greysmom

There was a poster a few days ago on the Facebook Greytalk (no relationship to this forum) who was talking about exactly this situation. Her FB user name is "Jessica Ann" and she has an Instagram page called @jessandherfuzzies. You might want to look her up and get some advice from her on how she manages her greyhound with multiple other animals.

I imagine she's dealing with some ptsd from her former home trying to get her outside. She still - and may for her entire life - associate that activity with "bad thing," so you're going to need to try and find some ways to manage this behavior. You're also NOT going to find it by this weekend. If she is crate trained I would suggest crating her at night. If she's not, an xpen around her bed (or your bed) is probably next best. You can also use it to block her off in the bedroom at night. You can also try upping your treat game significantly. Use whatever is her most favorite thing ever to lure her and get her moving - roasted chicken, liverwurst, mild jerky, cat food. Make sure you're also praisepraisepraising every time she shows a little bit of confidence in doing what you'd like her to do. Then I'm going to suggest you find a certified canine behaviorist to come to your home and observe her interactions to give you and her some strategies to help her move through this challenge. Make sure this person *only* uses positive reinforcement techniques and has some familiarity working with dogs who have confidence problems

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

I've had multiples for years, and really, this is pretty normal play behavior for greyhounds. It often sounds like WW3 in my yard when all of them get going. One other thing to consider is that this behavior might be why your first boy didn't race. If they interfere with other dogs trying to play or be aggressive they are disqualified and turfed out, sent to adoption. If that's the case, you will see evidence of it in the notes from any training races he ran on his Greyhound Data or TrackInfo page (under his registered name). Keep the muzzles on and supervise them closely. If your second is disciplining the first, but the first is not backing down appropriately or changing his behavior, you may need to have them play separately for everyone's safety.

Put the toys away for a while. Some Greyhounds never get interested in them anyway. She's so new and has such a high level of anxiety that you need to be super patient with her, and give her a lot more time to settle into her completely new living situation.

Call your vet and explain your situation. This has been going on long enough that it could permanently damage his digestive tract, whatever the root cause is. If he needs to be on flagyl to get better then he should be.

Sweethearts!

He's resource guarding his bed from the other dogs. You and your friends need to be more proactive in keeping them separated when the dogs are together. Move the bed he typically uses to a more isolated location, out of the main walking paths. Use an xpen or crate if necessary. Do a search here for resource guarding and bed guarding and see if your friends will use some of the tips and tricks suggested. As a last resort you may need to find a non-dog home to watch him when you're out of town.

There are plenty of greyhounds that live well with outdoor animals of all sorts - chickens, cats, squirrels, small dogs, and assorted small animals - but it takes time and training to desensitize even a small animal safe dog to accept those conditions and those animals as part of his pack. This isn't a behavior trait that you can guarantee either, even with a small animal tolerant dog. So if you do decide to go ahead with adopting a greyhound you definitely need to have a back up plan in case s/he can't be safe. That can be something like: >creating a smaller fenced-in turnout area close to your door where the dog can do his business and get some exercise off lead, that the cat can get out of but the dog can't >figuring out a way to confine the cat for periods of time. >making the cat a true indoor cat - which will not be easy for anyone, I know, but so much healthier for the cat >realizing that the safest thing for both dog and cat may be to return the dog if s/he turns out to be unworkable in your situation The other thing to do is be entirely honest with the adoption group you are working with to make sure they can get a proper match for you. You need to be able to state unequivocally that you are committed to getting the dog the exercise s/he needs, and committed to working with the cat tolerant dog they place with you to ensure your cat's safety. Anoother limiting factor you will be dealing with is that there is a nationwide shortage of greyhounds going into adoption right now. Many times, groups won't know what kinds of dogs they are getting until they actually have them in hand to test and assess, so you may end up waiting a while for the proper personality and behavior traits you need, since your needs are pretty specific. Lastly, I will just say that you shouldn't take the opinions of people on the internet so much to heart. If you want a greyhound, most everything *can* be accomplished with the right commitment. Talk with your group, go to greyhound events, and talk with people who have greyhounds in your area who have similar issues. See if there's a certified animal behaviorist, or a good positive reinforcement only trainer your group recommends, to discuss *exactly* what you need to do in terms of training and desensitization. And once you have your greyhound, always keep in mind their safety and well being.

I don't know. They might end up wetter afterwards!!!! Cletus!

Seconding everything Bizeebee said above. You really need to consider whether a greyhound is the right breed for you given your physical home's set up and your life style.

You can use some cold compresses to help the bruise stop spreading, and alternate with some warm ones to help it reabsorb. Try not to worry unless there is *dramatic* growth in the next few hours. This sort of thing is really common following blood draws.

I'm so sorry that Winston had to leave you and your family. It's never easy, but these sudden losses are really hard. {{{hugs}}}

Such a beautiful boy with a beautiful story. Run In Peace sweet boy.......

Nope. Though I would probably add a good book and glass of my favorite adult beverage!

Welcome back! Medford is quite far south from the Portland metro area where I live - you'll almost be at the California border. It's possible to get to the coast from there, but you'll be driving a bit through rather wild country. Better to come back north to one of the main highways going west and go that way. The south coast is beautiful but with fewer actual beaches - lots of cliffs and bays rather than long stretches of beach. If you look on a map, from about Newport north you will generally find more sand. But you are close to some really cool areas. Ashland Oregon is the home to a world famous Shakespeare and theatrical festival. Crater Lake National Park is definitely worth a visit and should be spectacular that time of year. And Mt Shasta in northern California is closer than the beach! There are many wineries there offering tours and tastings. It will still be pretty warm there in September. The south valley is much higher elevation and much drier. We haven't had many forest fires this year, but it could be smokey if one breaks out between now and then. If you're back in the Portland area around the 21st our adoption group is having their annual picnic that day and you would definitely be welcome to join us!

I think it's called something like "misdirected aggression." Basically, they get overly excited by something and they direct this excitement in an incorrect way onto something/someone nearby. We usually see it happen when people come home, and the dog gets really amped up and bites the person coming home, or a housemate who's just standing there. And sometimes the bites can be very hard since they aren't in control of their bite force at that moment. What usually works is to redirect their attention to a toy or chew object that is more appropriate. Having something right by the door to distract them as soon as you come in, for example. Out on walks it's going to be harder to identify what is triggering his excitement, so be super observant when you have him out and in situations where you know he becomes overly excited. Carry a small squeaky toy, or a really super yummy treat. If you can change his focus from the trigger to you and his reward, you can stop and/or shorten the behavior. In a calmer time, teach him a command to follow, like "watch me," or sit, or just about anything that's quick and easy. Use this command to direct his attention and keep him calm. You basically need to help him learn self control, and how to calm himself down. If you have trouble getting the hang of it or catching his cues, try and get the help of a positive reinforcement only trainer who can be there in person to watch and guide you, and give you some professional advice.

Testing for hookworm and giardia should have been the very first thing that was done. If it's parasites, none of the other things are going to help.

Since it's happening with both of them, my first thought would be something normal for *them.* Second thought is to have them checked, and possibly prophylacticly treated, for parasites. Third, do they get any sort of daily probiotic with their meals? It's also possible they just need more consistent fiber in their diet. You can add things like Metamucil (no xylitol), green beans, oat bran, beet pulp, or other high fiber foods - but they need to be consistently added. Fourth, does it happen after either a long play session, OR a more extended wait time between potty breaks? Both actions can cause the poop that's already processed to get sort of - overcooked? Sorry. TMI. But having a full bowel can mean the contents do get more beaten up and softened before exiting the body. If you get what I mean. In any case, this should be discussed with their vet, as it could also be something that needs medical intervention.

Cletus!!

Make sure your adoption group knows about your first dog and her personality so they can match a greyhound to fit in with her. Also have your first dog be a part of choosing your greyhound, if possible. Take her along when you meet prospective dogs and watch how she responds. Most greyhounds get along fine with dogs around their size or bigger. So there shouldn't be any problems if your first dog is larger. Reputable adoption groups will test their greyhounds for tolerance levels with both cats AND smaller dogs, so talk with your group about how they vet their animals. I will say that greyhounds can and do lie on their cat and small dog testing, so if that is going to be an issue with your first dog you will need to monitor them closely until you're very certain they won't have issues. It's also possible that a dog that should really be an only dog will slip by the testing. Don't hesitate to be in touch with your group if you feel the levels of not-getting-along is higher than you feel comfortable with in your house. Your first dog's safety should absolutely be your priority and responsibility, and there's no shame in returning a greyhound who really doesn't fit into your household. Another, better fit will be just around the corner.

I completely understand! Our first puppy was a breeze, aided in large part by her being "nannied" by one of our other dogs. So we were really unprepared for our second puppy last year. Atom was very difficult to correct - he was not afraid of much, and would bark back at you if you told him no! So NILIF and constant redirection and engagement was the only thing we found that worked. We're now bringing uime his true littermate sister and I'm really hoping she's past all of the teenage angst stage! At 18 months your guy should be starting to mature out of the need for puppy pranks. Still he may need either more supervision, or confinement to a smaller, safer area for times when he's not being monitored. I know GTer Krissy, who is a vet and trainer and does Agility with her greyhounds, advocates this last for her puppies. They are created whenever she isn't working directly with them, or giving them free play time. You might look up her profile as she has links to her website and training videos which are really fun and informative.

I dont think so necessarily. I had a "bad teeth" greyhound that could have had a full dental every 6 months. Two years seems like a decent time frame to me, especially if it's for a relatively minor cleaning. If your girl is healthy there should be no reason why she should hit undergo a routine anesthesia and be fine. Did she have any trouble when she was put under before that makes you nervous? Does your vet use approved protocols for anesthesia with greyhounds? Please explore here for the most recent threads regarding hookworm treatment. There are a couple different protocols you could try. It's really important to do everything you reasonably can to clear them as they can destroy your dog's intestinal tract.

Basically, this is a greyhound puppy. And yes, absent any training, this is how he's going to be for the next 2-3 years. You CAN NOT allow him to run the house, or else he will. Whoever said greyhounds aren't smart was absolutely wrong - they are hella smart at doing and getting exactly what they want. They are excellent people trainers, as well - so CUTE, so ADORABLE - all hiding a dark heart of larceny! I'm being a bit facetious, of course, but it really is all about managing that puppy energy in constructive ways. Distraction and constant re-direction will be your watch words going forward. If he goes nutso the minute you step in the door coming home, then have something ready right there you can hand him or distract him with to stop the butt tuck zoomies in the house - a puzzle toy, a *large* chewing item or toy, or something/anything else than letting him loose to indulge himself. At the park, give him a little more time. He'll bounce back from his post-running flop in about 8 minutes and want to do it all again. At 18 months he should be able to run as much as he wants without any physical harm - which is what he would be doing in a farm or training setting - so instead of the 20 minute walk, bring a Chuck-It ball or toy, do a short training session, give him a small drink and let him go running again. Training, training training. Engage his brain at every single oppportunity you can. Take him to obedience. Start him doing Agility. Do some straight line racing or short lure coursing. If you have a canine swim therapy pool nearby it's excellent exercise and you can get him into dock diving. Really seriously do NILIF - he needs to pay for every single thing he has, everything he eats, every treat. You're not trying to teach him to be a perfect obedience dog, you're trying to teach him to regulate himself and have impulse control. You also probably need to up your puppy-proofing game at home. Sounds like he's going to be one where you'll have penny cans all over the house and on every horizontal surface. Deny him access to things that will get him in trouble as much as possible. Put things behind closed doors, or away in drawers, don't leave anything even remotely edible out at all. And always have something around to re-direct him to if you catch him getting into anything. But there's really nothing better than raising a dog to be a good family member! A little hard work now will really pay off for the next 10-12 years. Good luck!