3greytjoys

So glad you found Amicar on such immediate notice! I hope it helps Freight. Having three excessive bleeders, I feel for you. Several years ago, one of our hounds was finally stabilized after a scary O.R. experience (small masses removed), but then began bleeding at home... 30 hours later... at midnight. (I requested aminocaproic acid prior to surgery, but that's another story.) At that time, the ER vet didn't even stock it. The vets who handle more retired Greyhounds in our area now keep it stocked in their veterinary hospitals, including local ERs. Positive thoughts and prayers for Freight. Please post an update when you can.

A healthy pet weight indicator for Greyhounds is being able to see the last two ribs, and feel the third to last rib.

This fairly common behavior is called coprophagy. You're smart to remove stools immediately. Previous posters are right on point too: Prevent dog's access to stools. Avoid allowing dog any opportunity to eat stools (dog's own, cats, or other animals). Here are a few more suggestions: - Have vet run fecal test on your dog to ensure your dog is not fighting internal parasites, etc. - Regulate feeding times to better predict regular poop times. - Stay with the dog when outside for business breaks, even in your own yard. Scoop/bag/dispose of poop immediately. - If needed, leash escort dog to keep dog's head above ground level in poop areas. Don't let dog sniff under community bushes that you can't see underneath. Hold leash shorter if needed. - If night time, use small flashlight to clean up poop. If trouble seeing pile, bend down near ground level to shine flashlight sideways across ground area. It's often easier to see a raised mini-mountain pile from side view. - Some people immediately douse poop with Bitter Yuck, but you still have to be present. (Prevention is preferred.) - Ensure dog is getting enough nutrient healthy dog food, and is not actually hungry. If not nutrient/food/hunger related, another theory is some dogs begin this behavior when their momma dog cleans up after her litter of pups in whelping boxes. Most dogs give up the behavior as they mature, some don't. (Human follows our hound pack out for each business break. A few other benefits: Prevents hounds from stepping and tracking poop elsewhere; keeps flies away (nice if you have edible garden); good to watch hounds' eliminations to notice medical problems early; helps prevent inside accidents if unsupervised hound didn't finish doing all business outside.)

Agree with Batmom. One of our hounds has sleep startle and is not able to control it because she's asleep when it happens. She awakens snarling loudly with open mouth snapping. This happens daily (for years). We don't allow dogs with sleep startle on human furniture for everyones' safety (humans, plus the dog with sleep startle that could get blamed for an injury). We give her plenty of undisturbed space around the dog beds. Not all Greyhounds are candidates as furniture dogs (some dogs become more territorial over time). We recommend not allowing newly retired hounds on human furniture for at least 6 months and preferably much longer. Greyhounds blossom over a long period of time. Helpful to get to know the dog's true personality first. MUCH easier (and safer) to prevent a potential problem from starting (i.e., not allowing dog on furniture) rather than trying to correct heavily ingrained behavior later (trying to teach dog to stay off favorite furniture).

Our cat/s will fly over our tall baby-gates -- just for fun. They bank off the wall as a game. The safest option is crating the Greyhound at night, and when you leave the house unsupervised. We crate new fosters in the master bedroom at night (helps them transition nicely). We crate newbies downstairs when we leave the house (but we have multiple crates). New Greyhound/s + cat in house = not safe, even with muzzled hound. As others mentioned, dogs can seriously harm a cat with thier legs (even in play), or swatting a cat with their muzzled head. If you can't afford a sturdy metal crate at the moment, consider asking your adoption representative if they can round up a crate for you to rent or borrow. Glad things are going well with your new hound. Enjoy! ETA: I would be cautious about using a muzzle strap, or stool cup if you are asleep or away from the house. - However unlikely, adding a muzzle strap could potentially increase new dog's risk of catching muzzle + collar on something that could strangle dog by collar. - Dogs can drown themselves if they happen to vomit in a muzzle cup. When dogs vomit, their head is pointing down towards the ground creating a muzzle cup "bowl" effect, so vomit that can't drain fast out enough.

My heart is aching for you during this painful loss of your precious baby girl. Kisses and hugs are hitching a ride comforting Sorella as she crosses heaven's bridge. Send your momma a sign, Sorella. Godspeed pretty girl.

Please view this photo of a Greyhound lure. This is what racing Greyhounds are trained to chase at high speed outside. Greyhound lure link: http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=A2KJkP1BoONRhl4ABM2JzbkF;_ylu=X3oDMTFxYm1rN3VoBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZAMwNzgyOTBmNjI1MWEyZjBkNTI2OWNhZDRmYjY1MjNiNwRncG9zAzE-?back=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3F_adv_prop%3Dimage%26va%3Dgreyhound%2Blure%26fr%3Dyfp-t-900-s%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D1&w=504&h=378&imgurl=www.psgreyhounds.org%2FLure.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.psgreyhounds.org%2FCat%2520Safeness.htm&size=20.7KB&name=An+actual+%3Cb%3EGreyhound+%3C%2Fb%3Etraining+%3Cb%3Elure+%3C%2Fb%3Efrom+National+%3Cb%3EGreyhound+%3C%2Fb%3EAssociation+...&p=greyhound+lure&oid=078290f6251a2f0d5269cad4fb6523b7&fr2=&fr=yfp-t-900-s&tt=An+actual+%3Cb%3EGreyhound+%3C%2Fb%3Etraining+%3Cb%3Elure+%3C%2Fb%3Efrom+National+%3Cb%3EGreyhound+%3C%2Fb%3EAssociation+...&b=0&ni=21&no=1&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=11ela8aqc&sigb=13eh2o8rd&sigi=10tg4hhtr&.crumb=DkEjHcFRThA&fr=yfp-t-900-s Thousands of Greyhounds live very successfully with cats (our own Greyhound pack included), but we can never be too careful during their adjustment months, and beyond. I encourage you to take all these experienced peoples' responses to heart. (I've received many frantic calls about cats who met their demise. A baby-gate and muzzle, or crate, or dog leashed to human could have helped saved these cats' lives. People were home in these cases.) Revisiting the baby-gate topic. If you don't have an extra gate, I encourage you to add another tall baby-gate (installed 6" above floor level) in the room where you and your Greyhound spend the most time during the day. (Example: If you spend most time in the family room and kitchen, add a baby-gate in that doorway (or the next room's doorway), so hound is enclosed in one or two rooms. That will stop your new hound from being able to chase the cats too far, and will give the cats a much better chance to escape if a brief chase. Bonus that it will help ease housetraining, etc. (BTW, there are baby-gates with built-in cat doors. Just my opinion: I prefer 6" above floor installation. The cats have a much wider escape route (full width of human doorway); plus, it increases the height of the gate to help deter a hound from jumping over.

Yes, please do get a hall runner carpet. Also, very important to buy the same size, separate rubber gripper mat to place underneath the runner carpet to secure it in place. I would recommend the same for your kitchen. Many Greyhounds have had very dangerous slips and falls on hard surface floors. I knew a Greyhound that died from the injury.

Good thinking re: the baby-gate and your child bursting in the bedroom. Just want to reiterate that dogs are often silent and can move faster than a human, so during these early weeks, I would encourage you to keep hound's muzzle on even when you are in the same room whenever the cats are moving freely in the house. I imagine you already know this, but since you have a young child also. Just want to mention the golden rule: Please don't let anyone disturb your Greyhound when he is lying down resting on his bed or elsewhere on the floor. This includes bending over to pet him. It's safest to wait for the Greyhound to stand up before anyone (adult or child) gives him attention. Greys are used to sleeping in their own private space without being disturbed. Also, many Greyhounds sleep with their eyes open, so best to let resting dogs lie.

We've gone through about 5-6 Dremels. Our current Dremel is model 8000-03 which is working very well, and holds a charge nicely. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=8000-03&WT.ac=SPT_8000_8000-03 We also use 60 grit sanding bands, and sometimes 120 for an extra smooth finish. (If we leave nails too rough, they tear up our carpeting doing zoomies.) If newbies are reading: We're careful to not stay on one nail any longer than 3 seconds. This helps prevent painful heat build up in dogs' toes.

If you'd like to try a food transition, it's helpful to transition very gradually over about 4 weeks.

I'm guessing Bonnie would have given you the same reaction if she were on the floor when you were playing with her that way. She wasn't comfortable with the invasive interaction. Some Greyhounds blossom in retirement more quickly than others. We've had mature hounds continue becoming more comfortable and noticeably blossoming for two, three, or more years (usually in a wonderful way). Just my opinion, in my experience, I am not a fan of allowing dogs to relax/sleep on human furniture, especially not a human's bed. Dogs can't "talk" to tell us what they're thinking. Too many dogs (of any breed) can develop issues over time involving their individual sleeping space. We have a couple of extremely affectionate hounds that we will allow to place the front half of their body on our laps to snuggle, but that happens on the dogs' terms when they are standing up, wide awake, and desiring our affection. The dogs move off the lap the instant they're ready. The other hounds have no interest in that level of close contact. Greysmom: So true, and well written. I agree with Davros too.

You are doing the right thing by not allowing your new Greyhound to chase the cats. Ever. Running cats can look like prey, or live play toys to hounds whether during week one, or year ten - if hound is allowed to chase them. Neither of which are a positive result for the cats. Greyhounds are much faster runners than cats (or humans). Please keep your hound muzzled whenever your hound is out of his crate, and for longer than you think he needs it (even if you are in the same room). It might be weeks, or months until he truly views your cats as part of his family member pack. Most Greyhounds arrive understanding the word "no". Also good to eventually begin adding "leave it" (which they usually don't know until you begin teaching it). Do you have a tall baby-gate installed? If not, installing a tall baby-gate 5"- 6" above floor level is highly recommended, so your cats have an escape route into other safe rooms. Important to provide one completely safe "cat only" room, so the cats can retreat to sleep undisturbed where the hound can't reach them. Great to keep some large furniture (sofa, etc.) pulled several inches away from walls in rooms most frequented by the family, so the cats have other quick get-away zones, away from the dog. (Allow just enough space for cat to turn around.) Great if your cats live "indoors only". If not, avoid allowing your hound outside whenever cats are in your yard. Outside environment = game on. Some dogs may seem like they're only playing, but can harm a cat by snagging it like a toy, or prey, or pouncing on it with it's legs. Other than the cats running, it sounds like things are going fairly well so far. Enjoy your new hound!

Lots of good advice above. Whether she was being playful or not, it's good to remember that racing Greyhounds were not treated like "family dogs" in their earlier life. They were "athletes" with an important job to do - win or place in races. They're used to eating and sleeping undisturbed in their kennel. They are different from tiny puppies that grew up inside a family home with roughhousing. Greys (and many other dog breeds) don't understand that type of human-to-animal affectionately invasive playful behavior. Most retired racing Greyhounds are not considered a roughhousing breed. Many dogs (of any breed) don't like having their bellys rubbed, or having their fur rubbed the opposite direction of it's natural growth. Thankfully, it sounds like you're okay physically. Try not to worry about it, but it is safer to respect dogs' personal body. Playing with toys, and giving her gentle petting affection while she's standing up are much safer during the early months and beyond. Some groups recommend waiting at least six months and preferably longer before even considering whether or not to allow a dog on any human furniture. It can take that much time (or more) for a dog's personality to blossom.

Sounds like Audrey has entered into an awesome retired life with super fun, attentive, and caring humans. She's a very fortunate girl! Enjoy!

I'm curious what the flooring is in each of these rooms? Many Greyhounds (shy or not) don't feel comfortable walking into kitchens because there is no secure footing on the floor since kitchens are not usually carpeted.

Poor baby girl - no pain meds? I hope they sent her home with antibiotics? I agree about being prepared with a prescription, or a call to Costco pharmacy. (Although medications are not returnable, I believe if meds aren't picked up from a pharmacy within a few days, they can simply recycle them to fill another prescription.)

Any chance she could have slipped and fallen on a hard surface floor, or fallen while crossing over an area rug that slipped out from underneath her? Slipping on hard floors often results in that same behavior for many Greyhounds. Either way, if any area rugs don't have rubber gripper rugs underneath them, I highly recommend them. Home stores (like Home Depot) sell inexpensive under rug mats.

Very likely too much exercise for a newly retired Greyhound (sprinter). Even much younger Greyhounds only race 1 or 2 times per week, for approximately 30 seconds each time. They spend most of their time sleeping. Also, Audrey may be feeling overstimulated emotionally in her drastically different, new retired life. Newly retired hounds often need to build endurance (and pad toughness) very slowly (starting with 10 minute walks during first week or two, building slowly from there). Good to check paw pads periodically. Pads can get worn down to painfully raw if they overdo it on sidewalks, pavement, trail gravel. (Greys arrive from the track with soft pads.) I would suggest backing off of excessive daily activity. 20 to 30 minutes of total walking per day is plenty at this stage (if she's not in pain). It's possible Audrey might be feeling body pain after too much exercise too soon (lack of endurance, old injuries, and/or beginning arthritis). A 5 year old Greyhound is compared to a 40 year old human (but not a 40 year old Ironman human. ) Can her last call be shortened to a quick outing in your back yard, instead of a walk? Great that you're happily clapping to encourage her to stand up. As mentioned, a leash often works well (if she still trusts you enough to allow you to get that close). Showing her a leash might help. Odd as it may seem, it's not recommended to reprimand dogs for growling. If dogs are verbally punished for growling (their way of communicating displeasure), many dogs will learn to skip a verbal "warning" growl, and go directly to a bite instead. Better to retain her trust of you with positive methods calling her into another room, etc. As a lost Greyhound search team leader, I much prefer to save the treasured squawker for a TRUE emergency (e.g., if hound ever gets loose by accident, a squawker might help get her back). The more a squawker is used in plain ole' retirement, the less useful it becomes because adopters can't mimic racing trainers' extremely high racing rewards. Another option is teaching her to come to a whistle (coach/teacher's whistle) when you know she's feeling alert and hungry. (We keep them in the treat cabinet, car, etc.) Reward her immediately with rare treats only given for that whistle. (High value meats: beef, chicken, turkey, liver, tripe, hot dogs, etc. but no toxic onion or spices in meat.) Her response to "come" should always result in a wonderfully positive reward (super treat, favorite toy, affection, instant car ride, or whatever floats her boat). Dogs think: "What's in it for me?" Greyhounds are a very sensitive breed that respond best to positive reward training. Set them up for success by catching them doing something right (+ reward), and/or creatively setting up situations for them to succeed.

A lot of good advice posted (Greysmom, Macoduck, etc.). (We've had multiple Greyhounds + fosters with multiple cats. Also cat tester for group's new fosters.) I'll just highlight a few things. Probably most helpful to contact your GH adoption group to schedule a "cat test" with their experienced cat testers in another cat's home (a dog savvy cat). (Even an emotionally bad first experience for your fiancée's cats could affect her cats for many months (or longer), whether in your home or your fiancée's home.) I highly recommend beginning an animal bedding scent exchange now. Take your dogs' bed cover to your fiancée's house to leave for her cats to familiarize themselves with your dogs' scent over several weeks. Also, ask your fiancée to bring her cats' bed cover over for your dogs to do same. Replace each cover with stronger cat or dog scented cover (or towel) every few days. (Do not let the dogs treat the cats' bedding like play toys. If they try it, consider placing the cats' bedding on the sofa or other important place to be respected.) Finally, at the appropriate meeting time (noted in previous posts), initially I like to have my cat/s safely harnessed and leashed so the cat is under control and doesn't run away. (Running cat can trigger muzzled and leashed Greyhound to chase.) BTW, muzzled hound sniffs cat's butt end first (not cat's head since they often capture prey on neck/head). Skipping forward, many weeks thereafter, anytime your Greyhounds are free in the house (vs. securely locked in a crate), keep Greyhounds muzzled MUCH longer than you think is necessary. Remember, even if cats are behind a closed door, the first thing they often do is slip out between a human's legs immediately when a door is opened, or vice versa with dogs. (Even a muzzled hound can harm a cat just by pouncing on it with his/her strong legs.) I definitely recommend an extra tall baby-gate (or two) securely installed 5"- 6" above floor as a cat escape route to cats' safe place. (Be careful to ensure your hounds are not jumpers of a tall baby-gate.) Above all, remember Greyhounds are faster than cats. Great if the cats live "indoors only". If not, avoid allowing hounds outside when cats are outside in yard. Even if all goes well, don't ever allow hounds chase a cat, even in play. They can seem fine for a long time, then snag one as if it were a toy. If your hounds are cat workable, best of luck for a smooth transition for you all.

Great news that surgery was successful, and she's ready to go home!! Thank goodness for clean margins!! Extra for beautiful Opal.

Our dogs do sleep deeply and dream a lot. A couple months after we adopted one of our hounds, she had a horrible nightmare (vocalizing/crying more loudly than I've ever heard) while in the family room on a dog bed. I stayed in the next room whispering it was okay. Once she had fully awoken, she looked around the room trying to figure out where she was, then she noticed me standing in the next room. Instantly, she jumped up and FLEW across the room overwhelmingly showering me with kisses and cuddles!! She was clearly over the moon appreciative and SO happy to suddenly remember she was living in a loving family home. I was overwhelmed by her extreme reaction of delight. All our hounds seem to appreciate living in a family home, but that moment was unforgettable from a new, shy (at that time) Greyhound.

Here is a link to a veterinary hospital list on GT (compiled over years): http://forum.greytalk.com/index.php/topic/14761-greytalk-vet-list/