3greytjoys

I agree with several posts including one quoted. I've been training dogs for many decades and have trained a good number of Greyhounds, all different personalities. I believe Greyhounds are highly intelligent and very sensitive dogs. Some are more independent (and smart) than others, but all have done well with positive method basic training. Definitely non-physical methods. Most dogs need a valuable reward for themselves to desire to take action: either high value foods and happy praise from their humans, or a special toy, etc. **The most simple way I've found to teach retired racing Greyhounds is to look for them doing something right naturally, catch the action and teach the word at the same time. Be prepared to instantly offer high value reward for doing the action.** A few common examples to help set hound up for success: 1. Teaching Down: Watch for hound to lie down on his/her own. Catch that natural action and teach word "down" each time they do that action for a couple of days. Be ready to reward with special treat instantly, and happily offer exciting verbal praise! 2. Teaching Sit: Many hounds will place their rear end down on the carpet/dog bed just before dropping into a full down position. Human can catch that exact moment: move to stand in front of hound to stop/block hound from dropping all the way down. Happily teach word "sit" at that moment while offering special high value treat. 3. Teaching Wait: Tell hound to "wait" before meals while you're still holding food bowl. Then happily say "release" as you place the bowl into the food bowl stand, allowing hound to begin eating. Also, practice "wait" command during other situations, like waiting before opening door etc. 4. "Come" (teach inside before attempting in fenced enclosure) needs major, rare high value treats, and/or favorite toy and a verbal praise party. Happily say hound's name first: "name + come". If hound doesn't respond well, make training more fun - try playfully running away from hound so hound chases you, then treat for coming. Consider time of day when hound is most hungry and energetic. ( #1 basic rule: Never call hound to "come" to human for anything hound doesn't find fabulously positively rewarding. If you need to do something hound won't be thrilled about (like a bath) human should calmly go get hound (vs. calling hound to come). Watch for these natural opportunities. After hound connects word to action, human can practice briefly by having hound "sit" once before each meal, etc. (Just don't expect a Greyhound to hold a sit position for long, it can be uncomfortable for some hounds. Please don't be concerned with side sit vs. straight sit. One may be more comfortable. If hound had a bad racing injury, please avoid teaching sit, it might be painful.) If human begins to feel any frustration. Stop training. A frustrated human will "shut down" a hound from feeling relaxed and safe enough to learn. Like children, dogs (especially retired racing Greyhounds) need consistency and function well when their world is predictable and positive. Just my opinion, it's not fair to be wishy washy allowing certain behavior sometimes but not all the time. Here, we happen to not allow hounds on human furniture for many reasons, but one reason is because over time many dogs can become too protective of their perceived personal resting space. Dogs don't understand why sometimes they're suddenly not allowed to sleep on their big comfy bed or sofa. (Imagine humans visiting a foreign country who wouldn't understand if someone suddenly forced them out of their safe, cozy room.) A dog's basic need is to feel safe in their own resting space. BTW, "off" may work better using a leash + treats, or once hound will come when called, you could try going into another room to shake a treat bag to call him "off" the furniture.

Welcome to GreyTalk, and the wonderful world of Greyhounds! Congratulations on your new adoption! Please let us know about your new hound once you're all settled.

I try to set hounds up for positive success naturally. (Caution for new readers: I would not recommend using any physical force with Greyhounds. Some will be so surprised and uncomfortable they may try to bite a human trying to physically "force" them into a position. The hound has no idea what's happening to them. Also, good to allow a little time to build up a trusting relationship with any new dog before focusing on obedience training (positive methods).) Below is my favorite method that can work well for Greyhounds who have trouble learning to rise up to sit (from a down position) when lifting treat above head. Watch for hound to walk over to lie down on dog bed or carpet naturally. (This is easy with Greys.) Get ready with yummy treat in hand, and quickly move closer to hound. Once hound's rear end touches the carpet or dog bed, their trusted person moves over to stand directly in front of dog. Person's body is blocking the hound (into a natural sit) while preventing dog from lying all the way down. Immediately say "sit" when hound's rear touches ground and offer treat, then verbally praise, praise, praise. Do this whenever the dog goes to lie down naturally. When hound connects the feeling with the word "sit" begin asking for a "sit" a few times daily (i.e., before presenting meals, treats, etc.). Try to keep practice sessions short to 2 or 3 repeats. They get bored very easily. If desired: A clicker can be used if you want to tell hound to sit, then "click" immediately when the hound's rear end touches the ground (or dog bed), but simply treating with food works fine in most cases. If hound isn't food driven a special squeaky toy can work as a reward. I use the word "release" to release dogs from an obedience exercise. I prefer that word because it's not often used in everyday language. ("Okay" is not preferred because it's too easy to use inadvertently during human conversations.) Greyhounds often love tripe, liver, plain cooked meat (chicken, beef, etc.), cut up bits of lowfat string cheese, even sample packages of a smelly kibble (like salmon or whatever is unlike their usual flavor). BTW, "down" is very easy to teach. Whenever hound goes to lie down naturally, say "down" as they drop into a down position, then immediately offer treat! They love that easy one! Good luck!

Hopefully nothing too serious. I suppose it could be arthritis/cold or maybe a pinched nerve. L.S. popped into mind as a possibility, but such a sudden onset without any previous trouble would seem odd, even for early stages of this diagnosis. http://www.greytheal...umbosacral.html Hopefully others will have different suggestions. Please let us know what you learn after your veterinary appointment. Good luck. Edited to add: I would not ask her to take a walk again before your veterinary appointment. I agree that Greyhounds are very stoic and she could be quietly feeling pain.

I agree about flea bites irritating her skin, and possibly weather. A flea comb can help you find (and remove) fleas and/or dark spects of flea excrement left behind. Innova is a better food, so you might give it a few months. (Natura recommends a slow, one month food transition.) Innova is made with a balanced amount of oil already in the food. Later, if a change is needed, CA Natural is a simple ingredient food that can work well for sensitive hounds.

Agree with Batmom and tbhounds. After you seek veterinary attention, and eventually start back on kibble, remain watchful. Hopefully unlikely, but it's possible it could be a batch problem in her kibble.

I'm so very sorry about Cooper's diagnosis, especially at such a young age. Hopefully peanut butter, Pill Pockets, food suggestions or a liquid oral medication will continue working for Cooper since he's especially shy. One of our hounds caught on to the terrible taste of Tramadol when she eventually bit down on a Pill Pocket. Our second trick was to pull off 1/2 of a "capsule size" Pill Pocket to hide Tramadol in a smaller bite to swallow quickly. Hidden pill was given as 2nd or 3rd treat with a couple more non-pill treats in view/given thereafter. (Beef flavor is Pill Pockets' best seller.) When that finally stopped working, I went to my old stand by for the next 6 months, a pill popper: http://www.entirelyp...om/pillgun.html I've used these pill popper tools with excellent success for decades for all my animals (including most difficult cats). This tool can really help, especially if administering many pills per day, and/or if nothing else works to help a hound swallow desperately needed pain medication. Cooper and your family are in our thoughts...

If you can get it in time, Aminocaproic Acid (trade name Amicar) helps clotting to prevent excessive bleeding in Greyhounds. Available from a compounding pharmacy in liquid form (beef flavor) or Costco's pharmacy in generic tablet form. Veterinary prescription required. Greyhound dosage is available in this link, see section "Treatment and Prognosis" (Aminocaproic Acid dose in blue text): https://greyhound.os...ancer/index.cfm Healing thoughts for poor Tempo...

If dental x-rays help prevent a following (second) dental with full anesthesia for a problem not caught during current dental, it could be well worth it. One of our seniors had approx. a dozen extractions. X-rays ended up saving other questionable teeth. We prefer liquid Aminocaproic Acid (beef flavor) because it's fast-acting and tastes like a yummy treat to hounds. (Nice to avoid administering extra pills when hound's mouth is sore.) Amicar (trade name for Aminocaproic Acid/EACA) compounded into liquid has one month shelf life. We place the order with a compounding pharmacy about one week prior to surgery. (Can take a few business days for pharmacy to order stock.) Three of our hounds are known excessive bleeders, so we begin their treatment a day or two before surgery day, especially for a more serious surgery. Dry form Aminocaproic Acid (one year shelf life) is usually much more expensive at retail pharmacies than liquid form; however, I found that Costco Pharmacy will sell Aminocaproic Acid dry tablets for a very affordable price (a generic to Amicar). I keep tablets stocked at home for a very rare emergency for my excessive bleeder with cancer. Re: your overheating comment: One of the best things you can do is request the first surgery slot of the day, or drop hound off immediately before surgery. That way your hound isn't beginning to overheat from stress while waiting in the kennel too long before surgery. Many overheating cases begin long before the hounds are placed under anesthesia. Just a little caution: Xanax can have the opposite affect on certain dogs. It makes our severe separation anxiety hound more tense and nervous. If Xanax is desired, I'd suggest testing it's affect on your hound a week or so in advance of surgery.

I happen to be in the camp of not sounding squawkers unless an emergency. As mentioned, rewards from pet owners are often not high enough (from hound's perspective) to warrant hound's repeated peak reactions. Peak reaction is needed for an escaped/lost hound in an outside environment full of distractions. Most racing Greyhounds arrive into retirement already trained with a squawker sound perpetually imprinted on their brain. One example: If I'm heading out on a lost Greyhound search, and move a large squawker to the car accidently making even a hint of a squawk sound, ALL our hounds jump to their paws rushing flying towards that sound, including our long retired (many years) seniors. Many hounds never forget that sound. (IMO, large squawkers are much more effective than small ones.) I'll add that not every Greyhound raced and some may not respond to a squawker, especially small squawkers (some extremely shy hounds might be scared), but if your hound is highly squawker reactive like most retired racers, they are an inexpensive tool that can help lure a loose hound back to safety. Our whistles are like a coach or physical education teacher would use. We keep one next to a treat container to give a short double whistle to call hounds over for an extra special treat. (We only give these high value treats once every few of weeks.) We keep whistles in cars for an emergency, and take on leashed hound hikes.

I consider squawkers one (of two) most important tools available to potentially capture a lost/loose Greyhound. We would not squawk ours on purpose to tease our hounds because we want them to respond just as seriously in an emergency as they did during their racing life. (The other most important tool (that we hope to never need) is a large live trap.) Here's a copy of my previous reply about predator calls/squawkers. Posted 12 October 2012 I agree with keeping squawkers available for emergencies only, not for play. Retired racing Greyhounds were extremely highly trained with squawkers during schooling/racing. Most pet owners aren't able to keep rewards HIGH enough without desensitizing some Greyhounds over time. We keep several squawkers in house and car (different sizes) for emergency use only for escaped hounds. We take both small/large sizes when traveling. Long retired Greyhounds remember that sound. I dropped one in garage while packing for a trip, awakening a pack of hounds suddenly ready to break through a closed door. In lieu of using a squawker for more casual recalls, we use a whistle to practice recalls inside house/fenced enclosures. Whistles are smaller, easily worn around human's neck, and sound carries well. Food treats coupled with positive verbal rewards are important throughout life for dogs who respond to coming when called.

I was taught to not leave a muzzle with a stool guard on when hound is not supervised. Worst case scenario: Hound could potentially choke/drown to death from fluid getting caught in stool guard. Even more risky if hound happens to vomit food + fluid while standing up and hanging head towards floor (typical dog vomiting position) which could create full blockage of tiny holes in stool guard. Sometimes, the plastic muzzle blocks stool guard holes. (Can be seen by looking inside stool guard if guard is placed on inside of turnout muzzle.) Even when stool guard is dry and hound is lying down resting, the stool guard/muzzle is sometimes pushed up against the nose, making it hard to breathe normally.

I agree with keeping squawkers available for emergencies only, not for play. Retired racing Greyhounds were extremely highly trained with squawkers during schooling/racing. Most pet owners aren't able to keep rewards HIGH enough without desensitizing some Greyhounds over time. We keep several squawkers in house and car (different sizes) for emergency use only for escaped hounds. We take both small/large sizes when traveling. Long retired Greyhounds remember that sound. I dropped one in garage while packing for a trip, awakening a pack of hounds suddenly ready to break through a closed door. In lieu of using a squawker for more casual recalls, we use a whistle to practice recalls inside house/fenced enclosures. Whistles are smaller, easily worn around human's neck, and sound carries well. Food treats coupled with positive verbal rewards are important throughout life for dogs who respond to coming when called.

We do the same for our hounds.

"Currently" it appears "Market Pantry" brand peanut butter NOT affected by this recall. (Archer Farms IS affected.) FDA is still adding new peanut butter recalls daily (including peanut butter ice creams, cookies, bakery items, etc.) with nut butter ingredients distributed from same plant in New Mexico, USA. If you're concerned about "Market Pantry", I'd suggest calling Target/Market Pantry's corporate offices to learn their manufacturing source for your item#. (Initially, Costco said our store areas' Kirkland peanut butter was not included in this recall, but when I asked which plant made my product, Costco confirmed it was manufactured at same plant in New Mexico (different equipment line). A few days later, I received FDA's revised notice of same plant's massive recall expansion going back to 2010. This includes our recent purchase of Costco's Kirkland peanut butter.) "Pill Pockets" or ground canned dog food are good alternatives (of many) if needed to medicate hounds. A pill popper tool, aka: "pill gun" works great. Entirely Pets (on-line) sells them for about $2 to $3. Works well for dogs and cats.

I agree that many hounds are gulpers; however, some hounds are kibble chewers. If chewers are toothless (or feeling gum pain from tooth infection) they often refuse kibble meals if not soft enough. BTW, our nearly toothless senior hound mentioned in previous post also has laryngeal paralysis requiring softened kibble, but periodically we need to soften kibble for our other hounds too. (New readers: Gum/tooth infection requires veterinary care ASAP to eliminate infection, pain, and to prevent dangerous bacteria from invading other body organs that can shorten hound's lifespan. Refusing food can be a sign of gum discomfort, as well as many other reasons.)

Long shot, but you might consider checking Seal carefully for any tiny ticks. Dogs can develop partial paralysis from ticks. One of our hounds had a TMI mini-stroke but it involved one entire side of her body, legs and head. She fully recovered within about 10-15 minutes. Seal's facial paralysis is clearly very different. Possible deep ear or deep gum infection comes to mind too. http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=632 Hopefully others will jump in to help.

We also feed our nearly toothless senior hound kibble soaked in water to a mushy consistency. Some kibble brands will soften enough within 30-45 minutes. (Room temperature for that length of time is okay.) Other kibble brands take longer to soften, so we prepare our hound's breakfast bowl the night before, store it in the refrigerator, then warm to lukewarm temperature in the microwave before serving. Dinner is prepped at breakfast time (same routine). Good quality kibble usually offers higher calories per cup than many canned foods so that should help keep healthy weight. (Example: Our kibble is 500+ calories per cup.) (Healthy Greyhound weight is usually being able to see last 2 ribs.) Brushing their remaining teeth daily becomes even more important when eating any type of wet food. We use CET pet toothpaste. (Poultry flavor is all our hounds' favorite.) If I'm too tired to brush hounds' teeth one night, I squirt CET Oral Hygiene Rinse on hounds' teeth to inhibit plaque and calculus build-up (which otherwise begins building within 24 hours). Helps breath too. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Same here re: current Kirkland peanut butter jars, but we'll return ours. Just because some healthy people (or healthy dogs) are not symptomatic for Salmonella doesn't mean the food is safe for everyone (or our dogs) to consume. It's still recommended to return (or discard) items listed in this recall. FDA and Sunland recognize that by expanding this recall some older products are nearing (or past) "Best by" dates, but some people may still have affected products on their kitchen shelves. Per FDA's news release: "Older adults, infants and those with impaired immune systems are more likely to have a severe illness from Salmonella infection." This statement could include sensitive/elderly dogs. Like Pam mentioned, over time dog food recalls were widely expanded from one plant. Also, recalls often expand by manufacture dates as FDA continues plant and food inspections. (I was informed this peanut butter plant does food safety testing every 30 minutes. It's unsettling their testing process repeatedly missed Salmonella. Seems Trader Joe's initially discovered this Salmonella problem.)

This recall includes products sold through COSTCO, TARGET, TRADER JOE'S, WHOLE FOODS, and MANY other stores. These products were distributed nationwide (from one plant) under many names including grocery or chain store private label names. Please see recall list below, and do not give these recalled peanut butter products (or other nut products) to your hounds. This new October 2012 recall now includes ALL products made from this plant since March 2010. FDA's Recall List October 4, 2012: http://www.fda.gov/S...rce=govdelivery

Oh Jan, This is beyond devastating... I am so deeply sorry for all of your terribly sad losses of your hound family. Our hearts and warm hugs are with you during this most difficult time. Rest painfree Pal and Mi Mi Sizzle Pants... :f_red :f_white

FDA Recall Notice: NATURE’S DELI CHICKEN JERKY DOG TREATS distributed to 57 Sam's Club locations in the following states: CO, IA, ID, IL, KS, MO, MT, NE, OK, SD, UT and WY. FDA News Release: http://www.fda.gov/S...rce=govdelivery

http://www.fda.gov/Safety/Recalls/ucm319021.htm?source=govdelivery

Amy, I agree with GreytNut re: reading the cake ingredient list for Xylitol. Xylitol is used in many food, vitamin, drug, chewing gum products and can be highly toxic to dogs in certain amounts. Usually very soft things (like cake) are okay to induce vomiting, but best to "call" an e-vet (even from afar), or poison hot-line if in question. (Poison hot-line charges a fee.) Please read full source link below (includes poison hot-line #): "HOW MUCH XYLITOL IS DANGEROUS? The hypoglycemic dose of xylitol for dogs is considered to be approximately 0.1 grams per kilogram of body weight (about 0.45 gram per pound). A typical stick of gum contains 0.3 to 0.4 grams of xylitol which means that a 10 lb dog could be poisoned by as little as a stick and a half of gum. The dose to cause hepatic necrosis is 1 gram per kilogram of body weight, about ten times more than the above dose. In the example above, the 10 lb dog would have to find an unopened package of gum and eat it for liver destruction to occur. TREATMENT Ideally, the patient can be seen quickly (within 30 minutes) and can be made to vomit the gum or candy. Beyond this, a sugar IV drip is prudent for a good 24 hours. Liver enzyme and blood clotting tests are monitored for 2-3 days. Blood levels of potassium are ideally monitored as well. Elevated blood phosphorus levels often bode poorly." Full Source Link: http://www.marvistavet.com/html/xylitol_toxicity.html

Here is Veterinary Partner's link re: electrocution: http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=360