3greytjoys

Here is the FDA's recall - firm press release (updated today): http://www.fda.gov/Safety/Recalls/ucm299606.htm?source=govdelivery

Willie is in our continued thoughts and prayers. Wishing you much strength during this challenging time. Hugs to you both.

Alicia, I am so very sorry for your loss of your special Ava... your wonderful heart girl. You were so thoughtful to give her a final gift of being able to relax in her own home surrounded by those she loved most. Godspeed Ava... That was a lovely memorial for your beloved girl. Caring hugs to you, your husband, Augie, and your extended family.

I think you're right on. He's walking me, rather than the other way around, which probably led him to be so discombobulated at times. Also, I started paying much closer attention to my own physical/emotional state recently and while I FELT relaxed, superficially, my body sure as heck wasn't, and my breathing wasn't fluid accordingly. So I've got tons to work with here, and the last 2 days I insisted on a moderate amount of heeling in our close to home area, where he's relaxed, and things have gone better than I expected. So I'll keep this up, and also keep focussing on my own tensions and breathing, and see where this will lead! Oh and believe me, I'll be super picky about the trainer. I'm a clicker training and positive reinforcement devotee! Great that you're realizing that your positive body language and gentle leadership plays a role in Tracker's behavior. Just remember, when teaching Tracker to heel next to your thigh that you don't need tension on Tracker's neck. Important to allow a few limited inches of slack in the shorter length of leash. (Careful that it's not too many inches of slack; his head needs to stay up to prevent his constant ground sniffing.) If he begins to pull (causing leash tension), try directional changes or a figure 8 to help him learn to watch/follow you walking nicely next to your left thigh. (Or you could stop in place every. single. time he begins to pull (if in relaxed setting) until he learns to stop pulling. That works too but it takes tons of human patience.) It's good that he's not much of a puller anyway. He should catch on quickly. As a side note: Tracker may beneft from mind stimulation games like hide and seek inside, or hiding toys for him to find in his yard, or hiding treats in dog puzzles. Have fun with whatever you decide to do!

Congratulations on your training success with Duncan so far! Glad the color contrast is working well too. Thank you for the follow-up.

Yea, good boy Daytona!! Outstanding dental report!! It's good that he had a thorough professional dental to clean deeply under the gumline. Now you can feel confident that oral bacteria build-up isn't damaging his internal organs. Wishing you and Daytona a long, healthy life together!!

I'm having a little trouble learning enough details of Tracker's specific problem behaviors. As I understand Tracker is "leash reactive" (without his behavior details), he zones out human's voice and treats, and "falls apart" seeing other dogs at the bluffs. Your last post mentioned that he's sniffing the ground too much. My original reply still holds true. Whether his focal or scent interest is the ground or other animals. You are his leader, if you don't want him sniffing a particular area during the walk. Don't allow him that much excess leash. Keep him next to your side, shorten his available leash (so he can't get his head to the ground), and walk at a rapid pace. (Be very careful to not to jerk or choke his neck). Leash does not need tension, but it does need to be short enough to keep his head up. (Hold excess leash in your hand.) He will quickly learn to keep his head up. The more he learns that you are walking him (vs. him walking you), he will stop trying so hard to keep his head to the ground, and he will join you on the walk. Later, long after being trained to heel very well (good walking habits solidified), Tracker could be allowed more leash (if you desire). All dogs enjoy sniffing and leaving pee-mail... that's how animals communicate so they need *some* sniffing during their walks. You can decide when and where to allow him plenty of extra sniffing time. (Example: We try not to allow our hounds to use people's groomed front lawns as a dog potty (it's illegal here anyway). Instead, we "power walk" past those lawns, but we do allow dogs plenty of time to sniff, mark, potty at the ends of short neighborhood streets, in fields, or a park. This way, they get needed exercise and doggie scent stimulation that makes them happy.) I realize Tracker has his own fenced 2 acre personal park at home (lucky boy!), so extra walking "exercise" may not be as important for him, but if you want an easier dog to walk enjoyably, I'd encourage you to work on heeling while gently, positively, happily teaching and rewarding Tracker. If Tracker is being too much of a handful for you during mid-day walks, I agree with others to tire him out a little more before attempting those walks. It's common for any dog to be happy to see another dog, especially if they don't have a canine playmate at home, but they can be easily trained to be polite when they see other dogs. Bottom line: Dogs do what works. Tracker is getting his own reward out of his behavior. It's up to humans to gently redirect and reward "pet" acceptable behavior. Dogs are learning from us in every interaction every day. It's up to us to ensure each interaction builds trust while molding new pet acceptable behavior. To answer your question: When I use a Martingale and a "Sense-ation" harness (same time) on a new hound, I use 2 separate leashes to control the collar separately from the harness. Good luck. I hope the trainer works out well for you. Please be careful to ensure the trainer only uses positive training methods. Greyhounds are super sensitive, intelligent, and they respond well to very gentle methods. Great to catch (and reward) them for doing something right naturally.

This is a key difference from other breeds. As we know, Greyhounds are sighthounds bred to be "independent" hunters. Greyhounds as "racers" can't be distracted during a race by people in an audience, or anything in their surroundings. This is why Greyhounds don't always listen to humans calling them in an outside environment (or even encouraging them off their comfy bed). As an independent breed, they can also have selective hearing, and be very stubborn. Your boy sounds hyper excited by the outside environmental stimulation. I would encourage you to keep taking him for walks to help eventually desensitize him. Not sure where Tracker is walking in relation to you when he's on leash: Is he walking out in front, or at your side? How many feet away from you, and what is the leash length? Do I recall correctly that Tracker is currently your only dog? There is a great dog harness called "Sense-ation". Leash hooks from the front chest. I love it for training fosters, full of energy, just off the track. http://www.softouchconcepts.com/product/sense-ation-harness I sometimes use a Martingale in conjunction with harness for a highly reactive hound, if I need to control their head and body. When on leashed walks outside, distraction is your best friend. Do not allow Tracker to fixate on deer, or other small critters. When you feel he is zoning out of control, try directional heeling changes to help break his target vision, and help him realize he is being lead by you. Keep your walking pace fast so he has no choice but to move with you (away from his target). BTW, it doesn't have to be an animal that sets him off, could be a piece of litter, or leaf carried by the wind... anything that moves. (Some Greyhounds are so highly prey driven they will try to climb trees to get to a squirrel.) Good to keep working with Tracker at home in his familiar environment for brief training sessions (5 minutes or less). Have a pouch of different types of high value treats on you. (String cheese cubes, hot dog pieces, tripe, etc.) Make it a fun game to "heel" on leash: His right shoulder next to your left thigh is standard. Call his name in a happy voice: "Tracker, heel." (Give command once, and please don't jerk his neck while you're walking.) Immediately begin walking in quick pace. Leash should be short (since he should be at your left thigh), but do allow a little slack in leash. Try to avoid neck tension while walking (not jerking or choking). Happily praise, praise, praise while he's walking politely next to you, and offer food treat rewards. When giving treats, great to encourage eye contact by presenting his treat from between your eyes and his eyes. Begin doing figure 8's, and directional changes to help him learn to stay close to your thigh while heeling. Also, practice stops and starts. Keep training sessions short and fun. If you get frustrated, stop until another time. (The reason it's important to keep him close to your side is for control and safety (his and yours).) After hounds learn to heel, I begin teaching "heel right" or "heel left". This is a BIG help for the dogs to have a respectful heads up of which way they're expected to turn, and it makes walking safer for humans. (Our hounds begin making the turn the instant they hear me say heel left / heel right. They are so proud of themselves during their turns. ) I hope some of this helps. Good luck!

Welcome to GreyTalk! We're glad you decided to join as an official member! Congratulations on your adoptions of Zafira and Oliver! They are both gorgeous hounds. Many of our Greyhounds continue to blossom more and more every year. We hope you enjoy your hound family as much as we do ours!

We hear ya! Our (then) 8 year old brood mom beat her own 2 year old during their post retirement fun runs. Guess thats why she was a brood.

I completely understand. Please try not to worry too much... Daytona needs your calm, happy, loving energy. We've had several successful dentals recently, two of whom were 10 year olds (one was high risk). One 10 y.o. didn't require any extractions, but the other had 11 extractions. The vet, nor I realized so many extractions would be required until in surgery. (I knew tooth brushing was becoming impossible on molars on one side, so I expected a few extractions. Also, painful teeth = slowed painful eating.) Both hounds feel so much better now. BTW, a dog-safe dental oral rinse is great to use during the week or two until brushing can begin again. (We happen to use C.E.T. Oral Rinse, but any dog oral rinse is better than nothing.) Positive prayers for Daytona, and for you...

Yea, so glad you decided to take the plunge for a sister for Penny!! Lucky "Treasure" has just scored the best life ever!!! She looks ecstatic about joining her new family!! We love all your pictures... please keep them coming!! (Our pack of Greyhound girls wholeheartedly agree with your decision. We're fortunate that two of our girls closest in age (3 years apart) are best buddy bookends, great playmates, and absolutely thrive together. All our hounds get along beautifully together, but those two are particularly close.)

I agree that it could be many possibilities. The gagging does seem like a little something caught up. Maybe a tiny kibble piece (or fur or dust ball) caught that could pass with water/digestion; a tiny partial obstruction (if it's moving, hopefully will pass in 24-48 hours); or kennel cough, etc. Please keep monitoring potty outings, and examining poop for a couple of days. I would feed water softened kibble for a day or two. John F and MaryJane brought up good points to consider re: Kennel cough, or reverse sneezing. Videos of each are available on the Internet. Any more episodes since you last posted? (Might help if you can take a video if it happens again.) Remote possibility worth a mention... If it turns out your dog is experiencing beginning episodes of "reverse sneezing" (usually extended neck, struggling to forcefully inhale through nose, combined with nasal exhale, accompanied with snorting and/or dry gagging), you might consider "nasal mites." Reverse sneezes can cause tender abdominal muscles (like people with bad cough). BTW, after a reverse sneezing episode, dogs can resume normal activity as if nothing happened. Successful treatment of nasal mites is simple (but not all vets are very familiar with them if uncommon in their region). Again, your hound could be experiencing something completely different if he's limited to throat gagging without any nasal involvement. Good luck with your boy.

We also like to consider our playful, spry 10 year olds only as young/early seniors. I agree with others that Greyhounds are considered longer lived than most large breeds. I've read that Greyhounds are included in these estimates... 7 - 9 year old Greyhounds are considered "Seniors". 10 and up are considered "Geriatric". Examples of dog to human year equlivalents: Dog = Human 8 = 55 10 = 66 12 = 77 14 = 88 16 = 99 17 and up + I'm going with 16 is the new 12 for our hounds.

Walking distance and duration depends on walking surface, hound's endurance, health and overall physical capabilities. If walking on sidewalks... If your first hound (adopted a year ago) is used to walking on sidewalks, 3 miles should be fine. (You could try a shorter distance as a test/circle closer to home at first.) If your new hound (adopted in January) hasn't been walking on hard surfaces much, he would benefit from building up to 3 miles more slowly. That would help him gradually toughen up his paw pads, and help him adjust to longer walking endurance. (He may have already built up some endurance during previous dog park visits, if running a lot.) The endurance comment may seem strange, but Greyhounds are sprinters, racing on soft surfaces, only lasting seconds, racing 2-3 times a week. Building endurance can take a while. I'd suggest taking a look at paw pads after walks for a few weeks to make sure they aren't wearing down raw, and watch hounds for signs of tiring (or overheating). As we approach warmer months, cement and pavement heat up quickly and can retain heat after the sun is setting. If a warm day, I often place my hand on cement to check for heat before walking (or standing with hounds too long). If too hot, paw pads can burn, and can be rubbed raw, requiring a long recovery period. During warm weather, we walk early morning or evening, before air temps reach about 70 degrees. BTW, I'm glad the visit with the Italian Greyhounds went without incident today. Personally, I wouldn't even consider allowing our "cat-friendly and small dog-friendly" hounds in an outside enclosure with another person's Italian Greyhounds (or any other small dogs) with whom they don't live. A common saying: "Outside = Game on". Many hounds are fine with small dogs they know, but it's a big risk to try it with other people's pets. Walking (or short hikes on easy to moderate trails) is super enjoyable with leashed Greyhounds. They have a wonderful time enjoying the exercise, fresh air, sniffing all the scents/doggie-mail, and visually scanning their surroundings with their human companion/s. Have lots of fun with your wonderful pair of hounds!

Many Greyhound adoption groups offer "Greyhound only" play dates where all Greyhounds are muzzled. Please check with your group about Greyhound only play dates. If they don't already offer them, your local group members might be willing to start one. That would be a much safer solution for your hounds. As others mentioned, general rule is all dogs muzzled or no dogs muzzled. If a Greyhound is the only one muzzled, muzzled hound can't defend him/herself from another dog's attack. Clearly, that presents a big problem in public dog parks, and puts you at risk if your hounds harm another dog. Many Greyhounds are instinctively prey driven (especially in an outside setting) and can become competitive, even when trying to coax other dogs to run (like the Greyhounds with whom they were reared). If another dog gets hurt or squeals, canine pack behavior is to attack the hurt dog. This happens faster than a human can run to pull their dog off the target dog. Greyhounds have such thin skin that another dog playing can easily rip a Gh's skin requiring expensive surgery. Some people "risk" taking Greyhounds to dog parks, many steer clear of dog parks completely. If people don't have a fenced yard themselves, they might find a fully fenced ball field to let their dogs inside for a quick run, or another Greyhound owner (or friend) might let certain hounds borrow their fenced yard. Other hounds do well with daily leashed walks or jogs. Good luck with whatever you decide with your hounds.

I understand all of the above. I also read that you asked for ideas or suggestions on your OP. My response to you was sharing hands-free waist leashes that we use in a multi-hound family (although the business owner will do custom orders if you prefer a "belt"). I included more information than I would in a PM because this is a public forum and many other readers might like to try your great idea, but they may not have dogs as well-trained as yours. (A few extra words could help save someone serious injury.) I had no way of knowing you have leather leashes that will not hold a knot from your OP. That was simply an idea that might have helped you until you order a belt, or could help other readers.

Can someone please tell me why we should listen to this guy? I am at a total loss why a human dentist with NO vet background and NO dog breeding background is an expert in canine nutrition. He claims to be an expert at "reading labels" which is exactly what he does. He has loaded his preconceived (not proven in time with many dogs) opinion on each ingredient in a food into a computer and posts what it spits out. 99.9% of the reviews are by the editor. I'd welcome anyone to provide more highly qualified dog food analysis links. I was simply trying to help OP find some ingredient data. I could not find (unbiased) scientific dog food analysis reports from a veterinary/animal nutritionist (with degree in animal science). Many dog food review sites are clearly linked to their own products. I simply mentioned the first link was run by a "doctor" since that individual has some medical background with a "doctorate" degree. (Higher sciences education than the average volunteer dog food reviewer.) No, he's not a veterinarian. Personally, I don't know many vets that freely discuss detailed data of many specific pet foods. Many vets sell "certain" foods... I assume GTers read data from many sources to form their own opinions. Nothing was mentioned in Pam's post about link #2. To clarify: That site is edited by a small handful of "volunteers with an interest in nutrition" from a Boxer dog forum. Since those dog loving volunteers do not work in the manufacturing plants of all dog food makers, seeing source ingredients, nor do they have access to protected recipes for each food, they too are relying on reading manufacturer food labels. They admit to making an "educated guess" in their reviews. Begin snippet from my original post: " 2. http://www.dogfoodan...g_food_reviews/ (I've been searching for government regulation with hard scientific nutritional data, but haven't unearthed such a thing (beyond FDA food labeling).)" End snippet. If anyone is interested, here is a desk reference book that looks interesting, but it's not a free Web site. It retails for $100.00. Applied Veterinary Clinical Nutrition, by Wiley-Blackwell. A link I didn't provide originally is www.Whole-Dog-Journal.com, which does name their specific food recommendations, but doesn't offer complete ingredient lists with guaranteed analysis for each food. There is a subscription charge. (I could be mistaken but I don't believe WDJ editor is an animal nutritional scientist either. I'm not sure with whom she collaborates.)

I used plain black mulch, nothing fancy, but it is a finer shred, that seemed softer to walk on than the bark mulch. I'm not sure how many dark mulches are sold across the U.S., but please make sure it is not cocoa mulch. (Cocoa mulch is toxic to dogs.) A good little splinter test: If you handle the mulch with your bare hands and don't get splinters, the dog's paws should be okay too. Good to check their paws periodically anyway. (The only mulch I could find with little to no splintering was "tumbled" playground bark.) After using your mulch for a few months, please let us know how you like the dark mulch. (Ours is the lightest color mulch for easier night time clean-up, but it all gets a little darker when wet anyway. Yours might be easier for day time clean up than ours.) Good luck with training.

I agree. We use adjustable waist leashes. The most important thing with Greyhounds is to actually *hold* the leash (when not picking up poop) to keep yourself and the dogs under control. (Waist leashes can be risky for someone not paying attention to their hound, or with balance problems. I don't use waist leashes for walking high-prey hounds. Also, I wait until just off the track hounds are taught to heel nicely before using a waist leash.) Leashes: www.fancyk9s.com A helpful trick for people using a standard leash is to tie a knot in the handle so it fits more snugly around your wrist. Again, gripping the excess leash carefully to keep yourself well balanced, and staying alert to the hound's intent. Dogs are in safer control when walking at human's side (not walking at the end of a 6' leash being allowed to criss-cross in front of human - very dangerous).

I agree about purchasing products with ingredients from USA. We steer far away from any known ingredients from China. Thank you for sharing the photos BrianRke.

All the dogs I've trained to use a designated dog potty area have been leashed for initial training. In another case (another house) we placed a temporary fence around the hounds potty area, and stayed outside with them to praise (and release) when they eliminated. Ex-pens work great with their ready-made gates, but cheap, rolled, plastic garden fencing with plastic free-standing posts (or fence posts) would work fine in your fully fenced yard. I'm curious what type of mulch you used?

News stations are currently reporting this suspected problem. http://www.dogfoodad...reats-suspects/

When analyzing dog foods with grains, my understanding is "whole grains" are preferred nutritionally. Some grains are more nutrient rich than others. Good to avoid grain "pieces" used as filler. Following are a couple of informative dog food review sites with good ingredient explanations. Dog Food Reviews: 1. http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/ (This site owned/run by a doctor.) 2. http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/ (I've been searching for government regulation with hard scientific nutritional data, but haven't unearthed such a thing (beyond FDA food labeling).)

I think the OP has received a clear message, and agrees with no off leash unless in a safely fenced space when they get their hound. My response is for other readers too. I agree with Greyt_dog_lover (Chad's) original post. One important exception to a latter comment. IMO, it doesn't matter if a Greyhound is loose in 1000 miles of open territory vs. urban area. Besides many dangers of populated areas, open space survival is just as challenging. In our region, there are plenty of mountain lions, bears and other predators that would devour the opportunity to kill a Greyhound. Very likely, few to zero human searchers available, and virtually zero potential for sightings. Besides the poor Greyhound struggling to survive (after a life of domestic protection), these Greyhound losses affect many other people than just the owner and the Greyhound. I'm still deeply affected by an unrecovered Greyhound that I (and a handful of others) traveled many hours to help form search teams repeatedly for months... about 4 years ago. Look at all the concerned GTers who do everything possible from a far to assist in Amber Alert postings across the globe. Here is an excerpt... Posted 09 December 2011 - 12:53 PM Posted by DonnaBehr, Post #5 GT thread: "Trust to Come Back" "Read --" "TRUST – A Deadly Disease By Sharon Mathers (Excerpt from Summer 2005 issue of GCNM News) There is a Deadly disease stalking your dog: a hideous, stealthy thing just waiting its chance to steal your beloved friend. It is not a new disease, or one for which there are inoculations. The disease is called TRUST. You were told before you took your dog home that it could not be trusted. The adoption group, who provided you with this precious animal, warned you, drummed it into your head. "These dogs steal off counters, destroy anything expensive, chase cats, can take a while to housetrain, and must never be allowed off lead!" When the big day finally arrived, heeding the sage advice, you escorted your dog to his new home, properly collared and tagged, the leash held tightly in your hand. At home, the house was "puppy-proofed." Everything of value was stored in the spare bedroom, garbage stowed on top of the refrigerator, cats separated, and a gate placed across the door of the living room to keep at least part of the house "puddle-free." All windows and doors had been properly secured and signs placed in all strategic points reminding all to "CLOSE THE DOOR!" Soon, it becomes second nature to make sure the door closes nine tenths of a second after it was opened and that it really latched. "DON'T LET THE DOG OUT" is your second most verbalized expression. (The first is, "NO!") You worry and fuss constantly, terrified that your darling will get out and a disaster will surely follow. Your friends comment about who you love most, your family or your dog. You know that to relax your vigil for a moment might lose him to you forever. And so the weeks and months pass, with your dog becoming more civilized every day, and the seeds of TRUST are planted. It seems that each new day brings less destruction, less breakage. Almost before you know it, your mischievous and once-unreliable animal companion has turned into an elegant, dignified, trustworthy friend. Now that he is a more reliable, sedate companion, you take him to more places. No longer does he chew the steering wheel when left in the car. And darned if that cake wasn't still on the counter this morning! And, oh yes, wasn't that the cat he was sleeping with so cozily on your pillow last night? At this point you are beginning to become infected. The disease is spreading its roots deep into your mind. And then one of your friends suggests obedience. You shake your head and remind her that your dog might run away if allowed off lead, but you are reassured when she promises the events are held in a fenced area. And, wonder of wonders, he did not run away, but came every time you called him! All winter long you go to weekly obedience classes. And, after a time, you even let him run loose from the car to the house when you get home. Why not, he always runs straight to the door, dancing in a frenzy of joy and waits to be let in. And, remember he comes every time he is called. You know he is the exception that proves the rule. (And sometimes late at night, you even let him slip out the front door to go potty and then right back in.) At this point, the disease has taken hold, waiting only for the right time and place to rear its ugly head. Years pass – it is hard to remember why you ever worried so much when he was new to your home. Now, he would never think of running out of the door left open while you bring in packages from the car. It would be beneath his dignity to jump out of the window or a car while you run into the convenience store. And when you take him for those wonderful long walks at dawn, it only takes one whistle to send him racing back to you in a burst of speed when the walk comes too close to the highway. (He still gets into the garbage, but nobody is perfect!) This is the time the disease has waited for so patiently. Sometimes it only has to wait a year or two, but often it takes much longer. He spies a dog or cat across the street, and suddenly forgets everything he ever knew about not slipping out doors, jumping out windows, or coming when called. Perhaps it was only a paper fluttering in the breeze, or even just the sheer joy of running….stopped in an instant. Stilled forever – your heart is as broken as his still beautiful body. The disease is TRUST. Its final outcome – hit by a car. Every morning my dog, Shah, bounced around off lead exploring. Every morning for seven years he came back when he was called. He was perfectly obedient, perfectly trustworthy. He died fourteen hours after being hit by a car. Please do not risk your friend and your heart. Save the trust for other things." (DonnaBehr) "Editor's note: I have personal experience with this disease: one of my dogs exited from my van and, instead of running into the garage as he always had, ran into the nearby forest. He was lost into an unforgiving landscape creating confusion which interfered with his navigational skills I thought were so keen. He was never found, despite the efforts of a large, dedicated search party assisted by a scent hound." -End Post Quote-