours rather than 10-12. >Amitriptyline - again, a human drug that will be an off-label use for dogs. Very very helpful in assisting other drugs in effectiveness, and as an anti anxiety drug on it's own. It's mostly being more popularly used in the last several years so some vets may not be familiar with it. >Tramadol - generally becoming out of favor as studies have shown it is not effective in relieving pain in humans or dogs. It's an opioid/controlled substance as well, and many greyhounds react badly to it. If I need an actual pain reliever (stronger than an nsaid) I go for Codeine Sulfate. This is another opioid, but much more effective and better tolerated than others. 4)Consider talking with your vet about using lidocaine injections - sort of like an epidural - when his nerve pain becomes uncontrollable in other ways. It can be mixed with a corticosteroid as well, which seems to be better tolerated in this form. This is a common human modality for treatment of back pain and sciatica, but it can work for dogs too. 5) All the other modalities mentioned can also be effective in helping keep him mobile and comfortable. Though really look into the chiro prior and talk with your vet and any prospective chiropractor prior and it can sometime worse spine conditions depending on what's wrong. I have had a lot of success with massage and acupuncture and completely recommend those. You can purchase laser machines to use at home, though I'm not sure about their effectiveness vs in-clinic treatments. I sure hope you and Buddy have a long time together!!

Dissolve 1 Tablespoon per 1 cup of as-warm-as-they-can-stand warm water. Try and keep it soaking until the water cools, but any time your dog will tolerate will be good. If he will only allow it a short time, then try and do it a few times a day. Very low impact on your part, and use his muzzle with some peanut butter in the front (or spread on the wall if you're standing him in a container) to keep him occupied if he gets antsy or anxious. You really can't make the solution too strong or soak too long.

Foot injuries are *extremely* difficult. They are hard to examine and difficult to bandage. The very thin skin and fur all around make it hard to stitch anything and have it be successful, not to mention it's probably the highest stress point on a dog since they have to use it to walk around and do everything. And they are impossible to keep clean and dry, and easily reached for licking. I would suspect that either the stitches, or part of the stitches didn't hold and a secondary infection started. OR there was a stitch that didn't dissolve and the infection began there. OR it's something totally unrelated to the previous cut. OR he's developed a corn from his altered gait from his earlier problem. OR there some sort of foreign body he's gotten stuck in his foot - thorn, grass seed, tiny piece of glass or rock. I've had several greyhounds rip or cut their webbing. After much angst and worry and money spent trying to heal the webbing, I usually just leave it to heal with the toes remaining separated. It's not worth it since the webbing remains vulnerable and will easily split again. Most foot injuries are the same. First - get him some sort of easily appliable foot covering for all outside time. His foot must stay clean and dry. Look into PAWZ rubber booties. Or one of these if you want a more permanent solution Medipaw Boots And use his muzzle to keep him from licking when he's not directly supervised. You may need to cover the bottom holes with duct tape. Two - soak his foot in a warm solution of water and epsom salts at least two times daily. This will help healing and draw out anything that may have become embedded. Using the liquid solution is best, especially if the wound was in between the toes, but you can also soak a washcloth in the solution, wrap it around his foot, and cover with a plastic back (secure with some vet wrap to help prevent leaking). Three - get him in to his regular vet for a thorough re-exam. Good luck.

I'm so, so sorry. Even when you know it's coming, it's always a horrible surprise. Run with the angels, sweet girl... You will be so missed.

{{{hugs}}}

{{{hugs}}}

Willa

Tessie

Annie!!

You spelled that wrong. Know Your Angel Wiki is perfection!!!

Such a rollercoaster journey. {{{hugs}}}

for Willa!!!!! for your Richard...

Sorry. Just seeing this. Generally it's not recommended to do removal surgery on corns. The recovery is long and painful, and the corn starts growing back immediately. But if it's infected, perhaps draining the toe will help, along with some antibiotics. Also, there could be a foreign body inside the toe, either encapsulated inside the corn or separate from it but causing the infection. Again, in this particular case, surgery might help. I think if you visit the Flexor Tenotomy Page of Facebook, they *may* either have a list of vets who do the surgery, or you can ask the membership for recommendations in your area. Also, if your vet is interested in learning how to do the procedure, the veterinarian (Dr Guilliard, I think) who created it is usually quite helpful. That info can also be found on the FB page.

Yunan Baiyao does work - we use it for Felicity - but it *is* an herbal supplement and doesn't quite have the medicinal punch of Amicar or TA. Personally I would stick with the RXs for amputations. If she's not had any bleeding issues previously she should be fine with the doses the surgeon described, but more doesn't hurt if you can find it.

Apologies for not seeing this sooner!! I'm so sorry you had to send your girl on her final journey. It's a tough job you (and Jan) have set for yourselves - always taking in the seniors. You and Chris are very courageous and compassionate. {{{hugs}}}

Well, it *is* reinforcing his reactivity, BUT, as stated, there is not much you can do in situations such as the one you described. Best practice is to keep your eyes and ears always scanning for things that could be problematic and try and avoid as many of them as possible. It's a constant question for dog owners of all breeds, no matter if they're reactive or not - what to do when you and your dog are approached by a dog or dogs who are unaccompanied and obviously up to no good??? You should research what is and isn't allowed wherever you're walking - for instance, some places in the US you cannot carry certain kinds of batons or sticks, or something like bear spray. And different countries will have very different rules. And different owners have their own tolerances for various solutions. Some things that have been suggested here on GT (which may or may not be appropriate for your situation): various types of long buggy/driving whips, the mentioned bear spray, long distance wasp spray, straight vinegar in a strong spray bottle, different kinds of folding batons and poles, different kinds of tazers. You can search here for threads about the subject for more ideas. Good luck.

We're all with you. {{{hugs}}} Give them both kisses from all of us!!!

Yeeeaaah. We have a 900 sq ft house with a large fenced yard. Most one bedroom apartments have more inside square feet than we do. At our most crowded we had 6 greyhounds and 4 indoor cats. As long as you're committed to several walks a day (plus for potties), you'll be absolutely fine. If you're concerned about rambunctiousness, talk with your group about taking in a returned dog or senior that is already used to living in a house.

The answer is always YES!!! BUT! Make sure you have the funds, and most of all, the time for a second dog. And temper your expectations for how your current dog will react. Greyhounds are used to living communally, so they (usually) get along just fine. But as mentioned, they may or may not turn out to be BFFs like you see pictures of on social media - cuddling and snuggling, playing together, etc. This question comes up frequently, so there are numerous threads to search for regarding adding a second greyhound to give you a ton more info. I will just add to all that - Common advice is to NOT get two of the same gender, especially two females. There is a higher chance of behavioral issues and frictions between two females than between two males or a mixed couple. But I've had three, and now two, girls for several years now and, while we do have some occasional minor dust ups over toys or snacks, we've had no serious issues. I would urge you to let your current girl help pick out her companion - play dates with fosters, or time in turn out with others at a kennel - to make sure you get a match that suits everyone.