GeorgeofNE

Yogurt gives my dog diarrhea. There is no reason to feed it unless your dog has some sort of issue that might be aided by probiotics. Just as the FDA is making the yogurt companies stop their advertising claiming "digestive health" as a result of eating yogurt, unless your dog's gut bacteria is fouled up, say by antibiotics, it shouldn't be necessary.

Unless your vet is aware that ALL Greyhounds have larger hearts than "regular" dogs, I suspect she is just fine.

My dog had terrible S.A. when I got him. Believe me, they know the difference between "human isn't here" and "human is in the other room and won't let me in." My dog has everything any dog could ever want in terms of sleep options: a queen size Tempur-Pedic bed, a gigantic Victoria Peak dog bed--he sleeps with me at night, and when I am home, on his delicious dog bed (or the couch). And despite having been with me for six year, when I am not home he sleep directly in front of the door. Even though his bed and his couch are, literally, a couple of feet away. She's going to sleep where she is comfortable sleeping when you're gone. For my dog, he HAS to sleep on the spot he last saw me, and where he knows I will magicallyl reappear at some point. I know this, because I have a surveillance system and he rarely moves from that spot during his 9 hours alone Monday-Friday. And if I'm home? He never, ever, ever sleeps there! I don't know if they have D.A.P. diffusers in England, but if they do, that seemed to help George a bit. Also, lots of exercise helped. I admit, George is not shy or spooky in the least, so long walks were easy. But what made him stop howling for hours on end was not confining him in any way. He just didn't tolerate it. And he was a racer for years--so it's not like he wasn't used to it! There is a huge difference between being in a crate at the kennel with dogs below you, next to you, and across from you, and being in a confined space, alone, in a strange place. So you may actually find that confining her to the kitchen is causing more stress than is worth. Dog proof to the best of your ability, get up early and walk, walk, walk, and be patient!

Don't do anything! Let the cats come around in their own time. It's their home too. As long as the dog isn't seeking them out, why would you want to force the issue? Make sure the cats have an escape area (a place where they can run to but the dog cannot enter), and all should be well. One of my cats is now 13. I got him when he was almost 12, and he had recently been traumatized by a dog who chased him and barked at him (long story, but he was an only pet, his owner died, he was given to a couple with an obnoxious terrier). That's all he knew of dogs. I never once made him be near my Greyhound. It took a while, but eventually he realized the dog wasn't going to bother him, and now he weaves around his legs when they're all waiting for meals! It's quite amazing, really! My other cat thinks he IS a Greyhound, and is usually no more than 6 inches from the dog at any given time!

He'll likely out grow it. In the meantime, use something washable in the car where the pup rides. My Kramer (who was thrown from a moving car when he was 12 weeks old) had terrible carsickness when I first got him, and he got over it with lots of short rides to fun places.

I just want to say bless you for not ditching this boy. I really hope you can work it out. Sounds like he's had a bit of a rough time of it. Six tracks? You have to wonder why he was moved so many times.

My guess is there is something in your yard he is hearing. My second guess is that if he slept in your bedroom with you, where dogs are happiest, this would be a LOT easier to deal with. No reason a dog you've had for a year should be crated to sleep, but if he's by himself, he really shouldn't be. Dogs really want to be with their people at night.

It's absurd that in your country any Greyhound has to wear a muzzle in public. A Greyhound puppy isn't significantly different than any other puppy. Sighthounds are not inherently vicious dogs. I can SORT OF understand them having that rule for a retired racer, but a Greyhound that has never been involved in kennel life or racing? Ridiculous!

If it were me, he would not be welcome in my home if he "hated" my dog. Love me, love my dog, or adios. Dogs are pretty good judges of character. Do you need a "hard headed" man who hates your dog in your life? I sure wouldn't! Having said that, perhaps you can hang out at HIS place. Or he can take you out on lovely dinner dates and such! He's not your husband, and he doesn't have to be at your place all the time. Disclaimer: I think there is something wrong with people who don't like dogs, and I wouldn't even consider dating someone who didn't love animals as much as I do. And I am an old maid...so there's that!

The symptoms are indicative of arthritis, if his pain is upon rising. Particularly if he basically shakes it off and walks normally! As an arthritis sufferer myself, I can tell you that the act of rising from a sitting or laying down position is probably the most difficult thing I do. Have you gotten him on an NSAID?

I don't know why people suggest that rookie Greyhound owners become foster homes! My dog would have been FAR better off left at Raynham's kennels while he waited for a home than in the foster home he was in. A well-meaning girl who knew NOTHING about Greyhounds, training, or how to transition a dog into a new situation. I see people suggesting this so often on GT and it baffles me.

Put the dog in the bedroom and shut the door. It's Ruby's house. Better safe than sorry, and I don't think you should have to put up your dog given it's your house.

She looks just right to me. She'll naturally "soften" up a little unless you exercise her a lot, and that'll blur those edges a bit, but don't let anyone tell you she's too thin. She's supposed to be thin!

My understanding is it isn't the length of time the dog is under that causes the problems. Also, if your dog is one of the many who is just genetically predisposed to dental disease, you can brush until the cows come home and it really doesn't help. I myself would ask the vet to pull everything questionable at once versus doing the procedure twice. My dog had a bad experience with a simple cleaning, so I do not have his teeth cleaned and they're fine because he's one of the lucky Greyhounds with good teeth. I give him bones and do not brush. His teeth are awesome. It's really the luck of the drawn I think. Siamese cats are the same way; genetic predisposition towards periodontal disease. One of mine lost all his teeth from the "fangs" back when he was 5 years old.

So, crazy question: do you give him anything (to eat) at night that he doesn't get during the day? I ask this because it took my thick head five years to figure out that the peanut butter in the Kong I gave George every day was in large part responsible for his frequent accidents. Since I stopped giving him the peanut butter, I think he's had maybe 2 accidents (versus the 2-3 a week he used to have). It's easy to see this as a behavior thing, but think carefully if ANYTHING is different.

Technically, they're outside. I'm sure they see no reason NOT to pee there. I'd suggest you escort them for a while and not let them use the dog doors. That way you can correct anyone the instant they try it.

I prefer to get my medication recommendations from my vet. What is it that you need to treat with an antibiotic ointment?

He's 14? Sounds pretty normal for a dog that old to have some walking issues! I would count myself lucky if my dog was doing so well at 14! I personally would stop the neutraceuticals. Once you've progressed that far, you're just wasting your money. If he's already on pain meds, you're well past the point of them being useful (and there is a lot of debate whether they ever are).

You really don't need to take your dog to the vet for a flea. Which is exactly what it sounds like. Frontline Plus or something like it for prevention, and a Capstar tablet to get rid of them within about a half an hour.

I promise you, "track time" is well before 6 AM. She just wants to get going. I agree with taking her out and then putting her back in the crate. If you do that enough, she'll realize it isn't worth it if she doesn't really have to go. She'd most likely sleep longer if she wasn't in the crate at all, but since she is so new to you, probably a good idea!

George had TERRIBLE SA when I got him. It took time. Just time. For him to understand that I ALWAYS came back eventually. He howled like a wolf when I first got him, for hours and hours . That's when I learned that this was not a dog for whom the crate was a "safe and familiar" environment. He hated it. As soon as I stopped crating him, he shut up. I never muzzled him. He's an adult dog, not a puppy. I made sure to never leave any food around, and he never touched a thing. I guess you already know your guy is a chewer--I don't know what to tell you in that case. Some people actually put peanut butter on the inside of the muzzle? I used DAP diffusers, which may or may not have helped, and I used a Kong with peanut butter in it. Little did I know that the peanut butter makes him pee! Took me five years to figure that one out...but I digress! I also got up an hour early so we could walk, walk, walk, walk before I had to leave. Exercise is your friend. Don't leave your dog with rawhide chews or chips. He may find them high value, but he could choke to death on them, and that's NOT how you want to cure his SA. The idea is to occupy the dog for the first few minutes of your departure, not all day. I wasn't able to do the alone training the way people suggest--coming back before the dog gets stressed. George had to ride it out. And he did.

FYI, the doseage for humans and dogs with Benadryl is VERY different. Dogs can take almost twice as much as people.

Just my opinion, but I would not go on a week long vacation just after adopting a dog. I would opt for a "staycation" since I'm sure you already arranged time off work, and spend that time bonding with my new family member IF my vacation was one where my dog couldn't go. But that's just me, and I'm an old maid whose dog is my companion, and I wouldn't enjoy going away from a new pet enough to make it worth the money. I recently had surgery and was unable to walk George for a month, so I took him to stay with a friend who had three Greyhounds. Even though he knew her, and had company, he was a different dog when he got home. Almost shell shocked. And I've had him for seven years! He doesn't do well with change! And I know he was very well cared for.

If you're looking for something to change up what's going on, AND she's a "major puller," there you go! Work on her obedience and leash manners. It will help the two of you bond, it will give her something to think about besides being alone (she sounds like she DOES have SA), and a well behaved dog is not supposed to pull on the leash. When I was 10 years old, I could walk our four well behaved (trained!) English Setters myself. Walking two dogs should not take strength. If taking her to work is NEW, it could be the source of her stress. My dog really does prefer his own bed, his own walls, his very predictable routine. Anything different throws him for a loop, and I've had him for quite a long time now. Doesn't matter. He would prefer to to the same thing at the same time every day. That's not boring to him, that's safe and comfortable.

He sounds very happy! You'd know if he wasn't getting enough exercise cause he'd find a way to entertain himself--digging, chewing, stealing, etc. Sounds like a great dog and a great life.