Long Nails

[Guest sophiesmum]

Hi all,

 

I just wanted to start by saying that the advice I've received on this forum has been soooo helpful. Especially with regards to diet. I didn't actually post about this (didn't need to as there were plenty of helpful posts already) but when Shadow had terrible colitis Batmoms advice re Iams has really saved the day.

 

Anyway, on to the actual question: Sophie has really dark nails, but if I shine a torch through I can see the end of the quick and can see when to stop trimming. My problem is that even if her nails are trimmed as close as I can get to the quick they are still long enough to touch the floor.

 

Is there truth to the theory that the quick will grow into the nail if they are left long? If so, then are they destined to stay that way? I assume that this is what has happened in the past.

 

I don't want her to be uncomfortable with long nails. What can I do about this?

[silverfish]

Firstly, don't get too anxious about this.

 

There are people who like to keep their dogs' nails super-short and think everyone else should do so too, but really, unless they are so long that they're pushing the toes sideways when she stands it is not a problem if they touch the floor, unless your house is all tile or hardwood. On slippery surfaces, it's probably better if the nails don't actually touch the surface when the dog is standing - although Ranger is fine on all surfaces and his nails are longer than I'd really like.

 

To answer your question: yes, the quick will grown into the nail if they are left overlong, and the theory is that if you keep them clipped as short as possible, then the quick will retreat. It's true up to a point, but several of my dogs have had nails which grow out quite straight and don't hit the floor with the tip, so the quick never does retreat. Ranger is like that.

 

Yesterday, trying to get his nails a tad shorter (and he HATES having them clipped) I quicked him. I think he must have walked into every single downstairs room leaving trails of blood before I decided enough was enough and I took him down to the vet to have it cauterised! Styptic powder didn't work, pressure didn't work. I tried for over an hour, but it would stop for a while and then begin again.

 

Ranger gets two good walks a day, mostly on pavement, so if his quicks were going to retreat, they'd have done so. His (black) nails were longish, I tried to shave a tad too much off them and quicked my dog, causing him stress and me a truckload of scrubbing and laundry plus a vet fee. I've had dogs since 1994, and I can count on one hand the number of times I've quicked a dog in that time, so I'm not exactly an amateur, but it happens.

 

I just tell you this because reading Greytalk, it's sometimes easy for new people to believe there is ONE way to do something, and this is a good example. Our (UK) vets don't worry too much if a dog's nails aren't super short, providing they don't distort the toes when the dog is standing (many dogs' nails grown in weird directions, so check what they're like when he's lying down, too).

 

One exception is the dewclaws. If you don't keep them short, they can catch on things - even long grass - and break.

Edited February 15, 2012 by silverfish

[Guest cruzNhounds]

The first time I made one of my hounds scream was the last time, clippers tossed into the trash! We dremel the nails now, easy peasy

 

edit to add....I like to hear a little tap tap (we have laminate floors) cause we have some sneaky girls who...well lets just say are a little

Edited February 15, 2012 by cruzNhounds

[Guest KennelMom]

Long (overgrown) nails prevent the foot from rising and falling properly and can lead to problems - nothing life or death, but still...it may just be a matter of them being uncomfortable. Especially in an older hound who may already have arthritis in their feet. In a younger hound, there is a great risk for dislocated and broken toes if allowed to free run on hard ground with overgrown nails. So, nails should be kept trim. How short is too short is somewhat personal, but I do think they should not touch the ground when the dog is in a natural standing position. That usually allows them to lift the foot naturally w/o putting pressure on the nail bed and w/o having to modify their natural gait.

 

Dogs will vary in how quickly/far their quicks grow out. Some will have quicks that keep pace with the end of the nail so it takes a LONG time to work them back if they get out of control. Others have quicks that barely grow, so you're able to trim back a lot of length before you get to the quick, even if the nail is allowed to get overgrown somewhat.

 

I've found a dremel (handheld rotary tool) is the easiest tool for trimming nails and, especially, for working back quicks. Most dogs accept it without too much fuss. We only have a a couple that get worked up.

Edited February 15, 2012 by KennelMom

[cleptogrey]

Long (overgrown) nails prevent the foot from rising and falling properly and can lead to problems - nothing life or death, but still...it may just be a matter of them being uncomfortable. Especially in an older hound who may already have arthritis in their feet. In a younger hound, there is a great risk for dislocated and broken toes if allowed to free run on hard ground with overgrown nails. So, nails should be kept trim. How short is too short is somewhat personal, but I do think they should not touch the ground when the dog is in a natural standing position. That usually allows them to lift the foot naturally w/o putting pressure on the nail bed and w/o having to modify their natural gait.

 

Dogs will vary in how quickly/far their quicks grow out. Some will have quicks that keep pace with the end of the nail so it takes a LONG time to work them back if they get out of control. Others have quicks that barely grow, so you're able to trim back a lot of length before you get to the quick, even if the nail is allowed to get overgrown somewhat.

 

I've found a dremel (handheld rotary tool) is the easiest tool for trimming nails and, especially, for working back quicks. Most dogs accept it without too much fuss. We only have a a couple that get worked up.

 

dogs nails which are dremeled need to be dremeled far more often. it only takes a tad off and shapes them nicely. when i work on a dog w/ long nails i start by clipping them at least once a week for around 2 months and dremeling them to shape them if they tolerate the dremel. then i go to a 2 week clipping/shaping cycle then eventually every 2-3 weeks. i take only a tiny bit off and shape the nails that's why i do it so often when i am trying to get their quick back. generally quick stop does a good job if you get the tip of the quick. if you cut the entire quick it does bleed.

[kudzu]

I could never get overgrown nails any shorter using clippers. Friction on the nails seems to cause the quick to recede. The people who have success getting nails shorter using clippers are also walking their dogs long distances are rough surfaces. Mine don't get that a lot. Depending on your circumstances you might not get the quicks to recede much using clippers. The only thing that has worked for me is a Dremel or similar product.

 

Having long nails can be bad for your dog's health. It can change their gait, affect their feet including causing basically flat footedness. It can leave them more susceptible to dislocated toes, nails being ripped off, slipping on smooth surfaces, etc. etc. & on & on.

 

My dogs don't have super short nails but I do try to keep them as short as I can. Some came with merely long nails that were not hard to get back to a safe length with a Dremel. Others came with what looked like scimitars, crazy long nails that looked painful & took quite a while to get back. The big hindrance of course is how long the quicks are on those nails. Without a Dremel my dogs would be doomed.

 

What disturbs me most is the number of well loved, older hounds walking around with scimitars at the end of their toes at the time in their life when they most need the comfort & improved traction that comes from shorter nails. Their owners seem oblivious.

[JAJ2010]

I try to dremel every week. Should probably do it twice a week... I try to keep those nails as short as possible and yes the quicks will recede with a dremel. We just do 4-5 quick swipes of the nail at a time. I'm just paranoid about sprained toes while they run outside and that "click click click" while they walk makes me crazy!

[Guest verthib]

The more you trim little by little, the quick will move back slowly and you can get the nails shorter. I personally don't keep my dogs' nails too long because when they walk, long nails push the knuckles up which isnt that comfirtable for them. They aren't super short, I'd say they are average. They just barely touch the floor.

[Guest Sonya_Thomas]

Thanks for this post, and all the responses. We have had Rosie since late November and only have had her nails clipped and dremmelled twice since then. I did not realize how fast they grew, not how frequently they need to be trimmed. I tried clipping them myself last week, and she was not cooperative. I was terrified of quickking her so I just gave up and decided to take her back in to the groomer. Now that I realize just how frequently her nails need to be trimmed, I plan to buy a dremmel and learn to do this myself. I thought I had read on another post that a particular dremmel head works best. Can someone comment on their preferred dremmel head? Also, what are they best clippers? I think the ones I borrowed were not that great.

 

Thanks,

 

Sonya

[Yamaha_gurl]

Can someone post a pic of what perfect length nails are?

[Guest jettcricket]

I do my kids twice a month with the dremel. I've seen some hounds with painfully long nails...it makes me cringe. I do know, however, that some dogs are really difficult to do. My Hollie is sooo hard to dremel so i do sympathize, but I get it done. With much patience and soothing.

[GreyTzu]

Dremal directions.

[kudzu]

Dremal directions.

Yep. That's the Dremelling bible. It's how I got started. Even though I was scared half to death. Practice & many, many millisecond touches to the nail tip helped build up my own comfort level.

[silverfish]

Long (overgrown) nails prevent the foot from rising and falling properly and can lead to problems - nothing life or death, but still...it may just be a matter of them being uncomfortable. Especially in an older hound who may already have arthritis in their feet. In a younger hound, there is a great risk for dislocated and broken toes if allowed to free run on hard ground with overgrown nails. So, nails should be kept trim. How short is too short is somewhat personal, but I do think they should not touch the ground when the dog is in a natural standing position. That usually allows them to lift the foot naturally w/o putting pressure on the nail bed and w/o having to modify their natural gait.

 

 

 

 

What disturbs me most is the number of well loved, older hounds walking around with scimitars at the end of their toes at the time in their life when they most need the comfort & improved traction that comes from shorter nails. Their owners seem oblivious.

 

 

Yes, it's a personal preference to some extent. I would agree that nails should be kept trimmed to a healthy length. But what do we mean by 'healthy length'? Scimitar length is clearly wrong, and I've seen elderly dogs who are suffering badly from over-long nails, which is so unnecessary!

 

Obviously, the nails should not be so long that they push the toes out of shape, but in dogs that are allowed to be very active on hard surfaces and wear their nails down naturally, they do tend to just touch the ground. I take this as an indication that nail contact with the ground is almost certainly a natural part of the dog's biomechanical walking action.

 

I know it's controversial on GT that we tend to allow our dogs - if they have the right temperament and trainability - to run free while walking in suitable areas. Having said that, we have kept dogs in this manner since 1994 and have never had a toe injury from running on a variety of surfaces. Only the odd cut from broken glass - which, BTW, has been on tarmacked or concrete paths when they've been on leash.

 

 

 

I've found a dremel (handheld rotary tool) is the easiest tool for trimming nails and, especially, for working back quicks. Most dogs accept it without too much fuss. We only have a a couple that get worked up.

 

dogs nails which are dremeled need to be dremeled far more often. it only takes a tad off and shapes them nicely. when i work on a dog w/ long nails i start by clipping them at least once a week for around 2 months and dremeling them to shape them if they tolerate the dremel. then i go to a 2 week clipping/shaping cycle then eventually every 2-3 weeks. i take only a tiny bit off and shape the nails that's why i do it so often when i am trying to get their quick back. generally quick stop does a good job if you get the tip of the quick. if you cut the entire quick it does bleed.

 

Agreed. Unfortunately, I have never had a nervous dog who has tolerated the dremel well. I'm pretty sure Sid would, but his nails are no problem to clip. Ranger would hit the ceiling if I attempted to come near his feet with one. It's been bad enough trying to get him to allow me to simply hold a foot without him freaking out .. so I'm really annoyed with myself for having quicked him.

[KF_in_Georgia]

dogs nails which are dremeled need to be dremeled far more often.

 

I'm going to disagree with this one. You can safely get closer to the quick with a Dremel than with a clipper. That means I can safely take off much more nail with a Dremel, and thus I need to grind nails less often--not more often.

 

Just don't grind a single nail for too long. If a nail is overgrown and needs lots of grinding, do it in stages. Grind a bit, move to another nail, move back to the first after it's cooled down, etc.

[Guest verthib]

Thanks for this post, and all the responses. We have had Rosie since late November and only have had her nails clipped and dremmelled twice since then. I did not realize how fast they grew, not how frequently they need to be trimmed. I tried clipping them myself last week, and she was not cooperative. I was terrified of quickking her so I just gave up and decided to take her back in to the groomer. Now that I realize just how frequently her nails need to be trimmed, I plan to buy a dremmel and learn to do this myself. I thought I had read on another post that a particular dremmel head works best. Can someone comment on their preferred dremmel head? Also, what are they best clippers? I think the ones I borrowed were not that great.

 

Thanks,

 

Sonya

 

If you're new to dremmeling please please be careful. It heats up REAL fast. We don't use it because of that. If you're nervous, just muzzle her and that will take some of the edge off until you're comfortable.

[Guest KennelMom]

Yes, it's a personal preference to some extent. I would agree that nails should be kept trimmed to a healthy length. But what do we mean by 'healthy length'? Scimitar length is clearly wrong, and I've seen elderly dogs who are suffering badly from over-long nails, which is so unnecessary!

 

 

I think it is hard to have a hard and fast rule for the "right" length....it can vary from hound to hound and the size/shape of the foot, their activity level and things like that. I just eyeball them and keep them as short as looks "right" on that dog's foot when they're standing and walking. Right now all my dogs have nails longer than I prefer b/c it's really hard to dremel over this big belly...another reason I prefer to keep them on the shorter side - it gives me a little leeway when I get too busy (or pregnant) to dremel as often as I like.

[BootsyCollins]

I have never trimmed Bootsy's nails. Not once. I've had him for 3 years. His nails are not overgrown - they just touch the ground when he stands. His toes are in alignment. He gets two walks per day on sidewalks and that seems to work fine for keeping them to a normal length. When we had Argos, I trimmed his nails sporadically, when I thought they needed it. He was terrified of the dremmel at first and eventually he started sleeping through it.

[Batmom]

If you're new to dremmeling please please be careful. It heats up REAL fast. We don't use it because of that. If you're nervous, just muzzle her and that will take some of the edge off until you're comfortable.

 

I use a sandpaper drum with a rubber core on my dremel, and it barely heats up through two dogs' toenails -- pleasantly warm is about it. A sanding disk is more likely to get hot.

 

If you take the nails down to the quick every day or every other day, you'll usually see the quick start to recede in @ 3 weeks. Takes some commitment although after the first time, subsequent days are really just a lick and a promise -- 3 minutes max.

[Feisty49]

I've had Annie Bella since July. Her nails were a good length when I got her and I've had to trim them only twice. The first time I did it with clippers but wasn't happy with the results. The second time I took her to a groomer who did a great job with the Dremel. It cost me $15 and it is money well spent, at least for me. Annie Bella does most of her walking on macadam or concrete, which is, I assume, why her nails don't need to be trimmed often.

Edited February 15, 2012 by Feisty49

[Guest sophiesmum]

thanks for all your replies, very helpful, especially the dremel advice. I will look into getting one. I didnt realise that this is the same tool that you can buy from the hardware store. I had been looking for these in pet stores instead.

[GreytHoundPoet]

A friend of mine posted a blog about nail care/grinding. Her dogs are Dobes but the article is good. http://www.prairiedobecompanion.com/2011/02/nail-care-is-part-of-responsible-dog.html

[Guest mcsheltie]

Be aware of your own hair while Dremeling. I am not going to go into details on how I learned that painful lesson

 

As far as the dog goes, don't leave the Dremel on a nail for too long. Count to five and move on to the next one. One of my girls will scream if I do a nail for very long (even if I am no where near the quick) With her I usually go around each foot about four times. If I stayed on each nail until it gets down to where I want it she would have a fit.

 

The pet store varieties do not last. Oster makes a decent one, but a Dremel is better.

[Guest verthib]

 

As far as the dog goes, don't leave the Dremel on a nail for too long. Count to five and move on to the next one. One of my girls will scream if I do a nail for very long (even if I am no where near the quick).

 

I think that's because it heats up and it burns. Very painful.

[Guest mcsheltie]

 

As far as the dog goes, don't leave the Dremel on a nail for too long. Count to five and move on to the next one. One of my girls will scream if I do a nail for very long (even if I am no where near the quick).

 

I think that's because it heats up and it burns. Very painful.

Yup, that's right.