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Jumping On People - Non Grey


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My neighbors had a beautiful flashy boxer follow them home last year. The put up fliers and ran ads but no one claimed him. He was, as James calls it "very cowed" so they let him get away with a lot of things they shouldn't have. Now they basically have a 3 year old 65 pound battering ram. I really don't have much experience with canine battering rams. Turning your back on him just invites him to knock you in the back of the knees and topple you. They've used the water bottle too much and now he thinks it's a toy and wants to catch the stream of water.

 

He's a sweet dog but TOTALLY out of control and I don't know what to suggest other than obedience classes which I've already done and he won't take Fritz. I even found one taught by a lady that has boxers but he just won't go. They really are my only support network on a day to day basis and most days for the last 10 years we get together in the afternoons to chat. I'm just really tired of being battered and bruised,

 

Is there something I can do to avoid being a punching bag? Thanks

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My barn owners have two boxers. They don't call them boxers for nothin'. Boxers, in general, are overgrown puppies with more energy than I'd ever want in a dog. Other than an obedience class, I don't have any other suggestions.

Laura with Celeste (ICU Celeste) and Galgos Beatrix and Encarna
The Horse - Gracie (MD Grace E)
Bridge Angels Faye Oops (Santa Fe Oops), Bonny (
Bonny Drive), Darcy (D's Zipperfoot)

 

 

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Jumping is a hard behavior to break. My pointer was an awful jumper when she was young. We were in obedience classes and tried several techniques (such as turning my back) with no success.

 

I found that Nessa jumped up because she wanted attention. Bending down to give attention negated the need to jump and taught her that she can receive attention with "4 on the floor". Also I used the command OFF (different from the down command).

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Is there something I can do to avoid being a punching bag? Thanks

If you are asking if there is something you can change about your behavior with the dog to keep him from jumping on you, my answer is sadly, probably not.

 

There are quite a few ways to deal with this issue, but unfortunately it requires an effort on the part of the owners to train the dog. Not to mention that from the sounds of it, the dog is probably not getting nearly enough exercise that a young boxer needs.

 

So my suggestion is to speak honestly with the owners in the hopes that they will do something: "I adore Fritz and love that he's so happy to see me when I come over, but his excitement has become painful for me, to the point that I sometimes leave with bruises. Do you think we could work on a way to help him calm down before he greets me, maybe by putting him on leash, putting him behind a baby gate, in an x-pen, put him outside (etc. - whatever you think they might go for)?"

 

The leash is probably your best solution. If they're unwilling to keep control over him with it, you can simply step on it at a place where he is physically unable to jump on you and wait him out. When he's calm, start to bend over to pet him. This will almost undoubtedly result in another frenzy of energy and attempts to jump up. Immediately stand straight back up, stay completely still and avoid eye contact. When he's calm, do it again. You will probably do this ad nauseum before you manage to actually pet him, but over time it will get better.

 

If they're unwilling to do anything to manage it, unfortunately the behavior isn't likely to get better. For some dogs, and I am guessing Fritz is one of them, the mere act of making contact with you is rewarding to them and thus reinforces the behavior. As long as he's successful in making contact, it will go on.

 

The only other suggestion I have if they're unwilling to do anything or you're unwilling to discuss it with them is to immediately excuse yourself into the powder room and shut the door. When you hear him quiet outside, come out. If he comes charging at you, go "oops, forgot to wash my hands" or make some other inane excuse (or say nothing at all) and go back in and shut the door. Do this ad naseum until he's calm when you walk out.

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Jen, CPDT-KA with Zuri, lab in a greyhound suit, Violet, formerly known as Faith, Skye, the permanent puppy, Cisco, resident cat, and my baby girl Neyla, forever in my heart

"The great thing about science is that you're free to disagree with it, but you'll be wrong."

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Not to mention that from the sounds of it, the dog is probably not getting nearly enough exercise that a young boxer needs.

Absolutely 100% correct. They are in their late 60's and he has stage 4 cancer (which seems to be in remission). The wife was pulled down on a walk a few weeks ago and ended up in urgent care so he's not getting walks. We do have huge backyards so he can burn off a bit of steam.

 

They are leaving soon to drive to Alaska with their new trailer and will be on the road around 2 months. He does say that Fritz enjoys the agility set ups at some of the KOAs. It really is a bad match but he and the husband adore each other. I think he goes over the top with me as I am pretty much their only visitor. We have tried having him go in his "box" (crate) until he calms down but the second he's let back out he is knocking me over. Sitting down has only resulted in several split lips. Will try the bathroom idea.

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With a young active dog like that, walks aren't exercise anyway. If they have a large yard, their best bet is to play fetch with him several times a day, each session long enough to completely tire him out. What that looks like: no interest in bringing the ball back to them anymore, laying down, tongue lolling out of the side of his mouth. If they do that 3x/day they'll be well on their way to a dog that's easier to manage. Since they're older, they could use a Chuckit to throw the ball more easily.

gallery_12662_3351_862.jpg

Jen, CPDT-KA with Zuri, lab in a greyhound suit, Violet, formerly known as Faith, Skye, the permanent puppy, Cisco, resident cat, and my baby girl Neyla, forever in my heart

"The great thing about science is that you're free to disagree with it, but you'll be wrong."

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I agree that the problem is youth, and his being a boxer! Enthusiasm to spare, and always wanting to paw things.

 

Fetch would be a great opportunity to get him exercise, if he'll play along. If they share a fence with you, can you greet him through the fence and get him to sit before you pet him/interact and do the "oops, you broke the sit, I won't touch you" until he stays in his sit? That might be a way to get him to know the idea of sit for attention when he can't maul you in his enthusiasm.

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Guest BiggiesOwner

If I have a large dog coming at me to jump I will just raise my knee as they're coming towards me - self preservation for myself and I've found most dogs get the hint if they're getting a knee instead of a squishy person after the first attempt or two. Haven't dealt with boxers though....

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I've used the knee, but I've also stepped directly towards them into their space also has some effect. It throws them off balance, then they hit the ground, at which point they get positive reinforcement with four paws on the floor. It'\s better to do this as their starting to go up, because it leaves them no room.

 

Good luck!

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Great! Keep us posted.

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Jen, CPDT-KA with Zuri, lab in a greyhound suit, Violet, formerly known as Faith, Skye, the permanent puppy, Cisco, resident cat, and my baby girl Neyla, forever in my heart

"The great thing about science is that you're free to disagree with it, but you'll be wrong."

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I lift my knee if a dog tries to jump on me (not a grey - they're far too tall for it to work). I don't kick or move toward them - I just make sure that instead of hitting me broadside - when he connects - it's with my knee. A knee to the chest does not feel good. I stand still - and let them do the damage. Most dogs don't like the feel of it - so they stop. They're doing something that hurts a bit - so they'll usually choose to stop. I'm not moving toward them - so they don't think I "did" something. If you're going to get hit - get hit on a raised knee. You gotta be quick, though.

 

ETA: I've never tried it on a boxer - they're pretty solid. I Have done it was an obese lab (my neighbor's) - and he doesn't jump on me any more. He does still jump on other people - and at his weight - it's dangerous. BTW - he still loves me to visit - so no harm, no foul.

Edited by sobesmom
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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest johnmclaren

Boxers are very friendly breed. They are quite playful and loving family companions. They are also highly energetic and active. They are all time game lovers. They are develop deep attachments to people. They should always be handled with love and affection.

Edited by johnmclaren
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I don't think any of us have handled Fritz with anything but love and affection, except for maybe fending off some boxer blows. Believe me, if we added up the tally for 3 AARP members vs. Fritz in terms of battle scars and owies. the human crew would be the most beat up. Jens suggestion about hiding in the bathroom showed great promise and hopefully we can work on it when they return from Alaska. I have to hand it to James...I'm not sure I'd be up to two months in a truck towing a trailer with Fritz on board. :)

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Guest snowpuppy

Okay my advise...

 

1. They need to realize that larger breed dogs take longer to reach adulthood than your small varieties. At 3 years old he's just become an adult...the way an 18 year old who got to do whatever they wanted if they pulled out the pouty eyes is an adult. That doesn't mean its a bad dog or that he's a lost cause, so I hope they don't give up on him.

 

2. Training is a must for any dog if you don't want a jerkface dog. Dog doesn't mean to be a jerkface, but it also doesn't acknowledge basic etiquette with people. This isn't the dogs fault...its the peoples fault for not teaching him. That doesn't mean again that its too late (half of our 6 dog team is rescues that we haven't had as puppies), just a bit more work. On a positive note, I've found that sometimes training adults is a wee bit easier than pups just because of the slightly longer attention span. Some pretty basic things to teach him for starters

 

  • Sit
  • Down
  • Release

These three are pretty basic. the important thing is getting him to recognize that once the command sit, or down is given...it has to be held until the release command is given (if release is a common word used in the household...pick something else for the word). You do this by starting really small. I start with sit. Then sit for 3 seconds...and then a release. Train this for all of our guys (except for my girl whose hand shy and still not sure we're going to not hit her when we hold our hands above her face...but thats a different matter). Give the sit command (we hold a treat in our hand and point a finger skyward while giving our command "sitz". Then we treat. Once they have that down, we don't drop the treat...we just make them wait for it. We give a sit command, and then count to 3 in our head toss the treat to our left or right while giving the release command. Gradually we increase the time. Then we start to add outside stimulation, it could be me jumping up and down...playing with toys...another dog interrupting the session, etc. Small steps and keep a journal, it really does help on frustrating days.

 

When folks come over, give the sitz or down command. We put a sign on our door warning people that our dogs are in training, and ask that they refrain from petting or interacting with them until they are not jumping on, licking faces of, etc. In that instance the reward is the human interaction (which for some dogs is better than any treats...if its not their super yay, then feel free to allow your guests to treat upon the correct behavior, keeping in mind that your going to fade this as well). Ask people to come over who can follow through with this. Do small practice sessions. The sit command provides the dog with the correct behavior, and one that he can't possibly be performing if he's jumping on people.

3. It doesn't happen overnight...but with practice, consistancy and lots of support Fritz can be a dog who doesn't jump all over people when they come into the home. I'd also tell them to consider training classes for him. It would go a long way to help getting puppy and people on the same page.

 

4. As the owner of a breed notorious for destroying things when they get bored or are under exercised...I'm also going to suggest harness work, and a backpack, consider agility (equipment is super cheap if you make it yourself). If there's a legitimate interest there I'd be happy to pass along helpful websites, where to pick up the correct harnesses, etc. I may even have an extra (though I am a harness hoarder).

 

Hope thats a wee bit helpful

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