3greytjoys

Welcome to GreyTalk! Congratulations on your recent Greyhound adoption! I'd agree with others to completely eliminate your new hound's sofa privileges for many reasons (present and future). Consider as your son grows, he will want to have friends visit and sit on the humans' furniture. Just like consistency is important for children, same holds true for dogs. Considering the dog's perspective, it's not fair to allow him on the sofa only sometimes but not other times, and then expect him to abide by confusing, inconsistent rules. Cushy padded dog beds in a safe place (away from traffic paths) are much safer for families with dogs. Dogs can feel relaxed and secure knowing their own dog bed is their undisturbed, happy, forever safe zone. Hubcitypam brought up a good point about soft strokes vs. pats (preferably on a dog's shoulder, side or upper thigh). Additionally, dogs often prefer their fur be stroked in the same direction as it's growth pattern. Oh yes, we completely understand that Greys are often in a recumbent position. That said, it's preferred to wait until dogs are standing up and have walked away from their safe bed zone before petting. Sometimes dogs' signs of discomfort are almost too subtle to notice: in addition to your points, could be a quick eye glance away, brief expression freeze, furrowed brow, stiffening lips in a C-shape, brief head turn away, whale eye, etc. You're right, ear position signals for other breeds don't count for Greyhounds. I agree that if your hound offers the gift of a growl, it's a valuable communication warning of dog's discomfort to which humans should respect and back away. Since he didn't offer a warning growl, he's probably feeling his space is being invaded too often, and he's "running out of spoons". Spoon theory: http://yourdogsfriend.org/spoon-theory-and-funny-dog-gifs/ Gently tossing treats at home could be helpful. Walks can be especially exciting (or stressful) for some recently retired Greyhounds, so I'd caution against your son holding any part of the leash secondary to an adult handler until he's much bigger, and your Greyhound has settled into retirement much longer. Newly retired Greyhounds can be especially unpredictable during walks. They can see small critters or a small piece of litter blowing in the wind a half mile away and may attempt to chase, so it's safer to avoid having a small child connected in any way to the dog's leash or even walking between the adult handler with Greyhound. As difficult as it is for your son, offering your new Greyhound extra personal space, and extra freedom to walk into a quiet room to retreat away from noise and activity will help their relationship long-term. Greyhounds are a wonderfully calm, quiet, and highly sensitive breed.

Crushing. I'm so deeply sorry, Kathy. I truly believe there is a significant reason that you and Jane found each other. She's in the very best, most loving and comforting place she could have landed. Her time living as part of your family will be her most valuable and appreciated time of life.

Depending on Jane's x-ray result; might be worth a second look at a possible adverse reaction to Interceptor. Since it stays in the body for a month(+/-), it might be a reason for Jane's sudden daily vomiting. No need to answer these questions here, just a few thoughts for you to consider/discuss with your vet: Was last December's Interceptor dose administered with food? What time of day was Interceptor administered on January 1, and was it given with food? When was her first vomiting episode thereafter on Jan. 2? Has vomiting improved whatsoever 11 days later? Where was the Interceptor purchased? If on-line source, how long did it sit in a mailbox or on porch (possibly exposed to sun or temperatures out of drug's safety range)? (You probably already know that many drug manufacturers will not guarantee medications if bought on-line due to counterfeit drugs; lack of supplier's storage safety control; and shipping problems. In contrast, manufacturers often pay for dogs' treatment if their guaranteed product caused a problem or didn't work to prevent a heartworm infestation.) Questions for your vet: What is Interceptor's life and half life? Does any of the drug accumulate within the body from month to month? Could Jane's prior Ivermectin dose overlap/react to Interceptor? Quote (re: active ingredient in Interceptor): "The most common clinical signs reported include ataxia, tremors, lethargy, vomiting, mydriasis, disorientation, and hypersalivation". End quote. Source: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4152460/

We'll keep positive thoughts for your beautiful Jane.

I suppose it depends on the tolerance and medical condition of the individual dog. One of our hounds was required to be under anesthesia for x-rays or other medical tests that normally don't require anesthesia.

Yes, excellent point! So probably no food for at least 12 hours prior to her vet appointment.

Yes. There are pet products made with this nubby design in mind for sofas, chairs, table tops. If you can't find anything in the dogs' section in your local pet stores/on-line, check the cat sections. Otherwise, try blocking off the sofa with items that won't harm a dog if the item falls on the dog. Depending on your sofa access, large palate size pieces of cardboard (e.g., often found near Costco's shredder inside the rear of the store) are great to block off the walking pathway to the sofa. I use that sturdy cardboard under crates and dog beds too.

Kibble manufacturers taught me that kibble is temperature sensitive. I was taught that it should never be stored in an outside container or even in a dry garage due to temperature fluctuations. That said, one of our hounds has always had an unpredictable appetite, so her uneaten wet kibble is placed in the refrigerator after about 15-30 minutes -- to limit bacteria build up. It's likely that some nutrients are damaged, but otherwise we would have been throwing away her breakfast about every other day for 10 years. Important side note: Kibble oils go rancid, and can contaminate new kibble. Kibble manufacturers recommend storing kibble inside the same bag in which it was purchased. If people dump fresh kibble into a pet food storage container, manufacturers recommend the container be washed with soap and water, rinsed very well, and dried very, very thoroughly before adding fresh kibble. Scoopers should be washed before each fresh bag of kibble is opened. I'd suggest contacting Daisy's kibble manufacturer to ask how long her dry kibble can be stored at room temperature once opened. If sealed tightly, it might last longer than you'd think.

I'd call the vet re: feeding breakfast. I'd be inclined to skip breakfast thinking a mass of kibble might slightly obscure something small in the x-ray(?).

Thanks for the additional information. A little more food for thought... In addition to eliminating upon awakening, most dogs need to eliminate after eating meals/consuming fluids. (Eating gets bowels moving.) Some need to eliminate within 15-20 minutes or within an hour of food intake. Hookworms; medications (e.g., Nexgard side effect); extra food; and dogs' stress in a new environment can contribute to loose stools. Loose stools often create a greater urgency to eliminate -- crated dogs only have their voice to call/alert that desperation. (BTW, hookworms often take more than one treatment series to completely eradicate. Fecal retests are important: a false negative is common depending on hookworms' growth stage.) Might be helpful to notice if his relapse days are usually on Mondays or Tuesdays. Some people find that keeping a similar schedule 7 days a week helps hounds adjust more easily. That said, you made an excellent point re: more of your neighbors being home to hear him vocalizing during weekends. Dogs are pack animals and need time with their humans, so it may take some creative juggling for a while. At the very least on weekends, keep practicing alone training within his (quiet) comfort threshold. Few more things to try: - If you don't have a cat/small pet: Baby-gate him into one of the family's most used rooms, leaving his crate door open for his padded, comfortable resting. Dog-proof the room (for Greyhound's height 5'-6' tall on hind legs). Helps if dogs do not have physical access to the door from which humans depart, i.e. create a buffer zone if possible. (I understand you left him out of his crate previously, but this space-controlled half-step makes a big difference for many hounds.) - No fanfare from humans during departures or returns. Some experts recommend humans silently slip out the door during departures; others suggest it's okay to say "I'll be back later" (or the like). My experience is silent departures work better for some dogs. - Encourage his independence by creating a little extra space wherever your hound rests while humans are home, i.e. place dog bed across the room from human's sofa (vs. dogs on the sofa or 6" from your feet!). Periodically reward hound by tossing treats to him for resting quietly on his own bed. Be ready with treats to teach "down" by capturing him when he's naturally about to lie down. Happily teach him "go to your place/bed" with treat reward. - Stay happy and positive in interactions. Don't scold him, especially for behavior rooted from fear/anxiety (anxiety is fear based); otherwise, it will backfire by him losing trust in humans, plus increase/magnify undesirable behaviors. If he snags a human's item by mistake, calmly "trade up" with a higher value toy or dog safe meat treat, etc. (BTW, if you eventually offer a Durachew toy, it's okay to smear it with plain peanut butter or lowfat cream cheese -- if enticement is needed.) Many people find this short booklet helpful: I'll Be Home Soon, by Patricia McConnell: https://www.amazon.com/Ill-Home-Soon-Separation-Anxiety/dp/1891767054/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484104489&sr=8-1&keywords=ill+be+home+soon Try to keep an open, caring mind. He sounds like a sweetheart, well worth your understanding effort.

You and Burke are in our understanding thoughts. Murray will be forever missed on GT too.

All of the above; additionally, when it happens overnight in winter, it might be a sign that she's too cold (chattering and possibly shivering). I often need to recover our hounds with a blanket (even when they're wearing jammies).

IMO, spray bottles as punishment for a dog's behavior is not desirable because it teaches dogs to distrust and shy away from their human; fear bottles; fear water being squirted (including hoses); and if they need to eliminate, they may do so indoors without first attempting to communicate to their humans -- since they learned their communication caused punishment. We need to use spray bottles frequently for cleaning off paws; spraying wound medications, etc. Helps a lot if dogs feel trusting of their humans and comfortable with spray bottles.

Sorry that your new boy is struggling. Seems that you're doing a great job trying to help him. - I'm curious about his schedule on non-work days? - What time does he eat breakfast on work days, and non-work days? - What time does he need outings on non-work days while humans are home? (Helps to keep a temporary time record initially.) - Are his stools firm? - Is he on any medications? OP Quote: "This problem didn’t start until after about a month in – the first month, he was very quiet when we left for work or if we went out at night. We could leave him for the full workday with no problems." End quote. ​ Surprisingly, that might have contributed to his difficulty. He started realizing he was being left alone, crated for very long periods (full workday + travel time, and sometimes at night). Greyhound kennels typically let hounds outside to eliminate every 4 hours starting early morning and throughout day until evening/night bedtime. While some of your boy's barking may be linked to learning to be an only dog for the first time in his life, feelings of anxiety/abandonment may have been silently building up during the first month. Additionally, crated dogs only method of communicating their need for a potty break is vocally (whether anyone is home to let him out or not). Great that you recently hired a mid-day dog walker to offer him a potty break. ​Xanax can have the opposite of desired affect on certain dogs. (Xanax increased one of our Greyhound's anxiety.) Helps to initially test medication effectiveness when humans are home (on non-work days) when hound is naturally relaxed. In your case (apartment + complaining neighbors), I would try a different medication, even if it takes time to build up in his system. When a dog is feeling anxiety, their brain is much less receptive to learning from alone training. Ideally, during alone training, a dog isn't left alone beyond his/her own comfort threshold. Since that isn't possible when pet parents work away from home, medication can help the dog relax enough to benefit from alone training (assuming hound gets elimination breaks). Even longer-term medication should be considered temporary, i.e. just use medication long enough to combine with alone training until dog is adjusted to his/her new life. ​You could try securing a floor level mirror directly across the room from his crate. (Ensure the mirror does not reflect any sun into his crate.) Seeing a Greyhound's reflection helps some new hounds feel less alone. ​If he's a chewer, Durabone - shaped like a flat fist with arm, "souper" size (made by Nylabone) could be used as a stress/boredom reliever after he finishes his Kongs. That specific Durabone is easy for Greyhounds to handle/chew. There's a potential for a chipped tooth with any hard toy but consider risk to benefit ratio for the behavior issue you're addressing. http://www.entirelypets.com/dchwbcnfls.html Seems your vet knows Greyhound blood values are different from other breeds, but might be worth checking your hound's numbers against link below. Quote per Making sense of Blood Work in Greyhounds: "Greyhounds have lower neutrophil counts than the reference range for dogs (3,000-10,000/μl or 3-10 X 109/L); thus, neutrophil counts as low as 1,800/μl (1.8 X 109/L) should not be of concern if the dog is healthy." End quote. Source: See Pages 3 and 4 here: http://www.greyhound-data.com/dir/446/Making_Sense_of_Blood_Work_in_Greyhounds.pdf Good luck.

Mike: Congratulations on your new family member, Dallas! Some of these challenges (worms; house training; and eating stuff that could be unsafe) are typical things we experience with newly adopted dogs. The spleen surgery is an exception (spay/neuter surgeries are typical). Not sure how long into surgery recovery he is now, or if walks might be uncomfortable for him, but you're right, it would be preferable if he's able to safely eliminate close to home during this most focused house training. Until you're able get the cat problem handled, perhaps someone in your adoption group could loan you a 4' tall exercise pen to set-up close to your house door (still within your main fenced back yard) as a temporary hound potty zone. Ex-pens can be set-up in a rectangle or U-shape using the house as one side to expand the pen's space. We opened an ex-pen to use as a flat fence (with metal fence posts) to fully enclose a side yard. Hang in there; your extra caring effort will be so well worth it in your long, loving relationship with Dallas.

Positive thoughts for Emma's speedy recovery! Hope she'll feel much better without that problematic digit. The IV bag paw cover works well for us, too. (That said, we weren't dealing with snow when our hound had a digit amputation.)

If you haven't seen Simon race, this link still has his active replays: http://www.trackinfo.com/dog.jsp?runnername=Sg%27s%20Mazeroski

What a treasure you have there. He traveled a long way to his forever home after racing in Palm Beach, Florida. My guess is that S. and G. are the racing owner's initials/kennel name.

I think this is a working link to the article BatterseaBrindl mentioned: http://www.northerngreyhoundadoptions.org/ThoughtsOfAGrey.php

This seems odd to me and I have a sensitive nose, too. None of our hounds (male or female) have had a poor odor (as long as their food was agreeing with them). They get a wipe down before and after social events or Meet & Greets but rarely ever need a full bath. Paws get washed off after leashed hikes. Does the kibble smell similarly to the hound's odor? If I recall correctly, Canidae ALS includes fish; could that be part of the odor? You didn't mention what people food she's eating at night, but perhaps she's having a negative reaction to those foods. I would launder her bedding in perfume-free laundry soap/detergent, and eliminate any scent beads, etc. Depending on the outcome of your vet visit (ruling out infection, etc.), a limited ingredient diet might be worth a try. Natural Balance might be one option. I use a soft, equine Oster finishing brush on our Greyhounds. If interested, I'd suggest buying one from your local equine store. (The quality of on-line brushes can be questionable.)

Do you know Simon's racing name?

Hqpcapps, if you happen to see this thread: How is Henry doing now after a couple of months working with him?

Our hound's case was fairly severe. Her reverse sneezing was happening multiple times per day, every day or every couple of days. Both long and short durations -- I suppose depending on how active the mites were at any given time. The long-term mite damage affected her ability to smell. She had a slightly drippy nose (clear), but it was assumed to have been from cold winter weather, and her separation anxiety. She was miserable from those pesky mites. Nasal mites can be transferred dog to dog but none of our other hounds (or cats) were infected with mites during the months prior to diagnosis and treatment. I doubt Simon has a foxtail, (he'd likely be going crazy pawing at his nose) but if your area has them, keep him out of tall grasses. They're usually more of a problem in spring and summer months. BTW, he's so gorgeous and I love his long, shapely tail. (Remember to be extra cautious of his tail when closing doors to house/car. Many hounds have had tail amputations from door injuries.)

Agree with reverse sneezing. He might have sniffed up a foreign body like a plant seed, etc., but if it's been an ongoing issue, I'd have a vet look for nasal mites, or nasal worms, etc. Upon adoption, one of our hounds suffered through many months of nasal mites before I finally diagnosed it. (Nasal mites were not problematic in our area so our local vets missed it.) They are easily treatable, and our hound has not had any recurrence in almost a decade.

Assuming it's a surface scrape and you're sure a vet doesn't need to clean, stitch or care for the gash to avoid infection, perhaps modifying this figure 8 technique could work: While keeping the wound dry, if needed, Bitter Yuck could be misted very lightly on the outside of the vet wrap bandage. Watch closely for infection heat or swelling.