3greytjoys

Any idea about what might be motivating her? Some examples... Separation anxiety (or other types of anxiety) Sight hunting an underground "moving" critter, or smelling critters that tunnel (any paths noticed in her digging design?) Digging attempts to escape under fence line or gate Focused interest around tree roots Attempts to bury goodies Self-entertainment (digging holes anywhere/everywhere in the yard without any pattern) Digging near the house door As difficult as it is, please try not to punish her after the act. Reprimanding dogs for anything after their undesirable action does not work, and often increases problems. If she's simply bored and has excess energy, try walking/exercising her longer before you leave for work (weather permitting). Otherwise, there was recent thread re: ideas to help stimulate a hound's mind with indoor activities during winter. (We play with hounds by running up/down carpeted stairs to help keep their blood circulating well during crummy weather, etc.) Practice happy, positive obedience training or other interactive games to help stimulate her mind while building her confidence. Rotating dog safe toys every few days helps keep their interest to redirect energy in a positive way. (Multiples of each toy type ensure every dog in a multi-dog household gets that desired toy type. Example: We have dog-safe/non-chewable hard soccer size balls that dogs can roll around a yard. Depending on the dog, some tough Kong toys are okay to have around; however, "workable" food toys are not recommended for homes with multiple non-supervised dogs accessing the same spaces. (Too easy for fights to happen over food toys.) Avoid "tennis balls". Since you have a cat, I'd avoid GH lures also. Many people build a designated "doggie sand box" as an "approved" play area. The dog door should work from both directions for Greyhounds; otherwise, that could be a problem since Greyhounds' body temperature drops very rapidly in cooler conditions (or increases too much during warm seasons). A hound's body discomfort could cause such anxiety that desperation is channelled inappropriately by not being able to access the dog's indoor environment (including water). Existing holes could be filled with rocks, etc. but it often takes more than one solution to correct dogs since they usually move to another soft digging zone. There are other ways to handle critter holes, etc. if you happen to notice those things as her possible motivation. ETA: Please use caution if using any chicken wire. Even if dogs' nails are trimmed short, nails could potentially catch on wire and rip a nail.

One of our hounds has refused to eat breakfast most days for seven years (since adoption); however, she has severe S.A. so the other dogs must have already eaten, and be resting on their beds. She needs to have eliminated just before her meal, and the stars must align perfectly for her to eat (still with a human nearby). If she waits too long and her tummy begins to gurgle, it's a challenge to get her to eat anything (even after a Pepcid)... sometimes for another day. Whenever our other hounds (including the 12 year olds) refuse food, the first thing I consider is possible dental pain, then whether they are on medications that might change their appetite, then a possible problem with a particular food, then other medical issues. Food storage is important too. If pouring food into a storage bin without thorough washing and drying after each batch, the oils build up in the storage bin and become rancid. The rancid oils contaminate the new food. Kibble manufacturers recommend storing kibble in it's own bag. Good luck with your sweet Leia...

Very nice. Thank you for posting.

Thank you for adding your comment to this thread also. I understand and completely agree with you about the more currently shared "shortened version" about racing kennel life. The "short version" is frequently offered to new adopters by some GH adoption groups. It is excellent, so informative and helpful for adopters to learn about their greyt new family members' unique racing kennel life. I just wanted to help new readers (of this thread) understand those old training methods are not recommended in today's world. Sadly, many of us saw extremely negative results caused by those old aversive training techniques that affected many dogs (and humans they encountered) for a long time, often lasting dogs' entire lifetime. I agree with you. The dogs of today who are trained with positive, reward-based methods are much better off, as are their families. Helping dogs learn through positive, fun, and understanding behavior with gentle kindness is mirrored back to us tenfold+, especially with our wonderfully sensitive Greyhound breed. Thank you for posting.

I'm so very sorry for your terribly sad loss of Pinky. Our hearts break for you during this difficult time. Pinky will be missed by her GT family too. Godspeed beautiful girl. Cody, show Pinky the way and send Dad a sign that you're okay... until you meet again.

Oh Steve, I am so deeply sorry for you and your family. Losing one family member is horribly heartbreaking, losing two in such a short time is unimaginable. Our sincere thoughts are with you all. Sadie will be greatly missed by many of us. Godspeed sweet Sadie. Hopefully, Katie helped guide her across the bridge.

Agree if two people, one gets front with fabulous meat treats or exciting new toy -- middle seats folded down flat. (If solo, toss meat treats or exciting new toy.) It's really helpful to park car against an incline so the back gate opens closer to dog's ground level. After they learn the concept, gradually increase the height of the car's gate opening. (If hounds are entering sedans through a side door, helps to open the opposite door so they can see all the way through the enclosed box (car) they're being encouraged to enter.)

The discharge is called "smegma". Here's a short link about it: http://www.petcaregt.com/dogcare/dogdischarge.html

Excellent question. Here is what the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior suggests about selecting a dog trainer: http://avsabonline.org/uploads/position_statements/How_to_Choose_a_Trainer_%28AVSAB%29.pdf I agree about adhering to the special needs of Greyhound safety in a fully enclosed space; otherwise the dog should not be allowed off his/her human controlled leash. Also, Greyhounds should not be tethered to an object because they can approach racing speed within 3 strides; a tethered Greyhound can choke to death and/or break his/her neck from the extreme force.

The shortened excerpt of this seminar is excellent and very helpful for folks to understand about previous kennel life of Greys. Shortened excerpt: http://www.northerngreyhoundrescue.org.uk/page_1501563.html However, in contrast, the aversive training techniques in K. Gillie's longer article (in first post) were popular many decades ago, but are far outdated now. The American Society of Veterinary Behaviorists, and other U.S. veterinary and professional canine behavior organizations have taken a stand against those dangerous methods. Those techniques proved to increase aggression, arousal, and fear in dogs. They are dangerous for humans and can permanently damage the relationship between domestic pet dogs and humans. Anger begets anger. Aggression begets aggression. The Animal Behavior Resources Institute article: http://abrionline.org/article.php?id=254 (There are many, many more cases of proved aggression towards humans not included in this study.) Vet Medicine Article: http://vetmedicine.about.com/b/2009/07/07/veterinary-behaviorists-take-a-stand-against-cesar-millan.htm Not sure why there are duplicate threads on this subject; here is the original GT thread: http://forum.greytalk.com/index.php/topic/305670-training-newly-adopted-greyhounds/

Some dogs won't touch Kongs, etc. while their human is away, but if this dog chews (channels anxiety), an appropriately sized hard "Durachew" by Nylabone could be an alternate to a Kong. Our hounds' favorite Durachew is shaped like a fist/arm, "souper" size, bacon flavored. If needed, smearing peanut butter helps initiate interest. They last a long time, but should be replaced before it becomes too worn down.

If not medical and dog is not having accidents while owner is home, sounds like classic separation anxiety to me (possibly coupled with confinement anxiety). Accidents often happen within the first 30 minutes to an hour (or so) after owner's departure if from anxiety. Agree that video would help determine dog's behavior and timing. Another option: If crate is visible from a window, owner could drive away as usual, park down the street, walk back home to watch dog's behavior from a window (without dog seeing/hearing owner). (Clarification for new readers: Please don't place crate near window that gets direct sun due to oven effect/overexposure.) Depending on AM walk style and duration, possibly increase walk time. Important: Allow multiple outings before leaving for work. SA dogs begin building anxiety while watching owners' departure cues. Some hounds hold excess urine in their tank for "marking" during walks, so an additional backyard outing may help. (Less "marking" required in dog's own yard.) Morning potty examples: Eliminate upon awakening. Outing about 10-15 minutes after dog eats breakfast (before human showers/dresses) Outing immediately before driving away for work. 8 hours during the day is often too long without a potty opportunity. It's not the same as 8 hours overnight when dog is relaxed enough to sleep through the night with owner safely at home. (After a day of high anxiety, they're exhaused by bedtime.) Dogs feeling high anxiety sometimes can't physically hold urine/bowels like they can when they are feeling calm and relaxed. Important: Anxiety is fear based. It's extremely important to not punish a dog for anything he/she does that was caused by fear. Scolding magnifies dogs' anxiety for a long, long time. This compounds and creates additional problems. (What's that saying...Takes hundreds of "atta boys" to recover from one scolding.) Also important to not punish a dog by placing them into their crate. Crate should equal dog's happy, safe place. Feeding meals in crate may help if it's only a crate issue. Considering this poor dog (and owner) has been struggling for 6 months, I'd agree with veterinary prescribed medication coupled with alone training. The crate is clearly not working well (ex-pen would be the same problem), but owner might consider baby-gating dog's most frequented room, or kitchen with dog's comfy bed while he's at work. Prescribed mediation could truly be an amazing help for this dog while working through this issue. Otherwise, perhaps a retired/stay at home Greyhound owner in your group might welcome this boy into their home during weekdays as a dog sitting exchange or for minimal extra income.

Oh my gosh, I am so deeply sorry that Dylan is in critical condition. Relieved that Dr. Couto is on board as a consultant for him. I'll send you a PM. Here's a link to a Laryngeal Paralysis group for dog owners. It's all breed but includes Greyhound owners. Many members have posted about their tie-back experiences. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/lp/info My deepest heartfelt thoughts and prayers of strength and light are with Dylan (and you)...

Agree with Chad re: your husband sitting on floor level tossing treats behind husband's back without any direct eye contact with Kingsley; later feeding meals by hand. (Face-to-face or eye-to-eye contact is often considered threatening in dog language.) Agree with Batmom (in your previous thread) about your husband becoming a treat tossing dispenser. I'd suggest (quiet) treat tossing exercises first, then graduate to feeding meals from your husband's hands while husband quietly sits on floor looking away from Kingsley. These exercises are well-proven to be very effective. My favorite teaching method is to catch Greyhounds doing something right -- naturally on their own. If Kingsley is already very comfortable with you, teaching him words for his natural behaviors in a relaxed, non-threatening manner could be helpful. Just be careful to avoid overloading him. (If needed later, formal, positive reward method training could be done by your husband after your husband earns Kingsley's trust with daily tasks like feeding and walking. Each dog's situation is different, but if your husband tries training too soon, Kingsley may temporarily shut-down to learning, and lose progressive steps in trust.) Natural training examples for you: "Down" - Get ready with a treat. Watch for Kingsley to start to lie down naturally. While he's lowering himself into the "down" position, say the word "down" and immediately reward with a yummy treat and praise with a gooood boy. Then leave him alone since it's best to adhere to the wise adage "let resting dogs lie" (without disturbing them). Repeat the exercise each day or several times per week when Kingsley begins to lie down on his own. Soon, he will connect the word to the action. "Come" - Say "Kingsley come" in a very happy voice when it's meal time, high value treat time, or another activity that is super exciting to him (walk, car ride, or whatever). Reward and praise! (Only use a command once when you know he will respond. Don't repeat a command 5-10 times; that teaches the dog that he will only come when and if he feels like it.) Important: Never call him to you for anything that isn't a wonderful reward in his own mind. (Otherwise, dogs quickly learn to avoid humans when called whether a true emergency or not.) "Heel" - Same idea for teaching "heel" when he's leashed and walking with his right shoulder next to your left thigh. Do some figure 8's while he's on a short leash but without tension on his neck. Remember to reward with treats and happy voice making it fun for Kingsley. "Wait" - Teaching "wait" can be practiced in daily life while he's safely controlled with a leash and/or blocked by your body whenever he's waiting for doors to be opened, or stopping before crossing streets during walks, etc. "Sit" - I would not rush to begin teaching "sit". Some Greyhounds should never be taught to sit if they've had a racing injury to the spine or hind legs. Sitting is not comfortable for the long-legged Greyhound breed. Some Greyhounds will only do a side sit (vs. a straight sit) which is fine considering their unique body design. Teaching sit "naturally" may (or may not) require the dog have a deeper trust level that is usually obtained after a longer time living in their new environment. "Sit" could be the last command you teach (if at all). Teaching "Sit" - Please do not physically push a Greyhound into a sit. (Many dogs will bite from fear if being negatively forced/manhandled that way, and lose trust in their human during the process.) Instead, try teaching "sit" naturally when dog is about to lie down to relax on soft flooring (carpet or dog bed indoors, or outside on grass). Simply watch for the dog to place his butt on the floor (halfway between standing and lying down), then calmly step in front of the dog to block him from lying all the way down. Immediately say "sit" while instantly providing a rare yummy meat reward with verbal praise. Then human moves away to let the dog relax. Repeat this "sit" lesson only when Kingsley is dropping into a relaxing down position naturally. Sitting is usually an odd feeling to a Greyhound, but he will connect the new feeling of sitting with your word "sit". Just practice once each day or two. Your relaxed patience will pay off with his continued trust. "Release" I'd encourage you to teach the word "release" whenever he's free to move about e.g., after he's "waited" for a car door to be opened. Release is an excellent word to use for dogs since it's not used often in daily language between humans.

If her MIL has taken the dog, I HOPE she will ask her MIL to join Greytalk, and to (at least) read the book: "Retired Racing Greyhounds For Dummies" by Lee Livingood. Greyhound owners need the benefit of specific education geared to retired racers. Retired Racing Greyhounds For Dummies: http://www.amazon.com/Retired-Racing-Greyhounds-For-Dummies/dp/0764552767 If original owner's children will ever be visiting their grandmother's home, additional assistance from a qualified animal behaviorist is extremely important. Agree with Burpdog. Another highly experienced Greyhound group would accept this Greyhound, likely adopt to a highly experienced retired racer home without children, and offer ongoing support.

Congratulations on your new job! How long have you lived in your current residence? Is this residence different from the home you shared with a previous landlord? Did your current landlord provide times and type of Rocky's behavior (assuming howling and/or barking)? Example: Is Rocky making noise in the morning for a short time after you leave, or mid-day, or shortly before you return home in the late afternoon, or ALL day long from the moment you leave until the moment you return? Are you able to video him? What times are his meals provided? What about his morning outing/s?

I'm not a veterinarian -- just tossing thoughts to consider (if your Whippet's current vomiting isn't prescription medication related). Has a laboratory fecal test been run on a fresh fecal sample? Have you (or your husband) noticed any diarrhea, mucus, blood, or eggs/worms/parasites in stools during the past couple of months? Assuming your Whippet has been on the same Diamond kibble long-term, when did he originally begin eating food from his current kibble bag? Adverse reactions to food can last longer than the period in which dog is eating that food (e.g., IBD, salmonella, e coli, etc.). Helpful to keep bag in case manufacturer's product run data is required later. Diamond has had recalls in past years (including pet food expiration dates through early 2013). I have not seen a recent FDA recall for them; however, if your dog's vomiting happens to be pet food quality related, remember that customers begin seeing problems in their dogs before official recalls are announced. If your dog is gassy while eating Diamond kibble, a different brand of single protein kibble could be helpful (only after he's cleared to begin graduating from his bland diet by his veterinarian). To avoid bloat (can be common in deep-chested breeds), avoid feeding within 1 hour before strenuous exercise, and within 2 hours after strenuous exercise. Thinking back to the first few days before your boy's initial bouts of vomiting: Could he have eaten any human food leftovers, or snagged food without a human noticing? (Particularly food high in fat, even gravy or chicken fat/turkey fat, or other human food potentially toxic to dogs like grapes, raisins, avocado, chocolate, etc.) Any repeated munching of leaves from a houseplant or outside plant material could cause or compound problems. I don't know how long you've owned your 1 year old Whippet, but assuming you bought your puppy directly from a breeder, ask your breeder if they've had this problem in their pups. Some breeders won't confess recurring health problems in their breeding lines, but it's worth a try. Some of these "general" home observation exam questions might help trigger a new answer that could be helpful to your veterinarian. http://www.petplace.com/dogs/your-dog-s-physical-examination-at-home/page1.aspx (Other readers could benefit from this excellent pet exam questionnaire for their newly adopted Greyhound's veterinary file.)

Fluoxetine (aka: Prozac) only takes the edge off while the dog is being medicated. Fluoxetine has side effects that may become problematic if used very long-term, so consider it a temporary helpful band-aid. Appropriate, skilled (positive method) training must occur at the same time, otherwise, a dog will return to previous behavior once medication is stopped. (Do not stop Fluoxetine cold turkey. Consult with a veterinarian whenever changing dose. Always check with a veterinarian before giving dog any other medication - even over the counter - while on Fluoxetine.) Owner has been fairly lucky so far, but owner's responsible management of this hound is key. I would discourage the owner from allowing this dog in multi-dog environments (if possible) until a reputable, trained skilled professional is involved. Any type of highly-valued items like bowls, treats, toys, etc. should not be left around the environment of this dog -- if other dogs are present. Owner is lucky that clapping stopped a scuffle from escalating to a full-blown fight. Tall chair-backs placed between two dogs can help separate them. A chair-back separates dogs' faces, and keeps human at a little safer distance away. Common canine behavior: If a fight begins, all dogs in the area are likely to join the fight. Agree with Feisty49: If one dog is muzzled ALL dogs should be muzzled. (If only one dog is muzzled, that muzzled dog becomes a defenseless sitting duck for severe injury from non-muzzled dogs.) I strongly encourage this Greyhound's owner is to seek professional help ASAP. A highly skilled professional could make a world of difference. Reputable links (previously posted by GTer "Giselle"): Behavior consultants: www.iaabc.org Find a CPDT-KA trainer: http://www.ccpdt.org/ Veterinary behaviorist: www.dacvb.org

Advantix is strong and might be burning Willis. Greyhounds can be sensitive to chemicals. If Willis panicked from feeding off of your reaction, that's one thing, but if you think he was feeling discomfort from Advantix, I'd encourage you to ask your vet for a different flea/tick product. You should be able to return Advantix for a full refund. (I've read about many other dogs (various breeds) who have experienced adverse reactions/side effects from Advantix.) None of our Greyhounds or fosters (including spooks) have had Willis' type of reaction to topical flea/tick products. They simply act the same as if we're petting them (standing up), then we go for a nice walk while it dries. (Advantix is not used here since cats live with our hounds. Advantix is dangerous to cats.) Hopefully, Willis will be non-reactive to a different product. If needed, perhaps someone from your Greyhound group, or your vet's office can help hold Willis next time. (Tethering outside is risky. If he attempts to bolt or twist his body/neck in a panic, it could harm his neck.)

Congratulations on adopting Macho's littermate, Keiva! Hopefully, Keiva is still improving nicely. It's still early in Keiva's transition learning to live with a cat. I'd suggest teaching "leave it". Reward Keiva for calm behavior around the cat. Try to ensure the cat is viewed as a loved and valued family member. I'd suggest installing a tall, baby-gate about 5" - 6" above floor level in the most used family room area (where dogs spend most time). This gives a cat a full doorway wide escape route. Since Greyhounds are faster than cats, the easier the cat escape routes are the better. An indoor baby-gate usually stops a hound's chase quickly, at least while humans are supervising. Helpful to pull large/long furniture (sofa, etc.) slightly away from walls to create cat-safe hiding places where a dog can't reach a cat. (Give kitty enough room to turn around.) The cat should be behind a solid closed door whenever you leave the house. Muzzles are helpful for hounds, but a hound can still kill a cat by pouncing on it, and/or biting through a muzzle. Even if dogs are acting playful with cats, precautions should be taken to keep cats safe. Only takes an instant for play to turn to prey. (This may not relate to your circumstance, but we're careful to select dog toys that don't resemble cats. We like "Tuffie Toys" for their durability and unique shapes.) Assuming this statement was meant to read that she would not leave them together.

Just thought I'd add that we've been using liquid form aminocaproic acid for several years with excellent success for our excessive bleeder hounds. Two positive points: It acts very quickly since it's already in liquid form. The hounds love the beef flavored taste of liquid form, so they perceive it as a yummy treat. The downside: Liquid form has a much shorter shelf life (1-3 months) vs. tablets (approx. 1 year). We also keep aminocaproic acid tablets at home for unexpected emergencies.

Costco pharmacy for veterinary prescribed aminocaproic acid tablets. Human compounding pharmacy for liquid form.

We currently have two Greyhounds with laryngeal paralysis (LP is a nerve-related, progressive disease). One hound already had early LP symptoms at time of adoption at 6 years old, both hounds are 12 years old now. I believe LP is much more common in many dog breeds than is recognized, or diagnosed. Tie-back surgery is a good option for many dogs; however, our hounds were not candidates (due to other health issues), so we are VERY careful with their life management. Highlights below (helpful for other readers) include two helpful links. Signs of Laryngeal Paralysis (per MSU, link below): Increased noisy breathing from throat (stridor), sometimes called “roaring”, most noticeable when panting. Distressed breathing, especially in hot weather, humidity, and when excited or stressed. Unable to exercise as much, may sit down or even collapse. Bark change / hoarse bark (in about half the cases). When severe, the gums may become pale or blue colored. Throat-clearing, or hacking, or coughing. Gagging with or without regurgitation (may or may not be associated with drinking/eating). Hind-end weakness and an unsteady gait. Loss of muscle mass. If a Greyhound shows any of the symptoms above, please alert a veterinarian re: Laryngeal Paralysis. Board certified surgeon is often recommended for tie-back surgery. Important Tips to Help Manage Laryngeal Paralysis: - Ensure hound's home is kept cool, and remains a calm, stress-free environment. - Limit dog's excessive activity (e.g., avoid running). - Avoid walking dog in warm temperatures. (Early morning is coolest time of day.) - Moisten dry kibble with a little water before serving. - Be careful to not overfeed dog. (Healthy pet Greyhound weight is being able to see the last two ribs.) - Leash walk an LP dog with a harness instead of a collar (to eliminate pressure on the dog's larynx). - Stop using collars. (Please be EXTRA careful to keep Greyhound from getting loose by mistake. Ensure Greyhound gets microchipped since this means dog has no I.D. collar. Keep microchip records updated with current contact info.) A couple of good links: http://www.acvim.org/PetOwners/AnimalEducation/FactSheets/Neurology/LaryngealParalysis.aspx http://cvm.msu.edu/hospital/clinical-research/golpp-study-group/living-with-golpp

My heart truly goes out to you. I understand how difficult it is to handle final stage CHF in our fur family members. Godspeed your sweet Lazer... His spirit will remain in your heart forever.

Rimadyl caused bleeding in one of our hounds, but we caught it in time.