greysmom

💖💖💖💖💖💖 Our first greyhound Libby was exactly like Annie!! We took her on vacation to Seattle and stayed in a downtown dog friendly hotel. Every time we had to take her walking to potty she would - literally - mug strangers jn the street to pet her. She would see someone coming and deliberately step right in their way and stop dead, so THEY had to stop and pet her!!! We met so many people because of Libby!!

Yes and seconding everything Rachel said. In addition: If it's anything other than OSA, amp and chemo *may* be curative, particularly since you've caught it so early. I would also not waste time with a FNA. The result of it doesn't really matter since you'll probably want/need to amp anyway (unless you choose palliative-only care). The one caveat to that is if it's osteomyelitis, but as Dr Couto states, that's extremely rare. The odds are overwhelming that it's osteo. Have you said whether it's a back leg or front leg?? That may enter your calculations regarding her adaptability as front leg amps seem to have a little more difficult time getting going following surgery. The adjustment time seems to be much quicker with rear leg amps. I also agree with leaving them in the clinic for a few days following surgery and letting the professionals deal with the worst of the getting them up and moving around. Unless the dog is just terrified and terribly anxious in that environment - remembering they will be mostly drugged up. I would *never* do an amp without Amicar on board. Never. Even if they've never shown any bleeding issues. Remember, it's not an inability to clot that's the problem. It's the inability of the clot to hold long term. So the dog could be fine following surgery and then the next morning, or whenever they begin to move around, the clots fail, and with the size of an amp incision, it can get very dangerous very quickly. Look on Good RX for the best price on it in your area. I just had to get 15 pills and the initial price was over $300. Good luck. Keep us updated!

For many of our dogs the adoption kennel was just a pass-through from the track. Most were within a few days-to-week retiring. Since we were technically their foster home we picked them up as soon as they walked off the transport. So I can say that there is really not that much difference between recent retirees and fostered dogs except the amount of time they've spent living in a home environment. Most of them just walk through the door and head for the couch. You do have to deal with potty training. But if you establish a similar schedule for turnouts (after every meal, mid-morning, mid-afternoon, last outs) and are strict about following it - and watch them like a hawk! - you can have that done really quickly. Some males can be markers, some females pretty stubborn, but they are all smart enough to get the idea really quickly. You also need to actually *teach* them about a few things - stairs, windows, sliding doors, pottying on a leash, counter surfing - but again, it's all part of the package. If you establish the rules and are consistent, most learn really quickly. The cat thing can be an issue, so don't hand over your money until you get that sorted. The closer they are to the track the longer it can take to get a true read on whether they can co-exist with cats/small dogs. Having a cat that is really comfortable dealing with dogs is a huge plus!! There's no better teacher than an angry paw swipe across the nose! So what I'm saying is - GO GET THAT GIRL!!!! ETA - she's a grand daughter of vet Dr Shelley Lake's stud (now deceased) Flying Coal City.

I'm so sorry Lauren........... {{{hugs}}}

Greyhounds being reactive to greyhounds is more rare than being reactive towards other breeds. If it *only* happens when she is on leash, and she's fine meeting other greyhounds when she running free, she may be having an anxiety reaction to being restrained during those meetings. Leash reactivity is a behavior that can be worked on with patience and time. Patricia McConnell is a very good dog trainer and behaviorist. She has many good books regarding training for different behavioral issues. This is her booklet for leash reactivity: Feisty Fido: Help for the Leash Reactive Dog If you dog is only showing anxiety towards greyhounds, and not other breeds, when meeting on leash, I would be concerned that there has been some sort of incident that occurred to make her feel that a warning is necessary. Even very hard, competitive playing is usually easily separated from a more serious reaction between greyhounds.

As long as whatever you give them is formulated for dogs and contains no fake sugars, there's no reason not to. I think it's in the "can't hurt, might help" section.

Ours just says "Adult" on it. The kibbles are a bit bigger than 1/4 inch triangles. The small breed is sort of the size of rabbit pellets, or alfalfa pellets used for horse feed - a little smaller than 1/4 inch. None of my greyhounds have ever really chewed their kibbles. And many with all their teeth removed eat just fine. You may want to re-do the ultrasound if it was some weeks ago as time could be more revealing. Also you can focus on her stomach more closely, rather than a general sort of scan for blockages of her whole digestive tract, in light of the above story. And take a look at her esophagus as well. Remember, organic substances like socks and food don't show up very well on xrays. The US may be your best shot. Good luck!

This is currently one of the biggest worries I have. I switched to this vet because our previous vet was a walk-in-only clinic and you sometimes had to wait HOURS just to be seen for regular vaccinations if you chose the wrong time of day. Plus, I'm pretty sure their need to rush through every client to get to the next contributed to the death of at least one of my dogs. So we switched to our current vet that many other local greyhound owners also use. We LOVELOVELOVE her!!! She owns the clinic, and there are currently 4 or 5 vets on staff, but she's the greyhound savvy one. I know she's getting ready to retire as she's been cutting back her clinic hours for the last few years. I have to schedule several weeks out to get in to see her specifically. Several of the other vets are fine, but I really appreciate the collaborative relationship I've built with this vet over the years. She doesn't dismiss my knowledge and research, and I always ask her opinion about what she'd do. In fact, both my dogs need to go in for shots in July, so I'd better make that appointment soon!!

Does she eat her meals down quickly and then immediately hork them back up or is the vomiting delayed from the meal by more than an hour?? Does she want to re-feed on her vomited food or does she ignore it?? Gross I know, but they will avoid vomit if there's an illness. Results of *recent* parasite fecal tests?? Just from your post I would speculate that she's eating super fast, either to protect her food from the guest or to get to the guests food faster to eat herself. The faster they eat, the more air they swallow along with it, causing the need to get the air out and the food along with it. So you might consider some different meal strategies if your guest is going to be there long term - eating in separate rooms or while crated, using a slow feeder for one or both dogs, feeding smaller meals more often. Definitely supervise their meals to keep things calm and quiet while they're eating. If you've been using the same protein source throughout this issue she could also have an intolerance to this protein. You might try switching to a different but still bland protein, not too high in fat percentage. I use and recommend Purina ProPlan Sensitive Stomach Salmon and Rice (there's also a turkey flavor). Make sure the food you are feeding contains whole grains. Persistent vomiting can be a symptom of heart issues caused by feeding boutique "grain-free" foods (Dilated Cardiomyopathy).

It's a process, not a solution. As she settles in things will be fluid regarding her behavior and her responses to both novel things and familiar things. The rule of thumb is "three days, three weeks, three months." You'll see new aspects of her personality emerge the safer and more relaxed she gets. And even after three years you can see them develop new behaviors - my 6 years old, who's been home for 4 years now - recently started barking and playbowing with me when she wants to play. Something she's reserved for other dogs previously. My question was whether the tv was on or not. If it was off, it's likely she saw a reflection that caused a reaction - windows and stove doors are the classic places for this but any reflective surface will work. If it was on, likely there was a sound or picture that caused the reaction. Certain bell sounds or sirens always make my dogs prick up their ears, even after years as a pet. Leaving an alternate sound source on will probably help her remain calm as there's nearly always a radio playing in the kennels. As far as the overnight accidents, make sure she is completely parasite free, as an infestation can cause increased urgency to pee as well as poop. Hookworms are *extremely* common in newly adopted retired racers, so even if they told you she was wormed and even if she's tested negative, test her again!!! You need three negative tests spaced apart at 2 week intervals to make sure she's clear. These drug resistant hooks can be really (really, really) hard to get rid of, often taking months of treatments.

I would strongly suggest seeing if you have a canine oncologist available to you where you are. Regular vets are awesome, but sometimes you need a specialist who can provide up-to-the-minute current research and treatment advice. It's likely the toe amp removed the danger, and he'll be fine going forward. You'll need to monitor the amp site closely to make sure it's healing properly, as it could be a bad sign if it doesn't. If you'd like a further consult you can join The Greyhound Health Initiative and send digital files to Dr Guillermo Couto who is a noted greyhound vet specializing in various cancers. Greyhound Health Initiative

If you post your general geographic area, some of our Canadian folks might be able to suggest a vet with more greyhound experience.

Acid reflux can absolutely cause teeth and other mouth and throat issues. But it's much more common in humans than it is in dogs. Stomach acids and bacteria vary greatly in dogs from people, and while they can get it it's much rarer. Has your vet actually diagnosed your dog with AR through endoscopy or other testing?? Or is he going from symptoms and the condition of his mouth? Is your vet knowledgeable about greyhounds and their particular mouth issues? Some greyhounds just have terrible teeth. Many people attribute this to their racing diet, but it's more than likely a genetic issue. I had one dog who could have had an anesthetized full dental every 6 months. He ate the same food, got the same dental chews, everything exactly the same as the 4 other greyhounds we had at the time who hardly ever needed even a scraping. He ended up losing most of his teeth by the time he was 10 (and did fine that way for two more years). They can also get auto immune diseases that affect their mouths, particularly one called C.U.P.S (Chronic Ulcerative Paradental Stomatitis). This affects the gums more than the actual teeth, causing gum ulcerations and terrible bad breath. The treatment for it usually involves removing their teeth to stop the pain and degeneration. If you have access to a certified canine dental specialist, I believe it would be worth the time and cost to get this diagnosis correct. If your dog does have acid reflux a treatment with an otc acid reducer like Prilosec or famotidine can be tried. Sometimes a diet change to different food - a lower fat and/or protein content - can help.

The issue of poops getting progressively looser on walks is, I think, more mechanical than anything else. There are two factors: One is that the food in the gut is getting continually churned up when walking, so it doesn't have a chance to sit and firm up. Two - not having a chance to sit means it's liquid quantity from the food doesn't have a chance to reabsorb through the gut, so it's naturally looser and more liquidy. Then the smells and stimulation of the walk itself causes them to want to go more, so the gut is just processing as fast as it can and out it goes! So it's not really a "problem" per se that needs solving, it's just what happens as their food is digested. The caveat being he has to be cleared of any medical issues and parasites, which can throw off any normal gut work.

Yes, adding non-soluble fiber can sometimes help resolve multiple-pooping issues. You can do that by using a higher fiber food (usually rx), or adding fiber supplements. Most of us here on GT have become fans of a supplement product called Olewo Carrots (Olewo Carrots). These are dried carrots in pellet form which can be rehydrated and added into your dog's regular food. They also have a beet pulp product (beet pulp is a common livestock supplement for adding fiber and can be bought from feed stores). You can also just add plain, regular Benefiber tablets/powder (make sure there's no xylotol sugar and it's the NON-soluble kind). Some people use plain, no salt, canned string beans. Some people like to make a sort of vegetable stew in the crock pot so they can individualize the ingredients (high fiber grains, sweet potatoes, other veggies, broths, etc). It just depends on what you're comfortable with and what works best for your dog. In our house we found the carrots do the job. Just one tablespoon of pellets, rehydrated with warm water, turns into about a 1/2 cup of fiber. We only put it in one meal as we found it was *too* binding if used twice a day. Since we started the carrots both our dogs have perfect stools whenever they poop!

Enablers-R-Us!!!!

I did have a spook, and it's very much like having a child on the autism spectrum. The way she was happiest was having a strict daily routine, no surprises, never leaving the house, no visitors. She didn't ever bond or pay attention to the numerous other greyhounds we had at the same time through her life. She would engage in various repetitive soothing behaviors obsessively. She knew her name but rarely responded to it. I had to have her on leash in our fenced yard for most of 8 years because she wouldn't go back in the house on her own, or follow the lead of the other dogs. She was whip smart and learned things quickly once we found what motivated her, but if she wasn't interested there was little you could do. She tolerated my husband, but she was my dog. Also, interestingly enough, she was a stakes winning racer and very fast - as long as she was at *her* track. Once they moved her to a higher level, away from what was familiar to her, she only won a few times before being sent to adoption. Anti anxiety medications helped sometimes, but not enough to justify their daily use. She just needed what she needed, and as long as she had it she was fine staying within those boundaries. I saved the trazadone for vet visits and the limited times we had visitors. But she was happy and healthy 99% of the time. She would play with toys. She loved her food and treats. She liked getting brushed and laying in the wading pool in the summer. She liked having me sit near her bed and hold her paw while she slept. So I'll amend my earlier statement to say it's possible you have a spook, and yes, they can be more difficult to place. People do become frustrated by their perceived lack of bonding and difficulties with "normal" life. But if you can change the perspective and accept/provide what he needs in his world, they can be very rewarding companions.

They have to learn to run full out, just like they have to learn to win. The gait is instinctive, but they need to learn to use it. And it takes 3-5 full strides to get up to speed - most dog parks aren't big enough for a full striding greyhound that gets 20-30 feet at a jump. There are shorter official races, but most tracks are 1/4 mile around. Even puppy runs at the farms are several hundred feet long.

Do you live in an urban area where there's traffic and pedestrians and garbage trucks and noisy scary things outside all the time??? He probably needs a pretty quiet living situation for his outside environment as well. Probably not a spook - they can't progress in behavior training beyond a certain point - just a really anxious little dude. Unless you need to walk for toileting I would just let him be a house and backyard dog. He may never come around to being comfortable in a hectic environment inside or outside. Toss a ball or stuffy in the back yard, do some basic training, get him some puzzle games if he's food motivated when comfortable - there's lots of ways to stimulate his brain without going on walks.

Yes. Separation Anxiety is probably the number one thing we see here so there are many (many many many) threads about it. Look for the most recent ones as they will have the most current thinking. Best advice is to get the book/ebook "I'll Be Home Soon" by Patricia McConnell. She's a good trainer and gives step by step instructions on how to get your dog comfortable with staying by themselves. If, after reading and working with your dog conscientiously and regularly, she still can't be left without becoming upset and anxious, the best thing may be to return her so she can be adopted into a home with 24/7 companions, and you can find a greyhound who's fine being a solo dog. Some dogs just can't be left alone. It's not a failure or a condemnation on her part or yours. It just wasn't the right fit for either of you.

I really am sorry. It's so hard when they are so young... It does sound like a spinal stroke or aneurysm or some another spinal injury issue that caused her sudden collapse. Did they take xrays or offer any sort of treatment?? Is your vet (or the Evet where you took her) familiar with greyhounds?? Again, that sounds more catastrophic than simple degenerative disc disease. Please know there was likely nothing you could have done, regardless of her diagnosis, except supportive care and time to see if she would recover on her own. Deciding to euthanize her, while painful and traumatic, especially with such a young dog, was the right choice for her circumstances. You did your very best for her, and she knew you loved her. That's all any of us can wish for in our final moments. {{{hugs}}}

How else would your sweet girl let you know she was OK??? I'm not crying, you're crying!!!

Disc disease is fairly common, but so young is not. I would think it might have been a spinal stroke or blood clot or some other immediate event, rather than DDD, which usually takes years to impact quality of life enough to need euthanasia. Did she have an accident?? I'm so sorry for your loss of your sweet girl. We never have enough time with them, and having it cut prematurely short seems even more cruel. {{{hugs}}}

Did they take xrays or an ultrasound to see if there's a foreign body or blockage?? Bloodwork results?? If she's continuing to vomit she needs to go back to the vet/e-vet asap as they can dehydrate extremely quickly and suffer seizures or other reactions.

Run with the Angels, sweet girl. You will be missed by so many of us left behind. {{{hugs}}} to you Rachel, and your whole family.