greysmom

Investigate Kong toys. At least some of them have a squaker you can turn off and on. We also use a lot of rope and knotted toys though those can get very heavy. Their favorite rope toy is a HUGE solid rope ball almost a foot across. That thing will knock you flat if they throw it in your direction, but they have so much fun playing with it! That one stays outside for the most part.

Every mammal's body temp varies naturally throughout the day. A temp of 101 would not concern me at all, particularly in the absence of any other symptoms. Why did your vet prescribe a high powered antibiotic? Did they say they suspect a particular disease or injury? This seems odd to me.

Probably not an emergency, but at some point it needs an xray, just to make sure of what it's not (cancer vs broken bone, vs individual physiology), and to anticipate any medical/drug needs to keep him comfortable in the future.

It comes in a very highly rated hybrid! 30+ mpg is hard to beat for any size SUV. With apparently very lttle, if any, loss of power, It's also on our replacement list. Also, as the Prius lover on GT I'll add that they now have a new AWD Prius. I can fit 3 dogs in the back of my 2005 model with the seats down, and as much non-dog cargo as a small SUV.

Definitely time for a vet visit to discuss canine cognitive disfunction. It can come on gradually or suddenly, and can be very scary for everyone. Pam - - I'm pretty sure the diagnosis quote was for the OP and not aimed at you.

No. A seven foot fence would be nothing to a determined or scared greyhound. One of mine routinely jumps and puts her paws on the top of our 6 ft wooden fence to see the next door shepherd. Just for fun.

Get the book "I'll Be Home Soon" by Patricia McConnell (ebook or regular paperback). It's short and to the point, step-by-step instructions for helping your dog get used to being left alone.

Every Crossover and SUV You Can Still Buy With a Manual Transmission 07/21/20, Car & Driver Every 2020 Car you Can Still Get With a Manual Transmission 04/06/20, Carfax (just a list) Personally, and I think I said this before, we're looking at either a Highlander Hybrid or 4Runner as a replacement dog car. If I had unlimited funds and a luxery frame of mind I'd go for a Ford Flex.

He's never had to be alone in his entire life until now, so you need to get him used to it just like you would with separation anxiety (because that's kind of what it is, really). I will also say that UK and US attitudes towards where their dogs sleep seem to be quite different. Most US folks prefer (if possible) to have their dogs in the bedroom with them, and most UK folks seem to prefer they settle and sleep elsewhere in the house. Either is really OK, but you do have to choose and train them to comfortable wherever you decide he needs to sleep. Thirdly, I'll advocate for finding a way to have him be able to sleep with his new home pack, if at all possible. A simple bed in a corner or next to a night stand is enough room unless your boy is particularly huge. Dogs are more comfortable being connected with their owners, and sleeping together is a big part of that. Fourth, search through the threads here for ones about new dogs waking up early. Their days start *very* early in the training and racing kennels and he's just following the schedule he's had for most of his life. A poster named Ducky also has a brilliant schedule for training them to wake up earlier, so hopefully she can post that here.

Since most of us get our info from the FB group there probably won't be much new for us to offer. I will say, in an opposing opinion, that I would think long and hard about doing a Flexor Tenotomy which is really just a surgical procedure creating a "sprung toe" on your dog. Many people have done it and had great initial success, but it's a really new procedure (only started being done about 2 years ago) so there is really no info about long term effects or success. Our corn dog passed last year, but we explored doing it on him with our vet. She read all the literature and even called Dr Guillard and spoke with him about it. She decided there were just too many questions and unknowns for her to recommend it, the biggest one being there doesn't seem to be any recourse if your dog develops corns on pads adjacent to the toe that was operated on. The FT people say one should just keep on cutting tendons in your dogs foot, but that seems to me like a big, dark rabbit hole to go down. With that advice, you would really compromise your dogs physical ability to use the foot properly, perhaps even leading to corns on other feet due to the altered gait - and on and on. IMO, a conservative approach of daily soaking, daily moisturizing, and regular hulling seems to give the best long term results. It's a pain to have to manage feet daily, but it's just what you do when you have a corn dog. No one is really sure *why* methods of using duct tape or nail polish work - starving the corn, which is dead tissue, of oxygen seem counterintuitive - but they do seem to accelerate the rate for hulling them, and don't involve a lot of messing around with the feet (a plus if your dog is really touchy). Corns suck rotten eggs and I hate them. Good luck with yours!

Front leg amps are the hardest because most harnesses use the front legs to anchor and provide leverage for the harness. You might try the "Help 'Em Up" harness as that has worked for some. https://helpemup.com/ You'll find that your dog will need a lot of help in the beginning, then gradually less as they heal and regain strength after surgery. Front leg amps will also need to move faster than before as they use momentum to replace some of the drive and support from the lost leg. Greyhounds carry most of their weight over the front end, so everything just takes a bit longer to sort out.

Probably over-thinking, yes! Everything you describe is really normal for a dog getting comfortable and really settling into their new living situation. She now has a level of trust and familiarity with her people and her home, and she now feels more comfortable expressing her opinions. Same with meetings out on walks. She may have been a little closed down, and you just didn't see it. Or maybe she was trying out meeting all these new things, but now knows she doesn't really like that. It's hard to know exactly. Just know, and please pass on to your partner, that the nip wasn't personal and that it could have been much worse if Ursula had *really* wanted to hurt her. You both now know she's a resource guarder, so you know what to watch for and how to handle it. It means being careful ANY TIME you need to remove and high value resource (space, treats, food, toys) from her possession. Trading up is a perfectly valid response. The other thing you can do is teach her the "leave it" command. There are plenty of videos on YouTube on how to manage that. For walks and meeting new people/dogs, just be very careful and let her decide whether she wants to or not. If she seems anxious, just say Hi and move on. Don't force her to interact when she clearly doesn't want to. She may decide in the future that it's all ok, and she'll be eager to reach out again. Or she may be naturally more introverted and prefer the company of a smaller group of companions going forward. Dogs do grow and change, just like other living things. The dog you have right now isn't the dog you had 8 weeks ago, nor is it the dog you'll have 8 weeks from now. And that's perfectly normal too.

Before I go further I wanted to mention the pancreatitis is a real possibility that should have been explored before now. It takes a blood test and your vet should have thought of this 2 years ago. A bland diet is super simple. It's just a protein and a carb, cooked well, and very low fat. This is the same protocol you would go through to conduct a food intolerance trial, too. Examples of low fat protein: ground chicken, ground turkey, ground plain hamburger, poached mild white fish. Stay away from game meats like bison or venison or rabbit, and exotics like kangaroo. It needs to be plain simple protein. Rinse ground meat after cooking to get rid of any lingering fat content. Examples of a carb source: brown or white whole grain rice overcooked in low fat broth or water, oatmeal, peeled white potatoes mashed, sweet potatoes, any other whole grain like barley or quinoa cooked to mushiness. Don't cook them in a broth which is from a protein source you're avoiding. Fast your dog until the diarrhea stops. Make sure he stays hydrated. Then begin feeding with SMALL portions (about a 1/4 cup) of each protein/carb. If the diarrhea doesn't start again in 2 hours feed the same again. Follow this timing for the first day or so. If there's no diarrhea after that, increase by 1/4 cup, but keep multiple feedings per day. If he still has diarrhea, he has something wrong that needs addressing asap before it wrecks his digestive tract. IMO.

We already know vets in the UK are very different from the ones here in the States regarding diagnosis and treatment of more complex health issues. Still, it seems some very basic things have not been tried or even thought about, unless you didn't mention them. Number one - eliminate all medical causes: Has he been actually tested for parasites or other intestinal diseases like Giardia? Has he been actually treated for his diarrhea with rx medications like metronidazole, tylan, steroids - anything other than supplements and probiotics?? What does his bloodwork and urinalysis say? Has he ever had an ultrasound of his abdomen to check for tumors or thickening of the walls if his intestines? Have you had his heart condition tested by echocardiogram? Once you eliminate medical causes for his constant diarrhea (namely - parasites, intestinal diseases like giardia and coccydia, IBD/IBS, etc), it's time to check in with his food. Analyze the foods and treats you've been feeding him. Do they have a common ingredient he *may* be allergic or intolerant to like chicken (even in minute amounts) or corn. These are the two most common canine allergens, but there can be myriad others. Have you ever tried a home-cooked bland diet for any length of time or has he always eaten a commercial diet? There just seems to be a lot of questions unanswered about his treatment up to now, so thinkig about these answers may help. Before you move on to trying a raw diet, I would definitely get to the bottom of the cause for his diarrhea.

It's very nice, but costs can vary wildly from one geographic area to the next. It depends on a lot of factors including the size of your city/town, veterinary costs, and what the individual adoption groups include in the costs for adoption. My adoption group currently charges $500. For that you get a dog that has been vet checked and treated, spayed/neutered and a dental cleaning, martingale and leash, group tag, muzzle, and a few days of food to aid in the transition. Nowadays we are sending home at least a couple months of flea/tick/heartworm meds AND treatment for MDR parasites. But even $500 doesn't cover the whole cost of transporting the dogs from wherever they are to where your group is, or if there needs to be extensive treatment for a disease or injury, or the weeks in between for food and kenneling even with the use of foster homes. Blue slips - the ID card you mentioned - and pet transfers are almost never provided by a group, but they are easily obtained once you have your dog. Plus, much of what you suggest to buy for your dogs are your opinions only. I have crates, I never use them, even for our first greyhound. Same with coats. Unless it's a deluge rainstorm or below 20 degrees my dogs don't wear them. Same with blankets - my dogs kick them aside and get too hot if covered up. Some dogs like toys, most can care less - at least in the beginning. They can also cause issues if you have a resource guarder. Raised feeders are pretty much personal preference. I use them, but dogs usually eat off the floor of their kennels at the farm and track. Like I said, it's nice. A slick piece for your YouTube channel to drive viewers to your webpage. As long as you emphasize it's for your local group or in *very* general terms only. And your greyhound is a cutie! BUT please!! Don't ever publically advocate for people to go against the advice of medical professionals regarding the use of human medications and treatments. Especially for new dog owners. FWIW, the flouride in people toothpaste is not the main problem. Yes, it *can* cause acute flouride toxicity over time because it's not meant to be swallowed. It also contains a compound called "sodium lauryl sulfate" which is the compound that makes people toothpaste foam up. It's meant to be spit out not ingested as well, and it can cause severe gastrointestinal distress in dogs when they do. But much worse for our canine friends is that people toothpaste quite often contains xylitol, and a very small amount can kill a greyhound sized dog very quickly.

It can take up to six months for all the hormones to get out of their systems post-neutering. Some dogs handle this transition better than others. It sounds like you have a good plan in place, now you just have to give it time to work.

Have them tested for parasites and UTI first. Especially if they came off a farm recently or from anyplace in the Southeast US. Once you eliminate a medical issue you can move on to behavioral. Dogs have to go potty when they first wake up, after they eat, after they are active/playing. Putting them on a strict daily schedule will help, and then monitor them closely. Since she's leash walking them she may need to become adept at doing potties with both at the same time, so the second one doesn't have a chance to go inside while she's out with the first. I might also suggest a temporarily set up potty area - with cattle panels, welded wire fencing, snow fencing, or even a few 4-5 ft xpens can make a sufficiant loose potty space. The fencing should be very well secured, to say the least, and they should always be supervised when outside.

This is based on a new study coming out of a University setting (Georgia, I think). It has been tested but it's quite dangerous and needs to be vet administered. If you have a dog with hooks, you might talk with your vet about starting a course with the reconfigured ProHeart6 or ProHeart12 shots. My vet spoke to the manufacturer and is now recommending it for nearly all her clinic's dogs that have infestations, whether they are greyhounds or not, or have medication resistant hooks or not. The key is that the medication in the injections is continuously released in the bloodstream for 6 or 12 months. This eliminates the "timing" issue you have with oral/topical medications with the lifecycle of the parasites. It eliminates the issue of larval leak. And because it's continuous for many months in a row, owners don't have to remember to keep giving medications. It's also much safer than using Profender as described. I use it with all my dogs and we have had zero negative side effects - even my dog that has issues with everything else! My dog with hooks tested clean after 2 months and no further infestations have occurred in her or my other two dogs. I think this is the actual study. Efficacy evaluation of anthelmintic products against an infection with the canine hookworm

If it was inside a box with a flat of canned food it's likely that's how the tear happened in transit. I'd check it out thoroughly and use it.

If you have 7 dogs you have a pretty large pack, especially when they are all inside in a relatively closed in space and they have limited places to go to get away from each other. It's a question of pack dynamics and management of a larger colony of dogs. You went from a stable pack of 5 and introduced two new dogs at the same time, so there's bound to be upset and juggling of order and seniority. This could go on for some months. We've had as many as 6 at once, and it does take some real management to make *sure* every dog in your pack stays safe in their own home. If the new boy has space issues and is continuing to express them, he needs to remain isolated from the rest when you're not there to supervise - whether that's leaving the house or going to bed. With a pack that large we also muzzle *everyone* every time they are alone. It only takes a little squabble to turn into a tragedy. Better safe than sorry. Always.

WheeeeeEEEEEeeeeeeEEEEEEeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!! Looks like they're having fun!!! I must have the weirdest dogs in the whole world!! None of them will eat any sort of "body part" treat like that - except bully sticks, I guess! - no ears, no feet, no antlers, no hooves, no real bones even! They just look at me like they're waiting for the *real* treats to come out!!!

If you're going for long extended walks - say, over 60 minutes - or walking a lot on a frozen surface, I would be concerned about getting her some boots. A snood may also be helpful if it's particularly windy or having frozen precipitation. But a coat isn't going to help much with either cold feet or cold ears! It's normal for extremities to become cold as the body reroutes bloodflow to its core, where all the important organs are, in chilly weather. It also happens after hard exercise unless it's very hot out. My dogs routinely are outside playing for 20-30 minutes in cold weather - even below 0 C (down to, say, 20 degrees F) - with no coats or anything. They love playing in snow, and I've had more than one greyhound who simply will refuse to toilet if they have a coat on!!! That being said, watch your dog and they will usually tell you when they are uncomfortable, want to stop, or maybe need a covering. But again, if it's that cold, you don't want to be out for an extended amount of time anyway.

If you find a home vet make sure they can do diagnostic xrays from their vehicle, otherwise an in-office vist may be necessary to image her spine and hips to check for impingements or disc issues. The RuffWear Webmaster harness can aid you helping her get around. They are very well made and fit greyhounds better than other gear. It's also very adjustable at several points. Make sure you take careful measurements and get the size that's best for her. You may be able to help her with medications and supplements for a little while, but aging just sucks in general. Definitely make sure she isn't in any pain, and discuss adding the nerve medication gabapentin to her daily regimen. This can often aid the nerves in her spine work a little better allowing her to get around easier. And it's time to give her whatever accommodations she needs for every day living - let her eat on her bed, rugs over slippery floors, pee pads in case of accidents (or even diapers if she gets that incontinent), no more walks and naps all the time! Spoil her ocassionally with yummy treats like ice cream and steak if her system can tolerate them. Control any pain, monitor her weight, love her lavishly/ You're so lucky to have had her with you for this special time.

I'm going with "Editorial Comment!"