greysmom

I hope this dog is doing OK now. Please update us if you can.

To answer your question: If you're talking about the vet putting your dog under anesthesia, and surgically cutting and removing the corn, the answer is that it is NOT worth any amount of money. It puts your dog in danger from the sedation, and it is highly unlikely to completely remove the corn. It will probably grow back in a few months. If you're talking about the vet "hulling" the visible part of the corn as a maintenance service, I would urge you to consider learning how to do this at home. It's an easy procedure, not painful for the dog, and much simpler to manage at home. If you're on Facebook, join the group mentioned above "Greyhounds with Corns" for more info than you would ever think possible about corns and how to deal with them. If you're not on Facebook, it's worth it to join just for that group. The current "in" treatment is with a product called "Animaltex" which you apply as in the duct tape method described above. It soaks and loosens the corn, making it easier to remove. There is also a minor surgical procedure called the "Flexor Tenotomy" which cuts the inner toe tendon (causing a "sprung toe"). This then relieves the pressure inside the toe which causes the corn to disappear. There's a sister FB page to the corn one that discusses this procedure.

^^^ This. It doesn't work with humans very well either. Part of the fairy tale told by drug companies to doctors, and why there are so many people addicted to opioids. I just keep a bottle of an nsaid around. In our house, it's meloxicam. My vet knows me well and trusts me to use it appropriately, and we discuss it frequently. Usually 3 or 4 days of an nsaid will help get a dog through a soft tissue injury, and it's what a vet would prescribe anyway, before moving on to other modalities. So I can skip paying for an office visit (and cluttering up their office schedule nowadays, which can be hard to get in as you know), and we both know it's serious if I have to bring a dog in.

As mentioned, theories are numerous as to why dogs do this, but no one really knows why. IMO, it's very individual to each dog, and not a one-answer-fits-all kind of behavior. Sometimes it's seasonal, and comes and goes, sometimes it's a habit they form and continue every time they're outside. The one thing you find out is once it begins you usually can't ever trust them not to eat poop anymore. There are literally thousands (maybe more) of solutions to try. Everything from commercial additives to natural remedies to raw fresh pineapple juice. Sometimes one will work for a dog, sometimes nothing works. The only way to be sure they don't get into their own poop is to have them wear their basket muzzle with a stool guard fitted in/on every time they are out in the yard, and keep your yard meticulously picked up. Yes, it's a hassle for the humans, but greyhounds are very used to wearing muzzles for turnouts, so it's not like they feel "punished" for anything. You do really need to keep them from eating poop. They can reinfect themselves with parasites, get extra medication that's excreted in stool, pick up foreign bodies again that manage to make their way out of the body, affect their mouths and teeth (and breath - gross!), and it's just not hygenic. Some people are much more ... blase' about the habit, but there are good health reasons to not allow it to continue.

Yes, it has to do with how thick and/or flexible their ear cartilage is, which is an outcome of genetics. I had a black greyhound that people *constantly* thought was a doberman because his ears were stand-up and not folded!

Dogs are quite capable of learning the rules, even when they are complicated. The issue is that they are also usually better, more patient/stubborn people trainers than people are as dog trainers. Teach him a command for getting off the bed. Work on this on other things - couch, chair, bed, whatever he regularly will lay on. Say the command, lure him off his spot with a treat, praise and treat once he's off the object. If you want him to always end up on hisown bed, make sure that's part of the command. In our house, "OFF!" means *get down from where you are and go to your bed* It doesn't mean they're banned from that furniture, only that the humans get to decide when they can lay there. Warning - this process (getting him to leave your bed) is going to take a lot longer than you think, so be consistent and patient, and as stubborn as a greyhound! Getting him a newer, nicer primo bedroom bed may encourage him to stay on his bed. He may also like a nice fleece blanket or pajamas if you keep your house cool at night.

YEAH SWEEP!!!!

There is a drug that can *sometimes* help alleviate the symptoms of CCD called Anipryl. Other classes of anti anxiety meds may work if this one doesn't. You also might find CBD oil to be helpful, if it's legal in your area (find a reputable manufacturer). Here's a pretty good summary to give you some other ideas: How To Treat Dementia and Senility in Dogs

@sniffy Hunneyboots come from Australia and are specifically made for those hard-to-fit sighthound feet. They were designed and developed to help greyhounds with corns, but they work in all sorts of applications. They do keep adapting them as they get feedback from people (hence the "version 3"), but the company is pretty responsive and very helpful when you're measuring and figuring out sizes.

He's right in the middle of a big growth spurt, so he's going to look a bit raggedy and scrawny. He will off and on until he attains his final adult body weight and development, sometime between 2 and 4 years old. I'm a little fuzzy on the UK weight amounts, but it does seem he could be getting a bit more food for his activity and growth level. IMO, the easiest thing to do would be to add another cup of kibble to breakfast and dinner. It's also the easiest to cut back or add as he needs more or less fuel for his physical development. The caveat to that is that it must be a complete kibble which includes a whole grain. Please do not feed grain free food due to the risk of developing Nutrition-related Dilated CardioMyelopathy. And raw diets are as implicated in the development of heart failure as commercial boutique kibbles. There is not a lot of info on this in the UK, but this is a serious risk (you can search through the forum here for threads on it). Carbs are also a necessary ingredient to a well rounded diet with the proper nutrients. Remember that dogs are not obligate carnivores like cats. They are domesticated scavengers and can and should eat foods from all the food groups. If you don't want to increase his kibble you can add in some oatmeal bran or cooked oatmeal, or whole grain pasta cooked in broth. A cup per meal.

I sent a whole box of coats and PJs we didn't use to a Canadian adoption group for a fundraiser auction they run every year. Usually I save all that kind of stuff for the Miss Nellie/Hope4Hounds auction in October, though it hasn't happened in a couple years due to Covid. I've donated items to our local adoption group, and to individual fundraiser auctions on Facebook where people use the proceeds for vet bills or donations. The most important thing is making sure the items are in good shape (even if used) and appropriate for the auction purpose.

This is not going to be an easy or fast fix. It's going to take time to desensitize her and make her comfortable around and in the car. She's terrified on top of being a pretty anxious dog in the first place. You may need to resort to anti anxiety medication or CBD (if that's legal where you are) to help her work through her fear. Follow the above suggestions and remember to use *extremely* high value treats in the beginning - roasted chicken or beef, cooked liver, hamburger patties - whatever is the thing she LOVES the most. Keep sessions very short - only a few minutes at a time - and try to end on a positive note, even if that's only her taking one step towards the car. Significantly lower your expectations for what success looks like, and be happy with tiny victories. If you have a secure garage area where you can both just sit and be around the car, that would be where I would begin. Put a bed in the garage as close to the car as she will relax and just sit there. Read a book or magazine, watch a show, do some knitting for 5 minutes at a time until she's not panicking, and laying down. Then move the bed closer in *small* increments until you can get her inside the car. Good luck!

Greyhounds are much better people trainers than people are greyhound trainers!!!! Good job Buddy!!!

I would suspect that any leather muzzle that did it's job stopping her from eating would restrict her airflow and ability to drink water. She might also see it as some sort of chew toy and not a tool! Just be aware that she *is* playing you. I guarantee she is used to wearing her basket muzzle, and is testing her boundaries. Greyhounds are excellent people trainers!! At the link Ducky provided above, try one of the Irish Padded Basket Muzzles. They are *significantly* lighter than a regular basket muzzle, and the nose piece is lined with leather. Yet it provides the safety of a basket muzzle. One of mine hated her regular muzzle but wears the Irish with no problems. If she just needs some encouragement to wear her muzzle with better grace, try praise-n-treating her whenever you put it on. Whenever you see her start to rub or pay attention to something she shouldn't, call her name and distract her with a treat *you* provide - not one off the sidewalk. You can also smear the inside with peanut butter and have her wear it in the house. If she's persistent in trying to eat things she shouldn't, put a "stool guard" in the front of the muzzle. It's basically a plastic cup that fastens onto the front of the muzzle and blocks them from getting at illegal items. If you're determined to try a leather muzzle, you might search out police dog sites, or search-and-rescue. There are tons of greyhound collar makers who work in leather who might be able to work with you on a project.

I love the sisal rugs - you can just take them out and spray them in the summer!! DON!!!!!! I want that runner!!!! Where did Chris get it????

Littermates - the missing ear tattoos do exist on a dog somewhere. If you're looking on Greyhound Data, you can also search for dogs by tattoos. They may have been delayed getting registered, or went to be adopted before they even started training. But dogs are tattooed at, like, 6 or 8 weeks, so all those letters of the alphabet that are missing were put on a puppy at some point. Tail wagging - some do, some don't, some develop the habit later on. If he's particularly anxious or shy it might take him a while. Prey Drive - low prey drive is probably the reason he went to adoption so quickly. It's a function of their genetics, and bred into them, so it doesn't come and go or develop later on in life. Even dogs from the same litter can have vastly varying prey drives Zoomies - he just might not want to play where you can see him. A lot of anxious dogs prefer not to be watched. This should change as he becomes more comfortable. Sleeping - totally normal. Completely, totally normal. ETA - Here's his Greyhound Data page where you can see his pedigree. No other sibs listed though, so I bet they never trained or raced. It's highly doubtful they're dead. CET Chukln Chuck

Merry Christmas to you and all the Campers!!

Lilly's the same way. Plus also, she has a *very* thick coat - like a lab! - and it takes for-ev-er for her to get dry!!! I'm with Mark - I don't need that kind of negativity falling from the sky!!!!

I bet dogs love the smell of cookies baking as much as humans do!!!

Way to go, Mark!!!!

This is an excellent article and a good reminder for all dog guardians, no matter how many dogs you've had. The job of training a dog is never finished. The 7 Habits of Highly Effective Dog Owners

{{{hugs}}} Our first greyhound was also a beautiful white faced brindle girl. She was a bounce from a situation where her first Mom needed to move to a nursing facility due to a stroke, but no one wanted Libby because she had seizures. We were "just looking" at a meet-n-greet, and left owning a greyhound. Dude, Copper, Cash, Toni, Dorie - all were fosters who never left. Whiskey and Lilly were the first greyhounds we adopted from the jump (and also the first without behavioral or health issues needing to be sorted, or bounces). Then came Felicity, Atom, and Andi. Those were just the ones that lived with us. So many new friends and dogs we've met because we have greyhounds now.

Like Don, I would suspect a change in the food, or his treats, if *nothing* else has changed. Though the manufacturing company is unlikely to tell you the truth about if they've had to change their formulation or not. Here in the states, there aren't any rules regulating ingredients for dog foods - they can sub or change things as they wish as long as minimal standards of quality are met - so commercial foods actually change quite frequently. A popular Purina variety was switched up about 18 months ago, without telling anyone, and so many dogs had issues resulting from whatever they changed!! But it's also possible that dogs develop an allergy or intolerance to an ingredient over time. If you can't find out anything about a recipe change, you might try switching him for a short time to a home cooked bland diet (a low fat protein different from what's in his current food, and a low fat carb source like pasta or overcooked rice) to see if that makes a difference in his emissions. Also something to talk about with your vet if it persists.