3greytjoys

Biddie's general temperament seems extremely happy and loving. One of our hounds is much like Biddie. She crawls in our laps to give us kisses and dearly loves attention, we just let it be on her time limit. My comment was simply a caution that any dog can feel a limit. Most Greyhounds simply retreat to their bed when they want rest time. Many young dogs are playfully mouthy. A 4 year old Greyhound who didn't race much is still very much a big puppy in terms of behavior. Is it possible Biddie's reaction to your husband was her exuberant delightful excitement to round the corner and see him, and that simply drew a little blood? You mentioned she was trained not to jump on people any more, but maybe she was so happy to see your husband that she temporarily forgot her training(?). Have you ever seen truly aggressive dog bite behavior? If you can't afford Robin's trainer or other professional help now, I would suggest asking one of the Greyhound professionals from your adoption group to visit Biddie in your home to evaluate her behavior. I agree with Batmom about most of this possibly being playfully exuberant behavior. One of our senior hounds gives us love nibbles, sometimes a little harder than we'd like, but it is not aggression, just his way of showing us affection. I wouldn't be too concerned about her normal prey drive. She is a retired racing sighthound (even if she dropped out of racing school or didn't race professionally very long). Helps to know that it's "game on" for any outside cat from a Greyhound's perspective.

Here are two excellent links by the late Sophia Yin, Veterinary Animal Behaviorist http://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/help-my-dog-bites-how-to-deal-with-dogs-who-bite http://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/dog-bite-prevention-dogs-bite-when-humans-greet-inappropriately

Glad you won't be taking Biddie back to the nursing home. It's too serious a risk for the patients, your liability, and Biddie's life. If you don't have a fenced yard, the fenced exercise could be good for her; I wonder if you might be able to let her to run in that fenced facility when other dogs are not present. Generally, we keep physical petting contact somewhat brief for all of our Greyhounds. (ETA: Meaning we give them plenty of affection for a couple of minutes (their time choice) whenever they are standing up and approach us ready for attention, but we don't disturb them on their beds for excessive petting. We let resting dogs lie undisturbed. Their beds are considered their undisturbed "doggie safe zone". Same reason we don't trim nails or brush teeth while they are lying on their beds. When dogs know they can feel completely safe on their own bed, it helps them develop a more trusting foundation with humans.) They weren't reared in family homes and are not used to being excessively showered with attention. They were left undisturbed inside their racing kennel crates to rest and eat meals They are accustomed to having their own personal space and resources. Most weren't used to being around children. (It usually just takes time and positive experiences for them to understand and adjust to their new family life. ) Any dogs can feel threatened by direct eye contact, or reaching overhead for petting, etc. Safer to approach from the side and pet their shoulder so they don't feel cornered/trapped from the front. Below are some important warning signals that dogs often show as their discomfort to stimuli increases. If you see any of these canine body language behaviors, please ensure petting or whatever is causing the dog to feel discomfort ceases immediately. Any person should calmly back away from the dog. (This quick list is off the top of my head so isn't complete.) - Yawning (early sign of discomfort when dog is not tired) - Quick lip lick (early sign of discomfort) - Turns head away from person (early sign of discomfort) - Dog may watch with peripheral vision if dog appears to be looking away with head turned. - Whale eye (you may see the whites of the dog's eye) - Lips: a dog about to bite often forms a "C" at the mouth's inner corners with forward, tense lips and muzzle with whiskers forward. - Frozen/hardened eye stare with dialated pupils. - Brief tense body freeze (just before launching forward to bite). - Body's center of gravity in a forward position (potentially preparing for action). There are additional threads that you might explore in GreyTalk's Training and Behavior section. I'll add more links in this thread as time permits, and others likely will too. Your careful management of Biddie is most important, and please don't take any chances around your young grandchildren. Again, Biddie should be safely muzzled and behind a baby-gate when children or visitors are in your home. (Speaking from experience with other breeds.) This article is an excellent revealing window about racing Greyhounds' kennel life: http://www.northerng...ghtsOfAGrey.php (Article by the late Kathleen Gilley)

Please do keep Biddie muzzled when walking in public or when others (especially children) are visiting your home. A Greyhound turnout muzzle is safest for the dog since it allows the dog to pant and drink water. Biddie should have her own protected resting space in the house when visitors are at your home: e.g., behind a baby-gate in an adjoining room so she can see and feel as part of the family but her space is not physically disturbed. Please understand that if a bite is reported by anyone to Animal Control that Biddie's life could be at stake. I strongly urge you to read the Lexus Project's site: http://thelexusproject.org/ ETA: Biddie may have more of a competitive and vocal play style; however, considering her recent history, she should not be involved in Greyhound play groups unless ALL the Greyhounds are muzzled. It's not safe to muzzle only one dog in a group of dogs (any breeds) because if your dog gets attacked she can't defend herself from other dogs. If only one dog is muzzled, the other dogs consider the only muzzled dog a weaker underdog. Weak or sick animals are often targeted to attack, whether in the wild or dog park settings. Also, if a fight breaks out in a multi-dog setting, it often becomes an all dogs pack fight within seconds. Aggression in dogs is often rooted from fear. Biddie's escalating behavior is likely not her fault, but more likely learned reactive behavior to dominance based training. Similar to humans, anger begets anger; however dogs can't discuss their strong feelings of discomfort, distrust, and/or fear with words. Dominance training often leaves dogs no choice to express their serious discomfort other than using their only self-protection -- their teeth. As mentioned, this behavior would be better handled by an appropriately licensed (positive, reward-based) veterinary behaviorist. Biddie and your family would need to start over from square one to allow Biddie to slowly learn to trust humans (without overstepping reasonable and respectful natural canine boundaries). Otherwise, if returned to her adoption group, a Greyhound experienced single person or adult only home may help her learn to trust very slowly and without her feeling overstimulated.

Yes, this is the sad result of alpha/dominance training. It's been proven for many decades that dominance increases aggression in dogs. It teaches dogs to DIStrust people and become dangerously hyper-reactive. Owners learning canine calming signals (dog's early warnings) is essential; however, your dog likely already learned to skip early warning signs to avoid punishment. Please, please contact a professional from these two reputable links for assistance: http://avsabonline.org/resources/find-consult http://www.dacvb.org/resources/for-the-public/

Thousands of dogs have died from choking to death or hanging themselves when tethered. (A tethered dog was hit by a car after panicking and pulling a picnic table behind him into a road.) Tethering is even more dangerous for retired racing Greyhounds since they can accelerate to racing speed within 3-4 strides. Reaching up to 45 mph from a stand still is extremely dangerous even if their leash is attached to a harness. There is a "no tethering" clause in many adoption agreements for these reasons. It's extremely important be aware of expected high temperatures. Greyhounds overheat much more easily than other breeds. Keep water available at all times. Map the location and phone # of the closest emergency vet before the trip. Some Greyhounds tolerate camping better than others. If dogs can't be responsibly cared for at all times during camping trips, it's better to leave them home with a dog sitter. ETA: A hands-free waist leash helps to allow the human's hands/arms more freedom; however, humans still need to remain highly alert to their dog's behavior and dog's interest in long distance sightings to avoid being pulled down unexpectedly by the hound. It's safest to keep both hands on leash to properly control the dog.

This can happen any time, even after animals have been living together for years. It's always best to provide a separate safe space so cats can feel comfortable being cats. Greyhounds should not be allowed to chase cats; otherwise, prey drive and/or dangerous play can escalate too easily. Even muzzled Greyhounds can harm or kill a cat by pouncing on them during a chase (or biting through a muzzle). As mentioned above, a secure baby-gate installed 5" or 6" above floor level helps provide a safe escape route for a cat. Cat's food, water, litterbox, primary resting bed, and cat zoomie area should be separate from the dog's main living spaces. Even when supervised, cats should have multiple safe escape spaces, in addition to a baby-gate, helps to pull a sofa or other large furniture several inches away from walls to provide extra protective spaces for cats, possibly an open closet with very high shelves, etc.. Greyhounds are faster than cats and humans. I'm so glad your cat survived. Remain watchful of Brewski to ensure his little neck wasn't harmed. Thank you for posting, it could help others too. I'll be interested in reading your response to Greyt_dog_lover's questions too.

Whenever our hounds have suddenly hesitated to walk up or down stairs, it's been the result of medical pain or vision problems. Otherwise, it's been due to an unfamiliar uncarpeted or steep staircase elsewhere. Good luck.

OP quote: "Take him out to his spot, then if he doesn't produce in like 5 minutes take him back in without saying anything and try out again later?" End quote. Yes, and turn your body and face away from him. Best to practice this when you know he has to urinate, and when you will be home to repeat it as needed (e.g., once per hour until he urinates). Immediately after he finishes urinating, have a happy praise party! Sometimes helps to very securely link two leashes together to give new hounds a feeling of greater potty privacy. Pre-scented doggie pee posts are available in many pet stores (if you lack enough storage for a large cone). If needed, you could do a stream catch of Jack's urine with a large (soup) ladel to pour on a cone, or ask another male dog owner to stop by the cone with their dog. Seems there are plenty of ground surfaces for Jack to select his favorite, but it may be helpful to check his paw pads for debris or sores (which might be painful on certain surfaces). Greyhounds are especially sensitive to sunny/hot surfaces.

Agree with all posters above, especially this quoted post. Yes, helpful to keep a watchful eye open for a UTI (just in case). Another suggestion is to feed a small snack at bedtime. (Okay to reduce kibble dinner intake by a small amount to offer at bedtime.) We give 1/4 to 1/3 cup of slightly moistened kibble at bedtime just to keep something in their tummies until breakfast. This helps reduce pre-dawn awakenings due to hunger, and reduces bile build-up.

There are many Greyhounds who have trouble sitting simply because their bodies are not built for sitting like other dogs. Some Greyhounds may have previous racing injuries, so I would not even teach those younger hounds to sit. All of our current hounds do know how to sit; however, we would not ask them to sit outside during walks or on hard surfaces indoors because it's too difficult for them to control their legs. (They often have better control on thick carpeting.) Some hounds rear ends shake during a straight sit and should not be expected to stay in that position for more than a few seconds, if that. We stop asking our hounds to sit as they begin to age as they appear to have more difficulty, whether from arthritis or natural aging. Our Greyhounds are praised for stopping while standing at intersections, or for turning right/left, etc. Good for you for noticing that Snow started having some difficulty, and you had her vet checked. Hopefully it's nothing more serious than her self-regulating her comfort level as she ages.

I understand the feelings of wanting another dog to share the love you have overflowing in your heart. Although our first Greyhound was always excited to go for walks, hikes, car rides, vacation travels with us, etc., while at home he was so wonderfully calm, quiet, confident and independent we almost forgot he was in the room with us. Since we had the financial means, extra time, and excessive love, we adopted another Greyhound. I'll share some thoughts after living, working, and training many different breeds of dogs over many decades (including puppies): If I recall correctly, you have grandchildren. Please keep family safety in mind when you decide on any dog. Some breeds are much more tolerant of children than other breeds. Each dog is an individual, but be aware that some small-mouthed breeds can be intolerantly fierce biters of children. Carefully research the breed or mix of breeds before adopting any dog. Many traits are genetic (energy demands, temperament, medical issues, etc.). Understand the working purpose of the breed/s; e.g., some dogs are bred to work on ranches 12+ hours a day with non-stop endurance. Some guard dog breeds may not have a sound temperament to be safe around young children. Some small hunting breeds may dig non-stop in search of underground vermin; other endurance hunters may need excessive exercise to lead a happy life in a home. Adopt from a reliable source close to your home so the dog or puppy is likely to have had a neutral professional evaluator of his/her disposition, and will provide back-up support for that animal. A puppy is more of an unknown risk than a mature dog, and is likely to require an unexpectedly high level of your energy, but if reared properly and trained with positive reward-based methods, a puppy can eventually become a great addition to a family. Also keep in mind that any dog can develop SA, especially when the dog is reared with humans at home nearly 24/7. As a new big sister, Ruby's presence could help another dog feel more comfortable during your departures or could backfire by inadvertently teaching the new dog to enter anxiety mode. Our severe SA hound is surrounded by 3 other hounds (and has never lived without other Greyhounds). They do nothing to calm her anxiety when her targeted human/s leave the house. Keep in mind that Ruby has had years to develop her strong attachment to you, so another dog may or may not help her. I echo others' suggestion to foster or pet sit other dogs first to evaluate Ruby's comfort level. A brief one day visit really isn't enough time to test Ruby's longer term tolerance to sharing her space, toys, feeding routine, favorite humans, etc. There are many great aspects about having two dogs for those who have the long-term commitment for the duration of both dogs' lives, the financial means, extra time, and a happy loving home. Good luck, and please let us know whatever you decide.

Excellent posts above. I agree to take several steps back and limit Joey's potty outings to your own yard. Much later, after Joey feels much more confident with his own family, home, and yard, he may become more willing to take tiny baby steps to venture out for neighborhood walks, etc. Patience, quiet, and allowing him to adjust in his own home in his own time is most important. Another harness that many Greyhound people like is this "Greyhound spook harness": http://www.majesticcollars.com/harness.htm When it's important for him to do something, try to encourage his natural movements and behavior. Example: Toss high value meat treats (from afar) on the floor to help encourage him to stand up, and then to walk to the door to eliminate outside. Reward for any/all good behavior. Hopefully Joey can go out in his own yard for a last potty elimination immediately before humans lie down to sleep. (A belly band might help keep his urine contained during overnights; however, the strange feeling of the band might make him feel more anxious.) Ensuring he has enough opportunities to eliminate is the most important key. Dogs adjusting to a new environment often need to eliminate much more frequently than usual. Reward for his outside eliminations. Please do not reprimand him for any accidents inside. If you don't already have runner rugs with rug gripper mats underneath, please seriously consider adding them. In a pinch, rubber-backed bath mats can help hounds feel more comfortable walking on hard surface floors at home. Even one scary slip on the floor can set any hound back, particularly a fearful hound. Assuming your yard is fully fenced, please take extra precautions to ensure your gate is kept locked (a carabiner is better than no lock), and ensure there is no furniture, garbage cans, wood piles, etc. near the fence which could act as a platform for Joey to jump on and over the fence (if be becomes frightened by an unexpected noise, etc.). A strip of reflective tape across the inside of a gate helps humans ensure a gate is closed from a visual glance. Since your latest reply mentioned your trip: if possible, ask your daughter's family to ensure Joey is always behind a baby-gate whenever doors leading out to a non-fenced area are being used. Also, an ex-pen can be placed in a U-shape around the most used house door leading to a non-fenced area (and/or fence gate). This acts as a secondary safety catch pen to prevent an accidental Greyhound escape. If Joey is already social with you and your husband, I'd guess he is shy but maybe not a full spook. A true spook might hide in a far room of the house too scared to willingly venture anywhere near a human for weeks or months. If interested, here is another thread re: shyness: http://forum.greytalk.com/index.php/topic/295772-helping-a-grey-overcome-shyness/?hl=%2Bovercome+%2Bshyness

Glad you noticed it. Hard to see from the photo if it has spread. Please let us know how your appointment goes.

This article is a revealing window into racing Greyhounds' kennel life. It helps new adopters understand their Greyhound's background and more about their behavior. Article by the late Kathleen Gilley http://www.northerngreyhoundadoptions.org/ThoughtsOfAGrey.php

He may feel over-stimulated in his new world. He's trying to communicate in dog language that he is very uncomfortable in those situations. Please do respect his communication by backing away and giving him his space immediately. Important: Please do not reprimand a dog for growling. If they're scolded for their "caution" growl, the next time they may skip the growl and go directly to a nip/bite. Dogs need to be able to communicate their strong feelings of discomfort some way, so better a caution growl than a bite. There are many reasons dogs growl: fear, invasion of space or resources, etc. A veterinary visit could reveal whether a dog is in physical pain from a previous injury. Some dogs are just sensitive to being touched on certain areas like ears or spine, etc. Newly retired racers are not used to having as much attention as many of us like to show new pets, nor are they used to sharing space or resources. Greyhounds need time to adjust to a whole new world. Humans need to earn the dog's trust. This takes a variable about of time; could take months, a year or more. After you earn your new hound's full trust, he will be more accepting of your attention and handling him for flea treatments, etc. Some general rules for families of newly adopted dogs: - Let resting dogs lie undisturbed. Do not approach a dog while he is on his dog bed. That should be considered his own private safety zone. It doesn't matter if he's sleeping or awake. (BTW, many Greyhounds sleep with their eyes open.) It's okay to toss a treat to him from afar while he is on his bed, but please respect his space. Greyhounds are not used to intruders in their resting zone. - Wait for the dog to stand up, and approach a human before offering him attention. At the very least, wait until he's standing up and well away from his bed before petting him. - Do not lean over a dog, petting his head or body from above. Reaching an arm over the top of a dog's head is threatening behavior in dog language, as is a direct frontal approach from humans (or dogs). Better for a person to approach the (standing) dog from the side, and pet the dog's shoulder (same side, not leaning over the dog), but only if the dog would enjoy the attention. Otherwise, the dog shoudn't be forced into situations that make him feel too uncomfortable or fearful. Some dogs are fearful of strangers: it may be unnoticed outwardly, but the dog may feel fear internally. Baby steps may be required for some dogs. Its most important for the dog to feel safe and comfortable with his own family and home environment first. After the family has earned the dog's trust, then slowly expand to public situations while staying below the dog's comfort threshold. - If visitors are invited into a new dog owner's home, they should be educated to allow the dog his own space until the dog is ready to stand and approach the human visitor for attention. If young children are visiting, the children should be supervised at ALL times. The dog should be in a safe place like his crate or behind a baby-gate. Young children should never be left in a room unsupervised with any dog, nor should they be allowed to get too close to a dog's face. Babies in carriers should not be placed on floor level. - Polite dog-to-dog meetings involve arcing around from the side for a brief introduction (not head-on, face-to-face). Then move along. Remember that racing Greyhounds are reared only with other Greyhounds. Other breeds often look and act like aliens from a newly retired Greyhound's perspective. Of course, be extra cautious around smaller animals or avoid them completely. Set him up for success by ensuring your interactions with him are respectful, happy, positive, and reward-based. (Please do not dominate a dog, it's decades long proven to cause serious aggression in many, many dogs.) Please let us know how things go.

My thought: A stress factor is possible, even if indirectly related to the dropped grocery incident. As others mentioned, his body may have already been weakened from exercise in elevated temperatures, and/or tweaked something during the reactive moment, etc. (His prior life circumstances may have pre-programmed him to react in a certain way.) One of our senior Greyhounds stressed to the point of near full body collapse during a difficult (for him) vet visit. His high stress episode was combined with and worsened by his laryngeal paralysis (and LP's related nerve damage often extends into hind-end weakness). Our two LP hounds share Desi's (post above) difficulty walking in warm temperatures, and freight train panting. None of our younger hounds have ever tolerated walking in temperatures above 70-72 degrees F, either. Our entire hound pack is sensitive. We've taught ourselves to react with a (happy?! "oopsie" whenever we drop something that makes a loud noise. It helps keep the hounds resting more calmly, so they don't panic thinking the house falling down. I'm glad Max appears to have recovered quickly, no worse for the wear. Thank you for adopting a special senior boy.

Welcome to GreyTalk. The high end dose of Prozac (just increased in April) might not have had enough time to build in his system. I'd give it a little more time. (Prozac worked well for our SA hound while she was being medicated.) If your vet decides to try Xanax as a short-term medication, initially please administer it when you are able to stay home to supervise Moonie. (Xanax has the potential to have the opposite of the desired effect on some hounds.) Several reasons Moonie could be struggling to hold his urine/bowel: - Hookworms can make bowel control very difficult. - Marrow often causes loose stools (difficult to control bowel). (BTW, Kongs are okay to leave with hounds, but bones should not be left with unsupervised dogs. Bones can get stuck in mouth, splinter, etc. Many SA dogs are not interested in treats when stressed/left alone. Medications can affect their appetite too.) - Separation anxiety is fear-based. When dogs (or people) are feeling extremely anxious, they often need to eliminate much more frequently than when they're feeling calm/relaxed, and perfectly healthy (no worms, etc.). Moonie is likely holding it overnight because he can finally relax knowing that you aren't leaving the house while you're sleeping. Our SA hound needs at least 3 morning outings before human's departure: upon awakening, after breakfast/before human shower, and within 5-10 minutes of departure. Anxious dogs can almost always eliminate, at least urinate when given the opportunity, particularly when already stressed while watching humans' pre-departure signals. If in another new environment all day (workplace) standing, panting, watching their human in action while hound is fearful of being left behind, a hound could need outings every 1 or 2 hours. To answer your question. Anxious dog standing, panting all day in your workplace doesn't surprise me, nor does the urgent need to eliminate on his bed when he wasn't able to communicate any other way. Our severe SA hound (11 years old) lives with multiple Greyhounds. They help her feel a little more canine confidence; however, they do not help eliminate her laser focus attachment to her targeted human. Long walks help tire her; however, excessive exercise does not eliminate the stress/anxiety functioning signals within her brain. It's clear that you've been doing as much as you can to help Moonie. I understand the barking issue with your housemates/neighbors. I assume you already tried placing a "Bark Off" ultrasonic unit near him. I am extremely concerned about a correction collar on any Greyhound (emotionally sensitive breed, lack of neck/body fat or fur, etc.), especially a hound who is already struggling with separation anxiety. SA hounds are sensitive to the extreme. Research has shown that SA dogs (any breed) can be so sensitive that raised voices of displeasure are enough to set them back tenfold plus, magnifying their fear/anxiety behavior for a long, long time, and potentially creating new problems. Hopefully the temporary medication will begin to help relax Moonie enough for him to feel more receptive to learning. If he continues to regress, I agree with others that your adoption group may be able to provide you a more appropriate dog for your life situation. Moonie may live more comfortably with people who are home all day. Good luck. ETA: If needed, links below provide reputable professional animal behaviorists. Positive, reward-based training methods are recommended (supported by science). Please beware of outdated negative, punishment-based methods found on the Internet/TV. www.certifiedanimalbehaviorist.com http://www.dacvb.org/resources/for-the-public/

Assuming all 3 fosters were previously spayed/neutered, they should be okay while safely separated from each other within the same room (similar to kennel life). Agree with 4my2greys about looking for another foster home, at the very least for Seamus, if possible. Just my experience with lots of multiples is that people can't be too careful on many levels: the safety of all the dogs, yourselves, and especially your children. Multiple new dogs around food is the most important time to keep each dog very safely separated. This includes during kibble prep. time. Great to feed fosters inside closed door crates. Have a plan ready if a heightened spat occurs (animals often stand up on hind legs): flat collars on dogs; a chair-back or large kitchen cutting board can be placed between dogs' faces to help separate them. If outside, a strong spray of hose water might help. (As a child, I saw the worst happen between two dogs. Each dog had a high value bone, but one dog wanted both bones. The loser lost his life.) Since Greys can become very competitive and/or mouthy during running play, I would limit outside yard play to one dog at a time. If two dogs, properly fitted turn-out muzzles are a must. Otherwise, a muzzled dog can't defend him/herself if attacked by a non-muzzled dog. (Side note: Our group discourages children from being sole handler of Greyhounds until the children are adult size and weight to safely control fast and strong retired racers.) Agree with Greysmom re: crate training. Ensure all good things happen in their crates: happily feed meals/treats in closed door crate; soon thereafter (within 10 minutes), take hounds outside for potty break. (We watch every hound do business, and record the time plus hounds' eliminations - soft/firm, etc.) Throughout the day (after hounds have eliminated), quietly close crate doors (with hounds inside crate) for brief rest periods while people are home so hounds associate their crate as their happy, safe place to relax. Start with 10 minutes in crate, then quietly walk by opening the crate door. If you're lucky, they'll continue resting in crate. Avoid any fanfare when opening the crate. Very gradually extend closed crate time to an hour or two while humans are still home. This way dogs are less inclined to become too anxious while crated during humans' actual house absences. BTW, we remove collars from dogs while they are inside a locked crate due to risk of strangulation from collar and/or tags becoming caught on the crate. Otherwise, they wear flat I.D. collars at all times. Our martingales are used for leashed walks only. Congratulations on your adoption of Merlin! He's a hansdome boy. All are beautiful hounds.

Good girl Pudge for visiting your mom in spirit at this time. You'll always be remembered.

Sadness and grief feel so overwhelming... Opal was a beautiful girl. I hope your happier memories of her will provide a bit more comfort eventually. Opal, your mom loves and misses you so much. Warm her heart with your loving spirit from over the bridge...

A couple of our hounds have had some redness (and itching) at times, but theirs have not resulted in a long-lasting condition. I know pannus hounds whose conditions have been controlled very well with eye drops. Good to photograph it now and watch for changes. Alert your vet if it begins to spread. IF it's pannus, and it spreads towards the cornea, it can obstruct vision if not treated soon enough.

I had a highly food allergic dog many years ago (different breed who had severe IBD). She was limited to vet prescribed unique protein foods like venison, etc. The great news is there are many more simple ingredient foods available in the general pet food market now for very reasonable prices. I'm guessing your vet may be doing a special elimination diet first, and will then try to isolate a specific ingredient sensitivity. Hopefully, you'll soon be able to transition to a more affordable simple ingredient food available in pet stores. Whole Dog Journal publishes an excellent extensive kibble brand review annually each February. You may be able to request this past Feb. as a single copy (vs. full year subscription). I assume you've already tried washing your hound with a sensitive skin pet shampoo, and dog beds with a mild soap, rinsing thoroughly (2-3 times), etc. Posting a photo might help too.

Congratulations on your new family member! He may be frightened of the exit height, or he may have more medical discomfort than he's shown. Males' racing crates are on ground level so it sometimes takes them a little more practice learning to jump during retirement. A few separate options come to mind: - Try parking your SUV's back end very close to a soft grassy berm/embankment or driveway incline so your hound has a shorter jump to exit from the back during practice sessions. Reward him immediately upon exiting with a delicious bite of a dog treat, small piece of meat, or pieces of his kibble (if he's kibble motivated). Keep practice sessions happy and fun for him. - Drop a large, thick piece of dense foam or dog bed on the driveway/garage so he has a softer landing platform. (Hold foam mat/bed in place with your foot so it doesn't go flying out from under him.) - Buy a dog ramp made for SUVs, or buy (or build) very secure steps (with closed risers) for him. - I'm assuming he's too heavy for you to pick him up to place him gently on the ground. If you try it, please ensure he is muzzled before doing so. Some hounds are fine being lifted by humans, others are not accustomed to or comfortable with it. (Not sure if a side door exit would be a lower jump, or more difficult for him to manuever.) I'm sure others will chime in also. Good luck.

I agree to feed more frequently. Our hounds eat 3 (to 4) times per day. If we miss their bedtime kibble snack (1/4 to 1/3 cup of kibble), some hounds vomit yellow bile before breakfast. Btw, caloric content of kibble differs between brands: a 300 calorie per cup kibble requires greater daily quantity than a 500 calorie per cup kibble. An easy guideline for healthy "pet" Greyhound weight is being able to see the last 2 ribs, plus hip bones. Another possibility (besides excitement of loving family life ): Your hounds might be trying to communicate that they desperately need to go outside to potty. (Most newly retired hounds don't know how to show potty signals because they've never had to "ask" to be let outside.) Pacing, sniffing the floor or approaching their people are signs. Track hounds are usually on a schedule to eliminate every 4 hours with a minimum of 4 outings spread evenly through the day and evening (16 hours awake time). Not sure if you live in their racing time zone but time zone changes are another adjustment. Hopefully extra kibble snacks will work for them. If possible, try to avoid using a spray bottle which could create new challenges. Good luck, and enjoy your new family members.