turbotaina

Get a new sofa? On a serious note though, have you been able to get the sofa cleaned of the smell? At this point, he may be getting a chemical signal to keep using it, so you want to clean it very well. Also, Batmom's advise is spot on

Your other dog will catch on - you won't know until you try for a few days Remember, up until he came to live with you, your new guy was on a regimented schedule, he is probably a bit lost right now. Most greyhounds looooove routine. Treats - try human food: cheese cubes, chicken bits, etc. Some dogs take a bit of figuring out. I had a foster once that wouldn't take anything until she discovered beef jerky . Keep at it and you'll find his kryptonite. In the meantime, keep him close by and in your sight so you can get him out before any more accidents. Good luck!

I'm so sorry for your loss, Ducky. You gave him a wonderful home and I'm sorry he didn't come to you much sooner and stay much longer. :grouphug

As the human, you're responsible for setting the routine. Try to get him on an eating and walking and turnout schedule and stick to it. You may need to leash walk first thing, make sure he's emptied out (my dogs will *always* have more than one poo), then maybe feed, wait for 20-30 minutes, then do a turnout or short walk for urination. I'm not clear on if you're free-feeding, but if you are, you may want to stop that. Put food down, and he'll eat or he won't. After a few minutes, take it up, then set it back down at the next meal time. It should only take a couple of days for him to realize that "this is when I eat and if I miss the chance, I won't get to do it again for many hours!". Also, you say you caught him in the act of pooing in the house and scolded him, but what have you done when he does it right? You need to be outside with him when he poos, shower him with praise and treats. The idea is that eventually he will associate pooing outside with good things and will want to poo only outside. Note also - when you scold him when he poos, it may have the effect of turning him into a secret pooper - i.e., he'll be afraid to poo in front of you. Pay close attention to him, do not let him out of your sight and try to pick up on his body language before he has to poo - then get him outside and praise/treat him like crazy With my first dog it was, wake-up turn out, breakfast, wait one hour or so, take one hour walk, then another pee break before I'd leave for work. When I got home from work, it was pee break, dinner, one hour walk (when he was younger - as he got old, he didn't need the second walk any more, so it was either another turnout or a short walk), then a last pee break before bed. With my current dogs, it's wake up turnout (one usually won't go out because he wants breakfast first ), breakfast (often followed by turnout for the dog who wouldn't go out first thing ). I go to work, but hubby works from home and gives them a walk around sometime between 7 and 9 am. They will then usually sleep most of the day, get another turn out, then dinner, then games or walks in the evening, then a final turn out before settling down for the night. So find a routine that works for you both and do it. And by all means, leash walk leash walk leash walk, as much as possible. Good luck!

Jen wasn't disagreeing for the sake of disagreeing - you just didn't give great advice here, sorry. Even if a dog is only mildly fearful, it's best to take it slow and counter-condition and desensitize at a level the dog can cope with. What you described you did with Buck is basically "flooding" and it's just not a good method to use. If you use counter-conditioning and desensitization and the dog is only mildly fearful, then you can likely move forward much quicker, but if you flood, you run the risk of making the situation worse and having the dog either shut down or escalate fearful behaviors, making the training twice as difficult because the behavior is now worse. You were fortunate. Since none of us knows the OP or her dog, or the dog's level of fearfulness, Jen's (and Jey's) advice regarding not giving the dog more than it can handle makes sense. Start small, build up and take as much time as the dog needs.

Oh, Wendy :grouphug I'm so, so sorry.

Oh, Nancy, I'm so, so sorry. Lydia was such a sweet, sweet girl and I always loved her adorable white face. I was always rather hoping she'd never have to leave. I'm so sorry this happened so soon after Tess. You must be absolutely devastated. Sending you many hugs and warm thoughts from afar :grouphug

Yep, if you can't redirect the behavior when you're there, just keep your counters clear. If she's not rewarded for the behavior (finding good stuff on the counters), she should eventually lose interest. Otherwise, block of your kitchen if you can.

:grouphug

I'm so sorry for your loss. He was a beautiful boy

:grouphug

Beth :rotfl

I used Revolution before on my (now late) greyhound with no issues whatsoever. As you noted, it protects against *some* ticks, but not all, so if you live in a tick endemic area, you'd probably also want to use a tick collar, such as Preventic. I currently use Sentinel for heartworm and Frontline Plus for fleas/ticks (we never have a flea problem, but I've heard Frontline doesn't work as well on them as it used to).

It might be the protein source or something else in his food that's the issue, doesn't have to be grains

Oh, no. So sorry to hear this, Jamie. Big hugs to you and Meg.

Take it down a notch Also, train the behavior you want and ignore the behavior you don't. Maybe teach him to spin instead. In the meantime, when he jumps up, turn your back to him and ignore him until he settles.

Six is still pretty young - I have a six year old going on two Good luck today - hope you get some good news

I may have missed this somewhere, but how old is Murphy? I'd lean more towards a tendon strain or a possible hairline fracture than cancer if the dog is young. Not to say it can't happen, just not as likely. Sending you good thoughts.

Sending you guys good thought

It's funny - my first greyhound raced at 71, but looked best at about 78lbs. He was raced very thin. He was also barely 2, so he filled out some as he matured. He would occasionally pork up to 80-81 (when he would steal bagels), but we'd bring him back down so that his hip points were again visible (and that's what I mostly go by - Turbo was very ribby and even at his high weight, all his ribs were visible, but his hips were not). My two current guys are below their racing weight. Heyokha raced at 76 but he's now at 73 (he's recently recovered from a life-threatening surgery, but he only needs another pound or two - he doesn't look overly thin); Crow raced as high as 78, but he weighs between 69 and 71 now (depending on the scale) and looks perfectly healthy.

I'm so sorry

I'm so sorry, Brie. Mira was a beautiful girl

Or better yet, when you and your coworker have a disagreement, throw him down and lie on top of him so he knows who's in charge

Don't listen to your co-workers, first off The deal with growling is this: yes, it's the way a dog communicates, but it's up to you to counter-condition and desensitize so that his triggers aren't triggered in the future. In other words, you know what bothers him, so you need to train him so that it no longer bothers him and you don't need to make him growl in the future. He'll have been trained to enjoy or tolerate whatever it was that was pissing him off before. Make sense? Since the behavior is centered around times when he is being manhandled, you need to train him a "let's go" command so won't ever need to manhandle him Train him using something really, really tasty, so that when you call him over to you, he's greatly rewarded. In the meantime, put a leash on him instead of grabbing him by the collar, and give a cheerful "Let's go!" when you need him moved.

Sounds like she's leaking urine. I'd get a vet check.