GeorgeofNE

You've got it exactly right, and until you have him trained to a reliable off-leash recall, I'd keep him on a leash. Every time you call a dog and he ignores you and there are no consequences, he learns that "come" is more of a suggestion than a command!

I believe, unless you specifically select the coverage, cancer isn't covered in the standard VPI policy. Good luck.

I'm not sure what the point is about children/treats/meet & greet. You had two dogs squabble over food. Not the same situation at all--but personally I don't let very small children near my dog unless they are children of people I know. Just not worth the trouble if, heaven forbid, anything should happen. And of course I think parents who have very small children who let them get too close to large dogs they don't know are not thinking clearly--but I don't think the situation you describe is reason to be concerned about the meet & greet issue.

George is basically fearless--except the wind! I don't know if it bothers his ears or what, but he HATES being outside when it's windy!

If he won't come at the dog park, he's not going to come at the beach. He no doubt knows exactly what the whistle means and is choosing to ignore you. I don't know if would work so much with a Greyhound, but I have always used the long line method to teach recall. Basically your dog drags a simple long leash (cotton webbing--available most places that sell any kind of training gear) around, and when you're beginning, you NEVER issue the command "come" until you have the end of that leash under your foot. You called "come" and if the dog doesn't start towards you IMMEDIATELY, you reel him in by means of the rope. The theory being that you, the issuer of the command, have some magical powers the dog can't quite figure out to make him to come to you. Every time you give a dog a command and have no means to follow through, he's learning a little bit more that you CANNOT make him do it. So having control from a distance is key-- You'd need to start this with no distractions in a fenced area. Do not repeat the command--issue it, reel him in, treat. Repeat. Over and over and over! Disclaimer: I grew up with hunting dogs. This is how they were trained. My last dog was a mix. That was how HE was trained. Eventually he knew voice, whistle, and hand signals for "come." But I NEVER let him loose without his line on until he was solid.

Interesting--there are lots and lots of people who swear that the full moon influences behavior, but I recently read a report that talked about their being no actual evidence to support that beyond anecdotal stories. I've never noticed it myself--my mother swears that my father, who has Alzheimer's and is almost completely "gone" mentally acts up during the full moon.

My suggestion is take him to your vet and have the tech cut the nails while you wait, out of sight, in the waiting room! Oh, you meant to get him over it? Probably just what you did--just touch his feet gently and often, and maybe he'll get over it. Maybe not.

Just to emphasize the point: every year we hear about Greyhounds that die of heat stroke. They're much more sensitive to heat than most other dogs, so keep that in mind!

I'd make sure she was in a pen near you--not the crate--if possible. I'd also take her out ON A LEASH and make a big deal when she tinkles. Don't just send her out the door. She needs to learn she's out there for a reason!

I took George to a specialist; it's actually a fairly EASY preliminary diagnosis using "Dr. Stack's method" (which I believe is actually something Dr. Stack borrowed from another doctor). We also did regular x-rays. A definitive diagnosis would require MRI. But I asked if the treatment plan (I would never even consider the surgical option--my dog is 7, and barely survived a dental, never mind major spinal surgery!) would be ANY different with a preliminary vs. definitive diagnosis, and the vet said no. I don't have the $2,600 they charge for an MRI just to be positive about something they can't really do much for (aside from the major surgery), so I saw no point.

Just a quick "FYI." Greyhound skin is exceptionally fragile. Please don't assume the worst about any scar your hound might have! She could well have gotten those playing as a puppy! George's skin split in three places once when he TRIPPED and fell on the stairs!

If the smell of urine is in your FLOOR, she can still smell it, and she probably thinks of that as her special pee spot now. It's really important to COMPLETELY remove the odor. You said she's uncomfortable down there--any idea why? Is there a noise (furnace?) she might not like? Something going on? You might try putting up an x-pen when she's down there with you, and keeping her where you can see her, and not just letting her roam around. You should also probably, just to rule out medical things, take a urine sample to the vet to make sure she doesn't have a mild UTI.

Did you say Greyhound's "humanness"?? I have to say, having had dogs my entire life, literally, George is the LEAST human and most DOG dog we've had in the family. Remember: a retired racer got to grow up AS A DOG. He wasn't transported from his mother's side as a fuzzy 8 week old puppy and then expected to live in the house and behave and learn to be more like a person than a dog. I think of George as a giant cat, really. In fact my new vet's receptionist asked me on the phone before my initial appointment, "Is George a dog or a cat" and all I could do was laugh and say, "Neither! He's a Greyhound." They tend to have a "what's in it for me" approach to things (like obedience!). As with everything, there are exceptions, so don't anyone jump on me please! My experience with him (versus the prior 48 years of family dogs) is that he doesn't have the desire to please that our other dogs have had. That's in part a hound thing--but also I believe a working dog thing. The Greyhound's job is an independent one. And just an FYI--not all Greyhounds are lazy and/or laid back. Mine certainly isn't, although he does sleep if I'm not moving--after 3 years, he still jumps up and follows me from room to room (and I have an 875 sf condo, so it's not like he's in danger of loosing track of me!). I think it's a huge plus you own your house. That's some stability, and you won't have to worry about landlord issues! You do have to consider that your life is very likely to change when you graduate and (hopefully!) get a job. Your schedule isn't a problem. I'm so happy to see someone actually looking into this so carefully. Good for you!!

Vet! Poor sweet girl!

I'm so sorry--but how wonderful for her that you gave her a lovely happy home in her old age. Run free Quilty!

This really isn't news. Have you ever read the package insert for Frontline? I would NEVER use a supermarket product on my dog.

It seems to me that dogs often get less tolerant as they age, must like people. I would NOT take this dog to meet & greet events; why even risk it? Surely there are other dogs that can go to represent? Apparently he doesn't like this child. I would not let her near him again. Dogs do take a dislike to certain people just like we do. There must be something about her that annoys him. I'd also, as a rule, keep children away just because. In this litigious world in which we live, why would you set him up for potential failure, knowing as you do now that he CAN be snappish? I'm sure he's a GREAT dog. Just not worth the potential problems.

This is, IMHO, something you can train away. You have to recognize the pre-mark behavior and correct BEFORE the leg gets lifted! A simple leash correction with a "Don't even think about it!" in the VOG worked for George. I see far too many people who have no clue they don't have to let their dog pee wherever it wants, including nearly everyone in my condo complex. They make NO effort to take the dog where it's supposed to pee, as if they don't get that the dog CAN learn it's not OK to let one rip wherever. If you have already tried this and failed, then if it were my dog, he'd wear a belly band out in public. Before entering a store or home or whatever, I would remove the band, take him to a suitable place, give him a chance to "real pee," and then I'd strap that band on until he got the point. Peeing happens OUTSIDE ONLY, PERIOD. No exceptions.

Welcome! "Bonded pair" doesn't so much apply; most greyhounds love all other greyhounds. It's a "greyhound thing." As dogs who stay with their siblings 24/7 for (normally) more than a year, and dogs who are surrounded by others of their kind their entire lives (until retirement), they dig each other! As with anything, their are exceptions. If you go with TWO, you may eliminate some of the early issues that CAN arise with a hound separated for the first time from other hounds. You may not. Are you PHYSICALLY able to handle two dogs who will weigh anywhere from 50-85 pounds? At the same time? Knowing it could be they have not been trained to walked nicely on a leash? Been house broken? Ever seen a shiny floor, a mirror, or a TV? It's a lot to take on for someone unfamiliar with the ins and outs of houndie ownership! Find a good adoption group local to you, go visit more than once, let them get to know YOU, and ask their sage advice! Have fun and good luck!

I'd personally suggest you do a bit more research on greyhounds in general. I don't know anything about some of the techniques you're talking about, but there's a reason you don't see a lot of Greyhounds involved in activities beyond chasing stuff... I see the words "unleashed" and "controlled" and "greyhound," and they just don't compute!

George has a very strong sleep aggression reaction. I realize that I am taking a risk letting him sleep with me--a risk I am personally OK with being well over the age of consent! If your dog hasn't gotten over this by now, he probably won't. Your best bet when the child arrives is to have a child-proof area (a place for the dog to be when you're not supervising the kid). This can be a room blocked off with a gate. "Gently waking" a dog you know has sleep aggression should not involve TOUCHING the dog. Loud clapping, calling out his name, etc. are safe and effective.

My last dog spent 15 years vomiting often. I put him on Pepcid A/C at the vet's suggestion and it helped a LOT.

George took Baytril for 14 weeks and it didn't make him drink more. I would imagine that it's possible whatever the vet gave him the Baytril for might be causing his thirst?

I've had George for three years, and he has LSS, and he's still very muscular! One of the best things we can do for our hounds is keep them lean and muscular. The muscle tone helps with joint support, and being lean--well, that should be obvious! Those skinny legs aren't designed to carry extra weight. I keep him fit with long walks.

Of course they can!