Zachary

This is an excellent article on dealing with this topic. I have been using the method to help with my dog, who experienced the same thing, and it does work -- it just takes time and patience. Good luck, their fear is heartbreaking. https://www.rover.com/blog/my-dog-is-afraid-of-other-dogs-what-should-i-do/

There are a number of training techniques you can use to help with prey drive. Positive interrupters are an ideal method to curtail most unwanted behaviors in a positive manner. Obviously avoidance is the ideal method to deal with prey drive, fear, or aggressive situations but that is not always possible. Squirrels happen! Situational awareness is key and that is where distraction can help. Be it changing sides of the street, blocking the dogs view of the “offending” stimuli (parked cars are great for this), a game of “touch” or a quick change of direction all can help manage unwanted behavior. These training techniques are easy to learn, but require dedication and consistency. Training is a life-long commitment, but not a particularly time-consuming one. Three to five minutes several times a day to begin and then less as time goes on. Treats are a great motivator. Jackpot treating for a session well done is never a bad thing! With Me Training is demonstrated in these videos. With me also works brilliantly for dogs that pull. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hac_ixNHri https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCOHMX4qjVQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-szHo91oGg Leave It Training. This trainer is combining leave it and with me to great advantage. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pgtnmpwU5c Touch Training is demonstrated in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96vEgrsmIy8

Walkee Paws At first glance they seem quite practical. http://www.walkeepaws.com/about/

Interesting article from Animal Wellness Magazine suggesting the potential healing benefits of adaptogenic herbs for canine stressors, both emotional and physical , including chronic illnesses. http://animalwellnessmagazine.com/herbs-for-stress/

I don't know if this would be available for dogs, but a condom catheter could help. If Jake is showing signs of irritation from laying in the urine, you might want to use a barrier cream or diaper cream to ease the irritation. Hugs to everyone. Hope Jake is feeling less grouchy and groggy and more his own self today.

Wishing Jake and his humans an easy, uneventful and fast recovery. This link is to a very interesting article on adaptogenic herbs that have myriad benefits for dogs under stress for varying conditions; injury and healing, old age, and, remarkably, cancer. http://animalwellnessmagazine.com/herbs-for-stress/ I can speak to the effectiveness and safety of rhodiola in humans.

I am so very sorry. Sweet Percy deserves so much better than this. Damn this disease.

What has worked for Gilly is me being very aware of any other dogs in the area and alerting him to their presence before he can get worked up. We will cross the street or change directions to keep a comfortable distance between the dogs. In a very cheery voice I also assure him everything is fine and all is good. I sometimes point out something about the other dog: i.e. ‘oh look at the cute coat that puppy is wearing’ or something equally silly. When he doesn’t react I generally say ‘easy peasy, slice of (insert changing names of) cheesie!). I also treat and praise him liberally for not reacting. Gilly has gone from a whirling, barking, lunging dervish at the mere sight of one dog to being able to tolerate multiple sightings in a long walk. I try to keep the leash loose and not telegraph my concerns to him — the keeping my feelings to myself was the hardest. The more relaxed he is the more relaxed I am and vice versa, so it becomes a win-win situation. Also try not to let your pup stare for more than 3 seconds. It gives the dog a chance to see what is up but not the plan world domination! Look at me or touch are good distractions, or even placing yourself to block the sight line. As a friend of mine who is a trainer says “patience, praise, and practice”.

Ducky, So sorry Percy is going through such a frightening health issue. I understand why you are concerned about the use of anesthetic and especially bleeding. Have you ever heard of Domitor? It is a reversible sedation that might be useful in this situation. http://www.petplace.com/article/drug-library/library/prescription/medetomidine-domitor This is a two injection medication. The first injection sedates the dog and the second will bring them around. There are precautions regarding protecting the dogs eyes because they remain open while the dog is under. Also it is suggested the treatment room be kept very quiet to keep the animal calm as well. Hugs to you and Percy.

The rawhide bone would be considered a very high-value treat by any self-respecting dog. She was guarding something very special, something different from her everyday food. She can be fine with your hand by her everyday food bowl because that is no big deal, that comes every day. More than likely she will relax once she realizes she can trust you and hopefully receives these great treats on a regular basis. Give the adorable Maisie time, you have only had her for a month, she is learning the ways of the world. There is information on 'trading up' in case you ever do have to take something away from her. Essentially it is offering something even more enticing to the dog to trade for what you want or need to get away from him or her. My first Greyhound reacted the same way when I gave him a meaty bone -- only he growled when I merely walked by the room he was in! He quickly learned that good things weren't a one time only deal and after receiving several high-value treats he relaxed. Welcome to the wonderful world of Greyhounds.

Ducky, Please add Fox, a beautiful and very much loved 12-year-old Blue Heeler who received her wings February 7, 2016. Thank you.

When Gilly was finally diagnosed with hookworms the instructions were treat for three days and off for two weeks. We repeated this regimen for four cycles. You probably know this, but worth repeating. Try not to let the feces hit the ground as it can become infected rapidly. Try to catch the poop mid air. Good luck!

Gilly had the same problem, but he managed to hoard ten pieces of sand and gravel in his paw! He took about six weeks to heal but the wound was very deep -- almost to the bone. Our vet explained that it would take time to heal because the wound heals from the inside to the outside. I kept his foot bandaged and booted for probably four to five weeks. Thought he was all healed but, like your pup, he managed to get one more piece of material in the same wound. Fortunately the vet was able to scrape this piece out easily, unlike the six x-ray and two hour surgery from the previous collection.

My pup Gilly was going through similar episodes for almost a year despite being tested for worms. Gilly has always been fed a raw diet, but I changed suppliers with no improvement; I then changed from a mix of beef and chicken to straight chicken for a couple of weeks -- no joy; changed to a couple of weeks of straight beef, again no joy. And then, cue the heavenly music, I came across this thread: http://forum.greytalk.com/index.php/topic/313341-larval-leak-syndrome-hookworms/ and after specialized OPP testing, and 8 weeks of treatment with Panacur and retesting for hookworms problem solved. This syndrome is also known as larval migrans. Best of luck to you and your pup, this is so very frustrating. Also, just in case Wasabi does have worms, catching his stool in a bag before it hits the ground is recommended. Think baseball catcher stance!

Very good information in this thread regarding hook worms, treatment, and why they sometimes come back after treatment. http://forum.greytalk.com/index.php/topic/313341-larval-leak-syndrome-hookworms/ This is also known as larval migrans. You may want to use a baseball catcher's stance and catch his stool in a bag before it hits the ground. Hooks spread very easily to other dogs. Good luck, they are so frustrating to treat.