greysmom

Patience and finding the right yummy treat to motivate her! Remember, the drive to please their owner is not part of a greyhounds DNA. They have been bred for hundreds, if not thousands, of years to work independently. So making training a part of play, or using shaping techniques like clicker training will work better than traditional obedience. At this age they can't - and won't - concentrate for more than a few minutes at a time, so many short sessions a day works better than one longer one. Make sure you also work on crate training if you ever want to leave the house! We had Great Danes for many years before downsizing to greyhounds too. They are similar in many respects, but more alike as older adults than as puppies. Greyhound puppies need a lot more exercise than our Danes to tire them out. A lot. Really. So get her vaccinated and start socializing her! Doggy Day care can be wonderful if she's confident and outgoing. If you're a runner, nows the time to begin conditioning her for longer distances. They're bred for sprinting, but can learn to love running longer distances. Hiking when it's not too hot, as well. Enjoy your new puppy!

I'm so sorry. Please get in touch immediately with greyhound expert Dr Guillermo Couto. An online consult costs $150, I think, but well worth it. He can give you an idea of what's going on and treatment going forward. In the meantime, definitely make sure where she is has her on Aminocarproeic acid or tranexamic acid for her post op bleeding. Dr Couto consultation information

I'm pretty sure that once they test positive for a TBD they can test positive again in the future at any time, even without showing any symptoms. They can also go for years, or even the rest of their lives without having any issues at all. I think what your vet lays out is fine, sensible advice, most of which you would do anyway. So it sounds like you have a diagnosis and a plan moving forward. Not sure what you want comments about beyond that, but I hope she stays asymptomatic.

Just remember it says in the article this particular test may NOT work for greyhounds!!! They have different DNA bases than Deerhounds.

First, she needs to go in for a complete check up and a talk with your vet. Uncontrollable hunger can be an indication of a thyroid imbalance, digestive issues, even cancer, so don't let the vet fob you off with calling it simply a behavioral issue. Investigate and eliminate all medical causes first. If you determine it *is* a behavioral issue you need to take a different approach. Punishment - like the squirt bottle - are generally less effective with sighthounds who just don't care about people's opinion in general!! Most dogs will take any food that's available whenever they can as they are genetically mostly scavengers. In the short term you need to manage the behavior you don't want by changing yours. The number one thing is to simply not let her around human food when mealtimes are happening - keep her out of the area when feeding the baby or having people meals. Don't eat snacks or give her a bite of whatever you're eating by hand. Baby gate her in another room or area of the house, or use a crate to keep her contained. Once she doesn't have free access to human food on demand you can work on her end of things. Second, be better about keeping people food out of her reach - like not putting lunch in a bag at nose level. Yes, this is annoying and means more work for humans. Third, teach her a reliable "leave it!" command - she's already food motivated so this should go quickly for her. There are some really great videos out there of how to easily teach this behavior. While you're looking up videos look up NILIF - Nothing In Life Is Free - training. Basically, it means your dogs has to "pay" for everything she gets - her daily food, treats, going out the door, rides, everything! - by performing a simple command. Again, she's food motivated, so you should be able to teach her a sit or down or a touch command fairly quickly. It helps establish her place in the family so she doesn't feel like she's the boss of the house and can do anything she wants. This is NOT "dominance" training where you're rolling her over or poking her in the neck all the time. You're simply making sure she knows that humans *give* her everything she wants and she can't just take it. All of this takes time and patience to change, and you may need to go back to it several times throughout her life as she tests her boundaries. She's had this behavior reinforced very strongly, so you're going to have to work a bit to extinguish it. Anger and annoyance won't help you - remember, you helped establish this pattern in the first place! Food is important, so the urge to get it is equally important to her. You just need to be more patient through this than she is until you get the results you want.

I've been waiting for this news for a couple years now!!! Genetic Testing Developed for Excessive Bleeding Disorder in Sighthounds Both Andi and Felicity submitted blood samples two years ago for genetic testing to help develop this test. Felicity does have DEPOH and we deal with that issue constantly. Andi does not have it normally, but she had some bad post-up bleeding following her first surgery to fix her badly broken leg. They were nominated for the study by the head of the bloodbank where we donate blood. This is awesome news for every greyhound owner!! To know beforehand whether you need to go to the time and expense to find Amicar (or a substitute) is brilliant!!!

You are perfect just the way you are, sweet girl!!

He's torn his gracilis muscle. It's super common with greyhounds. Depending on how long ago it happened there may or may not be anything you can do about it. It's usually not painful once it the end heals from the tear, and opinion is split about whether you even *should* do anything treatment-wise. If you have a greyhound-savvy vet they can better advise you about what to do going forward.

I'm so sorry........ {{{hugs}}}

Firstly, I'm so sorry that you're having to join this particular club. It just sucks. All the way around, up and down. Second - and I don't mean to sound harsh, it is what it is - your dog is already on hospice alert. Once the cancer is able to be detected on xray, it has already spread throughout their body, and it's just waiting to metastisize somewhere else. The entire purpose of going the amp/chemo route is to remove the primary source of pain for your dog. We know that even small lesions of osteo are hideously painful. But even after you remove the primary tumor already diagnosed, you only extending the period of time for your goodbyes. The cancer will, eventually, come back. If you go with amp/chemo your dog will need to spend significant amounts of time at the vet for the first two to three months. If everything goes according to plan, the visits will be less after that, but they will still be needed. Our boy LOVED going to the vet, and the oncology staff loved having around. They would set him up for his chemo in the middle of their office instead of in a kennel and take turns sitting with him and giving him tons of attention the entire time. But he was never nervous or anxious going to see them and I never had a minutes anxiety myself leaving him. It was fortunate he loved it because the first three months he was there as much as at home between three surgeries and follow-up appointments, bloodwork and labs, chemo, follow up xrays - it seemed every week he was there for something vital to check or fix or start or finish. So really (really) consider the effect that the stress of having to go to the vet so much will have on your dog. Going the palliative care route is a perfectly valid choice for many owners. You don't get as long to say goodbye - the pain-free time you get with drug therapy is short - but your dog will be happy at home with the people he loves, without the added anxiety of going to the vet so often. The biggest risk with doing this option is the risk from your dog having a catastrophic bone fracture at home due to the cancer eating away at the bone. If you go this route it's best to have a discussion with your vet about what to do in the event of such an emergency. It's also fine to choose neither of those, and to let your boy go before the pain becomes unbearable. When he's having a good day after you've spoiled him rotten. A day you can both choose in advance and be in control of. I recommend finding a good vet who can come to your home to perform the euthanasia so everyone can be relaxed and accept the end with grace and dignity. We've done it all sorts of ways, and this is, by far, the only way we will choose to let our dogs go if we have any choice at all. A note about your vet: Having a sympathetic doctor is always the best. But they are wired to fix things - even things that can't be fixed. So they are almost always going to advise doing amp/chemo. That's not bad or good, just what their knowledge and experience tell them is the thing to do. They also, for the most part, don't have to consider the cost of what that route means to most people. For us, in 2011, our dog's amp/chemo and nine months of life ended up costing us nearly $20,000. Fortunately, we had just received a substantial amount of money from my mother-in-law's estate, so we could afford it. It sucks having to consider this part, but you do need to factor it in. It's not an easy choice - and it shouldn't be - but whichever choice you make know it's the right one for you and your dog and your individual situation. It's highly personal and none of us can tell you what that choice should be. We can just lay out the options for you to have as much information as you need. Again, I'm sorry...

That is the most awesomest thing EVERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would start searching for a good boot for that foot. Make sure it fits properly, keep the toenails on that foot really short, and perhaps use a toddler sock underneath the boot to help it stay on when she runs. If the foot doesn't get so much torque put on it, it may not split so easily. You still need to keep her quiet. I just spent two years - TWO YEARS - keeping a two year old under exercise restrictions. It can be done. But it takes daily leash walking, lots of brain games, and a ton of patience. You also might look into getting a second opinion from another vet.

Webbing repairs very rarely hold since the skin is so thin, and they take forever to heal because there's so much stress at those places. There's no need to stress over this though. Dogs do just fine without having webbing and I've had dogs who's whole foot was "unattached" so to speak. You're basically going to be managing an open wound, so it's going to take time - another 2 or 3 months. Keep it clean and dry as much as possible. Cover it with a boot if needed during the bad weather. Try and keep her from running - exercise restrictions on leash if necessary - for 4-6 weeks to give the wound a chance to heal. If you want to help speed things along a daily soak in warm epsom salt water will keep the wound clean and promote healing. You can use some antibiotic spray - Neosporin spray or another type of wound spray are the easiest, but creams or ointments also can work. If it gets infected it's going to take longer, so keep a watch out. You can do this.

Something to keep in mind for the future. This is aimed at small breed dogs like Dachshunds, but could have potential for larger dogs down the road. Study @ Texas A&M - Potential new treatment for herniated dics

Those are signs of having a pain episode. I myself can't really distinguish between phantom pain from the amped limb and real pain from surgery or other causes. In any event, pain signs such and panting, elevated heart rate, restlessness and whining mean you may need to up his pain meds. Licking is a common way dogs sooth themselves, too. It could be just soothing behavior, OR it could mean he is having pain at that particular spot. If you're seeing his oncologist soon, I would mention it and ask about grabbing a quick xray of that leg (toes to shoulder) just to make sure the cancer hasn't metastasized into that leg. Hang in there!!! We've all been where you are now and we understand what you're going through.

I mean, the list of available nsaids is long. It's just finding the one that works the best for your individual dog. I would suggest Galliprant, as others have, because it's supposed to have way fewer side effects and organ issues, but (anecdotally) it's success is very spotty for the dogs we see take it here on GT. We are a Meloxicam house here because I've always had the best luck and effectiveness with that drug (as opposed to Rimadyl or carprofen). It is very persnickity regarding dosage-by-weight though, and the range is very small. It *does* have the option of a liquid suspension that is easier to give an individual dose (and adjustments to the dose). It's also a lot easier of their stomachs and causes less upset and nausea, especially when given after a meal. If you're keeping her on the Gabapentin, you might also discuss adding in an actual pain reliever. We use codiene sulfate as I find it much more effective than Tramadol and much better tolerated. You also might try adding a dose of an anti anxiety med that helps the gaba and the opiate be more effective. Some here have tried this with their osteo dogs and found it to be very effective. Of couse, I can't remember the one used/suggested - I think it starts with an "A" though. Check through the last pages of the current Osteo Thread. Someone may have mentioned it there.

You be shocked, surprised, terrified, joyful, and many other emotions by what your tripod ends up doing!! Our boy could do our steep stairs up to our bedroom - up AND down!! - and I had my heart in my throat each and every trip! But he was determined to sleep with us, as he always did, so he figured out how to do it. He loved digging in the yard, and figured out how to do that with three legs too. He did zoomies with his brother and sisters, played with the lure pole, chased balls, threw his stuffies around - a tripod will do everything. No matter how much it scares you!! Just listen and watch them carefully so he doesn't overdo. We ended up doing acupuncture and canine massage at home for him, to help our boy stay loose and keep his skeleton in line. There are a lot of physical stresses on their bodies and keeping them in shape really helps. Also, PTSD is real for you. Don't neglect your own mental and physical health. {{{hugs}}}

Most of our post-surgical dogs do well on a combination of a tolerated nsaid, gabapentin, and a true pain medication. Most vets are still prescribing Tramadol, even though (as Rachel mentioned) it's now currently thought to not be effective for people OR animals. I recommend an opiate called codiene sulfate. It's better tolerated with less chance of a bad opiate reaction. Two things: One - in some respects, it doesn't matter what your vet "says" is supposed to be happening. What is important is what your individual dog is actually experiencing. So if he's still having pain, whether real or phantom, he still needs regular pain medication. Yes, at this point 2 weeks post-surgery, you should be able to taper down the doses to the minimum required, but he may need more support than that. Two - not to put it too finely, but you don't need to be conservative with any meds you do decide to give. Even though he's had his amp and come out fine, he does still have a terminal disease, and his remaining time with you may be measured in days to a couple years. You don't need to be worried about long term side effects from any nsaid as long as it doesn't upset his stomach and interrupt his ability to eat. Gabapentin can have a sedative effect initially and take several days for his body to become used to the dosage. I recommend using the 100mg (or even 50mg) capsules so you can better tailor his dosage to what is effective for him at the time. Third - talk with your oncologist about perhaps adding in an anti anxiety medication if you feel he is having phantom pains rather than post-surgical pain. These may come and go as you begin chemotherapy. Dogs generally get through the process much easier than people, but it can be a difficult period for the humans in their life! Good luck!

The order doesn't matter since you are farther along in the investigative process. It's just another tool in the toolbox. Ducky's question about grain free food is valid, however the effects of DCM are usually much worse. Reflux is definitely a possibility.

Greyhounds are more prone to kidney issues, but three does seem a bit young. Unless there's some underlying condition I would really wonder if she got in to something environmental that damaged her kidneys. Or possibly kidney stones or a tumor. You might consider doing an abdominal ultrasound. It's a low impact test that can show you a lot about what's going on in there - most specifically if there are any masses or physical abnormalities which may be impacting her health. If the Librela isn't effective, there is also a relatively new nsaid named Galliprant which has fewer side effects. Many greyhound owners have had good results using it. Good luck.

That's not unusual for a male greyhound puppy. Or a female one, for that matter!! On a breeding farm, at this stage in his development, he would be housed in a looking outdoor kennel run with his other littermate brothers, spending his days running and playing 24/7. Give your boy plenty of time for exercising, and use up other energy with learning. He's a big knowledge sponge at this point just ready to soak up very thing you can throw at him. Socialization is a BIG deal for him as well. He needs exposure to as many different dogs and people and outdoor spaces and indoor spaces and anything else you can think of to help him learn to be courageous and adaptable. You can search here for various threads about how to tire out a puppy. A friend has even introduced her puppies to swimming and dock diving competitions. Her boy LOVES it, and has already earned a dock diving title.

There are valid reasons for and against, but, IMO, safety for all household members trumps all those. If you're already having difficulties with him behavior-wise, I'd say you should go ahead and have it done. Yes, there are risks. But there are also millions and millions of dogs alive and completely healthy today who were neutered at 6 months old. There's no reason - other than affordability - to not take him in for a quick xray of the growth plates on the ends of his long leg bones to see what their status is. Your vet should be able to easily tell you If they can't, find a new vet. If they won't, find a new vet. No matter how his growth plates are doing and when you end up neutering him, he *will* continue to grow into his adult body until he's closer to three years old (and possibly longer). Whatever you decide to do about the surgery, he needs some serious training to help both of you communicate and for him to be a safe and productive member of the larger society. Find a good positive-reinforcement only training class - preferrably with a trainer familiar with greyhounds. Look up Nothing In Life Is Free (NILIF) training on the internet and/or Youtube for other ideas and how to begin. Again, positive-reinforcement only. Good luck, whatever you decide to do.

I must have forgotten to hit post several days ago. Just FYI Very very very occasionally you will see a corn resolve after being removed, but unless you address the underlying ligament issue causing the altered gait they will almost always come back. In the FB group you'll see mention of the Flexor Tenotomy surgery. This minor surgical procedure basically cuts the toe tendon to the corn toe, releasing the tension causing the corn - basically artificially creating a sprung toe. This will (usually) cure the corn for good, though it doesn't stop corns from popping up on adjacent toes or other feet.

It's *probably* nothing. Really. Not every single thing is a problem. Sometimes a cough is just a cough. But... In a getting-to-be-a-senior dog, any symptom can be something to to watch. And an intermittent cough was my puppy's only indication of a heart defect, so I have PTSD around hearing one! To be honest, if it was me, (and I could easily afford it), I would probably do BOTH a chest xray AND schedule an echocardiogram before I would allow my dog to undergo anesthesia for a dental if I had any questions in my mind at all. Both are quick and easy to do without any sedation, and will give you a lot of confidence going forward. And if she does happen to develop any serious issues in the future they will give you a baseline for comparison. There is also this specific blood test: Pro-BNP Testing It could be your vet has already done this, but if not it's also easy and quick and very accurate in diagnosing heart issues.

A couple folks in my LGRA group have Azawakhs and they are lovely dogs. A bit standoff-ish, but not any more than a self-confident greyhound. They are quite striking looking. They are very rare and very difficult to find though, and expensive when you do.