KickReturn

We rarely use a leash regardless of the situation. I see the whole thing as very simple. It all comes down to what motivates the dog and the character of the dog. If the dog would rather be beside you then 100 yards away then you have a chance. If the dog is just as happy wandering off in the opposite direction than I wouldn't risk it. Take the dog to a fully enclosed area. Let it go and walk away. Does it follow you? When it runs, does it run around you or at you? Introduce other dogs. After checking them out does your dog come back to you? These are good signs. Good recall is nice to have but it is not enough to keep a dog safe. I feel safer with a dog that has a natural tendency to make the right decisions. And before letting the dog go in an unfenced area the assumption is that the location is safe from traffic and dangerous terrain, and that you have spent a great deal of time bonding with your dog on long walks in many different locations (this can take months, maybe years). And under all circumstances, anytime any dog is off leash there is a risk that it could end in tragedy. I have made the conscious choice that the risk is worth giving my dog greater freedom. If you can't accept this risk as a reality then don't do it. I have posted these videos before on this forum. This is what I mean by the right character. The behaviours exhibited are in no way trained. "They are natural". In fact we don't do any training at all. My dog has never heard the word "heel" despite the video titles. This is just what he does. https://youtu.be/u7PVpaplIfI https://youtu.be/txIBV957OQU

One tactic that I have used successfully is to run. It is a bit of a pull at first but the dog will have to move its feet to keep its balance. Once the feet start moving I just up the pace. When I stop running they always seem happy to walk. This is obviously not for everybody or even every dog, but it has never failed me. I think when a greyhound sees their human running, something changes in their mindset. They become more excited and less fearful. Good luck and patience.

2. The small dog thing sounds like he is desperate to interact with other dogs. Make sure he gets a chance to socialize with other dogs if he enjoys it. Always careful with the small ones. A dog that wants to kill and eat another dog, doesn't usually roo at it first. 3. The following you everywhere will likely slow down but not necessarily. Some will follow you more as their love for you builds. My grey has rarely been in a different room then me in four years. Congratulations - you have a Velcro dog - the best kind IMO. 4. Food motivation can make many basic tasks easier. Don't push the training too fast. And depending on the dog and your situation, training beyond basic recall may not be necessary. Many greys figure out everything they need to know in a matter of time. They follow body language and tone of voice, etc. I have done almost zero training, my dog just cooperates because he understands and is happier that way or likes to please. YMMV.

Is there anyone with a Greyhound near you? The company on another dog is great while learning new things, but another confident Greyhound is even better. If I lived near you, you borrow mine. With another greyhound as company it might be easier to build up Harry's confidence. Remember that it is important for you to convey the utmost confidence and calm when Harry is experiencing new things. Getting him walking would really accelerate things. As mentioned be everyone the vets suggestion re sleeping arrangement was downright silly. I could try to lock mine out of my room at night, but I'd have a hole in my wall and the dog back in my room within an hour.

This is such a dumb debate and most of you don't seem the slightest bit fooled - good. And shame on the veterinary profession for treating people like idiots. It also completely flies in the face of the unparalleled evidence of the long term health and performance of racing greyhounds which in many cases are fed exclusively raw diets. Has there ever been a champion kibble fed greyhound? Can all veterinarians really be this ignorant (or stupid)? This has become an irritating joke. Salmonella can't grow to dangerous levels unless there is an absence of refrigeration. If the raw food is kept frozen and thawed under refrigeration than bacteria will simply not rise to dangerous levels. I always make the assumption that salmonella is present and don't leave anything at room temp. Even at room temperature it takes a while for bacteria level to rise. Dogs are also blessed with the ability to withstand some exposure. I feed raw because kibble, any kibble, makes my Hester fart so badly that he is unsuitable as a household pet. It also results in many massive, moderately soft bowel movements every day, a burden on both Hester and those that must clean up after him. If his digestive system could handle kibble I wouldn't hesitate. I'd save myself a pile of cash and avoid the inconvenience of raw. FWIW I have had serious salmonella poisoning. In France, a sunny day, garden party buffet, and what I thought would be a lovely end to a beautiful meal - a custard of sorts. I though it was a bit warm. Ten days feeling too tired to get out of bed. Low grade fever. Any attempt to eat solid food would result in cramping and diarrhea. Gatorade and similar only. I never felt that bad - just tired, slept all day. I even got out of bed to play a round of golf with my grandfather in the midst of it. Something to be avoided for sure but I the flu is worse.

I have a theory that greyhounds prefer a little elevation in their sleeping arrangements - a vantage point of sorts. I bet if that couch was in your room, he'd be right there. Simple comfort may be a factor. Many greys will simply choose the softest surface they can find.

First, you should be very happy to have adopted a greyhound likes to play with you in this way. It sounds like he has no trust issues with you which is often the hardest part of boding with a new grey. Of course you will have to manage the play so no one gets hurt. As for the energy thing, all the above advice is great but the thing that will bring the best results is to walk at night as you are doing but just much longer. During hot weather we walk an hour at dawn and another hour after sun down. With your dog being so young you may have to walk even longer. For cooling down a, plastic kiddie pool or even the hose. My grey loves to have his feet, legs, and belly gently sprayed after a hot walk.

A whole page of advice and no one says to take the dog for a walk - sigh. Best way to bond and build trust. And if the OP is already walking the dog than how often and how long?

A little better every day for almost 4 years, and still improving. It can take a long time for a dog to completely trust its owner. Give the dog space and time. Going on adventures together was what worked for us. I recommend against hand feeding, it can be stressful for the dog. I tried it and after the fourth peice of meat, my dog refused and tapped his bowl with his snout as if to say "put it in here buddy". Later I learned he was very concerned about having his teeth make contact with me. Treats are fine but a proper meal should be left to the dog. Other dogs may be different.

Nope, sorry. There is a good chance your dog is done with her crate. Be extremely careful about ever leaving her unsupervised in a crate. If she gets upset, get her out of there fast. Even though retired racers spent a good deal of time in crates, many upon retirement will not tolerate a crate. If they panic they can destroy themselves trying to escape. Please be careful.

It's a calming signal. Even though the your dog likes to be petted, he still has to let you know that he comes in peace and means you no harm. A number of greyhounds with which I have very close relationships do this exact same thing despite having known me for years in some cases. My own greyhound yawns almost constantly when we are in physical contact - same thing - another calming signal. If you watch closely you may see you dog use this "licking the lips" technique when meeting other dogs.

This behaviour indicates the making of a tremendous companion. Unfortunately the investment is front end loaded. Hang in there, he will eventually learn that he will not die if you leave him for a while. Sounds identical to what I went through and in fact still go through - my Hester will never accept not being by my side if I am in the same building. What he did learn and what yours will learn is that when you do leave, its better just to give up and go have a nap. To tip the odds in my favour (his favour) I exercised the crap out of him before I ever left him alone and I still do. I have not been to the washroom alone in almost 4 years. Good luck.

Just start running and don't stop. They follow every time - especially when they are tied to you with a a leash. Better yet, put her in your vehicle and drive out to a nice forest with some trails. Do a big circuit and she will have no idea which way is up. Always important to change things up to keep the dogs mind from getting stuck. Tonight we are off to shoreline park and then into a small village for some pizza. Can't beat adventures with your dog.

There are lots of stories of dogs of all breeds with long histories of gentle interaction with all breeds who then seemingly out of the blue, grab a small dog and give it a shake. My thought on this is that the dogs just loose themselves in the moment and see the small fluffy dog as just another toy to be shaken and tossed. Does your dog play with stuffed toys? Maybe white and fluffy was the trigger. If your dog did indeed have high prey drive or was otherwise not small dog safe, you would know by now. The problem you have now is that regardless of your dogs disposition, this behaviour is a known possibility and you must take extra precautions. I don't think you have to muzzle but you must also warn off owners of small dogs and if one approaches off leash be sure to have good control of you dog - be super vigilant. Your dog might also be a candidate for counter conditioning. I have recently been with a grey that was not small dog safe. There is no mistaking the behaviour - super intense focus/staring, silence, tense body, very very difficult to distract or divert.

I vote for too heavy. Try working him toward just a few pounds above his racing weight and see how he looks and feels. Some retirees are best at or close to racing weight. In general, retired greys are all so well cared for that a "reserve" in case of illness etc. is not really necessary IMO. I take the approach that lighter (within reason) is always better then heavier. Same for people too.

I second the no reprimand. Just let other dog owners know even before it happens that your dog is still learning about other breeds and will likely growl but that she is not dangerous. In time with the accumulation of positive interactions with other dogs she will likely stop growling. Some greys do continue to growl throughout their lives. I have one such grey. He will give a little rumble when other large males approach. Dogs that do not respond with the appropriate signals are met with a full display of noise and teeth. This too is acceptable as long as there is never contact. We have never had an escalation beyond this growly display in literally thousands of greetings so the dogs must know exactly what they are doing. Just re-assure other dog owners that there is no danger ( I assume this is the case with your dog). I have yet to encounter another dog owner who has taken exception to my dogs assertive ways and a few owners of unruly puppies have made a point of bringing their young ones over for a "lesson".

Wow, 5:00 AM to feed her and get yourself to work. You obviously start early. You have to keep in mind that many Greyhounds would never be happy without a substantial morning walk before being left alone. If your dog is less then 7 or 8 years old then you may have a real problem with this. Adoption agencies that advertise greyhounds as couch potatoes do a disservice to the breed. Just because they are calmer then other breeds when in the home does not mean that are happy without exercise. There may be exceptions but I doubt your dog is one.

Mine won't pee in our yard unless another dog is present, so lots of walking. Yours is telling you it prefers to go for a walk, so why not? I see you are in Quebec - Montreal? Quebec City? So many beautiful places to walk your dog. Winters can be tough but the weather is good now so get out there, even at night if you have to. If you have to do a turnout for whatever reason, try sticking the branch of a tree upright into the grass.

This is great news. Hopefully she is on her way. Don't feel bad if there are setbacks. I will re-state the obvious - the more walking you can give her before you leave her the better (hanging out in your yard doesn't count.) The mental and physical stimulation of an adventurous walk tires and relaxes the dog and sets her up for success. She will learn from her own relaxation that being left alone is not a bad thing.

Some greyhounds simply cannot be crated. Remember at the track she was crated with other dogs all around her - crated alone is very different. You risk serious permanent injury to this particular dog if you crate her. She could even destroy her teeth trying to get out. Did you film her in the crate when you were gone? She was probably in a full state of panic. Use the muzzle, dog proof the house as best you can, and work toward giving her the run of the place. The less confined our dog was, the less separation anxiety he exhibited. Some greys are just this way. And yet another behaviour related post with no information of how many hours the dog was walked before being left alone in a crate. The age of the dog is also relevant.

Yep, this is what we get. Ridiculous "alpha" type behavours. Most other dogs get ignored but with large males it can get super intense. I use to intervene but I've come to respect Hester's decision making when it comes to dealing with other dogs. This is actually pretty good. We don't get any playing. The marking is unbelievable. Even experienced dog owners marvel at the capacity of Hester's bladder. Being safe off leash has helped. Hester can pee all he wants and I just keep walking. Eventually he'll catch up. You don't want to be more "alpha" with your dog. It wouldn't change a thing. No way I would ever think of taking a firmer approach to caring for Hester. He clearly is the alpha of all, including me. I am just grateful he lets me come on his adventures.

Glad to hear about the dry kennel. It is always nice to see how your dog does when they are thoroughly exercised. I know for many people it is very difficult to give their dog the proper amount of walking when they are rushing off to work. It takes real discipline to get up an hour or two early and go for a serious hike with the dog. And in the winter...in MN... that is very tough if not impossible. But if it helps do everything you can. I am not in favour of running with Greyhounds. I think they benefit more from a long walk with tons of sniffing. It serves the body and mind better IMO. If you have a spot where your grey can blast around at full tilt as part of a walk, that's a bonus. I have a very content grey, but even so he is happier with 3 hours of walking per day then just two. For the winter you may need booties, a head cover and for a coat I recommend the Great White North by Chilly Dogs.

Sorry no advice but a friend has a chihuahua that will attack passing motorcycles.

Yes. Another behviour post with no mention of exercise. That has to be the starting point. Without waiting for the answer, keep in mind this is a dog that is not yet 3. It is not inconceivable that serveral hours of activity are needed over the course of a day. That said, this dog may be one of those that requires the presence of another greyhound. The OP seems to have tried most things, and enough time has passed that improvement should be seen at this point.

I think it's better to work with alone. That way you eliminate one of the variables (the behaviour of the other dog) and she has to deal with you. The presence of another dog helps with a spook's sense of security and they can model behaviour, but it also prevents the spook from exploring their own confidence and could interfer with bonding with the human. The second dog can become a crutch. My view: the fact that when she has the space, she shows no particular urge to get closer to you suggests that she is a leash only dog for the foreseeable future.