3greytjoys

We use large crates, and/or tallest metal exercise pens for our Greyhounds depending on travel destination needs. Ex-pens offer more room for fully supervised hounds, but crates are more secure. Attachable water containers are available for either style. When folded for transport, either style slides sideways behind the front car seats. When we're buying ex-pens, we prefer the tallest 48" pens since our hounds are less likely to jump out. Ex-pens should be very well-secured and staked to the ground, otherwise ex-pens can collapse onto dogs. Ex-pens are versatile: when not traveling, we use them to form a U-shape safety zone around house doors or fence gates leading to non-fenced areas, or open them up and add fence posts to create a smaller dog yard within a larger fenced yard. Ex-pens are useful inside as a post-surgery recovery space also. http://www.midwestpetproducts.com/midwestexercisepens/midwest-548-48-gold-zinc-exercise-pen-with-door-eight-48-inch-high-x-24-inch-wide-panels If staying in a vacation home, it's safest to have a human stay with dog/s, but if a brief departure is unavoidable, a fully enclosed crate is usually safer. Even calm hounds have a stronger potential for panicking in a strange vacation home if their humans leave dogs' sight. I would not recommend anything soft-sided because many dogs will chew through the material and escape.

Oh how very sad; 44 is too young. My deepest sympathy to you, and her other friends and family who are missing her. Glad her hounds are in good care, they're probably deeply grieving her loss.

Many excellent suggestions so far. Just curious if you've tried taking her outside strictly to eliminate after she awakens from her initial couple of hours of being quiet? Being a young 1 year old in a new environment, eating different food, being away from Greyhounds for the first time in life, she's likely to need to eliminate more often now. Also, assuming she had a veterinary exam before adoption to ensure she's clear of parasites or UTI. Feeding all full meals inside the crate helps a lot. As mentioned, a very thick dog bed helps thin-skinned Greyhounds settle in their crate (ensure she doesn't chew/ingest bedding). Encouraging her to rest in her open-door crate periodically while the family is active in the same room also. More exercise could be helpful to tire her well enough to sleep overnight, but I would not use a lure pole since you have cats. (Lure poles encourage prey drive.) I'm curious about her reaction to your cats. Feel free to elaborate, if needed. Hopefully, she's muzzled (with a Greyhound turn-out muzzle that allows panting and drinking water), and under close supervision when there is any chance of her having access to the cats. Greyhounds are faster than humans or cats. Our cats appreciate baby-gates installed 5"-6" above floor level as a wide escape route. I agree with Amber about not using punishment collars. Good luck, and please keep in touch for additional suggestions.

Yes. multiple dog beds are a great thing! Costco sells large, cushy dog beds for $28.99. Two dog beds for 1 hound would be helpful. (We happen to have 7 dog beds in the family room for up to 5 dogs. 14 beds throughout the house.) Prevention is key. Please do not do anything that knowingly triggers a dog to growl, snap or bite. The most important thing is keep yourself safe, and not do anything that your dog perceives as threatening. These are primary reasons to happily and freely call the dog off the furniture (preferably into another room) for high-value food/treats, toy, fun game, or walk reward. You are keeping yourself safe by remaining at a safe distance away, and rewarding the dog for coming to you in response to your happy call. If your dog doesn't respond to your call willingly, as mentioned drop treats on the floor several feet away from the sofa so the dog sees the treats. The action of moving "off" the sofa is the rewarded behavior. (You are not sitting on the sofa feeding treats while the dog is still lying on the sofa -- that would be reinforcing undesirable behavior of dog staying on sofa.) If she refuses to move off the sofa when called, unemotionally leave the room until she moves off willingly (she may try to follow you just to see what you're doing). Thereafter, do a better job of preventing her access to the sofa. Many dogs will bite if they feel confronted, threatened, frightened if a human tries to get close enough to place any type of leash on the dog in a guarding situation. Most bites are based from dogs' fear as self-defense and/or underlying stress anxiety (stress that could be building silently over an extended period of time). Another important key in this situation is human + dog + environmental management. Now, you've succeeded by setting-up a thick, comfortable dog bed in your most used family room so your dog still feels included as part of the family. Next step (if needed) would be to block off dog's access to the sofa, either by empty boxes, temporary free-standing make-shift gate -- large flat piece of cardboard, etc. Last resort, If needed on the sofa itself, you could place an uncomfortable object on the sofa like an upside down chair mat (pointy side up), etc. Whatever you use, just ensure it won't fall off or harm the dog. Most dogs won't want to lie down on an uncomfortable surface. These barriers are temporary only until the dog develops a solid habit of resting on her own dog bed. There is no punishment because confrontation, dominance, or aggression by a human begets confrontational, dominant, aggressive REactions from animals. If a dog doesn't react to negative confrontation with an immediate growl or bite, it still deeply stresses the dog emotionally and often resurfaces later -- whether with reduced bite inhibition, increased existing negative behaviors, new negative behaviors, increased distrust in humans, increased fear, and increased anxiety, etc. Dogs do remember the way they are treated, and dominance methods change dogs' temperaments in magnified negative ways. Most sadly, even today some TV personalities and others perpetuate old school methods of dominance/aversive training used since long before the 1950's. Fortunately, concerned, well-educated dog trainers began teaching positive, reward-based (non-aversive) methods in the 1980's after much scientific research proved the wide-spread damage dominance training had on animals, and their relationships with humans. A good way to teach is thinking in terms of your dog as a respected, young canine partner. Consistently and happily capture and reward your dog's natural good behaviors. "Learn to earn" exercises would be helpful in teaching impulse-control, and helps build a good foundation between human and dog. (e.g., teach your dog to stand and "wait" (or lie down) for a moment before human places the meal in the dog's raised feeder; "wait" before going through an open door, etc. Greyhounds are a highly sensitive breed that respond much better to respectful, kind, calm, positive, reward-based (non-forceful) methods of communication. Thank you for your willingness to inquire about how to handle your situation. Obviously, these suggestions are made without us seeing your dog in person, so a local positive-method certified behaviorist would be recommended. (NeylasMom offered referral assistance if needed.)

How is Teddy doing? I hope he's been improving.

This is a great one. Teaching two directions can also be used as a shaping behavior for other cues later. Our hounds respond with such delight and heads held high when responding to "heel left" vs. "heel right" during leashed walks. (In our case of walking multiple hounds, it provides the entire group a useful clear indication whenever making a turn.)

Many extremely important points highlighted in quotes above. Try to think proactively by setting-up your dog's home environment for success, including her safe, undisturbed personal resting spaces. When a dog is resource guarding something (like a human's bed, sofa, or dangerous bone, etc.), try to redirect dog to something different by offering a delicious higher value "trade-up" food that the dog can eat safely without it being taken away -- either by tossing on floor where dog can see it, or running into another room happily calling dog to follow you for a super special treat. A safe toy works well for some dogs, or if dog loves walks, ask dog to "go for a walk" in a happy voice (and follow-through immediately with a real leashed walk). I agree with others. Please do not use any punishment based (or dominating methods); especially not on a growling dog who is trying to communicate their personal discomfort the only way they know how. Negative based methods have been scientifically proven to cause and/or increase dogs' aggression and distrust in humans. Try to consider a growl as a "gift" of a caution/warning. If the cause of the dog's perceived human threatening behavior continues (meaning human doesn't back off immediately) it forces the dog to escalate his/her communication severity to get his/her point across (potential snap or bite). Below is one of my responses from another GT thread re: biting: Many adoption groups discourage allowing dogs on human furniture, especially during the first year or longer while settling into a new home. Some dogs should never be allowed on human furniture due to sleep startle, canine space needs, etc. We usually give hounds affection for a couple of minutes (of their time choice) whenever they are standing up and approach us seeking attention, but we don't disturb them while they're resting on their beds for excessive petting. We abide by the common guideline for dogs to "let resting dogs lie undisturbed". Whether awake or asleep, their beds are considered their undisturbed "doggie safe zone". (Same reason we don't trim nails or brush teeth while they're lying on their beds.) When dogs know they can feel completely safe on their own beds, it helps them develop a more trusting foundation with their humans and helps them feel safe and relaxed in their home environment. Racing Greyhounds weren't reared in family homes and most are not used to being showered with excessively close attention. They were left undisturbed inside their racing kennel crates to rest and eat meals They are accustomed to having their own personal space and resources. It takes time and positive experiences for them to understand, trust, and adjust to their new family life. Any dogs can feel threatened by direct eye contact, or reaching overhead for petting, etc. Safer to approach from the side and pet their shoulder so they don't feel cornered/trapped from the front. Below are some important warning signals that dogs often show as their discomfort to stimuli increases. If you see any of these canine body language behaviors, please ensure petting or whatever is causing the dog to feel discomfort ceases immediately. Any person should calmly back away from the dog. (This quick list is off the top of my head so isn't complete.) - Yawning (early sign of discomfort when dog is not tired) - Quick lip lick (early sign of discomfort) - Turns head away from person (early sign of discomfort) - Dog may watch with peripheral vision if dog appears to be looking away with head turned. - Whale eye (you may see the whites of the dog's eye) - Lips: a dog about to bite often forms a "C" at the mouth's inner corners with forward, tense lips and muzzle with whiskers forward. - Frozen/hardened eye stare with dialated pupils. - Brief tense body freeze (just before launching forward to bite). - Body's center of gravity in a forward position (potentially preparing for action). Please see this excellent excerpt about racing Greyhounds previous life experience: What Greyhounds are Thinking: http://www.northerng...ghtsOfAGrey.php End quote.

Considering your current bowel quantity concern, unless your vet recommended extra canned dog food and green beans, perhaps try cutting those two items out (as an experiment). Adding water will reduce risk of choking on dry kibble, and helps ensure he's properly hydrated. Assuming it's one of Natural Balance's foods, that is a good quality food. If your boy is healthy, has a good appetite, and well-formed stools, seems it's agreeing with his system. Completely changing foods might upset his system. (If you end up changing kibble later, transition very gradually over 3-4 weeks.) How does his body weight appear? (Healthy pet weight is to see the last two ribs, and hip points.) An important factor here with multiple hounds is our 14" long dog waste bags. Nothing shorter will do. Thankfully, our hounds have multiple healthy poops per day.

Just a guess: might be ringworm (which is not a worm, but is fungal). It's usually a little more red than the color in your photo, but perhaps the first round of treatment might have begun a little healing(?). If it is ringworm, I don't believe it will go away on it's own without medication. A culture could help ensure appropriate treatment.

You may or may not be interested in these suggestions: PetSTEP Ramp: We love the wonderfully secure rubber traction design on this ramp, especially when it rains or snows. It folds easily and rests behind the front car seats. Could it be longer or wider(?)... Definitely, but the secure footing was worth it to us. (It's too short for trucks or large SUV's.) We got the lighter color so elder dogs can see it more easily. Reflective strips could be added along the sides if needed for easier visibility in snow. http://www.petstep.com/index.htm I think it's important to teach hounds to walk on any ramp on floor level first, then up one step, then up two steps, etc. until they graduate to the car height. We practiced for a week or longer by placing the ramp inside on a brightly lit, narrow walkway leading out to their potty area. Of course, any elder dog needs to be closely escorted on any car ramp. Our teenage hounds still use this car ramp. Assistance Harnesses: We have the neoprene "Walkabelly" which works well for our females, but I'm planning to order one of their other styles for elder boys for stair assistance. http://www.walkaboutharnesses.com/collections/walkabout-harnesses

Xengab, you may already be doing this, but when practicing longer "down" durations, try offering multiple treat rewards rapidly to help him hold the position, then slow the timing of the treat rewards. Try to "release" him before he moves out of position. If he jumps up, calmly start over and release him quickly so he succeeds, Next repeat, try holding a treat slightly above his head and lowering it to his mouth for him to eat. If he jumps up, withhold the reward. Calmly ask him to do another "down" and end on a positive note. Keep training sessions short <5-10 minutes. Fortunately, your hound appears to be young, happy-go-lucky and tolerant of human's close physical behavior. Good idea to watch any dog for their stressful calming signals so you'll have an idea when he might prefer more space. (Yawning, quick lip licks, looking away from a human, whale eye -- seeing whites of their eye, etc.) Side note in response to others re: tuck and fold sit: Many positive reinforcement trainers are no longer teaching the old T&F method. Not worth the common bite risk, especially when teaching adult dogs. We've had a number of hounds come through that would not tolerate the personally space invasive forced physical manipulation of a tuck and fold, especially from a new owner whose dog doesn't yet fully trust their new owner. One of our own hounds tried to bite a previous foster parent when they attempted a tuck and fold. Same result when they attempted a rear-end push down. Each time forced negative methods occur, it can intensify a dog's distrust of humans, taking longer to overcome. Some dogs tolerate it, others do not. Rewarding natural capturing methods are more kind, build trust, and are more successful.

Agree with others re: vet visit, and that feeding management is key. We do potty outings immediately before meals. Separate hounds during meal preparation and while they're eating meals (using baby-gates/ex-pens/crates, etc.). If possible, give each hound something else to do independently while they're waiting for food. Ours get a fun toy or something to refocus their excitement/energy towards while awaiting meals. Bowls are removed immediately after each dog finishes their own meal. Fosters and/or canine visitors are separated before and during meals also. When dogs can eat in their own private space without fear of another dog stealing their food, they can relax more easily. Multiple dogs around food, and/or food preparation has been the most risky time for serious fights in my experience. I've separated dogs by holding a chair upside down (by chair legs) and placing the chair's back between fighting dogs' faces. This safely separates dogs (even if dogs are rearing up on their hind legs), while keeping a human at a safe distance away. Brandi's probably stressed and feeling pain now and needs time and space to recover. After she's feeling better, if possible, briefly work with Brandi separately to help her with confidence building exercises. Keep sessions <5 minutes or so. Example: Practice "down" and "stay" with you remaining close by. Provide treat rewards, then offer a "release" cue for her to move around naturally. Practice gradually extending her down/stay duration. As she improves, you begin to move farther away, eventually going into the next room (leaving her sight) for a few seconds. Gradually build duration of her down/stays while you are out of sight. If she breaks her stay too soon, calmly start over. If you begin to feel any frustration, or if she begins to shut down mentally, stop immediately. Briefly refocus by asking for one easy behavior she does really well so her practice session ends on a positive note. "Find it" or "treasure hunt" exercises are fun. Helps to practice walking behavior when she's alone (or with only one other hound maximum). During walks, if you see another dog in the distance, happily keep moving while offering Brandi treats to engage her attention towards you instead of the other dog. Brandi needs her personal space so try make a brief turn (or U turn) walking away from the strange dog. In Brandi's mind, you need to be a lot more fun and exciting than a potentially scary passing dog. Good to keep leash length short enough to keep Brandi safely heeling next to your leg, but it's important that there not be tension from the leash going to her collar. (Constant leash tension increases a dog's stress/anxiety. Also makes them feel trapped if meeting an unfamiliar dog.) Hope some of this helps.

Oh Alicia, after all you and Henry have been through, I'm so deeply sorry that he has been stricken with more cancer. Glad that you were so alert to all his signs of pain and rushed him in for tests. My heart goes out to you all. I imagine Henry will be comforted by your loving, calming presence at home. Wishing you more gifted moments, pictures, and perhaps a clipping of his beautiful red brindle fur. You're all in our positive thoughts.

Oh, I'm so deeply sorry your beloved beautiful girl passed so suddenly. This is such shockingly heartbreaking news. If you ever feel up to posting in Remembrance in the future, we'd be interested to read more about your special girl. Heartfelt hugs during this most difficult time.

Ohh, I'm so sorry Andy wasn't able to share life with you a bit longer. Thank you for caring for him so lovingly during his later life time of need. May your happy memories together always remain close in heart.

Here's an example by Pat Miller, CPDT,: "Why not just push the dog into a sit, or “tuck” him into a sit by pressing in gently above the hocks? Some dogs are reluctant to sit due to back or joint pain, and need to learn to find a way to move into a sit that doesn’t hurt; your push may cause excruciating pain. Other dogs resent being physically manipulated. That may or may not be the reason I had a recent client whose Scottish Terrier caused serious injuries to his prior trainer when she tried to push him into a sit. He resisted her first two push-sit attempts, and on the third try went up her arm with his teeth." Source: http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/9_3/features/Training-Your-Dog-Using-Shaping_15792-1.html

Congratulations on your new adoption! So sorry you lost both of your previous hounds this year. If leash walking him in your yard doesn't help, try to arrange for a previously adopted, healthy, fellow Greyhound to come over for a yard visit. (Ensure the visiting hound has had a recent clear fecal test.) Since racers are accustomed to group kennel yard eliminations, he will probably come around soon. Otherwise, try capturing his urine in a large container (or use a long handled ladle to pour it into a container), then pour around the preferred elimination area in your yard. If your yard has chemicals or fertilizers, he might dislike the scent or feel paw pad burning/discomfort. (It's possible the pee pad, etc. might be confusing him too.) Good luck.

I'm so sorry for your sad loss of Kipper. May your happy memories of Kipper help you through this difficult time and beyond. Godspeed your special sweet boy.

There have been several cats in our extended neighborhoods that have been aggressive towards any moving passersby (humans, dogs, and cats). One cat recently attacked both legs of a human who was walking by on a public sidewalk (far from the cat's owner's house). Deep puncture bites and scratches to the human required professional medical care and took months to heal. Same cat chases any passersby out of his/her home territory, and beyond including crossing a quiet street. That cat's aggressive feline prey behavior has increased over the years due to repeated self-rewards of attacks with captures. (Young kittens are highly prey driven and often chase anything that moves. Fortunately, as they mature, most cats learn to avoid larger animals like dogs, but some don't.) All veterinarians we've seen in the past 30+ years have recommended keeping cats indoors for their health, safety, and the safety of others. Pet owners who allow their pets to roam outside must assume many dangerous risks. Any breed of dog, coyote, etc. could harm or kill a cat. (A loose Labrador killed a neighbors' cat.) I'm so sorry you are going through this with Charlie. I hope your area laws won't force him to wear a muzzle since that would put Charlie at greater risk to be seriously harmed by a loose dog. If your hound might be required to wear a muzzle while on leashed walks, I hope they would permit a Greyhound turnout muzzle or Greyhound racing muzzle which would allow Charlie to safely pant and drink water.

Looks like Dawn Cranz's racing weight was 27.5 kg ~ 61 lbs. If Gee Mac is a black male (UK) and just turned 6 years old in August, his racing weight was not listed on Greyhound-data. His racing weight may be listed in your adoption documents. Good question. I would be concerned that they may not be getting enough food. Our hounds average 3.5 to 4 cups of kibble per day. Dividing their daily amount into two meals is preferred vs. one meal. (Our hounds also get a small bedtime snack to hold them over to breakfast, otherwise some hounds vomit bile before breakfast.) Various kibble brands' caloric content can vary from 350+/- calories per cup to 500+ cal per cup. Typically, the higher quality with higher calorie content usually requires feeding less quantity. Feeding guide on kibble bag is a good start. If both of your hounds were eliminating stools overnight in the house, I would find a better quality kibble that agreed with their systems. A fecal test could rule out parasites (common cause of stool problems). Food changes should be introduced gradually over a couple weeks (or longer) since abrupt changes often result in stool problems. The USA adoption groups often suggest a healthy Greyhound "pet" weight is being able to see the last two ribs, and hip points. An average healthy "pet" weight gain for many Greyhounds is about 3 to 5 lbs.( up to 2.26 kg?) above racing weight. Greyhound specific weight comparisons between racing weight and healthy pet weight (including photos): http://greyhoundcrossroads.com/index.php?page=weight

Our hound had a similar event last year, but it was believed to be vestibular or possibly related to LP nerve damage which often progresses through the body. She had been moving and acting normally all day. That night she suddenly vomited large amounts, and became paralyzed in the rear half of her body including both hind legs. She had to be carried to the car, and was placed on a gurney into and out of the emergency hospital. Later, while recovering at home, she was fed and watered at her bedside, and carried outside for potty breaks with a canine neoprene sling aid. Slowly, her mobility began to normalize over several days. Her recovery happened to be complicated and extended by her poor reaction to medication used in the emergency hospital. The first few days at home she needed to be watched carefully since she had just enough mobility to pull herself into a different position by her front legs. I needed to intervene periodically to keep her in a safe position. She regained more mobility each day leading to her greater independence. She was fully recovered and eating normally within about 11 days. Our sling happens to be a walk-a-belly: http://www.walkaboutharnesses.com/

I'm sorry to see that Teddy had a mini-stroke. One of our hounds had a TIA mini-stroke several years ago. IIRC, she was about 10 years old. It affected everything on her right side including right front and hind legs. She collapsed on the carpet briefly. She regained use of her legs the same day, and was fully recovered within a few days. She remained stroke free for several years until last month when she had a brief mini-stroke overnight. Again, fully recovered. She's approaching 14 years old, still enjoys walks and playing with toys, but is medically restricted from running due to laryngeal paralysis. No vomiting in either mini-stroke case with our girl, but worth mentioning that she was inside resting in cool temperatures. Positive thoughts for Teddy.

Take baby steps and don't expect too much from him too soon. Learning obedience training is a completely new concept to a racer. You'll have better luck using the capture methods I mentioned in more detailed link/s above. (Two brief snippets copied below.) First, he needs to learn the verbal cue by connecting the word to the natural action. Reward for his good behavior even if his action only lasts a second or two. In time, he will relax more and offer the behavior longer. Three years old is still young for a Greyhound. Since he's young and eager, he'd likely relax more after a little exercise. Keep training opportunities very brief (less than 5 minutes) and fun. If he struggles to understand, stop and try again another day. Brief snippets of my training capture methods: Teaching Down Be ready with treats. Watch for dog to do the action naturally (e.g., dog getting ready to lie down after standing for meals or potty breaks). Capture the dog's natural movement giving it a verbal cue name "down" and immediately provide treat + happy verbal praise. Practice only when the dog offers the natural movement during the next days/weeks, etc. Teaching Sit This is highly effective once the hound trusts their human. Watch for hound to walk towards their bed (or carpet) to lie down naturally. Get ready with treat in hand, and quickly move closer to the hound. When hound's rear end touches ground/bed, calmly move over to stand in front of hound to block hound into a natural sit while preventing dog from lying down. Immediately say "sit" + treat, and praise, praise, praise. Practice periodically when the dog goes to lie down naturally, and the hound will learn "sit". I don't ask Greyhounds for sits on uncomfortable hard surfaces outside, or hard floors inside due to Greyhounds unique body physique, as they're not built for sitting. Some Greys should never be asked to sit due to previous injury.

Assuming your boy is a retired racing Greyhound, he is preconditioned to leap forward (e.g. when the racing box door opens at the track, Greyhounds are supposed to leap forward to gain full racing speed within 3-5 strides). He is happily and appropriately responding to your call for him to "come". Please read this recent post re: this subject: http://forum.greytalk.com/index.php/topic/315030-teaching-to-laysit/?p=5868147

Teaching Greyhounds "down" is often quite simple. Be ready with treats. Watch for dog to do the action naturally (e.g., dog getting ready to lie down after standing for meals or potty breaks). Capture the dog's natural movement giving it a verbal cue name "down" and immediately provide treat + happy verbal praise. Practice only when the dog offers the natural movement during the next days/weeks, etc. A few cautions (and please see link below): Dogs should not be physically forced during any training. Many dogs will bite a human if trying to push down on the dog's rear end or physically forcing tuck and fold, etc. Naturally, many Greyhounds only stand, lie down, walk/run. Greyhounds' bodies are not built to sit comfortably. Please do not expect a Greyhound to hold a sit for any lengthy time. You may notice Greyhounds' hind legs shaking if doing a straight sit (vs.side sit), or they may need to stand due to sitting discomfort. (Greys are not built like other breeds who can sit comfortably for longer periods.) Some retired racers should never be expected to sit, especially if they've experienced a previous injury that may cause discomfort/pain. Please read this post about teaching Greyhounds several obedience basics: http://forum.greytalk.com/index.php/topic/308895-teaching-the-basics-fast/?p=5735329