3greytjoys

Good to stop allowing her on human furniture for now (and probably for at least 6 months or so). Her reaction of acting as if she's keeping intruders off "her" sofa is not uncommon, (same thing with the bone), especially for a new hound in a new home. Actually, calling the hound off the sofa with treats is fine, good if you're calling her into another room for a treat. (You are rewarding her for getting "off" the sofa.) That is a much safer method than risking a snap or bite from physical handling. Please know these things happen with many dogs, and most are successfully worked through. I'd suggest humans leave her alone whenever she is lying down on her bed, etc. "Let sleeping dogs lie" (even if they're awake). Better to wait for her to approach humans on her own whenever SHE feels ready for attention. Similar to a cat who becomes over stimulated by petting, the hound may feel an overdose of stimulation (human petting and attention) too. Quietly hand feeding her full meals for a few days while human is sitting on the floor (looking away from dog = no direct eye contact) often helps shy/fearful dogs bond with humans. Here is a good article about canine Calming Signals: http://www.canis.no/rugaas/onearticle.php?artid=1 Please take a look at the Questions and Answers section (in link above) for fear aggression too. Only your hound knows if she were mistreated in her past... If she happened to be mistreated by a male, that may be why she's more apprehensive and fear reactive towards you. Your calm patience will go a long way in helping her build trust towards humans. I imagine you'll be amazed at her progress this time next year. Just my opinion, these dogs are the ones who are the MOST rewarding because they can blossom so well over time. Good luck with her.

I completely agree with both replies, above. Also, good to have a fecal test done to ensure he's clear of parasites. If he has runny stools, he probably can't "hold it" as long as he normally would. If fecal result is clear, brand of kibble can make a difference in firm stools. (One that works well to firm up stools is California Natural, Lamb and Rice.) Greyhounds are extremely sensitive dogs. They learn things better with positive training rather than negative punishment. Punishment destroys the "trust" relationship between dog and owner. If trust is damaged, it takes a ton of happy, positive, encouraging behavior to rebuild trust (and calm, relaxed behavior). I'm not sure how long Case is left alone during day, but some hounds (especially new hounds) need to relieve themselves every 4-6 hours during the day. Some people arrange to come home at lunch to let their dogs outside (if they don't have a dog door to a securely fenced yard), or they arrange for a dog walker or neighbor to take the dog outside mid day. Another possibility is anxiety. If a dog is anxious, they cannot physically hold urine and bowel as long as they can when not stressed. You can search "separation anxiety" if you think that may be part of your situation. Newly retired racing Greyhounds have never had to learn to "ask" to be let outside. Someone has always appeared to let kennel hounds out on a regular schedule (about every 4 hours during day). Considering a newly adopted hound, "signs" of needing to go outside is something humans need to watch closely to figure out. Some examples of "signs" (or lack thereof) to watch: After resting (or playing), hound stands up, maybe stretches, maybe walks over to water bowl for a drink, may just return to bed (but still needs to potty). Hound might approach human (as if looking for petting), but human misinterprets hound's "need to go potty" behavior as hound wanting attention. Hound walks over to "stand" next to human ("waiting" until human gets message). If lucky, hound walks near door, might stare towards door or human. (Don't count on this one.) Hound pacing, or circling, and/or sniffing floor is an alert to rush hound outside, pronto! Example of potty break timing: When they wake up. Within 15 minutes after eating breakfast. Before humans leave the house. Immediately when humans get home. Within 15 minutes after dinner. Just before going to sleep at night. Even though our hounds have scheduled potty outings at least 6 times a day, I taught them to ring a bell (hung on the door knob) if they need to go outside to potty before their regular potty break. (Initially, I rang bell every time door opened for their potty break. Later, they did "touch" training with yummy treat rewards + reward of door opening.) It's an excellent clear communication between dog and human, but the human **must respond immediately** to open the door when the dog rings the bell! Good luck with your boy, and try to be patient. Thank you for asking for help from GTers.

http://www.fda.gov/Safety/Recalls/ucm305509.htm?source=govdelivery Franck's appears to be based in Ocala, Florida: http://www.francks.com/

Thank you greysmom, tbhounds, and krissn333 for your responses. Every response is helpful. I will PM greytdecals too.

Has anyone's hound had a front outside toe/digit amputated for a limited pathologic fracture? If so, did it eliminate all limping and osteo pain?

Fabulous news!! Thank you for this excellent update. That is a pretty good size surgical wound, so I'm not surprised she's not ready to run after only 2 weeks. She's a smart girl. Positive thoughts for Sophie's continued successful healing.

Pam's suggestion is what I was thinking for your future trips too. Many dogs are sensitive and don't fare too well in kennels or daycare. Could you contact the closest Greyhound adoption group/s to ask for suggestions of other "Greyhound experienced" adopters to contact for shared petsitting? It would be helpful to develop a Greyhound savvy contact now, before your next trip. If that adoption group has a local Greyhound member forum, they might allow newer area residents to join their forum. This could be an excellent local resource for you. Another idea: You might consider reposting to Greytalk in "Everything else Greyhound" asking for Greyhound sitting exchange in your region. Good luck.

Excellent tips! Future idea (also mentioned by Remolacha): I've used these pill guns for decades and love them for dogs and cats. (I'm currently giving 12 pills/capsules to different dogs each day, including dog yucky tasting Tramadol tablets. The pill gun works like a charm.) http://www.entirelypets.com/pillgun.html Combining the pill gun with jjng's excellent suggestion of adding a little water to the front of the mouth should make it even easier. Following up with a yummy treat often helps, along with a happy "good dog" voice so dog associates it with a happy event. The other device I use a lot for our animals is a pill cutter (available at most drug stores for a few dollars) .

Just checking on Sophie... I hope she's eating, and her excessive brusing is beginning to clear up well(?).

Just a thought: The containers might be manufactured shorter for humans with different arm lengths to access the bottom of the containers. Also, the manufacturers likely expect people to pour kibble out of the 40# bag to fill every crevice. The 55 QT. size (Almond) may work well after the kibble bag's top is cut open allowing excess air to be released. If you have space, the 69 QT. should be plenty large. If you care about food grade plastic, look for that notation, or BPA Free in the description. Here is the manufacturer's link for Iris: http://www.irisusashop.com/Index.asp?KB=KAISO&CID=115&L=0&page=2 (BTW, I can gently place tall 40# bags in the 47 QT. size, but the top of new bags of food sticks out above the container. I don't recommend that for others who want to keep kibble in it's own bag since the lid can't be closed immediately. Our kibble level drops so fast that we don't expect to lock the lid for the first couple of meals. Our hounds are not left alone with the containers so it's not a problem here. If we were buying new containers, we'd get the next size up.)

Below is the current recall list from Diamond: http://diamondpetrecall.com/

Wellness http://www.fda.gov/S...rce=govdelivery Natural Balance http://www.fda.gov/S...rce=govdelivery Canidae http://www.fda.gov/S...rce=govdelivery Apex http://www.fda.gov/S...rce=govdelivery

Glad you brought up this important topic. We've had these containers for several years. Most importantly (for us) the plastic is FDA approved as safe "food grade" plastic. (Non-food grade plastics can transfer undesirable chemicals into the food, and be problematic for people or hounds with odor sensitivities.) The 47 Qt. holds a 30# bag well, but anything larger needs the next container size up. http://www.amazon.com/Airtight-Storage-Container-Quart-White/dp/B002R0EZQG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1336373216&sr=8-2 The "Top Paw" container (posted by Gryhndsr4us) looks good with nice size options, especially if it's FDA approved as a "food safe" grade plastic. (When I was last researching food containers, I couldn't find well-sized FDA "food grade" plastics at pet stores. I hope that's changed by now.) All pet kibble manufacturers with whom I've spoken about kibble storage recommend storing kibble in it's own bag. Reason: Kibble oils coat the inside of food containers. The leftover oils go rancid quickly, and can make pets ill. (All the recall problems make this recommendation even more important.) Otherwise, they recommend thoroughly washing the food container with soap and warm water, and DRY very, very thoroughly before pouring each new bag of food in container.

Humm, assuming you've already examined his paws very carefully for a foreign object, you might look for any excessive licking of a paw or leg. I wonder if walking on wet concrete surfaces reduces the pad toughness over time. I would think the exaggerated limp is of more concern. A few things come to mind: Many hounds are so stoic and they want to go with us so they try to keep up. Whenever our hounds are showing signs of any discomfort (i.e., slowing on walks), we pay close attention and turn around when they look ready. We don't push them. I figure they know how their bodies are feeling (or hurting) better than we do. We usually don't walk hounds who are limping (unless directed to by vet, which is rare). When we get newly retired hounds in with soft pads from the tracks (who don't have a limp), we begin walking them for very short outings for weeks beginning with 5 minutes, then 10 minutes, building time increments slowly until their pads have a chance to toughen up. (Our own hounds are used to walking on sidewalks for years, but they still walk tenderly over rough pavement.) If Hermes has had a limp since he retired, I'd be inclined to have an X-ray taken to see what is causing his limp. It may be fixable. On the other hand, some hounds may have had a previous injury that makes walking longer distances (or running) too painful and difficult. We've had a hound that had miniscule pieces of gravel work deeply into a paw pad (happened in only one walk) even though we wiped off his pads and thought we got it off, pad grew over the embedded gravel. A simple surgery fixed up that hound well. We happen to have a hound with a tiny bone fracture now. In her isolated case, no walks for 8-12 weeks. Good luck, and let us know if you can find the reason for this newer discomfort. Could be just about anything.

I agree that Biotene antiseptic gel can work well for gum infections (covers antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral). Directions state to use it twice daily for 5-7 days. (Not for on-going long term use.) I also thought about PetzLife, but didn't recommend it because I was surprised to learn many veterinarians do not recommend it due to questionable safety of ingredients for dogs (i.e., grain alcohol, grape seed extract, etc.). Just something to consider, particularly if using long-term. (My thought was it has to be a VERY strong product if it does what it claims.)

Humm, you can probably zoom into the original photo better on your computer, but I think I *might* be seeing 1 or 2 teeny tiny discolorations (foreign objects or holes?) in the middle of the open wound. (I assume no chance part of a foxtail could have dug it's way inside the paw either?) Maybe you can see a side view of that side of the toe.

Happy 6th birthday, Sophie!!! Great news that she's improving today!!! I'm glad you consulted OSU about her extreme excessive bleeding, particularly coupled with her seizures. Will be interesting to learn if they are satisfied with 5 days of Amicar, or if they recommend any treatment beyond that. Please give Sophie extra birthday kisses on her "kissy spot" on her head.

How often do you suggest a pro dental cleaning? My only worry about a cleaning is my girl had a pro dental 2 days before we brought her home and I began brushing within the first week yet the bloody gums were present even then. Also I'm not thrilled with our current vet and would not feel comfortable entrusting Gracie to their care for a procedure involving anesthesia. I've asked my adoption group to recommend a Grey savvy vet in my area and I'm still waiting for a response. Just out of curiosity, why is Hydrogen Peroxide a bad choice? I haven't used it in a long time. Just wondering. Thanks again! I understand your concern re: finding a top notch Greyhound savvy veterinarian. If your hound was fortunate enough to have had a thorough dental recently, it is possible keep tartar "under control" with home attention starting today. (Just don't expect the exisiting tartar to magically disappear.) You may not "see" the usefulness of your effort, but you CAN help prevent more soft plaque from forming deeper layers of hardened tartar. Even after a professional dental cleaning, if soft (easily removable) daily plaque is ignored, hardened tartar accumulates to surprisingly measurable amounts within 6 weeks. Daily soft plaque begins to harden into tartar within 36 hours. That's why a quick, gentle daily brushing is best. I was taught (by a veterinary dental specialist) to brush each section 10-12 times. I wholeheartedly agree that seconds of daily home dental care is worth it's weight in gold vs. requiring excessive veterinary dental care. Important to remember: The more severe the tartar build-up, the LONGER the hound has to be under anesthesia for cleaning (and/or extractions). Longer anesthesia means greater risk to hound. Our hounds vary re: professional dental needs. One senior has needed a pro dental every 1 to 1.5 years. (He retired later in mid-life, dental health was left unaddressed for years.) Our hound with best dental health can easily last 3+ years between professional dentals. Along with regular gentle tooth brushing, and periodic oral rinse, she is our top Durachew chewer. (She has high anxiety, so chewing Durachews also act as a stress reliever for her.) Our other hounds' dental needs fall between the best and worst case hounds. You could try C.E.T. Oral Hygiene Rinse while your hounds gums are healing from bleeding. Then, a finger brush (with tiny soft rubber bristles) with pet toothpaste (or gauze wrapped around your finger) until the gums are ready for a regular dog toothbrush (with softened bristles under hot water). To answer your good question re: Hydrogen Peroxide: My understanding is Hydrogen Peroxide destroys healthy cells. This is one reason it is not recommended (by many in the medical profession) for use on cuts/wounds. It impedes healing, and creates capillary embolism. Hydrogen Peroxide is too harsh on dog's mucous membranes and should not be swallowed. (Exception is a rare veterinary emergency, if vet directed to induce vomiting for something more toxic and harmful to dog that is "soft" enough to not do esophageal damage if soft item is vomited back up.) Even under emergency veterinary care, Hydrogen Peroxide can flow into lungs and cause aspirate problems, other serious medical problems; internal stomach ulcers, etc. HP is an oxidizing agent (and acid). Hydrogen Peroxide (obviously in varying strengths) is used as an industrial chemical in municipal sewer systems, even in nuclear reactors to eliminate corrosive products.

Her pad hardening might be a deep rooted corn that hasn't fully surfaced yet, but could also be something more simple like infection or mineralization. This link shows the inside of corns: http://www.grassmere-animal-hospital.com/corns.htm (One of our hounds has had a hardened pad for years, but it didn't cause her a painful limp.) Congratulations on your good dental efforts. Re: gingivitis. I'm guessing if she's not interested in chewing real bones for very long that her gums may be painful. If bleeding gums are a problem, you can try holding toothbrush bristles under hot water before brushing. That softens the bristles, so if you're brushing with a very gentle touch, it's not as hard on the gums. (Glad someone suggested you stop using Hydrogen Peroxide.) The only thing I know of that safely removes tartar/calculus (besides safe bones) is a professional cleaning. As we know, once tartar begins building up, bacteria begins adhering to the tartar on the teeth and creeps deeply underneath the gum into the root area, and moving into the blood stream to organs. Helps to feed kibble (wet down with water immediately before serving is good to prevent choking). In contrast, feeding soft canned food is terrible on teeth. Canned food coats teeth and stays on teeth creating problems. Any canned food should be brushed off teeth soon after meals. The best way to keep ahead of tartar build-up is a professional veterinary cleaning, then gentle daily brushing. IMO, the best pet toothpaste is C.E.T. (Poultry is our hounds favorite, but beef is "tartar control" so we alternate with that one too.) Available at low prices: www.entirelypets.com We use C.E.T. Oral Hygiene Rinse directly on the teeth of a senior who can't tolerate brushing on one side right now. (We use same C.E.T. rinse during the week after pro dentals, until we can resume brushing.) C.E.T. chews are good for helping reduce plaque, but again, they don't break off already formed cement-like tartar formations. (Should be supervised and taken away when chews get too soft and too small. Use a "trade up" treat method, if needed to take back a chew.) Finally, if your Nylabone is a true "flavor" (chicken, bacon, or liver) don't give up on it forever. She may develop an interest in months/years to come. Try frequently smearing peanut butter on the Nylabone to entice interest. (Our hounds like flatter shapes more than giant round shapes. Flatter is easier to hold and chew). Hard Durachews for dogs over 50 pounds are safest for Greyhounds and are GREAT for keeping dentals to a minimum. That said, some dogs are simply not big chewers. Bully sticks can be dangerous causing intestinal damage/blockage problems. Like with any "edible" chew, constant supervision is very important. Good luck...

How is Hermes walking inside the house? Is he avoiding hard floors, trying to stay on carpet? What time of day is he walking outside? Is it in sun, or shade? I didn't recall that Hermes usually has a limp. Can you elaborate a little more about his limp? Can you take photos of his paw pads? (Ideal is taking photos of dry pads first, then taking photos of wet pads. Then it works well to "zoom in" on a computer to examine pads much more closely than viewing pads with the naked eye.) You might try a test of leaving Nash at home while taking only Hermes on a walk. (Although, I'm guessing he's more likely feeling some physical discomfort rather than a behavioral issue.)

Lindsay, I sent you an email. If you haven't seen it yet, please check your email account/s. I hope Sophie is improving today...

Wow, Lindsay! I'm relieved you started treating Sophie with Amicar (Aminocaproic Acid). Sophie's bleeding is quite severe. Could any of her other medications be complicating her excessive bleeding issues? I would try to send these pics to OSU for their input. Normally, I wouldn't recommend that, but I do in her case. Please see following treatment section (blue text) for Aminocaproic Acid dose range: https://greyhound.os...ancer/index.cfm Viewer caution: Photos of excessive bleeding cases post op. https://greyhound.os...eders/index.cfm We have 3 excessive bleeder hounds. They can begin excessive bleeding on the operating table (and/or within 3-4+ days post op.). One of our hounds began spontaneous bleeding a couple of weeks ago (not even a post op.). That hound was nearly clear of excessive subcutaneous blood within 5 days of Aminocaproic Acid treatment. None of our own hounds have been as severe as Sophie's "post op." while at home. One hound bled very badly during a surgery (before we started using Aminocaproic Acid) but vet was finally able to stop her surgical bleeding. Now, all our hounds (excessive bleeders or not) get liquid form A.A. for every surgery. (There are a few hounds who shouldn't get A.A. but a vet can read drug cautions.) As Robin mentioned, I agree about watching Sophie like a hawk and getting her back to vet if she worsens or doesn't improve soon. (We saw a bad situation after a full amputation of a hound's leg, but that was withOUT any Aminocaproic Acid.) Please remember to ask your vet if any of Sophie's medication mixes could be compounding her problem by causing additional internal bleeding. Prayers for Sophie's rapid recovery.

If anyone missed the second part of the FDA notice, it includes a second food product recall for Diamond Naturals Lamb and Rice. http://www.fda.gov/S...s/ucm299606.htm (Thanks to others who posted about "Diamond Naturals" food recall last week.)

http://www.fda.gov/Safety/Recalls/ucm302137.htm?source=govdelivery

We have a couple of extremely paw/nail sensitive hounds. Our most difficult hound to nail trim requires two humans. We go into a carpeted transition room (away from dog's "safe zone" dog beds). We basket muzzle him first. While dog is standing, one person keeps hounds attention by non-stop hand feeding of small cubed HIGH value treats that hound never gets any other time. He also holds hound's collar. Second person wears small head/hat light, and clips nails. (We don't let dog see/notice the head light.) We keep a blood clotting product with paper towels within arms reach, just in case. All of our hounds allow dremeling which is ideal, except this boy. He still freaks if he hears the dremel, even from afar. I understand the previous poster was in a unique situation, but for others (especially a new Greyhound owner) I respectfully disagree with a scruff shake, especially for Greyhounds. They are a sensitive breed with thin skin and very sensitive necks. The OP already has a highly touchy/paw sensitive animal. We have no idea if that dog was mistreated in the past, or what painful events caused the hound's paw sensitivity. That method could be asking for more trouble. It often BACKFIRES by teaching certain dogs to become reactive aggressive towards humans, not to mention medical problems. It could seriously risk damaging any TRUST the hound has built up for the new owner, and could be asking for their hound to attack them. In my opinion, humans gaining and keeping their dog's trust is the most important thing for any owner. A veterinarian should be able to clip the hound's nails, if nothing else works at home. (I think our vet charges about $15. but they've only done our hounds when they happen to be in surgery for a dental, etc.)