GeorgeofNE

You need to train your CHILDREN to keep their things in their rooms with the door shut, if it's an issue (my dog doesn't have any interest in toys of any kind--not all dogs do) and STAY AWAY FROM THE DOG when it's laying down. My former dog, a mutt, knew perfectly well things that were his vs. things that were mine (I had a small collection of bears at one point). That really depends on the dog, but it's a perfectly wonderful time to teach your kids to clean up their stuff unless they want to risk the dog getting it. Yes, you can work on the sleep startle, but not with "live bait"! Not all Greyhounds have that problem. Hopefully you are working with a group that will only recommend to you a relatively "bomb proof" dog since it sounds like you have young children and not a lot of dog experience.

That's not normal. Might be a good idea to take him in for a quick checkup. He could have an anal gland problem or something. Is his poop formed well? Easy to pick up? What are you feeding him?

It's also possible he got something really caustic on his feet. Or it could be another type of allergy--to carpet shampoo for example. Everyone jumps to food allergies! Dogs, like people, can be allergic to anything! I would not wait for my "preferred vet" if there is another vet who can see you sooner. He must be pretty uncomfortable.

We have had dogs my entire 51 years, and of all of them, only two were female. Our males NEVER marked (and they were NOT neutered). If you get a male greyhound, it will be neutered, and with only one dog, the inclination to mark is greatly reduced. You TRAIN a dog not to mark in the house by stopping him before he does it. Once it becomes a habit like your neighbor's dogs, it is rather hard to stop. But she's wrong--it is NOT the norm. And female animals of most species also mark--they just do it in a different position!

I wouldn't bother with the treat dispensing toy in the crate. The fun of that is being able to roll it around and such, and she really can't do that in the crate. It sounds like she's doing very well! It might sound counter intuitive, but I think you might actually need a slightly more rigid AM schedule, and I would shift the longest walk to AFTER she eats. Piddle break first thing--then you feed her, do your thing, etc., and THEN take her for the longer walk. One more quicky right before you leave (since you can--I do not do this myself) and off you go! Sounds like all in all she's doing really well.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who picked up on the "it's raining, we can't walk" comment. I don't have a yard for my dog--and I'm on year 17 of daily walks NO MATTER WHAT here in New England. Rain, snow, ice--you can't tell the dog, "Sorry dude, the weather stinks." While I admit that if there is ice on the ground, I cut the walk short (too dangerous), my discomfort is never an excuse not to take care of my dog's exercise need. George had SEVERE SA when he was first adopted. That's when I started getting up an hour earlier than I "need" to to walk him longer. I've had him for five years now, and we still do it because he enjoys it. He's alone all day--I figure it's the least I can do for him.

I think you nailed it. The longer I walk George, the more he poops. The poops get progressively more liquid.

Lila is probably right: another chubacabra fang strikes the WFUBCC

My vet told me prostate cancer is pretty unusual in a neutered dog. There are SO many other things this could be--I don't know what made you think prostate cancer.

That's actually a really good way to teach a dog to hold it. A dog who enjoys walking who knows that as soon as he poops he's going to be taken home will not go until he absolutely cannot hold it. If you want to reward him for pooping, bring the biscuit with you, and give it to him when he goes! As to the original poster, doesn't sound like your dog is getting much exercise at all. A block here, a block there. 15 minute walks. Unless your dog is elderly, that's just not enough exercise for a newly adopted dog.

I'm sorry your ill, but perhaps an older dog would be better pet for you? Sounds like neither one of you is happy.

I find it you make a REALLY LOUD noise that sounds as much as possible like another dog they get the point immediately!

Susan is right - at least in our very recent experience. Three weeks ago, we took in a barely 3 month old kitten and did the muzzle and leash thing for intros. That is all that was needed and within a week, this feral kitten was playing with dog ears while they slept. The kitten has been no trouble for our 4 resident hounds, however our 2 existing resident kitties have been a handful around the kitten. The dogs are totally kitten safe, but our cats certainly aren't! Good luck trying to keep the hounds calm with leashes on!! Exactly!! George has been fine! Mister Bigglesworth took this opportunity to test out his ability to urine mark....ARGH! Poor new kitty was getting the blame until I figured it out. Da Ebil Won wanted to make it perfectly clear this was HIS dog!

We had an English Setter who took Flagyl daily for his IBD. It worked wonders for him. He's gone now, but it was something else (massive growth in his chest) that took him.

If they were OK with a cat before, I think you might be over thinking this! They won't see it in the same manner as they would a new dog. It'll be that weird fuzzy thing they need to check out for a day or so, and then they'll probably just ignore it. I have recently brought home a new 11 year old cat that was reportedly afraid of dogs. Within 2 weeks, he was hanging in the same room with George--although not too close to him. George was curious (I've had cats since I got George) because this cat is WAY overweight and barely even looks like a cat (at least I imagine to George!) but once he got a good look, he just walked away and that was that! Obviously the caution you're suggesting is very important--but I would not anticipate this as a problem! Pretty crummy of the ex-girlfriend to just leave her cats behind.

George has gotten over his fear of shiny floors. I'm afraid I'm a bit of a hard @$$ about it. I just picked him up and placed him on the floor, and stood there for a while, they carried on. No babying. No treats. No real reaction at all. More of a "let's go!" happy tone and just WALKED. For what it's worth, if his nails are too long, slick floors in general are harder to walk on.

If it has happened before, and gone away, it's not likely to be a food allergy, but could be an allergy of some other sort like a seasonal pollen allergy. I'm rather shocked your vet went straight to a long-acting steroid shot instead of trying Benadryl or something else first. When it happened before, was it about the same time of the year? If he's allergic to something like (just an example) Oak pollen, it would make sense that it would happen during the same approximate time of the year if it's a pollen allergy. A food allergy would not just come and go (unless you switch foods, obviously!)

Probiotics do the exact same thing. Many dogs cannot digest dairy, and yogurt happens to give my dog diarrhea.

Chris, you know I am generally pretty firm with my animal keeping habits--but when Kramer was a pup, he worked me into a lather! But! He was sick ALL THE TIME. Every time we went to the vet, the vet said, "He's underweight" and I knew that. Stuff was coming out of every possible location for the first year of his life, poor guy! Once he was healthy, he knew he had my number. I finally got tough about it, and started with the 15 minutes, here's your food, eat it go hungry. Took a week, and he might have lost a pound or two, but then he started to eat like a normal dog and never reverted. If the vet thinks she's OK, and there aren't any health issues, you KNOW what you have to do!

Having once worked in the meat department of a supermarket, I could tell you stories that would make your skin crawl...long story short--it's a simple matter to unwrap "fresh" meat and rewrap it with a new sticker and a new date! And guess where the stuff that smells "off" went? The local nursing home!

I think some of you missed the original poster's real query--she's not looking for traction; she's looking for padding! If the dog is in that much pain after having his corns dealt with, I would suggest the vet didn't do a very good job getting them out. Have you been using anything on his paws to soften up the corn parts that remain? That might help. I am very, very lucky that George doesn't have corns. The only boots I know of that help are the TheraPaws.

Ah, well, we had an English Setter with a mass on his spleen. Unfortunately when they opened him up to remove the spleen, they found cancer all throughout him so he was put to sleep. I guess it really depends what they find! Removing the spleen is not that big a deal as a surgery.

Why not LET him do what he wants? Sure, it might make him more sore--for the evening or morning. But what's the point of life at all if he can't do something that he enjoys and is ABLE to do it? My own boy is 10 and he has LS, and I have a list of things he's "restricted" from--but when he cuts loose with a butt tuck on-leash zoomie, I don't stop him. Does he pay for it later? Yes, sometimes. Does that negate the fun he had doing it? I don't think so. I suffer from chronic pain. When I do certain things, I KNOW I'm going to pay later. That doesn't stop me. I would rather pay later than NEVER enjoy doing things that I enjoy. So, since it sounds like his time may be short regardless, if he were mine, I'd let him do whatever he wants within reason.

A little piece of cake, even if it does have sweetner in it, is not going to hurt her.

If you're interested in companionship for Arthur, you might consider a second male. If the dog is primarily for YOU, then by all means, get the girl! I find that two males tend to bond more tightly than a male and MOST females (not all of course). Females tend to be more interested in themselves...