3greytjoys

Beautiful!

Consider baby-gating him in your bedroom at night to reduce his free-roaming space. Hopefully, you'll be more likely to awaken if he begins walking around in need of a potty outing. If he's getting enough outings (e.g. at least 4-5 outings: every 4-5 hours throughout the daytime and evening), and is fully eliminating (without holding back a reserve in his tank for marking on walks), I echo above suggestions for a vet check for UTI, and please do not remove water.

Several of our Greyhounds started having physical limitations on the main staircase (fully carpeted) after they reached double-digit ages, especially 12+. No obvious spinal or shoulder problems were detected by our vets, but the hounds certainly felt their own discomfort, perhaps from worsening arthritis, vision changes, etc. One hound began to hesitate on curbs during leashed walks and on 1 or 2 steps. Another hound eventually stopped on the landing, couldn't move for an extended time, and never went up or down stairs again. Several hounds lived comfortably into their mid-teens (up to 15.6) on the carpeted main level (supervised). If hounds are sleeping away from their humans, teaching a hound to ring a bell on the door when s/he needs to eliminate will help them communicate their overnight needs to avoid accidents. (None of our teenage hounds had dementia.) Best of luck with Sweep. If her hesitation is medical/physical, I'd trust that she knows her body. The extra lights and brightly colored painters' tape is helpful either way, since many elder hounds' sight declines with age.

My favorite is the Oster equine finishing brush: soft, long bristles, nicely shaped grip design, large enough to brush Greyhound bodies quickly. https://www.equestriancollections.com/horse-healthcare/horse-grooming-supplies/curry-combs-brushes/oster-soft-finishing-brush Equine flexible rubber curry combs work during major shedding times but my favorite year round is the finishing brush.

Another good option: Greyhound Spook harness, by Majestic collars. http://www.majesticcollars.com/harness.htm Webmaster harness, by Ruffwear, is excellent for sighthounds, but might get too warm in FL summers. https://ruffwear.com/products/web-master-harness

Try to create an additional barrier to keep your new hound from having direct access to that room's closed door. Example: extra tall baby gates usually work well as dividers (unless hound is a jumper and is extremely highly prey driven). If possible, don't let your new hound have access to the whole house this soon. Helps if hound's bed or crate is placed in the most used room with humans during the day, and then hound spends nights on her dog bed in the human's bedroom. If you have a dog crate, your hound could go inside temporarily to settle down until it's time for a walk, potty outing, or meal. It could take a while for her to settle. The action of dogs' chewing acts a stress reliever, so a dog-safe chew (while supervised) could help distract her. Try to keep her distracted with games or whatever you can to reduce her fixation on your GP's room. Please don't hesitate to contact your adoption group for additional help if needed. Good luck.

So glad to read that Nilla is improving. Continued positive thoughts for Nilla, and now Chocko. Having nursed multiple geriatric Greyhounds into their mid-teens, it's remarkable how well they can pull through some medical set-backs and recover with appropriate veterinary care and quality home care. If Nilla's traffic paths are hard surface flooring, please consider adding cheap runner rugs (with safe, rubber, rug-gripper mats placed underneath) for improved traction/mobility. If needed, a Help Em Up harness could be very helpful when assisting a hound during potty outings. https://helpemup.com/ Thank you for keeping us updated. Hopeful thoughts for Nilla, Chocko, and family.

Our hounds sleep longer when the bedroom is very dark, but they don't sleep in a separate room by themselves. Perhaps he'd benefit from a little more exercise or mind stimulation games during the day at home. Cloudy aging of the eyes or cataracts could cause significant loss of sight over time, but it's good that you don't think he's there yet. BTW, your questions might be seen by more readers if you post a new thread. If you post two more times somewhere on GT (Cute & Funny section doesn't count), you'll be able to private message Smurfette. You just need 50 posts to private message.

Depends on your veterinarian's diagnosis. Certain blinding eye conditions (like pannus) can be caught early and slowed or halted with veterinary prescribed medication. If a condition is untreatable, human acts as seeing eye guide to help dog navigate as vision deteriorates. Blind dogs can live a happy life and still take leashed walks while enjoying their other heightened senses (like smelling pee-mail along the way). Ensure dog's home traffic pathways are always kept clear of items, shopping bags, boxes, etc. and are very brightly lit in house and especially the route exiting house and along outdoor pathways. Might eventually require leashed potty outings even within a fenced yard, but they can feel different footing materials on paw pads (like grass vs. sand or pebbles). Watch dog carefully when stepping on/off street curbs. Dog may hold head lower to ground in an attempt to see their walking path. Blind dogs can get along fairly well inside their own home if without any changes like furniture rearranging, etc. Imagine keeping your eyes closed while navigating without arms in complete darkness. Take extra safety precautions by leash guiding dog on staircases, and block off staircases with a secure baby-gate (or whatever) to prevent unsupervised dog from falling down stairs. Use ramp with side guard railings wherever possible if covering just a few steps at home, and guide along a ramp when getting in/out of car. Remember to look up side effects for any/all medications dog is taking. Drug side effects are a common cause of behavior changes. Senior Greyhounds really need securely carpeted floors, whether large area rugs, cheap runner rugs with rubber gripper mats underneath, or indoor/outdoor runners (found in cut-to-order rolls at home center stores). Anything other than hard surfaces like wood, tile, etc. Reduced hearing sometimes happens in elder dogs too. If you don't already, try giving him a light snack at bedtime in case he's getting hungry earlier. Many people give about 1/3 cup of kibble (reduced from dinner portion to prevent weight gain).

Just a thought, Chocolatehunny: Some of what you described is seen in hounds that are losing their eyesight.

Recall is for specific canned dog foods with excessive vitamin D. FDA: https://www.fda.gov/Safety/Recalls/ucm630232.htm Hill's: https://www.hillspet.com/productlist?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm9CwrZah4AIV2brACh112AChEAAYASAAEgLYvPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks for your answers. Good suggestions posted above. A few more things to try if you haven't already: Baby-gate your most used room during your awake hours to encourage hound to feel comfortable in that room while you briefly retrieve mail, go to the restroom, take trash outside, etc. Secure a decent size mirror at floor level (out of direct sun), directly across room from hound's favorite resting place, so hound can see her reflection. (Provides an illusion of having another Greyhound in the room.) A live confident, middle age hound might help her feel less abandoned during your absences, if desired and is affordable for you. Nylabone shape like this: https://www.amazon.com/Nylabone-Power-DuraChew-Bacon-X-Large/dp/B000GQ80TQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1549183277&sr=1-4&keywords=nylabone+bacon+flavor Chewing is a calming behavior for dogs. Initially, she might take a stronger interest in gnawing it while you're both relaxing at home together. If needed for enticement, smear it with a little peanut butter (no additives/no xylitol). Consider safe Tuffy toys: https://tuffietoys.com/collections/medium-tuffy-toys/products/ultimate-ring After providing her with safe dog toys, perhaps consider removing your old shoes, which could be mistaken for new shoes someday (confusing for dogs). I didn't see a Prozac dosage mentioned or how long your hound was on it, but Greyhounds are sensitive to medications, and typically start at a low dose of Prozac. Sighthound savvy vets usually increase dose very gradually over many weeks. Prozac requires a gradual weaning down period (determined by vet), otherwise an abrupt halt of medication can cause serious withdrawal symptoms (including some leading to death). There is a washout period of Prozac before safely trying a different drug. Trazadone is a fast-acting drug that could be administered on days of departures, which might help in your hound's case since you're retired and may not need to leave the house every day. Separation anxiety can worsen if a dog is alone too long, too soon i.e., dog's anxiety level rises above their "comfort threshold". Dog's first comfortable alone session might only last 30 seconds with human out of sight while leaving dog to work on a yummy stuffed Kong. Human returns and immediately picks up Kong. Every time human leaves dog during alone training, special departure Kong is provided but only while human is out of sight. Human returns before dog begins to show anxiety. Kong is picked up and refrigerated or washed and dried thoroughly for next sessions. Another common problem: Separation anxiety worsens and deepening fear intensifies tenfold+ if dog is scolded for any behaviors resulting from fear. Dogs can't help their natural physical reactions like losing urine or stool while dog is feeling highly stressed from fear, which often occurs within the first 30 minutes of human's departure. Upon human's return, simply ignore dog and quietly clean up any mess. Otherwise, if catching dog in the action: quietly and respectfully redirect dog to appropriate behavior i.e., gently guide dog to outside potty area, or provide dog's own chew toy if caught chewing a non-dog safe item. Helps to let SA dogs eliminate at least 3 times during 60-90 minutes before a real departure. Last elimination 5-10 minutes before human departs. Try to move trash can into a cabinet, or out of her reach, or find a barrier to keep her away from it. No fanfare prior to departure or immediately upon your return. Just quietly let her out to potty upon your return. Fine to give her attention after about 3-5 minutes when she's calm. She probably still associates that dog bed with her first bad experience in the crate. Laundering it again and placing it in a more welcoming location with a blanket over it, and happily tossing yummy treats on it for her to gather at her leisure should help build a positive association. I agree with getting book: "I'll Be Home Soon". Meanwhile, please read this link of SA information: https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/dog-care/common-dog-behavior-issues/separation-anxiety

Thanks for asking. More information is needed on which to base answers: How long have you had your hound? Have you seen her behavior around other Greyhounds (play dates, walks, reunions, etc.)? How many humans in her family? When did she retire from the track? Are you her first owner in retirement? Was she fostered with other Greyhounds before adoption? How long have you been alone training? How long on Prozac? Are you still alone training while she's on Prozac? How long is she left alone at a time? What is she doing when left alone? Are you living in an apartment or house? I don't think you would, but please don't listen to anyone who suggests putting her down for separation anxiety!! Separation anxiety is simply behavior based from fear. Often from being removed from a dog's previous life/familiar people, then dropped into a completely different environment. There are other options to help her adjust to retirement.

Since you already have a dog walker to provide mid-day eliminations, I'd agree with a confident, independent, middle-aged Greyhound as a home and walking companion. I understand your girl doesn't have separation anxiety; however, it appears that our hounds, fosters, and solo Greyhound visitors greatly benefit from having a Greyhound friend around, even if they don't "play" together. (I've only pet sat two Greyhounds who needed to stay in their own single dog households.) One of our Greyhounds had human targeted (only) separation anxiety, but suffered emotionally after our other hounds passed away. Previously, that hound didn't appear to need other hounds, but was benefiting from important companionship while living together. Most importantly, humans in the family need to want (and afford) the second dog, and have typical evening and weekend time to enrich their hounds' lives.

Not sure how often was she urinating before her dental, but seems it could be many things. Dental surgery dislodges a lot of bacteria, so vets often send dogs home with antibiotics. Dogs of any age often need to urinate more during the day due to environmental changes, stress, anxiety, etc. Pain, illness or infection might affect hound's overnight needs depending on timing of food/water intake. Perhaps email update clear photos of your hound's teeth and gums to your vet to ensure continued normal recovery. Dogs are given a lot of fluids during surgery that's eliminated during recovery for a couple days, but weeks later seems excessive. Hopefully others can offer more help.

Oh, what we learn on GT! You all are the best!! So understanding having had 16 paws x 7 outings per day. I feel for everyone affected in the snow and polar vortex region. If anyone duplicates the Boxer in Mom2four's post, please remember to remove them immediately upon returning to the house to prevent reduced/blocked blood flow to the paws.

Thera-paw boots are great to have available for Greyhounds' paw protection during injury recoveries, and/or to use as periodic injury prevention. https://www.therapaw.com/therapawboot Agree with above post. Likely completely different to Stanley whose wound seems to be on the side of his paw. One of our hounds stepped on tiny pieces of gravel that dug into a paw pad more deeply with each step while on a hike. Took two surgeries to get it all out, but he never stopped limping for months between those two surgeries. Other times, he occasionally ripped claws while making turns during runs, but those took much longer than 2 weeks to heal. Seems paw pads can take a long time to fully heal, even without the added extreme pressure of running.

What a nice memorial of your handsome boy!

Welcome to GreyTalk. Congratulations on your newly adopted Greyhound! He's probably still very confused by all his recent changes. Great sign that your Greyhound is trying to ignore your cats. I agree with Ellen to minimize cat contact while your hound is adjusting to his new forever home. If possible, give your cats their own private space in other rooms for a while now, and later whenever you're not home to supervise. A tall baby-gate in the family's most used room would be helpful to keep dog in while providing an escape route for your cats, later. Installing the baby-gate about 5" above floor level allows cats space to dart underneath if dog ever tries to chase cats. (Don't allow any chasing.) (Don't install gate much higher than 5" or 6" to avoid dog from trying to squeeze underneath.) Be especially careful to keep the more affectionate cat away from the new dog's personal space, and food bowl. I, too, have found that exchanging pets' scents on towels or bedding items is helpful. I exchange scented items every couple of days to keep scents strong.

Good question re: hearing. Few more thoughts: While caring for multiple teenage Greyhounds in recent years, I've been staying on a sofa so all our eldest hounds could avoid stairs to bedrooms, etc. Aside from arthritis, another common thread is declining eyesight (similar to people with cataracts). Night vision has been affected first. As typical for elder dogs, walks are shorter and slower. When night vision declines, dogs may look more closely at the ground while in motion and/or may hesitate if remembering or expecting a curb or step. They're a lot more hesitant to walk around at night even in their own yard, and they often point themselves towards a wall or corner instead of a door, etc. If a hound is unable to ingest enough dog food during day, hound may whine more at night if hungry. If dental issues are a concern, kibble appetite may appear to be reduced (due to gum pain and/or medications that lessen appetite), but if given enough canned dog food (e.g., 5 plus cans daily depending on calories per meal for that hound's most healthy weight), hound may eagerly gobble up soft canned food.

Thank you for loving your boy and for your effort to work with him. He's still newly retired and has great potential. I agree that Zoloft's side effects might be causing your boy's worsening behavior/agitation. (If I recall correctly, Xanax had the opposite of intended affect on my S.A. hound, which made her extremely highly anxious.) If you try adding a foster or "foster with intent" hound so your boy has a buddy, your experienced adoption group will be most important in helping select the most appropriate second hound. I don't recall reading your current hound's age, but assuming he's youngish (age 2-4), I'd try to pair you with a proven independent and confident semi-middle age hound. Some mature hounds walk in the door and quietly act as if they've lived there forever. Every hound has their own personality, but 99.9% are fabulous once they adjust to their new home/family. BTW, re: your reply about your boy barking at his mirrored reflection is very common with new hounds. Many hounds initially bark at their reflection, even trying to entice play until they realize it won't happen. One of our hounds kept seeing herself in the bathroom mirror, and would run down the hall looking through other rooms for her cute new friend! (She had three real hound friends downstairs.)

Per MaryJane's mention of Dr. Couto; here is his link: http://www.coutovetconsultants.com/ Dr. Couto is highly experienced in Greyhound medicine. Recently retired from Ohio State; and still offers e-consultations. If you're planning to obtain more tests, he will need all current e-records and test results. Glad you're moving forward with your local vet and internal medicine specialist. Having been through two similar situations with two different dogs, addressing a hound's condition in a timely manner is extremely important. Due to early misdiagnosis, unhelpful medications, etc., one of our hounds dropped to 50% body weight (skin and bones!) and was not able to recover. The other dog was diagnosed at age two. After nearly losing her, she eventually recovered and lived 12 more years on a novelty single protein kibble. She could not tolerate any other foods or treats. Here is a fecal chart that may be helpful when communicating updates with your vets: https://www.proplanveterinarydiets.ca/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/PPPVD-Fecal-Scoring-Chart-EN-FINAL.pdf

General fecal test for worms; and now important to also have a comprehensive fecal diarrhea panel. (The comprehensive diarrhea panel can reveal more serious underlying conditions, but doesn't include worm testing; therefore, both fecal tests would be needed.) If the comprehensive fecal is positive for dangerous bacteria, get a separate susceptibility test (sensitivity test) to determine the most effective antibiotic against that bacterial strain. (There are many more drug resistant bacteria strains these days.) Many Greyhounds don't do well on prednisone and may have difficulty recovering from prednisone's harsh effects on the body, including weight loss, suppression of immune system, and suppression of adrenal glands (potentially permanent), but it cannot be stopped abruptly. Prednisone dosage must be tapered down slowly before stopping. Internal medicine specialists are most valuable because their expertise is much more in depth than a general vet. Tests provide necessary information. If cheaper, a general vet can order tests, then share results with a specialist. Greyhounds can decline very quickly with incorrect treatments. (Sadly, IBD was an original incorrect guess for our hound's diagnosis.)

The first three stool eliminations are fairly typical for a large, healthy dog on many typical kibble varieties. Different dog foods definitely create more or less stool: the cheaper foods have more fillers = larger volumes of stool to eliminate. Urinating often during walks is common, especially with males who like to mark their territory. It's important for him to completely empty urine from his kidneys, especially if he's left alone for a while during the mornings. Hounds who have fenced yards at home tend to urinate more fully in one or two eliminations since there is less desire to mark territory (leaving pee-mail for other dogs). I assume your hound was given a fecal test to ensure he is free of parasites/worms? If not, a fecal test is recommended. Racers are used to awakening early in the mornings. Try setting an alarm clock for the time he awakens, then slowly set the alarm 5-10 minutes later every couple of days until he begins to adjust to your schedule.

What type of flooring is inside at the doorway? Is it well lit so she can see clearly at night? If hard surface floors, it helps a lot to place cheap runner rugs (and/or area rugs) on her indoor pathways, so she'll feel more secure walking inside her home. Also very important to place rubber rug gripper mats underneath the rugs to ensure rugs won't slide out from under her. (Many Greyhounds have had very serious slips/falls on hard floors.) Are their any stairs near the doorway that might be making her nervous (assuming she's newly learning stairs)? High value meat treats could begin to help more if you're able to gain her trust indoors first by gently tossing treats near her from afar (human turns own eyes and body away to help her feel less nervous). Eventually, she may accept treats from your hand. Thereafter, you could play hide and seek games inside (on securely carpeted floors) while practicing calling her "name + come" recall. Human hides, then hound seeks person. (Humans should not run/chase after a dog, even in indoor play. If hound were ever to accidentally escape, a hound's parent needs hound to come towards them vs.running away from their human.) Humans = good things. If you leash her for potty outings at night (or when pressed for time), connecting two leashes (to extend length), plus turning your body away from her may help her feel a little more privacy to freely eliminate in your yard. Good luck.