rascalsmom

The cream from Murray Ave. Apothecary is also quite expensive. I got the cream and the hyaluronic acid (which softens the pad prior to cream application) and it was $100. And it didn't work. Really--get them hulled, and then use duct tape. Don't put anything on prior to the duct tape, or it won't stick. ANd buy name-brand duct tape, not generic stuff.

We tried the Murray Ave. cream for Jack, who has three corns spread over three of his feet, and it didn't work at all for him. What has worked the best for Jack is duct tape, which softens the corns somewhat and allows you to peel off layers of the corn every so often--and generic rimadyl twice daily. Jack's vet has suggested the surgery on the worst corn, but she also says 'about 50%' of them come back anyway, and those odds aren't good enough to put him through that. He's also had them hulled by the vet several times, but they come back really quickly anyway (like, a week or so), so that's not a terribly viable option for Jack. Plus, he gets very stressed out at the vet. So I work at them myself as best I can. Corns are horrible, and it sounds like your poor dog has an awful case of them.

Sounds like it all went very well for MoMo! Let's just hope that is the END of the nasty corn for her!

I'll be interested to see if you get any suggestions. My Jack has developed an aversion to going to the family room in the basement, which he's done regularly since we got him over a year ago. For some reason, for the past few months, he will NOT go downstairs.

FWIW, our vet--who is very grey-savvy--has suggested surgically removed Jack's most painful corn. She said that then, if the corn comes back, we could amputate the toe. So the surgery would be the first step, and amputation the final resort. My issue is that I have heard of dogs having toes amputated due to corns, only to have a corn pop up on an adjoining toe. Then what?? You can't continue to amputate toes. Jack already has three corns. For us, I have elected to not do the surgery, at least not yet. Jack mostly stays off the hard surfaces (kitchen floor, etc). He is on generic rimadyl twice daily and that seems to help. I do use the duct tape regimen, too.

Check the duct tape daily, but it only needs to be changed every 2 or 3 days--whenever it starts to look 'tattered'. Check it daily because sometimes they do fall off without you knowing it. I don't know if the duct tape would stick if you put medication under it.... Abreva is one of the few things I haven't tried.

Someone had mentioned Zithromax (Z-Pack) had worked. I think that may be the antibiotic that was referred to earlier. Jack has three corns, too. I, too, have tried everything I can think of--bee propolis, bag balm [he just licks it off], the 'special corn cream' from Pittsburgh, duct tape, hulling....the duct tape seems to change the texture of the corn, so it's easier to get layers of it off. I have not tried Abreva or any antibiotics. Corns really do 'suck a$$' as sweetdogs pointed out. It is SOOOO frustrating not to be able to help your dog!

Ruby has that, but I don't have any photos of it. She has never had any trouble from it at all.

I think she had us all fooled until she walked into my house She didn't fool me. Right about the time she grabbed my cat by the neck, I knew you were in for a wild ride! [no harm done to the cat, though]

I remember the day quite well. Here is Loca (Reko Swahili back then) at my house: On the way to Erie to meet up with Robin. You can see she was just a teeny bit stressed out. And finally meeting Robin! I'm honored to have been a part of helping Loca get home.

In reality, I wouldn't hold my breath for it to work, either, but I feel like I should try every option, just in case SOMETHING will work. Someone also posted once that after their dog was on Zithromax (aka Z pack), its corns went away...

We might be tied for "happiest person" if it really works. Does anyone know if abreva works on a NON-hulled corn?

If I get Jack's corns hulled again, I will definitely be trying the abreva. So far nothing else has worked, so it's worth a try!

Friends of ours had the LP surgery done on their then-13 year old greyhound. He did develop pneumonia, but they solved that with antibiotics. He did well once he recovered, but then died (they found cancer somewhere) about a year later. Best wishes for sweet Mork, and for you, too.

We've had Jack over a year, and he has never roached. He is not at all a dominant type of dog. Rascal spends half her life on her back, and Ruby roaches a good bit, too.

We're getting ready to move, too. I have kept the boxes to the dining room, the basement workshop, and the sewing room. Except for the sewing room, the dogs do not have access to these areas. Our "relaxing" areas, while bare of stuff on the walls and 'knick-knacks', are "normal". Plus, I started packing a couple of months ago, so they've got used to it.

To say it stinks is a gross understatement. It is HORRENDOUS.

Jack's corns don't bleed like you describe, but every now and again, when I'm able to peel some of the corn off, there is a little pinpoint of blood. It doesn't ooze or anything, though.

I just read through that thread--sounds like Rascal and her "food bowl phobia". Anyway, what I took away from that thread was not to make much of the situation. We really haven't been making much of it, but last night Jack came downstairs, and I greeted him (casually: "Hi, Jack"), and then DH greeted him (more enthusiastically), and he ran back upstairs. Maybe we should just not acknowledge it when he DOES come down? To be honest, I'm a little nervous about his reaction to moving. He is definitely the most sensitive of the three dogs....

Buddy had trouble going UP steps near the end of his life--but Jack has no trouble at all going up or down. He goes up in two leaps, and he goes down nicely, too (though fortunately not in two leaps! ). I doubt it is his eyes...he just acts like, once he's downstairs, "gotta get out of here!".

My vet is a graduate of OSU, too, and she will gladly consult with them.

Yes, we have a functional CO detector.

Hmmm....I was going to say no, but I can't. We are getting ready to move and things are in a bit of an upheaval. Not with furniture but with boxes packed, etc. Although there aren't any boxes stacked up in the family room downstairs....the majority of boxes are in the dining room (which they don't have access to) and the workshop in the basement (also no dog access due to cat box being in there). So I don't know if that can be it or not...the 'relaxing' areas are pretty much the same as always.

Jack has been with us since November of '09, a little over a year. Once he learned how to do the stairs, he joined us every evening in our basement family room. All the dogs have a bed there, and they would all come down with us every evening. In the past couple of weeks, though, Jack will not come downstairs. If he does happen to come down, he is clearly uneasy, and runs back upstairs within minutes--usually he won't even lie down at all, sometimes he'll settle onto his bed but within a few minutes, gets up and run upstairs. If one of us goes upstairs to see what he's doing, he's either in the family room upstairs, in our bedroom on his bed, or in the hallway. If we try and get him to come downstairs, he gets rather stressed out and won't do it. Also, Ruby has trained her daddy to pass out treats downstairs, as soon as he comes home from work. Jack was going down there for the daily treat, too, until a couple of weeks ago. He won't even go down for the treat now! This is very odd. Any ideas?

Someone from GT sent this to me a long time ago: How to check a Dog. This is in order. Use for pin pointing where pain is coming from and in some cases you will be able to fix an injury yourself. 1) Make sure dog is standing straight and has equal weight on all legs. 2) Straddle the dog, your legs should be just behind the dogs front shoulder/ legs. 3) Best to have dog muzzled. Plus have a little treat they like. 4) Gently with right hand, open palm, place on left hand side of dogs mouth and gently bring head round to dogs right hand shoulder. This can also be done using a treat in front of the dogs nose and moving treat to the shoulder, the dogs nose should follow. The dogs nose should be able to touch shoulder. 5) Repeat for left hand side. If there is any hesitation or stiffness or refusal you may have a neck problem. 6) Place open palm over dogs nose and gently push dogs nose to under chest. A treat for the nose to follow should have the same effect. Dogs nose should be able to go just between front legs or to the chest is ok too. 7) Slowly bring dogs nose back up towards the ceiling. If there is hesitation, stiffness or refusal you may have a neck problem. 8)While still standing over the dog. Cup the elbow in your palm and push out so the leg is straight - opposite leg may come off the ground. Dogs ears should also be able to be placed in align with outstretched leg. Place your hand on dogs head and gently push down til the ears are level with leg. 9) Repeat for other side. 10) Place palm of hand in V of the dogs outside elbow. Bring dogs leg back towards you, elbow should move freely up - not to far - you are just checking range of movement with this check. Now for the Back. Make sure the dog is standing straight. Not turned to one side. 11) With thumbs, find either side of the spinal column, Push down to find ligament/muscle (this will take a little force/pressure) With thumbs move down the spinal column - do not drag but rather find each individual disc/ gap and press down. All the way to the base of tail. If there is twitching of muscle or head turning or a yelp, try and find the exact spot where the discomfort is. If it is around the neck area that requires a chiropractor. If it is anywhere from behind the saddle section to the base of the tail that too requires a chiro. In these cases the dog needs to be lifted and twisted to get the disc back into place. Only experienced people should do this. If the discomfort is from the shoulder blades to the end of the saddle you can have a go at it yourself. It does require confidence and precision. With the hard area of your palm ( the area where the thumb muscle attaches to the hand) Place both hands along each side of the spinal column so your fingers are pointing outwards and your palms are on the raised muscles on either side of the spine. Make sure your hands are level with each other. Then give a short sharp push. It is similar to using a drain plunger with the amount of pressure needed. Dog may give a small yelp(dont worry) You should feel or hear a click - this will be the disc sliding back into place. Might take a couple of goes to get it in. Your dog may have a good body shake right through to the tail. Generally this is a good sign the disc went back in. Re-check the whole back again using thumbs. Now that the back is in or if the back was ok continue on to check the legs. To Check Back legs. 12) Stand to side of dog(its ok if the dog leans on you). Take dogs knee bring it up slightly and push leg back behind dog - it may go out to the side slightly before going back. Technically your dog should be able to hold his weight on that leg that you are holding so don't worry if the other leg is off the ground. 13) Repeat for opposite leg. If the dog is uncomfortable with the leg going back you may have a problem with -a) small muscle tear in the groin area. Hip problem. c) whip muscle or hip support muscle problem. To check for muscle tears or muscle soreness- large muscle areas - use your forefinger and middle finger to move around the muscle in a circular motion( with a small amount of pressure) to try and pinpoint the exact part causing the pain. To check for areas that you can get to both sides of eg. whip muscle, large back muscle. You place your forefinger and middle finger on one side of the muscle and your thumb on the other and gently work your way down the muscle - then back up to the top move along slightly and repeat. If you can pinpoint where the pain is coming from that is your area to work on - TIP- If you have a hand held massager you use on yourself then this is perfect for the dogs as well - if it has a heat setting even better. Remember to keep the massager moving in a circular motion, and make sure it doesn't get too hot for the dog. If the pain is coming from an outside muscle such as a hip support or the main back muscle you can massage some liniment into the area. This will help the same as it would for you if you have a sore muscle. It will also stimulate blood flow to the area which will aid in faster healing. For the front legs. 14) Straddle the dog and reach down to the front foot of the dog. Bend the wrist so the toes are touching the back of the front leg or close to. 15) With the wrist in normal position gently turn to either side (rotating the wrist). 16) Check inside the stopper hole - you do not have to be straddling to dog to do this. Take foot off the ground and place finger(no fingernails here please) and with a little downward push with your forefinger poke in the hole. Run 2 fingers up either side of the ligament which connects to the actual stopper pad, check movement for discomfort. To treat stopper and wrist injuries the easiest is to soak a bandage in Epsom salts and warm water then wrap around wrist. If there is also pain in the stopper hole you can soak some cotton balls in the same mixture and place into hole before wrapping with bandage. Repeat this 2-3 a day and if you can soak a second bandage in preparation for use later that would be great. Remove first bandage rinse and place on second bandage - then soak first bandage for use later. The longer the soak the better. If the wrist is not supple and will not bend easily it could be a number of problems. Stopper tendon injury, ligament damage, broken bone, joint stiffness possible arthritis. You all know the products you can use for joint problems - you can also use celery seed capsules that you take for yourself (human vitamin supplement). It will take a few weeks to notice a difference( same as any preparation) Remember some joint formulas work for some dogs and some don't - It takes a bit of time to find which is the best for your dog. TOES 17) Check each toe individually by moving each toe up and down and side to side to check for range of movement. Check quiks to see if there is any dirt or sand wedged in them. For blisters from the toenail beside that has been rubbing, clean and dab with betadine or similar then file any rough edges of offending toe and tape. For taping you can cut up a material bandaid if you like into a small strip to wrap around end of toenail - this can stay on for weeks. If its a serial offending toe you may need to keep it wrapped permanently. Always make sure the toes is trimmed without any rough edges. For toe dislocation - depending on the severity you can pop them back in yourself. You use the same amount of pressure as you would popping your own finger back into place. You do it quickly and with confidence - trying to be gentle will only add to the pain. You must do it in one quick motion - its going to hurt ( it hurts us so your dog is not different) but its better to get it back in sooner rather than later. If it is a severe dislocation a vet trip is in order. If you can get the dislocation back in yourself, wrap or tape toes together to keep them stable and this will give the tendons time to heal. REMEMBER THIS IS ONLY A GUIDE TO CHECK WHERE PAIN IS COMING FROM AND SOME TIPS FOR MINOR PROBLEMS. IT IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR VETERINARY SERVICES.