Training In A Multi Dog Household

[Remolacha]

This summer, while it is too hot to do much outside, I thought I would work on some training. Look-at-me for Fletcher (again ) and down/wait/go-to-place for Sallie and Molly. However, I need some tips on how to work with one dog while keeping the others from distracting us. "Whatcha doin'?" "Can I play too?" "MeMeMe"

 

BTW, I've never used crates, don't even own one, so crating the nonstudents isn't an option.

[TheFullHouse]

I take the one I want to train outside and leave the others inside. They're not thrilled but that's the way it goes. Trying to train one with others around is almost impossible for me. Mine are too easily distracted. Heck, the kids next door in the swimming pool will draw their attention away from me so I try to do it when it's quiet outside.

[FiveRoooooers]

Can you baby gate the others while you work with one?

[Guest Tequila]

Is there someone else in the household who could take the others for a walk, while you work with one (alone)?

[Remolacha]

I have a pretty small house, I can't think of a room I could baby gate the others in without them still being able to see and whine , and it's just me, so no one to unload the others on!

 

I can try going outside and leaving the others inside, it'll have to be early before it gets too hot, but since Molly starts whining at first light, around 4-4:30, early shouldn't be a problem

 

Thanks!

[Batmom]

I either go outside with the trainee, baby gate the other(s) and ignore the whining, or (most common) recruit grammy to keep the other(s) amused.

[Remolacha]

I either go outside with the trainee, baby gate the other(s) and ignore the whining, or (most common) recruit grammy to keep the other(s) amused.

 

Would grammy like to come visit Phoenix? I am sure the dogs would love to see her

[NeylasMom]

Babygate and ignore the whining or if you can do so safely, give them each treats (stuffed kongs, bully sticks, etc.) to keep them occupied. You really do need to keep them separate initially. You might want to consider making your first training tasks teaching each dog to lie quietly on his own mat so that you don't always have to separate them.

[Guest sheila]

well here is a training schedule for you. One at a time train each dog into a 'lay down' and then a 'stay'. When every dog has learned this then this problem is solved because the others will be 'laying and staying' while you work on the next thing with the other.

[GeorgeofNE]

I have lots of training books, and in one of my favorites the author/trainer (a professional who works with a lot of police dogs and such) tells of a dog who was always in a kennel with a view to where he was training another dog. One day he looked over at her and saw that she was obeying commands he was giving to the dog he was training!

 

Another vote here for training one at a time outside, or in a large room with the others baby gated out.

[Guest iconsmum]

Yes, I'm with you...tricky, isn't it? LOL

First thing I take everybody individually and teach a decent stand/stay - this takes a while sometimes but it's the only thing you really need to have down pat for this to begin

I have 3, so I assign everybody their own spot on the floor, and nobody moves...i.e. everybody's working on their "stand/stay"...dogs that break are moved quietly back into place...

then we work on, say, "spin", one try at a time, = dog 1, dog 2, dog 3,... dog 1, dog 2, dog 3, etc

(by now, everybody's brains are leaking out their ears because they're multi-tasking - stay and learning spin)

So we work toward doing a spin in unison as we get better, and the sessions only last 15 minutes or so. When I announce "all done" everybody crawls off for a nap ))

I know dogs don't train to a cue by observation, but there is a group dynamic that I like for sure that carries over to any time you're handling the group, say, onleash...

the only hitch here is that if you're c/t'g, you can poison the clicker, so I use a soft 'yes' directed at that dog. The alternative would be to choose a unique maker for each - say a pen click, a tongue click, ,"uh-huh", or a finger snap...that way the clicker can still be universal but each dog has a private bridge...Giselle, are you reading this? I need a nap now...

Edited June 8, 2011 by iconsmum

[FiveRoooooers]

well here is a training schedule for you. One at a time train each dog into a 'lay down' and then a 'stay'. When every dog has learned this then this problem is solved because the others will be 'laying and staying' while you work on the next thing with the other.

 

But this comes back to the OPs question: how to work with one while keeping the others from distracting the one she's working with.

[Guest sheila]

well here is a training schedule for you. One at a time train each dog into a 'lay down' and then a 'stay'. When every dog has learned this then this problem is solved because the others will be 'laying and staying' while you work on the next thing with the other.

 

But this comes back to the OPs question: how to work with one while keeping the others from distracting the one she's working with.

 

one only trains the one dog to stay, the others do what they want and the OP ignores them. Call it focusing on the one dog if you like. If this is problematic then the other dogs go somewhere else (outside or inside). The point is that once all dogs know 'stay', training other things is less of a trial.

[Remolacha]

OK, so we'll see how this goes. Trainee outside with me, other two in the house (peering out the window, no doubt!). Once I have a reliable "stay", move on to the next dog, same scenario. Once all three are trained to reliabley stay, I could go on to more training, but the summer will be over by then

[MTFSTHNDS]

I have 4 dogs and have tried working with one downstairs while the rest are at the top peering through the baby gate. It works fairly well, I just need to be more consitent in my training.

[Guest TDotGreys]

I train one dog with the other two around. They serve as great distraction, and it never hurts for them to learn when they are being addressed (as well of course when they are NOT). Dogs do learn that when you are not working with them, there will be no reward for performance. I also use training with one dog as a good time to work on a long down with the others.

Edited June 12, 2011 by TDotGreys

[Guest RichardUK]

I train separately - Usually use 8 x 4 hardboard sheet over the back door so the two inside can't see out and closes the dog door - also give the two inside a big bone each to keep them busy (they don't quarrel) - they do sometimes whine softly but the trainee and I ignore it. No crates ever used either.

 

But some training needs to be together so use long leashes (like lunge leads)sometimes with leash stops (like enormous corkscrews into the ground) so I can keep them apart (otherwise they tend to play chase to start with)

[NeylasMom]

I train one dog with the other two around. They serve as great distraction, and it never hurts for them to learn when they are being addressed (as well of course when they are NOT). Dogs do learn that when you are not working with them, there will be no reward for performance. I also use training with one dog as a good time to work on a long down with the others.

I agree with this to an extent, but when you're just starting off teaching a new behavior, I think you need to be able to work separately with them. If you're proofing a behavior by adding in distraction, then it makes sense to have the other dogs around, but initially you need the dog to be able to focus on you, and unless you're a particularly astute trainer, I also think you need to be able to focus on the dog you are working with.

[Remolacha]

Yeah, in addition to trying to train an ADHD dog, I am not a very confident trainer, so I think I need to focus, with as few distractions as possible, in the beginning

 

Thanks for everyones suggestions!

[Guest TDotGreys]

I train one dog with the other two around. They serve as great distraction, and it never hurts for them to learn when they are being addressed (as well of course when they are NOT). Dogs do learn that when you are not working with them, there will be no reward for performance. I also use training with one dog as a good time to work on a long down with the others.

I agree with this to an extent, but when you're just starting off teaching a new behavior, I think you need to be able to work separately with them. If you're proofing a behavior by adding in distraction, then it makes sense to have the other dogs around, but initially you need the dog to be able to focus on you, and unless you're a particularly astute trainer, I also think you need to be able to focus on the dog you are working with.

 

I learned, living in a large city, that for some dogs there is no such thing as training a new behaviour in the absence of distraction. There is no such thing as slowly adding distractions, or controlling the environment. I learned to filter everything but the dog out (yes, it makes me look rude when people try to pet my dog and I heel on past them) and I learned that my dog is quicker and better for it all. Heck, he actually learned 2 on 2 off targeting on the A-frame at the dog park. And that wouldn't have been possible if he hadn't already learned most of his obedience and focus under distraction.

 

Once I got my head around the concept that a dog learns BETTER and quicker this way, it all made sense why sport handlers have such focus and work ethic from their dogs. It totally changed my beliefs about how dogs learn best, and changed how I worked with my own dogs. I stopped trying to restrict training to empty parks (good luck!) and quiet times on the street.

 

For some it may not be the right route, but I just wanted to suggest an alternative view to the whole gradually adding distraction concept. It is far more productive (IMO, IME) and creates a more focused dog, if rather than trying to add distraction a little at a time (the old fashioned way) instead try working SUB-THRESHOLD in the presence of high distraction. Why? Because then your dog's ability to learn in the presence of high distraction actually improves! Threshold gets greater! With adding distraction slowly, you never really do much to improve the dog's ability to learn under distraction, and you are forced to control the environment on an ongoing basis when teaching new behaviours. You are also forced to proof, whereas the whole proofing concept is gone (well, changed and much lessened) when teaching sub threshold with distraction.

 

End tangent.

 

Edited June 14, 2011 by TDotGreys

[NeylasMom]

I train one dog with the other two around. They serve as great distraction, and it never hurts for them to learn when they are being addressed (as well of course when they are NOT). Dogs do learn that when you are not working with them, there will be no reward for performance. I also use training with one dog as a good time to work on a long down with the others.

I agree with this to an extent, but when you're just starting off teaching a new behavior, I think you need to be able to work separately with them. If you're proofing a behavior by adding in distraction, then it makes sense to have the other dogs around, but initially you need the dog to be able to focus on you, and unless you're a particularly astute trainer, I also think you need to be able to focus on the dog you are working with.

 

I learned, living in a large city, that for some dogs there is no such thing as training a new behaviour in the absence of distraction. There is no such thing as slowly adding distractions, or controlling the environment. I learned to filter everything but the dog out (yes, it makes me look rude when people try to pet my dog and I heel on past them) and I learned that my dog is quicker and better for it all. Heck, he actually learned 2 on 2 off targeting on the A-frame at the dog park. And that wouldn't have been possible if he hadn't already learned most of his obedience and focus under distraction.

 

Once I got my head around the concept that a dog learns BETTER and quicker this way, it all made sense why sport handlers have such focus and work ethic from their dogs. It totally changed my beliefs about how dogs learn best, and changed how I worked with my own dogs. I stopped trying to restrict training to empty parks (good luck!) and quiet times on the street.

 

For some it may not be the right route, but I just wanted to suggest an alternative view to the whole gradually adding distraction concept. It is far more productive (IMO, IME) and creates a more focused dog, if rather than trying to add distraction a little at a time (the old fashioned way) instead try working SUB-THRESHOLD in the presence of high distraction. Why? Because then your dog's ability to learn in the presence of high distraction actually improves! Threshold gets greater! With adding distraction slowly, you never really do much to improve the dog's ability to learn under distraction, and you are forced to control the environment on an ongoing basis when teaching new behaviours. You are also forced to proof, whereas the whole proofing concept is gone (well, changed and much lessened) when teaching sub threshold with distraction.

 

End tangent.

 

I guess I don't really get the distinction of sub-threshold versus low distraction that you make here. What is sub-threshold except a low enough level of stimulation/distraction that the dog can learn, but is not overwhelmed? How can you have sub-threshold with high distraction unless your dog is already capable of working with a high level of distraction because either 1) you've worked him up to that over time with at least training of some behaviors or 2) you have a dog who naturally has a good bit of self control and focus?

 

Regardless, my comments about this were specifically in response to the OP's question and subsequent suggestions, along with the assumption that the OP is someone who has perhaps done a little bit of basic training with her dogs but not much and wanted some guidance on continuing that, not getting a dog so capable of working in distracting environments that he can compete in agility competitions. In this case, we're talking about a very specific type of distraction, other dogs in the same room. To me, this likely means dogs who are hovering around the working dog and trainer, and quite possibly physically getting in the working dog's space and/or trying to take the treats being offered as a reward to the working dog. I don't think my assumptions are far off given the OP's specific description of the other dog's behavior: "Whatcha doin'?" "Can I play too?" "MeMeMe". In my opinion, that isn't a good set up for success for a dog and/or a trainer relatively new to training. Plus it doesn't answer the OP's original question, which was how could she separate the dogs so that she could work with one at a time.

 

Remolacha, sorry for the dog training theory tangent.

[Remolacha]

NeylasMom, don't apologize, tangents are always informative However, you got my situation exactly right! Perhaps I should have added, I would be doing the training either in my fenced in yard, with the other dogs in the house, or training in the house, with the other dogs in the yard, not on the street or in a park. Fletcher flunked out of racing school because he "lacked focus", and trying to train him on "look at me" while walking has been a complete failure, so I want to start over in an environment with as few distractions as possible! The girls just need some work on down and wait.

 

I do appreciate everyone's ideas, even if they don't really apply to my situation right now