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silverfish

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  1. Tell me about your experiences with lumbo-sacral stenosis - early signs, what was done, etc. Jeffie (12 yrs) is wobbly on his back end. Vet thinks it's just aging and perhaps neurological involvement (LS? Though he didn't call it that), but I'm not sure. He's been a tad wobbly since he lost an outer toe - it's as if he still doesn't remember it's gone and tries to use it for balance and then his foot goes over. Two reasons I'm not sure it's LS. Firstly, if I press on each of the individual vertebrae in his lower back - enough to make him brace against it and bounce just a tad - he is solid as a rock, provided his feet are well apart and he's balanced. Secondly, if I rub the back of his thighs he literally sinks to the ground, and he's more sensitive on one side than the other. He's fallen on his back end twice within the past few weeks. The first he seemed to 'miss' the front door step (a matter of about three inches) and his right hind leg gave way, then his left hind tripped over that and he was down. Once lifted to his feet, he jumped into the car with no problem. The second time he was crossing the road with DH and he says that there was nothing in the road (no bumps or dips) and as far as he knows nothing happened to make him fall. I have to say he does have a habit of letting the dogs walk behind him across the road, so he didn't actually see it happen. Again, he had to be lifted to his feet but then trotted off as if nothing had happened. I've never had an LS dog, though Jim got a bit saggy when he was thirteen and up. He never fell or tripped though.
  2. What Batmom said. I don't fret overmuch about this kind of thing, but I do make sure they're not panting when I feed them and won't let DH (who does not understand) feed them within half an hour of walking out, even though they are old and don't dash about like a youngster. Sometimes it happens that they do go straight out and run about madly in the garden, or come in and suck down a ton of water, but I've never had any symptoms here. Keep a close eye on him and let the vet know immediately if his behaviour looks at all odd or he looks uncomfortable, but he'll probably be fine.
  3. That's good news! Keep it up, and you'll do fine. Just don't relax too soon, and let her fail. Keep praising her for good behaviour, and carry on keeping everyone away from her bed. In time she may come to accept petting on her bed, but i really wouldn't try it for a good long time - and even then it should be a competent and dog-savvy adult who knows how to read dog body language, not a child. Oh, and just a little bit of extra advice for safety: remember that dogs don't do 'hugging' and they don't appreciate having someone stare into their eyes. One of the most common causes for bitten faces in children is that they - being human - love to wrap their arms round a dog's neck and stare into their eyes. Dogs can interpret this as a threat and react accordingly.
  4. One thing I would add is that in a dog pack there are more fights among the 'beta' dogs than ever happen in challenges to the leader. This can be reflected in a household where there are multiple dogs in that, while it's not a true pack, they do look to you as the overall leader, so there can be jostling for your favours. One thing I always make sure to do is to avoid favouring the more timid dog over the pushier one, because this can lead to spats when you're not there to supervise. So, basically, no matter which dog came to live with you first, try not to interfere with the way they arrange things among themselves. Make sure they get their fair share of food, treats, pets, etc, but be careful how you dispense them. If Essie seems to be taking a back seat, it is wisest to let her do so. Dogs are happy in whatever 'pack' position they have, so long as they know where they are. Trying to favour the 'underdog' leads to confusion. That has been my experience.
  5. Basically, the answer to your question is 'yes'. Eventually she will get up and want to be touched. She is probably keeping to her bed right now because she has always been able to regard her bed as a safe place. Some greyhounds 'roach' - which is to say they roll over and sleep on their backs just because it's relaxing - and it doesn't necessarily mean an invitation to belly rub. Have you read the Kathleen Gilley 'No Fear, No Pain' lecture? Some people disagree a little bit with her training methods, but her description of being adopted from the ex-racing greyhound's point of view is spot on. It can make interesting reading in these situations because suddenly you will understand why your new dog is doing so many 'inexplicable' things. You can find a short form of it here. Do read it, because it can be very helpful to new adopters. I adopted my first greyhound in 1994, and we're now on our sixth dog. I also volunteer with the local adoption kennel. I will tell you how it goes in our house when a new dog is adopted. When I bring my new dog into the house, I have everything ready for him/her so there's no bustling about with last minute preparations. They will already have been introduced to our existing dog (I usually keep a pair!) so I just bring them in and let them wander about, exploring, finding a toy (if so inclined) and a bed while I make a cup of tea and just watch them and gently redirect them if they do something 'wrong'. Over the next few days and weeks I work on gaining their trust. This is a vital step, because it forms the basis of their future relationship with me. If I have a 'growler' (I've had two) I give them as much space as possible and make no demands until they're ready, other than this: I touch them lightly in passing for a moment only - usually a quick light hand on the shoulder - whenever possible, but always, always when they are standing or walking and always when they know I am there, and I always speak to them softly while doing so. I give the same light, quick touch when I feed them anything; when I put the food bowl down, and when I give a treat etc I hold onto it after they take hold for just a second or two before I let them have it. I talk to them often in a low, cheerful voice. I keep the 'No's and the 'Uh-uh's for things I really don't want them to do. Children should be kept well away from the dog during this period. The ONLY interaction they have should be supervised closely with a parent constantly right there by the child's side, and watching the dog's body language extremely carefully. Also with the dog awake and willing. These interactions should be kept short. And by short, I mean less than a minute or two. The child - of whatever age - should never be allowed to touch or approach the dog on his/her bed. Many dogs will be absolutely fine with this at a later stage, but really, not at first. It would take an exceptional greyhound to be fine with children on his/her bed in the early days, whereas many will be fine eventually, just not at first. A great book for safe dog/child interactions is 'Living With Kids & Dogs (Without Losing Your Mind)' by Colleen Pelar Do read it if you can get hold of a copy. It has some invaluable insights and advice. I have a copy myself, because we have year old twin grand-daughters.
  6. When we lost our Renie's first companion, she was a bit like that. She didn't lie down on walks, but she had no interest in anything. She was a bit of a bossy girl, and used to chase other dogs away if they ventured too close to us (she was an off-leader), but without Jim, she was apathetic. Didn't want to chase other dogs away any more, but couldn't be bothered to interact with them either. She simply stood and suffered their presence till they went away. She went where she was told, when she was told, but there was no joy in her. She took very little interest in anything. When we got Jack, she perked up within a few days and was back to her usual, bossy self. If it hadn't been so sad to see her grieve like that it would have been comical. She liked to defend her 'old guys' from the rough youngsters and without her old guy she was lost. I'm wondering if you could borrow a dog to walk with to see if it makes any difference to her? When you say she wants to go where her old walking partner used to live, it suggests she's missing her mate.
  7. Great news! I understand about the wobbly legs thing. I was wondering if any of the braces you can buy might help him when he's feeling weak? OrthoVet do a variety including hock supports - it might make a difference for the times he's particularly bad. I've resorted to supporting Sid myself - by hand - when he's had an injury (he's a tripod) but many dogs won't allow this and simply wouldn't 'perform' anyway. Another thought is that if you get a rear end walking harness, like this one, maybe he'd manage to pee/poop on his own if he hasn't had to also get himself out their under his own steam?
  8. Poor girl. Sounds like a combination of things (maybe a little bit of grief still in there), but whatever the cause, I think I wouldn't be walking her for 45 minutes at the moment. Try cutting it down to 30 and see how she does. It could be that she didn't really want 45 minutes before but did it simply because the other dog was there walking with her. I'd keep an eye on her - which clearly you are doing - and just watch and wait for now.
  9. While I agree that they do look wonderful in custom collars, they also pee, poop and vomit, eat inappropriate objects, chew stuff, squeal like babies if they stub a toe and generally misbehave just like any other breed of dog. They can be fragile (very thin skin, sensitive to heat and cold and certain medications) and have different biochemistry. I feel it's also worth mentioning that they are very, very different in character to Dobermans and need a whole different training approach. They can be extraordinarily sensitive to things that wouldn't faze a Dobe, and their body language can be subtle to the point of almost non-existent to the un-trained eye. What I'm trying to say is, don't get a greyhound because you like the way they look, or even because they have charming and endearing personalities (I very much agree on that, too, BTW ), without doing a little bit of research into the breed from a practical angle. I'd advise getting a copy of 'Retired Racing Greyhounds for Dummies' for a fairly in-depth peek into the life and mind of an ex-racer.
  10. Just an alternative opinion; there are people on GT (myself included) who do walk their greyhounds off-leash if they have a suitable dog. And it goes without saying, only in suitable places. I don't know what your property is like, but if there are hazards like sudden drops, pot-holes, and other natural dangers, I wouldn't do it - as others have said, greyhounds are sighthounds and can take off running before you know it, and they don't always look where they're putting their feet. Their eyes on on their prey. Some have even shattered legs running into trees, or doors, or fences. Some have died doing so. Roughly half my dogs have been off-leash dogs, by which I mean, we've walked them to a safe place on their leashes, and then let them off to run ahead, fall behind, but basically keep up with us as we walk. When we reached a hazardous area (in our case roads) we put the leashes on again. They've had a lot of recall training BEFORE being allowed off, and the training has continued during their lifetime - this is a must. We don't have dangerous wildlife, however, and the most dangerous natural hazards around here are the dykes, which are drainage ditches with very high, sloping banks. The water can be very, very deep, but mostly isn't - not around here. In flood times, I would NOT let them off lead. You need to have a suitable dog. You need a bright dog who is safe around other dogs of all shapes and sizes, and has a little bit of 'street wisdom'. Many, many greyhounds will get themselves into trouble because they are not capable of learning to listen well enough. It is particularly important for them to listen to you when they see something exciting, because there may well be times when you want to command them to 'wait' or 'stay' or 'come' and have them obey PDQ. You may have snakes on your property, or coyote, or wolves or bears etc. Many greyhounds are daft enough to take on any or all of the above and you'd need to know that your dog would obey you in times of need, for their own safety. Your situation sounds as if it could be OK, but as the others have said, greyhounds are not dogs with a lot of stamina. They don't do long hikes - well, most of them don't. You get the occasional one who enjoys it.
  11. I'd check with the vet on the whole exercise issue in a dog with a known disease like kidney failure. Failing kidneys can make them feel really, really ill, and I wouldn't be surprised if an affected dog didn't want to walk much, especially in hot weather. Depending on the type of kidney disease, there may be a problem concentrating the urine, which would mean that they'd get dehydrated quicker in hot weather, too. It's good to exercise with kidney disease, but you might just need to check how much your vet thinks your dog can handle, especially in the heat. Another thing to consider, if she's an elderly dog, is that she may be developing cardiac disease, too.
  12. If she swallowed it whole she'll be fine - unless the bone was already broken within the leg, and even then she'll probably be fine. Try giving her bread, and just watch her carefully for signs of abdominal discomfort, or straining when she poops. If you see anything odd (standing with head low, backed arched & tummy tucked high, for instance) call the vet and get her checked.
  13. Any auto-immune disease can be triggered by any vaccination at any time. My own mother, who'd had no trouble with other vaccines during her lifetime, was persuaded to have the flu shot at age 82/83. It triggered a devastating whole-body auto-immune arthritis and she became disabled within weeks, and registered disabled within the shortest time the beaurocrats could process it. She suffered from it until her death nearly a decade later. She'd had NO arthritis previous to the vaccine and her rheumatologist admitted (off the record) that his money was on the flu shot as the cause. From what I read and understand, some vaccines are more likely to trigger problems in susceptible people/animals than others, and the flu vaccine is one of them. The rabies vaccine is another. And any vaccine is more likely to trigger a bad reaction if given together with other vaccines, or too closely following other vaccines/treatments. The same is true for any other type of challenge to the immune system: even viruses which we catch in the normal course of our lives can trigger auto-immune illnesses, and some are quite famous for it - Epstein Barr is one.
  14. Peeing very dark urine usually means that it's highly concentrated and is usually due to dehydration and if he's dehydrated and peed a huge pee at 6am, he won't need to pee at 11.30am. Tramadol makes you very dry (I get through two glasses of water a night when I'm taking it) so it's possible that he's not drinking enough now he's off it and therefore he is a bit dehydrated. Also, if he has a bum leg, he may be unwilling to get up to drink - or to pee, for that matter - until he has to. However, very dark urine can be due to blood or muscle metabolites etc in the urine, so since he's old and has some existing conditions (including kidney disease) I'd talk to the vet as soon as you can and get some advice.
  15. I feel for you. Please don't take the whole burden of responsibility for Sarge's illness and death onto your own shoulders - he had a previous home, where they did not love him enough to keep him during a house move, and where he clearly was NOT blissfully happy since he was stressed enough to need muzzling for nail clipping whereas with you it was no problem. The reasons for the separation anxiety can only be speculated about, but you could well be right. I don't know that much about IBD, but from the little I do know, there's a strong belief that in some individuals it can be triggered by vaccination, or by stress. Seems to me that Sarge may have been subjected to both triggers in his previous home, and I also agree with those who said that maybe his separation anxiety was not pure SA but panic/discomfort/accidents caused by his IBD - which he already suffered from but which was not being recognised or treated. Bottom line is that you can't know for sure. All you can know is that during the eleven months you had him, you loved him dearly, and gave him the best possible care and the best possible chance for recovery. The very fact that you didn't need to muzzle him for nail-clipping tells me that you and he had a bond of love and trust. DO NOT beat yourself up. Been there, done that (took on a dog with early stage kidney cancer and lost her five months later after a failure on my vet's part to dx properly or refer us to a specialist) and it's destructive and serves no purpose. Quite apart from the fact that you clearly did all you could think of doing, it's the vet's responsibility to diagnose and treat. It's your responsibility to be vigilant and get the dog to the vet, then follow directions - which you did. I don't say that there's no room for questioning our vets (I do it all the time ). Vets are neither superhuman nor all-knowing, but they are skilled professionals who do their best. The plain facts are that our families, friends and beloved animals do seem to have a habit of falling ill and dying despite our best efforts. It's part of life and it's tough, but sometimes there simply is nobody at fault. It just happens.
  16. I'd really want to know what was going on. Is there any way to get a specialist consult? They may be able to tell you quite a lot without anaesthetising him, but if they wanted to do it, I'd let them, stress or no stress. JMHO, and won't judge whatever decision you make. It's never easy. I just know from experience - losing not one, but two dogs from wrong dxs followed by dxs that came too late to help - that I need to know what I'm dealing with in cases like this because the guilt in hindsight can be extremely painful.
  17. The older dogs can take longer to return to normal too (I think Zuri is older, isn't he?). ACE can certainly affect them for a very long time and make them look really miserable. Jeffie is twelve and had some investigations done on Monday under GA, and he is still not quite back to normal this morning. His appetite is off and he's still a bit whiney. For the first twelve hours I couldn't get him to drink and had to resort to syringing water into his mouth. Bottom line is, if you're worried, give the vet a call. They should be happy to talk it through with you. Footnote: Jeffie is doing OK. The doorbell rang just now and he did his usual mad dash to the front door to bark like a maniac and make sure no Dog Wraiths got into the house.
  18. So sorry to hear that. It's tough when they start to age badly. It's particularly tough when they start to do it early, and nine years is really so young to be thinking about LS. It's unusual for them to knuckle on one side, I would have thought, unless it's a CNS thing, like a stroke? Even maybe something like an FCE (fibro-cartilagenous embolism). I think - even though he stresses badly - I'd want it investigated, especially in such a relatively young dog. We've just had Jeffie in for investigation because he's been coughing, but also to discuss his near skeletal status and wobbly back end. He's losing muscle fast. He is twelve, so I suppose we should expect it .. he doesn't appear to be in pain, but the vet thinks it's worth putting him on an NSAID to see if there's any response. He's always been a bit unsure where his back feet are, and what do do with them, but it's getting worse, bless him. He has no trouble jumping into the car (shoots in like a rocket and nearly ends up in the front seat, except that there's a dog guard in the way), but he's suddenly looking old and walking like a little old man. So he went in for x-rays, bloods, look down his throat/bronchoscopy, and (since he was going to be under) his remaining five teeth were cleaned. He looked in very poor shape when he came home, very wobbly and wouldn't settle, let alone eat or drink or go and pee. He does stress badly, not as bad as Levi, but he gets really thrown and upset, but today he's perked up and is eating, drinking, peeing etc. and I'm really glad we did it. The way we looked at it was that we might not want to do it now, but what if he got worse and needed it a year or two down the road when he's older and more fragile?
  19. They think that in the area below his lumbar spine there is enlargement in the lymphatic system (probably a lymph node or nodes). They don't know what it is, but they believe it to be the explanation for the 'soft tissue opacity'. The cause for this lymphomegaly can range from infection to cancer and be anything or nothing. I expect they'll want to keep an eye on it, if not investigate further, since they are thinking it may be the result of a mass (possible tumour) somewhere in the pelvic/pelvic limb region. But it does look as if he doesn't have bone cancer, which is great news!
  20. Oh no! Sometimes I wonder if they realise how much we worry ... Sending them to Dr Couto is a great idea. Thinking of you and Henry. Will check back and see what's happening later.
  21. As others have said, an irregularity on the bone is ... an irregularity on the bone. Could be arthritis, a bone cyst, random idiopathic demineralisation, necrosis or hyperostosis, fungal, old injury, etc. Or it could be a bone tumour - and remember there are some bone tumours which are benign. Try not to panic until all the information is available!
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