XTRAWLD

We went through several vets and found that the ones that were best, were actually students at a practicing veterinary university! While we only went there for a specialized reason, it made me realize what to look for in a vet. Aside from their knowledge, there is one key thing we look for. Our very first vet was fabulous for this and I sort of regret leaving, however distance was the issue. The vet greets the dog first. The vet makes friends with the dog first. The vet gets down on the floor and interacts with your dog to gain their trust and friendship first. Then the vet greets the owners. I'm not saying the vet doesn't enter the room and not say hi to you, but doesn't get into crazy specifics and introductions without loving up on your dog first and foremost. IMO this is paramount and you really see what makes a vet shine when they put the dog and their best interest first. Of course you can't find this in everyone, but I ensure that every new vet I meet, I express how important this is to me. Greyhounds are different, and need to be treated differently via injections, anesthetic, etc.....as I'm sure others will add here and you will likely read. I just thought I'd touch on something that is different other than knowledge.

Fresh Factors and Joint Health have my vote here as well.

Maybe he's just having a headache and needs a time out. Good thoughts being sent your way!

If you found a prize on your walk, would you let it go? Your grey really didn't do much wrong other than trying to protect what was now hers. The problem lies with lack of training, and that's solely based on not having her long enough to work with her, or even get to know her. Deep breath, relax, this is something that can be handled with your grey.

Sudden and holding their leg up is pretty significant. My boy would limp usually only after overexertion (weekend warrior running around off leash when he normally doesn't) and this has been resolved by regular chiropractic treatments. My other boy has corns that don't seem to bother him in the slightest. Every dog reacts to pain differently. Obviously though, yours are uncomfortable and are showing it. I'd be thinking about something involving the spine like a pinched nerve by the shoulder or perhaps a disc?

Lovely tribute. Run free Orion.

Kasey was NOT A FAN OF WALKING when we first got him. He made me late for work several times, very very late. How bad is it to have that excuse for work - I couldn't walk my dog???!!! I was unfortunately stuck one morning, several hundred metres from home, because he statued. I sat on the curb on the road waiting for him to decide what to do, easily between 15-30 minutes. What got us going again? Another dog walking towards us. This peaked his interest enough to get moving, once moving I continued to match his pace, full run if that's what was needed, in order to get home. It was completely discouraging so I understand how you are feeling. I didn't want to take him for another walk ever again in my life. I have encouraged forward movement by physically picking up one paw at a time and moving it forward. He was not motivated to move by treats. Sometimes I would also push his butt from behind, sometimes turning him into a wheelbarrow to get moving..... Be assertive and firm in your mind when walking. Confidence is important. They really do feed off of that. I'm not sure how long you've had her, she's still getting used to this whole retirement deal. Remember if you go for walks to be consistent and have a routine, until she starts to like walking. Same time every day, same direction, same favorite potty spots. She needs to get used to her surroundings in order to get comfortable. It will not be like this forever, but you do have to be patient. Training and routine will help, but if she is breaking down, you will have to learn how to identify that and give her a break accordingly.

We've reset both boys alarm clocks, and actually with ease. Try working on increments of 15 mins at a time. When they start whining, compromise and let them out 15 mins later. Try that for a week. Repeat based off your new time. Now the only time we have difficulty with sleeping in is time change, but they are actually really good with understanding we don't always rise with the sun! And I forgot to add, they know when it's Friday and the meaning of Friday. Their whole attitude changes, and they know that the weekend (which is a different routine) is soon on the way!

Oh goodness. Spend lots of time with him and help him enjoy all the things he has in the past while you still can.

Awh, she's working on her tan! I think the same of Ryder when he sunbathes (worried about too much sun), but to be honest I don't consider putting anything on him. I figure when he's hot enough, he'll visit the shade I do however tend to hose him down if I feel he's been out too long. Please provide her with plenty of water though, and a shady spot to go to when she's done sunbathing.

We have put a chain in Ryder's food to slow him up, about a foot long and put it ON TOP of the food. You can get the plastic coated ones at any hardware store like Home Depot, Lowes, etc. http://www.playcraftsystems.com/images/planning/colors/SwingChain.jpg Something metal though so it's heavy, not plastic.

Hi and welcome. A most purdy pup you have there.

Interesting! I know it does wonders for hair and nails, nice to hear your success. Have you ever tried Fresh Factors? I can't believe the coat that has grown on Kasey after being on that for a month. I believe FF is ok for long term use. Melatonin is naturally occurring in the body, but I'm not sure regarding long term use in dogs, let alone humans. I know it helps me sleep great though, but I only use it occassionally when I have difficulty sleeping.

I used Kids version Off Spray with great results in deep woods. If the flies really get nasty we start upgrading to various forms of adult people versions, I know not the best idea, but I'll take that over them getting large welts from deer flies. Alternatively we have been using a product I picked up at a local picnic that is less harmful and so far is yielding great results. http://sadieandmitz.com/bug-be-gone-small/

Mucous is a sign that his insides are not happy and instead are irritated. A drastic change in feeding, more in particular the type of food change, not necessarily timing, could create this, as could a parasite. Walks, frequency/duration shouldn't contribute to mucousy stool. It could create loose stool or D, (in the case of my Kasey, when he's excited, his stool is loose), but mucous is a different indicator.

Look at the smile on his face. Welcome home Jimmy!

Hi Spriet! Atta girl!

How incredibly horrible. All our thoughts are with you.

50lbs! WOW! Certainly, you might even be able to get away with bone in one meal of the day, and not in the other to keep it steady (provided you are feeding twice a day). Depends on his system really. Feed more organ with the bone as well to even it out if needed.

Bone makes poop hard. Organ makes poop soft. These will be some guidelines as you go along to make the perfect ratio....each dog is different. Kasey usually needs less bone than Ryder for instance. It should be the middle amount for your ratios so yours sound way off. How much meat is on the bones? Should be more like 80% meat, 10% bone, 10% organ Honestly, prolly need one "hunk" but I have no idea how big that is in comparison to the rest of what you have. I've never tried pork neck bones. Might I suggest something a like turkey neck/leg or chicken instead? Would be a little easier to eat as well since it's softer. It really will take some trial and error to get it just right.

Yup - disgusting habit of Kasey. He especially enjoyed "poo pucks" - the frozen variety. And played with it too....UGH It was bad when we had a yard and didn't do regular pick ups. The vet gave us "Forbid" which when mixed with his food, produces an even worst smell/taste so that they would be less attracted to it - it's POO, why would we have to make it less attractive. Anyway, that really didn't work much either. Regular pick ups do. We only walk them now and pick up as we go obviously, so he hasn't had a chance to do this in quite some time, but I doubt a break from it would stop him. Good luck!

Kasey tolerates dominant males as "oh ya, you want to tell me what to do? I'll just run around with my tail high in the air and see if you little jerk can catch me" And then he'll stand there and go "nah nah, you can't tell me what to do." But he won't go in to do a "correction" to an offending dog, unless that dog has pissed him off and he'll turn around to snap. He's so carefree it's pretty funny, however he does rule the roost at home with Ryder and his ruling is so subtle and not very often that I forget how "dominant" he can be. For years, before we had Ryder we thought Kasey was the Omega in any pack, but oh how he proved us wrong. He's one confident pup. I think his dominance sits in the middle. He likely wouldn't be alpha in a big pack unless he had to be, but he'd certainly be right up there. I'm not familiar with growling to stake claim, but I can understand how you can be frustrated with others that are not aware of how dominant behaviour can be expressed. Perhaps they just don't have a lot of experience in big groups?

You will have to be the leader with who she will get her strength from to overcome her shyness. When out for walks take EVERY opportunity to introduce her to people, sounds, things. Just don't over stimulate her all at once. Ryder was a shy boy, actually still is after 3 years of having him, but he's overcome this with leaps and bounds. It really does take time and a little work. Kasey is a tanker and can hold it for 14 hours - I HATE when he does this, but he really can hold his quite a bit. Ryder never had a great bladder and never had a sign to tell us he had to go either. But he's gotten much better over the years and can make it over night without issue now. Last out for us is 9:30pm (unless they have had a lot to drink before bedtime) and first out is 6:30am. There is hope!

High value treats are the key. Cut up a hot dog and start training! You stand on the side he has to cross to get to you and coax him slowly over. Reward him heavily. Rinse. Repeat. Some people use a spray on their feet that makes their paws a little more tacky so they have more traction. Good luck.

IMO the harness provides power to a dog, and it's easier for them to drag you around, since they can use their chest and really get into it, with 80lbs and might in their hindquarters, it isn't difficult for them. HOWEVER, I prefer a harness for dogs that pull (based on experience) for 2 reasons: I'd rather hold him back with a harness than have him choke with a collar - they don't care if they can't breathe - if they are determined to go sniff that thing or say hello or scared out of their mind, they will do what they want to do - PULL. I feel I have more control, i.e. instead of just a leash on the neck when I need to bring him close and against me, I can grab a handful of harness on his back and more easily hold him in that position. I have one that was meant to secure them in the car (a big loop on the back of the harness - however we don't use it for that purpose). The loop provides a great grab handle for restraint. Can't remember the brand we have, but it looks like this http://www.rockshore.uk.com/ekmps/shops/rockshore/images/pet-harness-for-dogs-seat-belt-harness-large-medium-small-sizes-6545-p.jpg To be truthful, he took to the harness beautifully. When I first put it on him, he turned into a different dog. Slack on the leash, and just happier. Good luck!