Raw Feeding Basics

[Guest myGreyHeart]

Is there a simple way to make sure they get a good balance with raw, (since this is a whole new thing) and I won't be throwing anything off? (kindneys, etc.)

[Guest greyhound9797]

Is there a simple way to make sure they get a good balance with raw, (since this is a whole new thing) and I won't be throwing anything off? (kindneys, etc.)

Yes, be sure to follow the 80% meat/10% edible bone/5% liver/5% "other" organ. This ratio is what is naturally found in whole prey. You can accomplish it without feeding whole prey by feeding a variety of meats and, if available, organ. For the past 2 weeks Piper has eaten beef cheek meat, chicken necks, bone-in chicken breast, a few sardines and jack mackeral, some liver and spleen. I don't mix it up every day, I feed the same protein for about 5 days then switch, with some liver and organ thrown in every once in awhile.

 

It really is easy, just give it a try! =)

 

Sandra in FL

[Guest Cris_M]

So, I know its only been a few days, but I'm having some issues with the raw thing-any help?? I've been giving my dogs less kibble in the am than normal and 1/4 chicken in the evenings. We're on day 5. The lab has poo that looks like little dry styrofoam balls, ok, less bone for her-that helped. The grey still has the almost liquid poo that she has had from day 1-no matter what she eats. I've been picking it up twice a day to make sure I'm keeping track of it and she has yet to have a normal poo. She is getting the extra bone I cut out of the labs serving. Also the lab goes chew, chew swallow-quick and easy. The grey wants to run around the yard for a few minutes, then eat a bit, then run around some more. It takes her about 10 minutes to eat. This may not seem like long, but I have to seperate them and stand guard. Kind of a hassle. Also, the flies-OMG! Since the grey puts hers down in a million different places before it's gone, I have flies in my backyard like never before. I'm trying really hard to make myself do this until the kibble is gone (probably 3 more weeks), but when will I see positive results in the grey? Oh, and the GAS...worse than ever!

 

Just a couple of ideas...

 

Strip the fat and skin off the chicken for a while. Those can create diarrhea. If you are feeding chicken leg quarters, remove the organ-y things near the backbone. They are great nutritionally, but can cause diarrhea also. Stay away from organs for a while. Do not worry that you are going to compromise your dog's nutrition by reducing or removing items short term.

 

Increase the bone. (Each dog is different. Duncan needs more bone than is called for in the 80/10/5/5 golden ratio.) I know you are already working on this by giving your grey the lab's bone. You may need to add more. When you get to firm poops, you can back off on the bone to find what works for your particular grey.

 

About the flies...... Duncan is fed outside, he is a sloooooow eater, and we rarely have flies. I think the main difference for Duncan is that he routinely eats in the exact same spot in the yard. He eats his meal and then licks down the grass. If he is fed something he doesn't care for or the food is too large or complex for him, we have flies. No biggie. I just trash the item or I wash it off and stick it in the fridge. Obviously, food that will be re-fed should be picked up promptly.

 

Perhaps your girl is running around the yard in an effort to keep her food away from your lab. I'm not saying your lab would go after her food, but she might think she needs to protect it. If there is a way to separate your dogs, she might go straight to eating. Remember that separation can be done by time rather than space. In other words, feed the lab first, bring the lab in, send the grey out to eat.

 

The kibble/raw mix may be partly to blame for the gas. When Duncan gets kibble (rarely), he is very gassy. The gas can also be from your pup making the adjustment to raw or the raw diet being too rich. Can you try dropping the kibble and feeding lean meat?

 

The few times Duncan has eaten poop, he has had super loose stools. I would be concerned that poop eating is a sign of dietary deficiencies. Not being a nutritionist, I can't say for sure, but a raw diet may help stop the poop eating.

 

Hopefully, your pup's diarrhea will end before your patience does. You aren't in a fun place to be, and your dedication to trying raw feeding is admirable. There will come a time when you look back on this and are amazed that things turned out to be so much easier than you expected.

[Guest greyaddict]

The other threads said to come here.

So my question is do you feed veggies?

I have a recipe and would like opinions from raw feeders.

 

10 lbs meat ( some trim)

1 lbs veggie mix above and below ground

1 tbs crushed garlic

1/4 c hemp or salmon oil

I would also like kelp and alfalfa in there.

 

Feeding this I would also give bones like turkey necks that they already love.

Plus I have a moose in the freezer so lots of meat.

 

Any advise would be great. I feel I'm just about ready to take the plunge.

 

Thank you,

 

Dani

 

edited for spelling

Edited December 21, 2009 by greyaddict

[Guest Ola]

The other threads said to come here.

So my question is do you feed veggies?

I have a recipe and would like opinions from raw feeders.

 

10 lbs meat ( some trim)

1 lbs veggie mix above and below ground

1 tbs crushed garlic

1/4 c hemp or salmon oil

I would also like kelp and alfalfa in there.

 

Feeding this I would also give bones like turkey necks that they already love.

Plus I have a moose in the freezer so lots of meat.

 

Any advise would be great. I feel I'm just about ready to take the plunge.

 

Thank you,

 

Dani

 

edited for spelling

I don't feed veggies. In my opinion since dogs can't digest them, they don't need them. If it makes you feel better to feed them, go ahead, but don't let it take the place of meat and bones. I also try to stay away from ground stuff, except when it's a really awesome price for stuff I couldn't afford otherwise - whole foods are better!

 

I don't use kelp or alfalfa either - we basically just do meat, bones, organs, and the odd cookie here and there cause they're just so cute.

[sweetdogs]

Plus I have a moose in the freezer so lots of meat.

 

Any advise would be great. I feel I'm just about ready to take the plunge.

A moose! You must have a big freezer!

 

I'm too lazy to feed veggies anymore but if you're not & your pups like them, feel free to add.

 

Go for it!

[Trihounds]

We don't feed veggies either but if we have leftovers from stews or roasts or whatever, the dogs will happily snack away. A moose will feed a lot of people for a long time!! Surely a nice treat for all your puppers, too.

[Hollis]

 

Plus I have a moose in the freezer .................

 

 

 

thank you. I needed a giggle right about now!

 

 

 

of course now you have me thinking about dogs in elk again!

[Guest greyaddict]

Okay I have a cut and wrapped moose in three freezers

 

So if you are feeding raw, what about cookies? Can they still have Milk bones? My boyfriend insists on giving then treats. He's been well trained by Rayvan. Those old brood moms know just how to get what they want. So he's become "house monkey" and give in when she demands it.

 

Or do I make treats by freezing small bits of meat or organs?

 

Thank you,

 

Dani

[Guest Cris_M]

Okay I have a cut and wrapped moose in three freezers

 

So if you are feeding raw, what about cookies? Can they still have Milk bones? My boyfriend insists on giving then treats. He's been well trained by Rayvan. Those old brood moms know just how to get what they want. So he's become "house monkey" and give in when she demands it.

 

Or do I make treats by freezing small bits of meat or organs?

 

Thank you,

 

Dani

 

 

There is no problem with treats -- as long as they stay treats. Just about anything that is a minor part of the diet is okay.

 

Duncan gets a small Milk-Bone after every walk or whatever-event-DH-is-celebrating-at-the-time. DH can't help himself. Sounds kind of like your BF, huh?

[Guest Ola]

There is no problem with treats -- as long as they stay treats. Just about anything that is a minor part of the diet is okay.

I agree - my dogs get a cookie or two every day. Sometimes they're cookies I baked, other times they're ones from the pet store. Stuff like dehydrated liver is good too, and dogs seem to love it.

[Guest Vers]

This is a very informative thread, and I really appreciate the effort you folks put into it. I've been considering raw feeding for some months now, done a fair bit of reading, and would like to start -- but please forgive my ignorant question that I haven't found a satisfactory answer to. Is there a way to start off halfway -- as in, can be healthy to feed kibble and mix-ins in the am, and then raw in the pm? Are there persons here or resources out there that talk about this?

[Guest mcsheltie]

There are a lot of people who do this. I do quite a bit. I used to feed only raw, but I am the road so much and my pet sitters don't go for it.

 

Go for it! And when you feel more comfortable and see how well your dogs are doing I would be willing to bet you'll switch completely to raw.

[Guest Vers]

Thank you, Julie -- that is reassuring. Do you still try to stay with the 80/10/5/5 percentages over the course of the week or month when you're also feeding kibble meals? I ask partly (no pun intended) because sometimes the parts are in short supply in the stores here.

[Guest Swifthounds]

what is the difference between feeding raw & cooked? DBF gets free meat from a local supermarket (stuff after sell by date, emphasis on sell by, therefore still usable, we've eaten it ourselves) but he refused the idea of feeding it raw to humor him I cook it. I understand the dental/mental stimulation but I am wondering about nutritional difference.

 

Raw proteins are more easily broken down and easier on the kidneys as well.

[Guest RWM]

Thank you, Julie -- that is reassuring. Do you still try to stay with the 80/10/5/5 percentages over the course of the week or month when you're also feeding kibble meals? I ask partly (no pun intended) because sometimes the parts are in short supply in the stores here.

 

There might be some disagreement here, but it is not necessary, IMO, to stick with precise percentages. That is a guideline only.

 

For instance, I feed two meals a day. I feed a variety of ground beef, chicken, turkey, or lamb once a day. The ground meat is specially prepared for me by a butcher who caters to animals. The ground food contains a percentage (roughly 20%) of ground soft bone,known as RMB ("raw meaty bone") and a small percentage of veggies like parsely, carrot and garlic. I supplement that with a nutritional supplement called "Hair of the Dog" and Grizzly salmon oil. I believe that salmon oil from Alaskan and arctic sources is the best, according to my research. The Omega 3 content is quite high in salmon oil and is very beneficial for your animals.

 

The other meal I prepare consists of chicken or duck parts, such as backs, quarters, necks, and feet. I don't worry too much about organ meats because I give my hounds enough other good stuff to compensate.

 

I also give my hounds hard bones, like marrow bones, every once in a while. Some folks don't agree with this as they believe hard bones can cause tooth fractures. However, I don't give them marrow bones often, nor to I leave them for the hounds when I'm not around. I believe the benefits of giving them hard bones outweigh the possible problems. A good regimen of bones will assure minimal problems with your hound's teeth, and many of us believe this regimen virtually eliminates the need for teeth cleaning. This is important for greys, since the administration of anesthesia to them can be tricky.

 

As of late, I have decided, for variety purposes, to give my hounds an occasional meal of high grade fish-based kibble like that made by Orijen or Innova (EVO). Both of these kibbles come close to raw food. They are exceptionally high quality. I'll do this maybe once or twice a week. I prefer the fish-based kibble because I am giving my hounds large amounts of meat and I want to vary that with a fish-based product. My hounds do not object to the switch, and it has not caused any problems. If it did, I'd go back to strictly raw feeding, but so far, so good.

 

Again, raw feeding need not be done with precision. The supplements, such as Hair of the Dog and salmon oil, provide all the nutritional balance you'll need if you don't stick strictly with the "program."

 

Under no circumstances do I cook any of the raw food. This will cause the bones contained in that food to splinter.

 

Treats are fine. I give my hounds dehydrated chicken tenders.

 

I do not give my hounds any junk food. Any table food I give them consists primarily of scrambled eggs or yogurt, once in a while.

Edited January 3, 2010 by RWM

[Guest greyhound9797]

 

There might be some disagreement here, but it is not necessary, IMO, to stick with precise percentages. That is a guideline only.

Correct, the percentages are a guideline and should be adjusted as necessary. If your dog is underweight, feed a bit more food. If you have stools that are too loose or hard, increase or decrease bone until they are small and firm.

 

For instance, I feed two meals a day. I feed a variety of ground beef, chicken, turkey, or lamb once a day. The ground meat is specially prepared for me by a butcher who caters to animals. The ground food contains a percentage (roughly 20%) of ground soft bone,known as RMB ("raw meaty bone") and a small percentage of veggies like parsely, carrot and garlic. I supplement that with a nutritional supplement called "Hair of the Dog" and Grizzly salmon oil. I believe that salmon oil from Alaskan and arctic sources is the best, according to my research. The Omega 3 content is quite high in salmon oil and is very beneficial for your animals.

I don't grind anything, nor do I feed fruits and veggies. There is a lot of controversy on this topic but I believe that dogs are carnivores and have no use for those foods, nor can they digest them properly.

 

http://rawfed.com/myths/ground.html

http://rawfed.com/myths/omnivores.html

http://rawfed.com/myths/stomachcontents.html

 

I also give my hounds hard bones, like marrow bones, every once in a while. Some folks don't agree with this as they believe hard bones can cause tooth fractures. However, I don't give them marrow bones often, nor to I leave them for the hounds when I'm not around. I believe the benefits of giving them hard bones outweigh the possible problems. A good regimen of bones will assure minimal problems with your hound's teeth, and many of us believe this regimen virtually eliminates the need for teeth cleaning. This is important for greys, since the administration of anesthesia to them can be tricky.

By feeding edible bones, you are providing the dental benefits to your dog. There truly is no benefit to hard bone; the only problem is tooth fractures. It may not happen today, or tomorrow, but down the road it might.

 

 

As of late, I have decided, for variety purposes, to give my hounds an occasional meal of high grade fish-based kibble like that made by Orijen or Innova (EVO). Both of these kibbles come close to raw food. They are exceptionally high quality. I'll do this maybe once or twice a week. I prefer the fish-based kibble because I am giving my hounds large amounts of meat and I want to vary that with a fish-based product. My hounds do not object to the switch, and it has not caused any problems. If it did, I'd go back to strictly raw feeding, but so far, so good.

Nothing "comes close to raw food"; it is either cooked or raw. Fish IS considered meat and is another protein to provide but is best when raw. Raw chicken breasts and raw salmon are both almost 21% protein. There's really no need to provide it in kibble form.

 

Again, raw feeding need not be done with precision. The supplements, such as Hair of the Dog and salmon oil, provide all the nutritional balance you'll need if you don't stick strictly with the "program."

It's definitely not precise, as each dog is different but a guideline to start is a great idea. Supplements aren't necessary if you are feeding lots of meat, some bone and some organ. Hair of the Dog contains vitamins that are easily found in raw food (along with ground flax seed, stabalized rice bran and ground grain sorghum - 1st 3 ingredients - which are not a natural diet) but by adding organ, you are feeding foods that are high in the vitamins and minerals that supplements don't supply.

 

While I feel some raw is better than none and all raw is better than some - if you are already half way there why not go all the way?

[Guest RWM]

If I had to worry about precise percentages, I probably wouldn't bother with raw feeding. Getting the ingredients is time consuming and expensive enough. If I had to start pre-measuring everything and preparing different combinations of raw food every day, I'd likely not bother with raw feeding. But, hey, that's just me.

 

I know of some raw feeders (primarily on this board) who do not use ground meat and do not include veggies. To each his own. I buy from a butcher who grinds the meat and adds bone meal and veggies. The percentages he uses are approved by countless raw feeders I know. Suffice it to say that my vet (a grey owner) buys the same food I do (veggies and bone meal included) and I consider my vet to be knowledgeable and I trust her judgment. I question your comment that hounds cannot digest veggies properly. My hounds have had no digestion problems ... no big D and firm poops. So, the veggy content can't be bad. In any case, it's not a major ingredient in the ground food I buy.

 

Insofar as the issue of hard bones is concerned, I am aware of the potential problem of tooth breakage and I have taken the necessary precautions. My hounds love hard bones, so I will continue to indulge them once in a while and with supervision.

 

We can argue all day long about what comes close to raw feeding. New foods are coming out all the time. Orijen and EVO recently came out with fish-based kibble. I presume one of the goals is to try to come as close to raw feeding as possible. I see no harm in giving my hounds a variety, consisting basically of raw foods and an occasional quality kibble meal. There is nothing in stone that says you can't or shouldn't mix the two.

 

As for supplements, I think certain of them are very good, regardless of what I feed my hounds. I particularly like salmon oil because of the huge percentage of Omega 3 found in it. If I've missed anything nutritional in what I feed my hounds, I believe that shortage is compensated by the supplements and oil I feed them.

 

I don't think there is any real dispute that raw feeding (especially if one has to measure everything according to precise guidelines) is time consuming and expensive. So far, raw feeding has been an acceptable approach for me, but add another couple of layers, such as varying the raw food every day with prepared meals, and closely watching the percentages, and I'd probably revert to a good quality kibble.

 

Bottom line, if you are intent upon swaying folks that raw feeding is the best way to go, you have to be prepared to deal with the possibility that most folks don't have the time, the money, or inclination to bother with it. They feel that there is plenty of good quality kibble around that meets all of their hounds' needs, at a fraction of the cost.

 

The real bottom line is that my hounds look great, with minimal health issues, no big D, very little gas, and firm, low quantity poops. I must be doing something right, so I'll stick with my idiosyncratic ways, at least for the time being.

Edited January 3, 2010 by RWM

[Guest mcsheltie]

Thank you, Julie -- that is reassuring. Do you still try to stay with the 80/10/5/5 percentages over the course of the week or month when you're also feeding kibble meals? I ask partly (no pun intended) because sometimes the parts are in short supply in the stores here.

I do somewhat. I'll explain as I ramble on

 

If you are feeding strictly raw you do need to keep the balance in mind. But there is no need to be anal about it either. This is too simplistic, but gives a rough idea. Meat provides protein and some water soluble vitamins, bones & connective tissue supplies the minerals, while organs provide the oil soluble vitamins. Dogs are able to synthesize nutrients that we can not from protein. Vitamin C is one example.

 

When I fed only raw I fed a balance over time method based on a week. I choose a week because nutrients work synergistically. Also it was easier to do a rough percentage based on 14 meals. I think a month is too long a period. On the same lines as we are better off if we eat some fruit regularly, rather than a big portion once a month. I would get the Big D from a once a month fruit binge, and dogs will from a big portion of liver once a month.

 

So even tho I am only feeding raw part time (mostly kibble these days) I see a small piece of liver a week as a vitamin supplement for my dogs. A couple meals of RMBs as a mineral supplement and dental hygiene. And meat meals w/eggs and add ins to balance it out. Voila, there is the percentage without being anal

 

More ramblings... For those that want to do full time raw and can't find sources in your area. Check out Taylor Pond Farms (they have distributors in many states now) and Hare Today. Shipping frozen food is expensive. But you can find RMBs, muscle meat, chicken gizzards, chicken & beef liver locally. And order things like different organs or green tripe. Don't forget eggs in your meal plans (with the shell) It is natures most complete food. Eggs and fish are the two most easily digested proteins (that is why fish based kibble works so well for Greys). Buy whole chickens, they are inexpensive. Buy the most meaty bones you can find. The best way to save money is to buy a freezer (I got one at a used appliance store for $75 and it is still going after 5 yrs) and have your butcher order a case of turkey necks, beef or turkey hearts, whole chickens or stewing beef. Check for poultry farms in your area. We have a turkey farm an hour away and I made a monthly trip. I gave them the 80/20/10/10 and they ground a pet mix for me at $1 per lb. I also got necks & other whole parts at good prices. I found a family operated cattle farm that would sell me beef tongues & hearts (these are considered muscle meat, not organs). Check with restaurants in your area, especially ethnic ones. You could get a case or partial case of what they are ordering at their price. Half the fun is finding something different at a steal

 

Veggies will be a debate for quite a while. Our technology is no where near figuring out the complexities of phytonutrients. What is known is dogs can't digest plant matter well unless the cell walls are broken. So if you want to get the best nutritional bang as possible from them, they need to be run through a blender, a juicer or smash the heck out of them. Veggies in a ground product such as RWM uses is a good way to feed veggies.

 

Does anyone want to know the disgusting thing I found out about baby carrots?

[Guest Vers]

This is so helpful! Thank you for your answers. The pups' kibble meal is Eagle Pack Holistic Anchovy Sardine and Salmon, with mix-ins of things like EVO canned food or homemade turkey and sweet potato stew. They've enjoyed raw parts like turkey necks and green tripe with no ill effects. The three main reasons I'm interested in doing a part-raw diet are: Stella can be a fussy eater, but she never hesitates when I offer her raw; she had terrible tartar on her teeth when she came home here, we've worked hard to get that cleaned up (she just got an all-clear from the vet last week that she is no longer in need of a dental), and it seems raw could really help maintain that; and it seems right for their overall health if I get it right. The main reason I'm not ready to go all raw at this point is because the feeding arrangements get just a little too complicated when we're feeding raw in the house with crating and towels and such. I can do it in the evening, but our morning schedule is already a little too much.

 

Thank you also for the ideas around finding alternate parts supply sources. First, I need to find a freezer like yours!

 

(Pretty sure I know -- firsthand -- what you're going to say about baby carrots, but please tell us )

[Guest RWM]

I think McSheltie and I are pretty much on the same page. Looks like we've both arrived at some form of compromise between raw feeding and good quality kibble.

 

With respect to turkey necks: they are big and I had to cut them up in pieces. Still, my hounds dragged them all over the place and made a mess. I have gone to duck necks, which are bigger than chicken necks yet smaller than turkey necks. No need to cut them up, and my hounds cannot swallow them in one gulp. They have to work them over and sever them into pieces. I get my duck necks and duck feet from a local duck farm in twenty pound boxes. Both of these are good for my hounds' teeth and they love them. For some reason some folks get skeeved listening to their hounds crunch up bones and cartilage. Like chalk on a blackboard, I guess. Doesn't bother me ... in fact, it tells me just how well my hounds are chewing it.

 

The veggies my butcher adds to the ground meat is blended first and then added to the mix. The RMB is ground up, pulverized, and added to the mix, as well. The meat is ground. I buy primarily beef and turkey, but go with chicken, duck and lamb for variety. It all comes in two and five pound tubes, so it's easy.

 

I scoot around to Asian markets, duck farms, poultry farms, and some good markets where I can get chicken parts for as little as about 50 cents a pound.

 

Raw eggs. Yep, I chuck the whole egg into the mix ... shell and all ... and mash it up.

 

I will give organ meat rarely, for no particular reason. I don't like green tripe, although I concede it is healthy. I just don't want to deal with the smell of it, as it stretches my "raw food tolerance limits."

 

I spent several days researching fish oil. It all boiled down to Grizzly salmon oil for me. I also like Hair of the Dog, which I think is a good powder supplement.

 

OK, McSheltie, you have my attention. What's with the raw baby carrots?

[Guest Swifthounds]

The main reason I'm not ready to go all raw at this point is because the feeding arrangements get just a little too complicated when we're feeding raw in the house with crating and towels and such. I can do it in the evening, but our morning schedule is already a little too much.

 

So why not switch to one meal/day? If you feed one raw meal/day you only have to make whatever feeding arrangements once per day. Also, you can feed more complicated and mentally stimulating meals. I've fed one meal/day since we started everyone of raw and it's an easy routine. I simply pull out something to defrost before work and feed in the evening.

[Guest mcsheltie]

There are no such thing as baby carrots. They are made from carrots that are too old, badly shapen (is that a word? ) whatever so that they can not be sold as-is. They stamp out the baby carrot shape. The bad part is... have you noticed that they turn whitish after they have been in the frig a while? That is because after they are stamped they are soaked in preseravtives. The white is the chemicals leaching out. I'll never buy them again!!!

 

I used to feed them as dog treats...eck!

[Guest mcsheltie]

This is so helpful! Thank you for your answers. The pups' kibble meal is Eagle Pack Holistic Anchovy Sardine and Salmon, with mix-ins of things like EVO canned food or homemade turkey and sweet potato stew. They've enjoyed raw parts like turkey necks and green tripe with no ill effects. The three main reasons I'm interested in doing a part-raw diet are: Stella can be a fussy eater, but she never hesitates when I offer her raw; she had terrible tartar on her teeth when she came home here, we've worked hard to get that cleaned up (she just got an all-clear from the vet last week that she is no longer in need of a dental), and it seems raw could really help maintain that; and it seems right for their overall health if I get it right. The main reason I'm not ready to go all raw at this point is because the feeding arrangements get just a little too complicated when we're feeding raw in the house with crating and towels and such. I can do it in the evening, but our morning schedule is already a little too much.

 

Thank you also for the ideas around finding alternate parts supply sources. First, I need to find a freezer like yours!

 

(Pretty sure I know -- firsthand -- what you're going to say about baby carrots, but please tell us )

 

I find that my dogs eat raw much faster than kibble. You could plan ground or muscle meat meals for the morning. Throw it in a dish and it would be gone in a flash.

 

I feed turkey necks frozen. It takes them longer to chew and cleans their teeth better. With dogs the size of Greyhounds if you forget to thaw it doesn't matter. Give it to them anyway. Shoot, even my Shelties can eat a frozen turkey neck.

 

Sounds like you are really doing a greyt job feeding your dogs.

[Guest RWM]

I feed turkey necks frozen. It takes them longer to chew and cleans their teeth better. With dogs the size of Greyhounds if you forget to thaw it doesn't matter. Give it to them anyway. Shoot, even my Shelties can eat a frozen turkey neck.

 

There has been some discussion about feeding frozen food. I agree with McSheltie and a few others here that it is fine to do this. The big advantage is that it cuts down on the mess. I particularly like the large drum sticks that I buy at Costco, which it sells in roughly ten pound blocks consisting of smaller, individually wrapped pouches containing five or six drum sticks apiece. Very convenient. One pouch is good for one meal for both my hounds, along with some other goodies like a duck neck or a couple of duck feet. The price, last I looked, is around 79 cents a pound, which is not too bad.