greysmom

It's entirely possible. It could also be dislocated at that first joint. If you have a way to protect it until your exam - boot, sock, wrap, etc - it would help. Keep her quiet. She may be quite painful on it by tomorrow morning. And it might need to be removed - either the nail part or the whole joint. Your vet may need to take xrays to figure out what's going on. Good luck!!

You sure are looking good! You're everything a big bad wolf could want!!!!! OOOOOWWWWWWwwwwwweeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I won't hate you cause you're beautiful Wiki!!!

I actually carry a stuffy squeaker in my pocket when we're away from home. Better - or at least as good as - a squaker for getting a loose dog to come back to you, and a lot smaller and easier to carry.

A lot of good advice above. I'll just emphasize that growling is not a bad thing. Dogs have very limited ways they can communicate with us - mostly because humans are stupid and don't understand all that goes into dog language - body movements, vocalizations, eye movements. Humans have gotten into the habit of thinking/saying that growling is "aggressive" when it's just dogs trying to get their point across. So - no. Don't scold or otherwise try to extinguish your dog's growling. Use it as a signpost to reevaluate the situation to see what could be making him uncomfortable, and to try and find a way so he's not put in that situation again. Keep him off the couch, leave him alone on his bed - If you want to give him attention call him over to you - so he's awake and aware, and can choose if he wants attention. Teach him a command like, "off" or "go to your bed" so you can all calmly disengage and take a break. He's probably a breed snob - most greyhounds are - and really only recognizes other greyhounds. Anything smaller than him is a prey object, anything bigger than him is probably scary. He also may be what's called "Leash Reactive." He's uncomfortable and anxious meeting new/unfamiliar dogs when hampered by a leash. The training book "Feisty Fido: Help for the Leash Reactive Dog" by Patricia McConnell will give you some background and strategies to help him work through this issue. In fact, most of the books by this author are very informative and helpful and should be read by all dog owners.

I also urge a consult with a good certified animal behaviorist in your area. They are there and can observe your dog in person, while we're just responding to your description of an unwitnessed event. Couple thoughts... Number 1 - He's a show dog. He's been trained to not react to other dogs in the ring and to keep his mind on what he's doing. That doesn't mean he doesn't actually have reactions to other dogs, just that he's been trained not to show them. It could be that he's really not OK with other dogs, and as he settles into home life, he's relaxing the fences around some of the training as it's not reinforced. Number 2 - He's an intact, adult, large breed dog. There could have been something about the smaller dog that triggered a prey response in him. Unless you have a reason to keep him intact, talk with your vet about options for neutering him. It could just be a case of too much testosterone. Number 3 - Was the other dog younger? Very active? Jumping on him or around him? Being pushy about sniffing/smelling in private places? It could be a case of an older dog disciplining a younger dog for being an idiot. The bite/cut could have been completely accidental and not on purpose given the disparity in size between the two dogs. Number 4 - The smaller dog could also have been giving off idiot vibes that irritated the older/larger dog. Unless you witnessed the complete interaction, start to finish, and are an expert in dog body language there could have been clues that you missed that ended in your dog reacting. This is where the behaviorist can really help. Leash reactivity is usually caused by a higher level of anxiety than I think your dog would/should have towards other dogs. It's always a possibility in these kinds of situations, but not the primary one, IMO. There's a very good training book by Patricia McConnell called "Feisty Fido: Help for the Leash Reactive Dog" that may offer you some insights and help going forward.

As others have said, we've all been where you are now. It's never easy. And it probably shouldn't be. {{{hugs}}} Talk to your vet about increasing the frequency of his pain meds. You don't need to be conservative or worry about long-term side effects. Remember, you're trying to alleviate pain and make his last hours as comfortable as possible, not give him time to get better. A smaller dose given more frequently, or adding gabapentin (if you haven't yet), or tweaking his dosage schedule can help give him a boost for a short time. The most effective combination we found was a (well-tolerated) nsaid, codiene sulfate, and gabapentin. Recently it's become routine to add Amantadine to the mix as it increases the efficacy of other pain meds, but I don't have any personal experience with it. But it sounds like you are nearing the end. I strongly urge you to research options in your area for home euthanasia (ask your vet for recommendations). It's the calmest and least disruptive option for end-of-life care. Sherlock will leave calmly, relaxed, and surrounded by his loving family and home. If I have a choice I will never do it any other way.

We didn't do actual physical therapy, but did do weekly canine massage. I think it really helped keep everything loose and in proper alignment. You might ask them if they have a specific program to help tripods. So glad to read she's doing well!!!

Babushka Wiki is adorable!!!

Done

Take the fact she's a littermate out of the equation and first consider if 1) you *want* another dog; and 2) you can afford all the increased costs (food, treats, vet care); and 3) have the time for two dogs. If all those come out on the "add another dog" side, then definitely take a look and have the two dogs meet. Usually greyhounds get along with each other just fine, whether they are littermates or not, but occasionally you do find two that just aren't as compatible. Popular myth says that two females are more problematic than other pairings, but I have two (unrelated) girls now and they get along just fine. The house dynamics change once you have two dogs. It takes some getting used to and some extra management on the humans part. Make sure everyone is on board completely with getting another. But, in general, there just aren't that many downsides and a lot of positives.

Great news!!! Don't be discourage if she has episodes of backsliding though. You're going in the right direction overall!! And do search out NeylasMom's links above if you feel you need additional help and support! Good job!!!

Any pre-existing condition is problematic for insurance no matter what it is. Do you know what the toe was amputated for? If she broke it or it was a serial dislocator there (probably) won't be any on-going issues. If it was amped due to corns or a kind of tumor, or some other issue there could be things you'd need to deal with in the future. It can also take upwards of a year before the foot settles into it's post-amp configuration, and it can be tender while all the bones and ligaments are moving around. She will limp and be protective of this foot until it feels like hers again. Inspect the remaining toe pads for re-emerging corns as the altered gait following her surgery could cause them to form on other toes. But in general, the whole "weight bearing toe" thing is a non-issue. I've seen many greyhounds with *two* toes gone and they get around fine.

You'd need to be very careful administering carprofen to her - only on a full stomach, definitely for her. And still, I'd be inclined to go with Galliprant if you can find it at an acceptable price, just for that reason. Meloxicam liquid can also be a little easier on the stomach, if that's an option,

You're really having quite a go around with her. I'm so sorry. There have been many who make their way here to GT who have had to deal with this level of SA with newly adopted greyhounds, so you are definitely not alone in the Separation Anxiety boat. I urge you to slog your way through the many (many) threads on the subject to see if anything sounds helpful. There are a lot of them so stick with the ones from the last 5 or so years. Couple other thoughts as I was reading... The first behaviorist that you tried - it this person a certified animal behaviorist? Was s/he recommended to you by someone? This person does have some valid points, but they only touch the surface of dealing with SA and not at all on Phoebe's level, and this may be out of their level of expertise. I would urge you to stick with your vet behaviorist at this point, as you work through dispensing medications. Don't look for quick fixes from the meds. Clomicalm is where most vets begin because it's one of the only anti anxiety drugs approved for veterinary use for SA. In the UK you are just beginning to use anti anxiety drugs at all, and I'm a bit surprised you found a vet who'll use them. But - be prepared for the Clomicalm not to help. It can and it does for *some* dogs. There's no guarantee it will work for Phoebe. You may need to try another (or several other) anti anxiety drugs before finding one that helps her. Each dog's brain chemistry is different and there's no telling what is going to turn the key and allow her to accept counter conditioning. As far as crate training goes, it seems she's comfortable in her crate then I would use it to help her. If you're home with her, working in the same room for a few minutes and she's quiet in her crate, close the door. Keep working for a few minutes and then reopen the door - no fussing, no big deal. Extend the "close door" with you in the room time until she's just relaxed no matter how long the door is closed. Then close the door and leave the room. Come right back and open the door. Rinse and repeat, extending the time as she's comfortable, until you can work upstairs with her in her crate with the door closed as long as you need. It should be easy from there to move on to leaving the house. Look into doggy day care, or friends who may be able to watch her in your home for work days. Your adoption group might also be able to take her back into the kennel for a few hours a day if they're convenient to you, though that may set her back. If you can set her up in a safe and easily cleanable area, it's probably going to be best to keep at this in your home. I do feel your pain. Our most recent girl attached herself to me like Phoebe did for you. I couldn't leave the house without her freaking out - even though my husband and two other greyhounds were with her. Plus, we're both retired, so we're around the house 24/7 most days anyway. Then with Covid it got hard to figure out how to deal with her issues. We ended up using the anti anxiety drug Trazadone with her for a good 18 months before she got comfortable with me leaving. Now we just have to work on both of us leaving the house at the same time!!! It can be a long process, so don't lose hope.

I was just thinking about this!! I'm in for the card exchange!!

I think those are Irish tattoos. Have you tried inputting them on Greyhound Data? They often have foreign dogs listed. Your adoption group should be able to tell you his registered name.

Also, I seriously doubt an Italian Greyhound could run much farther than around the block. I've seen quite a few at LGRA meets and 200 yards is a long ways for one of those tiny guys! They also do not run very quickly compared to larger dogs due to their "hackney" style of moving.

{{{hugs}}}

Yes. Please take a step back with her. Stop all walks for the moment and limit her time on leash outside to necessary potty trips. Let her decompress and settle in a bit longer. She will come out of her shell in her own time!! Keep to a strict schedule of feeding and toileting - very calm and very consistent, even if you only walk to the same bush and back every time. She's also going through the process of learning to trust her new people, along with her new environment - both things she's never experienced before. It just takes some dogs lots more time than others. If you have friends or mentors in your adoption group with a calm friendly greyhound, see if they can come over for a visit and try out a short walk together. If it doesn't work, don't force the issue. It was just something to try that sometimes helps. In a few months she will most likely let you know she's ready to expand her world a little more - looking around, sniffing, looking out the window at home, or going to the door with interest. Then it's time to see how she does on a *short* outing. Again, don't get excited and plan a mile hike around the neighborhood!! Just a short walk down the block and back. Same the next day, and maybe the next. Then go a little farther and see what happens. It may be a one-step-forward-two-steps-back thing for a while, but she will come around. Let us know how she's going around Thanksgiving!

If he doesn't need the rx food for a digestive issue, and you're just putting in a spoonful or two as an enticement, you can probably pick out whatever looks good to you and fits into your budget. My dogs always seem to like the bargain brands the best for this - the cheaper the better! We use Pedigree canned food, or Beneful Prepared Meals. Purina also has sensitive stomach canned food to go along with the kibble, if he does need a special food.

I'm so sorry John. A good life, well lived. She will be missed.

My last bad of Purina smelled a bit off to me, but both my dogs were eating it in the beginning even if it was less than enthusiastically. Towards the end of that bag, one of them was needing much more encouragement than normal to eat, but would eventually clean her bowl. No one was having any digestive issues or bad stools. And the other dog scarfed it right up first asking. Opened the new bag (same brand, same flavor, same shipping source, different lot) and everyone's back to scarfing with no encouragement needed! It smells better to me, too!

"Classic Symptoms" are classic for a reason, but they're not the only reactions a dog can have towards aging. Infections in the elderly can increase dementia issues - in people you usually see it in UTIs, but it can be any infection - and individuals reacts differently to antibiotics. If you don't have a followup scheduled I would see about having him re-evaluated. And possibly a trial of that doggy dementia drug.

It can't have leek in it as that's in the onion family. Fast him until the diarrhea stops. Then gradually introduce very small amounts of a home cooked bland diet. Use a high fiber carb source like sweet potato if you want, or use half Olewo carrot-half whole grain. And a low fat protein. If the diarrhea starts up again he needs to go in to the vet. If he stays good, gradually start to introduce his regular food after 3-4 meals.