3greytjoys

Just curious about your hound's age, and how long you've had him? Agree. Dogs being used to crates as happy and safe places is important (helpful if crate's door is left open for them to enter to retrieve treats or eat meals and rest inside at their leisure). In addition to encouraging periodic crate comfort for future surgery and hospitalization purposes, it's important if you ever want to take your dog to multi-day events, or on dog-friendly vacations, or to visit friends/family, if you need to board your dog in an emergency, etc. Most importantly, please be especially cautious regarding your hound's access to your sister's cat. Just because your hound has not displayed a prey drive to date doesn't mean he will never show a prey drive. Greyhounds (sighthounds) are hunting dogs and their deeply ingrained instinct might surface when least expected. Ensure the cat has multiple escape routes: e.g., install a baby-gate about 6" above floor level so the cat has a better chance to escape; pull large furniture/sofa away from the wall just enough for the cat to run behind and turn around, without the dog being able to squeeze through. Remember that a muzzled hound can still capture and seriously harm a cat either by mouth or pouncing on a cat -- whether play or prey intent. (All of our Greyhounds are cat tolerant; however, all have attempted to chase our indoor cats at times, including our now 14 year old hound. I would not leave hounds and cats free and alone together unsupervised, especially not a new hound or fosters.)

to GreyTalk! Many GT members have flying experience with Greyhounds. My Greyhound flight planning is limited to the USA, but our adoption groups have had young hounds flown in from Spain, Guam, Korea, etc. Commercial airlines that fly animals have strict animal safety regulations. Transporting live animals in cargo requires their larger jets, plus destination airports that can accommodate larger jets. Dogs' veterinary check-ups and health certificates are required before flying, plus vaccinations required by airlines and the destination's animal laws. Travel crate sizes are very important. Dogs must be able to stand up, turn around, lie down comfortably, and have a certain number of excess inches above head, back, etc. Dogs are measured standing in their crate before being placed on plane. If crates are not large enough for their air safety regulations, airlines will refuse to accept the dogs before loading/take off. IME, airlines will not allow animals to have pre-flight medications (no anti-anxiety medications, etc.). If possible, non-stop flights are safest for dogs' safety, otherwise a very brief layover without any change of planes is desired. Some smaller aviation businesses are willing to fly dogs, but it's usually more expensive. Perhaps GreyTalk member "NQ3X" will see and respond to your post. If not, you might consider posting a separate thread in "Everything Else Greyhound" section (for greater visual traffic). Here's a link to the 2012 thread: http://forum.greytalk.com/index.php/topic/285967-air-travel-input/?hl=%2Btravel+%2Binput Good luck, and please let us know how it went after you're all settled!

Welcome to GreyTalk! Sorry about your boy's situation. Quote: "He's panting constantly, refusing food, vomited twice (vet says most likely from the antibiotic), nose is making so many puddles everywhere, won't lay still, and refuses to come home after walks. And then refuses to get in the crate. Now, even with the trazodone, he is whining and trying to break out of the crate again. He starting to be self harming again and destructive. He paces, pants, whines, and refuses to eat or come home after walks. When we get in the front door of our unit, he tries to sneak back out around us and runs down the hall. It's so bizarre! He was so comfortable last week until he got bit. I know it's traumatizing, but how do we create the safe space at home again?!" End quote. Actually, this is not too surprising. Hank is likely frightened of being left alone for extended periods again. Any movement against the crate may hurt his surged area. His feelings of abandonment are greatly intensified after his recent traumatic experiences: all-breed dog park bite, emergency hospital and surgery stresses (more new people), ongoing injury pain stresses, possibly not having access to eliminate appropriately often enough during work days, feeling strange on medications, upset tummy from medication/s and/or from not eating meals -- all while still trying to adjust to a completely new world. Stresses can compound and last for extended periods. IMO, Hank needs enough stability to be able to relax, eat meals, and recover from his injury. A dog sitter in your own home could help for the time being. If your vet isn't Greyhound savvy, perhaps consider one who treats more Greyhounds. If combined medications aren't working effectively (without vomiting, to curb his pain, reduce current anxiety, and have an appetite) seems time to reevaluate medications. Also very important to have a back-up food source to ensure he's not being administered pills on an empty stomach. Canned meat dog food is great to give as a separate "meat only" special meal (when recovering dogs refuse kibble). Also, offer him a potty break immediately before (and after) meal times since many dogs refuse to eat if they need to eliminate. Please be careful to ensure his martingale collar is properly fitted (so he can't back out of it with his narrow head),and keep his leash attached and hold him until he's safely inside your own condo with the door closed. Otherwise, he's at risk of flight/escape if anyone unexpectedly opens a hallway exit door. Dogs feeling anxious can benefit from an extra potty break or two shortly before human departures. (BTW, please do not encourage any fanfare during your departures or returns. Your presence should be considered ho-hum/boring during his alone training.) Dogs who are feeling separation anxiety often can't physically hold urine/bowel for lengthy periods of time. (Ignore potty accidents caused by anxiety/fear; praise highly for their eliminations outside.) Some groups require all adopters provide potty outings a minimum of every 4 hours during day/evening for the dogs' health and well-being. Some people who don't work close to home arrange for someone stop in mid-day to provide a dog potty outing. Greysmom's suggestion of finding a certified veterinary behaviorist is excellent. (A licensed veterinarian who specializes in animal behavior.) Good luck, and positive healing thoughts for Hank.

Yes, baby steps during early weeks/months to allow your new Greyhound to adjust to his new home while your family works to earn Alfred's trust. Every animal is an individual with a history. Many dogs will give a warning growl (often after other subtle signs like head turning away, averting eyes, lip licking, yawning, etc.); however, if a dog feels extremely threatened, or was scolded for growling previously, they might be more likely to resort to a bite. Any animal has the potential to bite without a growl first. Depending on a hound's temperament, when I'm working with a newly retired foster from the track, I don't allow children to approach the dog during neighborhood walks/outings. (A lot of children around here too.) Most newly retired hounds have never even taken walks in a neighborhood, or seen other dog breeds, cats, etc. and may not have seen or interacted with children. Better for hounds to simply focus on walking (passing children from a distance) for a while. Treats might help, but some dogs feel too overwhelmed/stressed/anxious to eat treats. (One fearful foster was so scared of children that the hound couldn't even walk past a playground, school or park from across the street. If a child attempted to approach the dog, dog tried to back out of a collar and bolt away (fight or flight reaction). I use a collar + harness for new fosters. Fortunately, most dogs are not nearly that fearful.) Eventually, after Alfred has settled comfortably into his new environment, ask a calm child to stand sideways (facing away from Alfred) without making direct eye contact. Then, from afar, child slowly tosses treats on the ground towards Alfred while Alfred is standing up. Once Alfred begins eating those treats without showing fear, a next step is for child to hold treats in his/her flat, open hand for Alfred to approach the child (vs. child approaching Alfred). Again, child stands sideways and looks away from Alfred's face (non-threatening position in dogs' language). Thereafter, child can briefly pet Alfred's chin, neck or shoulder (in same direction as fur growth) for a few seconds. Then child stops petting, and Alfred gets another treat reward, and Alfred's walk or other fun activity is resumed. Avoid direct front face-to-face positions, reaching overhead, or leaning over dog since those are considered threatening behaviors in dogs' language. Golden rule: Let resting dogs lie undisturbed. Wait for dog to stand up and approach a human for attention. You may find this article helpful: https://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/how-to-greet-a-dog/

A Greyhound specific muzzle would be a helpful safety tool for Dancer to wear when you have visitors. http://www.gemgreyhounds.org/GEM-Store/category/muzzle/ (Greyhounds can still pant and drink water with this type of muzzle.) A large crate (or covered exercise pen) with a thick dog bed set-up in a far corner of the most used family room could provide Dancer a temporary, protected, safe space while feeling part of the family when it's not noisy. (Practice by leaving crate/pen door open for easy access and feed meals in crate so Dancer begins to associate that space as a positive, happy, comfortable space when visitors are not present.) Just like with people, aches, pains, cloudy vision, etc. are common reasons for changing behaviors. Some medications meant to calm dogs result in the opposite affect in individual Greyhounds, making them more sensitive to their environment. If pain is an issue, pain medications can help a lot. Ultimately, if you're unable to provide Dancer a safe, healthy home environment, please do reach out to retired racing Greyhound adoption groups in your area. There WILL be a Greyhound group who will accept and safely rehome Dancer into a sighthound educated family. Here is a complete list of adoption groups in your area: http://www.adopt-a-greyhound.org/directory/list.cfm?usState=pa If needed as a last resort, Greyhound groups outside of your region could help too. Personally, having our eldest 12, 13 and 14 year old Greyhounds, we think in terms of their natural lifespan lasting in days, weeks or months vs. years. Valuing each day as a temporary gift helps us handle their changing needs with loving patience. Our eldest Greyhounds are not as comfortable with many visitors, so we temporarily limit visitors to reduce the hounds' stress level. We know our slight inconvenience won't last long... A 13 year old hound is equivalent to an 82 year old human. A hound's 14th birthday = 88 year old human. Each month thereafter equates to approx. 5 months in human time. Greyhounds reaching 15 (+) are not as common as we'd hope.

Yes, Giardia is not uncommon in new fosters, or other dogs. Dogs get Giardia easily from raw or under-cooked meats, or if allowed to drink water from bird baths, garden fountains, creeks, lakes, rain puddles, even outdoor fresh water bowls that aren't cleaned and changed regularly. A previous dog (different breed) was infected during a weekend vacation while swimming at a beach in a very large, clear lake (since dogs intake water while swimming). Took a long time to treat successfully. One of our adopted hounds arrived with a heavy infestation (horrible smelly diarrhea). Giardia can be difficult to fully eliminate both from the dog and from his/her environment since it can live for weeks/months on ground. We were careful to clean up hound's stools instantly, and scrape up every little bit so it didn't infect the garden soil. Some people carry newspaper or large paper plates to help capture stool messes during walks. We added a thick layer of tumbled playground bark into the hounds' potty yard, so every bit of stool can be removed easily (with playground bark) before it touches dirt. Agree to keep treating per your vet's plan as long as it takes, and repeat fecal tests to confirm successful treatment. Here's a link to Center for Disease Control for Giardia in pets: http://www.cdc.gov/parasites/giardia/prevention-control-pets.html Good luck with Lou.

Yea, welcome home Jake! Seems his veterinary team must have done good work to prepare him for discharge. Positive healing thoughts for his home recovery. Extra hugs to his devoted home care nurse/s!

So relieved to see that Jake's surgery was successful. Just a comment re: ex-pens. Helps to secure the ex-pen since they can collapse if the dog tries to jump or hits the pen's side too hard. Some people wedge ex-pens against walls, low heavy furniture, etc. Some use Bungee cords to gently secure ex-pens. Although we're extremely careful when doing this, for hounds' leg injuries, we use the entire gate panel as the entry/exit to avoid the hound dealing with a narrow gate + step over. That said, using the actual gate is safer to keep the ex-pen properly balanced. Positive healing thoughts for Jake's recovery.

Do you happen to have a close-up photo of that spot before just Brees scratched it raw? IMO, whether my mention of ringworm is on target or if it's something else, I'd still get a culture since it was from a cat's bite/scratch. Too many other possibilities to not culture. I'd consider calling your vet's office early Wed. morning to ask if Lotrimin should be stopped before a culture sample is taken, or if it might be detrimental to Brees lesion if ends up being a different diagnoses. Sorry that Joe has a similar lesion. If it happens to be ringworm, it's not fun and could be worse if combined with infection. Good luck.

Agree about asking your vet for a culture. Ringworm fungus might be a possibility, especially after a cat bite and nail scratch. Until you have her diagnosis, might help to wash your hands after handling Brees' face. (I assume you don't have any new skin irritations on yourself.)

Oh, I'm so very sorry about Bea's passing much too soon. Bea's lovely photo reflects a beautiful, bright, happy girl. In time, I hope happy memories bring some comfort to you, and those who loved her so dearly. May she always remain close in your hearts...

Thank you for this update. We so hope this boy will improve with rehabilitation!

... to GreyTalk! Congratulations on your adoption of handsome Blu! We wish you many happy years together. We hope to see more photos as Blu blossoms into his new forever home.

Probably a combination of Zeppelin's fear, feeling vulnerable and threatened, attempting self-protection, his automatic reaction to being startled awake, not realizing where he was right away, and not recognizing the advancing, potentially threatening scary man. A good thing to do in that situation is stop (the perceived threat) immediately. Then slowly back up or turn slightly sideways from the dog while avoiding direct eye contact. (Direct eye contact is threatening in dog language.) The threatening person should leave the room until the dog feels relaxed, calm and secure. Typically, Greyhounds aren't considered protection or guard dogs but some may become more watchful than others.

I believe this other foster hound will be trying one very soon: http://forum.greytalk.com/index.php/topic/316788-reaction-to-shot/ ETA: Here's the Therapaw link if you'd like to clarify the specific item you have in mind: http://www.therapaw.com/Assistive-Rehabilitative.aspx

That was my recommendation. It can be helpful for certain newly retired hounds whose anxiety can be eased by the sight of another Greyhound. I'm careful to recommend that the mirror be safely secured at floor level across (room) from crate, but not placed where it might reflect direct sun (direct sun is dangerous to a crated dog: overheating/hyperthermia, solar cancer, etc.). OP: It's an excellent sign that your hound is chewing/working the Kong now. The act of chewing (a dog-safe Kong) relieves stress/anxiety, and helps create a calming affect. Looking forward to reading about your girl's behavior when Prozac is used as the sole drug for training, without Xanax. (Xanax can have the opposite of desired affect on some hounds, including panting and shaking. Xanax worsened our hound's severe separation anxiety.) I assume your hound's Prozac is administered early enough (before your daily departure) to be effective during your (calm) pre-departure/departure routine. Just to echo Greysmom's posts that pre-departure desensitization, and alone training is extremely important to practice daily while a hound is temporarily on medication. It helps to keep a consistent daily schedule routine, routine, routine. No fanfare from human during departures or returns. Good to ignore her for at least 30 seconds (after she's quiet) before quietly opening her crate door to let her out for a potty break. In addition to alone training, it helps to encourage her self-confidence by activating her cerebral brain: teaching obedience cues with a clicker tool (when clicker is timed very carefully to mark targeted action). Capturing and rewarding Greyhounds' natural behaviors work best. Several good cues to capture/teach are "down", "wait" (before offering food bowl or going through doors), "come", "heel" (dog's shoulder next to your leg during leashed walks), "go to place" or "bed" (e.g., direct dog to her "place" while you're cooking, or getting ready for school). Puzzles or nose work (scents in cardboard boxes hidden around room/s, or treats covered by empty cups) activates a dog's brain too.

Many other possibilities too. Could be parasites (e.g. nasal mites, worms), viral, bacterial, fungal, respiratory infection, foxtails, etc. I don't know your region or the region in which your recently laid straw was grown, but foxtails are worth knowing about since they can be deadly to pets: http://www.acadiavetclinic.com/news/foxtail-gras/

As long as you're using a gentle, positive teaching method for hound to wait at door to let human pass through first, that's an excellent important and useful safety measure. Of course, hound should always be leashed unless open door leads to a fully fenced yard since racing Greyhounds are accustomed to bolting out of racing box doors at tracks, departing quickly out of kennel crates or vehicle haulers when door opens, etc. IME, Greyhounds learn more easily when their own natural action is captured and given a verbal cue, then reward/happy praise. "Down" is easiest cue for Greyhounds to learn (and for their humans to capture in mid-action). "Wait" can be practiced naturally before placing meal bowl onto their feeding stand, etc. Following snippet is one of my previous posts re: this topic: (Greyhound Jasper had already been through a prison program.) Quote: "Jasper might be more protective of his personal space because of previous training methods used. Also, some hounds that go through prison programs appear to lose their training in new environments with new people. Possibly from feeling overwhelmed by too many life changes too soon. They shut down from stress overload. You're right to avoid any physical force in training. Many dogs will bite if physically forced, and/or will lose trust in humans. Best to set Jasper up for success by watching for him to do things naturally. Capture desired action and teach the command word + immediate yummy meat treat with praise (special toy with praise, or whatever). It's easy with "down" and "stay". "Come" and "wait" are easy to practice at meal times (best when hound is hungry and eager). I use the word "release" to release dogs from a command exercise. Be clear using Jasper's name when calling him and keep command words clear: "Jasper come". If needed, use a leash to happily guide him when working on "come" to ensure he comes upon hearing the first "come". (Don't repeat a command multiple times before dog moves. That teaches dogs they can take their sweet time or come only if they feel like it; not good in an emergency.) Please be careful to not overwhelm him with training. I'd suggest waiting to teach sit until after you have more time to build Jasper's trust in you. It's not an important command for Greyhounds, and many hounds should not ever be expected to sit. That said, below is my post about teaching "sit" for hounds who don't easily respond to the treat-over-head method, or rising up from a down position: "I recommend not teaching sit to any hound who has any rear leg or spinal injury/discomfort. A straight sit is not a comfortable position even for physically healthy Greyhounds, and I don't expect them to stay in a sit for any extended length of time. (Greys are built for running or lying down, but not extended straight sitting like other dogs.) I don't sweat between a side sit or a straight sit. The Greyhound's physical comfort is most important. Keep sessions short (under 3-5 mintes), fun and happy. If frustration begins, stop immediately. Try again later or the next day. Method below is highly effective once hound trusts their human: Watch for hound to walk towards their bed (or carpet) to lie down naturally. Get ready with treat in hand, and quickly move closer to the hound. When hound's rear end touches ground/bed, calmly move over to stand in front of hound to block hound into a natural sit while preventing dog from lying down. Immediately say "sit" + treat, and praise, praise, praise. Practice periodically when the dog goes to lie down naturally, and the hound will learn "sit". A clicker can be used if you want to "click" immediately and treat when the hound's rear end touches the ground (or dog bed), but just treating with food works fine in most cases." End quote. Full thread: http://forum.greytalk.com/index.php/topic/308895-teaching-the-basics-fast/?p=5735329

I'd suggest asking vet at least one week in advance for a 5-day prescription for aminocaproic acid (reduces bleeding). Then begin dosing on the morning of surgery, or the day before surgery and the following 4 days. Costco pharmacy is usually well priced for tablets, or you can get a beef flavored liquid form from a compounding pharmacy.

Mobile vets can be great for a minor visit, but a mobile vet for a surgery requiring anesthesia would be ill-advised, IMO. I would not consider it for our own Greyhounds. Unexpected complications could require a full service veterinary hospital with a staffed recovery room with veterinarians and nurses on site throughout the entire recovery. Urgent complications during recovery won't wait for a veterinarian to drive back to a site, and some post-surgical complications may not be noticed by a non-medical professional. Additionally, animals coming out of anesthesia can be highly reactive and should be cared for only by professional veterinary nurses and vets. (Our vet refuses to allow non-veterinary medical people to sit with animals during post-surgery recovery.) Also, Greyhounds' body temperature should be monitored very closely both during surgery and through hospital recovery. I wouldn't imagine the operating room would be a very sterile environment in a motor home either.

You might ask the vet about using either of the products below: Therapaw boots fit Greyhound paws well, and are much better than having no thick padded protection while walking outside. http://www.therapaw....a-pawboots.aspx Therapaws also makes a dorsi-flex assist to help keep paws in an upright position: http://www.therapaw....exassist-1.aspx

Glad you posted a photo. It might still be a bit sore, but from what I can see appears very well into the healing process. I wouldn't worry about it. I would not be concerned about a vet seeing it at this stage, unless it begins bleeding badly, or begins looking very red/infected, or if Rory becomes obsessed with it.

Interesting topic. We traveled a lot during the earlier years when we only had three hounds. Each hound traveled with their own gear (folding crates, ex-pens, etc.) All three hounds traveled very well, but when our male turned about 8-9 years old, he clearly became more of a homebody. He still enjoyed day adventures, car rides, and walks in new places, but no more extended weekend Greyhound events, or other multi-overnight vacation travels. He was always one to stand up no matter how long Meet and Greets lasted. He required an extra thick orthopedic dog bed during hotel stays, and restaurant outings. He taught his vets that a thick dog bed is a **must** during veterinary hospital stays (a towel, blanket, or comforter is not considered a decent hospital bed for Greyhounds).

Glad she's looking and feeling better. I was hoping you'd check her gum color periodically. Relieved that's better. The bones are a little red flag since there have been news reports of too many mean people leaving bad things for dogs around our region. Continued healing thoughts for Violet (and that it's not an abscess, inner lip critter bite, etc.).

... to GreyTalk! Congratulations on your adoption of handsome Woody! We'll look forward to seeing more pictures as he settles in to his new home.