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KickReturn

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  1. I had an off-the-charts hi prey grey that would leap, spin, wriggle, etc. to escape. He could get out of most harnesses but not the PetSafe Sure Fit (the big dog):
  2. Can you borrow another Greyhound for a week or two? If you are short on Greyhound experience it might be tough to get someone to let you borrow their's. Perhaps another dog can come with their owner for walk time to help establish desirable behaviors. (I assume Archer is an only dog). I had an Archer once. He was the opposite of yours - a fire breathing dragon would be the best way to describe him.
  3. Yup, some just growl about things to which other would hardly react. When you get to know the dog well you will learn whether it is serious or not. For the time being it is important to remember that a growl is a warning and in certain circumstances can be followed by more dangerous behaviour. I had a growler. He wasn't grumpy, he was't uncomfortable, and he wasn't afraid. He was in charge and he was telling you how it was going to be, and you cooperated or faced an escalation - sure miss him.
  4. So he is doing this when he is left alone in his crate? You need to be very careful. This poor dog may be having a complete melt down panic attack when left alone in the crate. Set up a camera to confirm behaviour. If the dog is freaking out in the crate than you need to try a completely different strategy- something not involving a crate. Remember being alone in a crate in an empty building is completely different than being in a crate at the track surrounded by 20 other greyhounds and also different then being in a crate at the foster home with other dogs around.
  5. In my post above I meant to say that he does not damage any other areas. I'll continue to look at the diet.
  6. He is very easy to redirect. He knows I don't want him to lick and if I make a simple "ssst" type sound he will stop. If I look at him he will stop. When he stop I always give him a hug, a belly rub, and an muzzle scratch as a reward. Kongs and the like don't seem to make a difference. I gave him an extra large Yak cheese chew that kept him busy for over an hour. He went at himself within the next hour. He gets no chicken or grain. I suspect this whole thing may have started when the vet switched him to Purina Pro Plan which was chicken and corn. He didn't lick before that I recall. I recently switched him to Acana Singles Lamb and perhaps his licking is slightly less. This seems to argue against a psychological cause. I really have no idea. I did notice that he didn't touch himself when I have another greyhound here last week. Hmmm? He doesn't seem to be the slightest bit itchy, but he will drill a hole in his leg he gets the chance. The bandaging is a 100% solution. He doesn't touch the bandage or the area around it. And he does damage other areas of himself. I am just worried about an area of his leg being constantly covered. It's about a 3 inch section below the elbow. I should also try the bitter sprays but I would have to be religious about repeat applications.
  7. Just to fine tune the mention above about adequate exercise, I recommend walking. Play is great and some greys will really get into it (others won't at all) but I find walking is the best way for the dog to bond with you and accept you as a replacement for its former track mates. I know it's cold now depending on where you are located, so you will have a tough stretch. But once the weather moderates and with a proper coat on her, walk her as much as she will accept. If you can find green spaces with trails all the better. Walk, walk, walk! Remember, your dog may not know how to walk like this so watch her carefully and build up your walking as much as you can. At first she may seem a bit bored, almost stunned, but with time you will notice how she learns to sniff and explore and becomes thrilled with all the things she sees, smells, and hears. Your dogs issues may have other causes and solutions but if you max out the exercise side of things, you really tilt the odds of speedy improvement in your favour.
  8. At wits end. Tried apoquel, no change in behaviour. If I bandage the area he won't touch it which tells me that the area is not itchy or uncomfortable. I can get the area completely healed by keeping a bandage on but within a day or two of taking of the bandage he will lick the spot until it is bleeding. Can I keep a bandage on the leg for the rest of his life? That seems a ridiculous notion and yet it is better than a hole in his leg. The circumstances make me think this problem is likely psychological. Could the boy be anxious or upset in some way but keep his feelings internal with his outlet being the licking? I can detect no signs of anxiety. Honor is a very stable, socially outgoing dog. I have tried to analyze our relationship but I can't find an issue. I use an extremely gentle approach. Honor has never heard raised voices, never heard the word no, received no corrections (mostly because his behaviour is impeccable), he loves to please, and is not aloof. He is a super easy, happy dog. I can see that he is sensitive but we interact in a way so that he never has cause to fear me. He is a velcro dog but not quite as extreme as Hester was. Occasionally he will even choose to be in a room where I am not - a novelty for me.
  9. I will emphasize what is mentioned above - never correct or scold for growling or snapping. Instead eliminate the cause. If you stifle these expressions of distress you will have no way of knowing when your greyhound is under stress - this is a recipe for a surprise bite. And that sorry look when you do scold - that is fear, not what you want at all. The muzzle licking is your heeler/pointer trying to appease and make friends with the greyhound. The bum sniffing should settle down in time, but some greys will feel bothered if their hindquarters get too much attention. I would recommend stepping in and physically interrupting the heeler/pointer if you suspect it is getting too much for the grey. I have always found a gentle touch on the shoulder with my index finger works. Your heeler/pointer sounds like a sweet dog and will comply and move off. You need to become your new greyhounds champion and protector in this new environment. Your existing dog probably just wants to play and this may or may not happen. You need to supervise all interactions very carefully for the time being. Be sure to have lots of beds and safe places where the grey can escape the action. As for growling or snapping at you or other people, please remember that this dog does not know you, and has no reason to trust or respect you. For many greyhounds those things will only come once the owner has demonstrated a long track record of calm, competent, and confident care. This dog owes you nothing right now - you have to earn it.
  10. If you cannot delay the adoption, I would recommend a home with another very settled confident greyhound that will look after your new dog while you are away. Perhaps this is the foster home or someone else who has a adopted from the group. Greyhound owners that travel should have reciprocal arrangements with other similar owners. I would not leave a new dog with a "sitter" unless that sitter was a greyhound expert.
  11. I have seen this in a mature dog. A super sweet little black girl that I care for occasionally shows affection by giving a "hip check" to those for which she feels affection. She will leap a bit at the same time and try to press her hind quarters against you. I thought the behaviour was unique.
  12. Having luck with the taping job so far. Honor didn't touch it all day. I have a trick. I place a non-stick gauze on the damaged area and wrap the leg very carefully with Rock Tape. Rock Tape is a brand of kinesiology/sports tape. It is super flexible and very sticky. Even if he messes with it a bit, it would take a serious effort to remove. The thing to remember with such highly elastic bandaging is that each layer adds additional pressure. You must be careful to avoid too much pressure that could affect circulation.
  13. Thanks for the info everyone. When I left for two hours today I gave a peanut butter filled Kong to "get his licking out". And then tonight he licked his leg until he was bleeding. He is all taped up now. We'll just have to see if he goes at the bandage. FWIW he knows I don't want him to lick the bad spot. He waits till I am out of sight. The Apoquel sounds like a good tip, allergies are always a possibility. A trip to the vet is probably in order. I really don't think this relates in anyway to anxiety. This is a super happy, content dog. He spends most of his day sprawled on one of his 8 beds, half asleep, puffing his cheeks.
  14. Our 8 year old boy Honor grooms himself like a cat. He will patiently lick most of his body with a focus on his legs and feet, but also shoulders and haunches. Interestingly, he rarely licks his private parts. The problem is that every few weeks he will decide to lick a particular spot on his foreleg near the crook of his elbow until it is raw. Eventually it will heal and a few weeks later he will do it again. I have investigated the spot and there is nothing there. Further, there are no signs of redness, irritation, or any skin anomalies anywhere on his body. He will also lick his various beds, and once I caught him licking the wall. I am wondering if this is a psychological problem. Perhaps he's bored although he gets abundant exercise, and I am home with him a good portion of the time. He doesn't show the slightest trace of anxiety so I am at a loss. Honor seems in perfect heath. Decent nutrition (Purina Pro Plan Gastroenteric), He never appears to be itchy and only occasionally will do a hind leg chin scratch. He doesn't have the slightest trace of dandruff and he has the shortest, finest, most velvety fur of any grey, including females, that I have even met. Any ideas or tips to stop this behaviour. The elbow area is near impossible to bandage and he'd probably tear anything off and do more damage to himself anyway.
  15. Too soon. Everything is too soon. You don't know her and she doesn't know or trust you yet. If you possibly can, get her off your bed and into her own super comfy bed on the floor beside you. I'll grant you that the behaviour is a bit different, growling while seemingly content and comfortable, but I would still read it as her being a little concerned about her safety and vulnerability and offering some defensive warnings. That is the safe way to view things. I would also view the growling as a window into her deeper feelings and act accordingly. Even though she seems perfectly amenable in all sorts of situations, I would highly recommend that you treat her with the utmost respect regarding how you approach her, touch her, etc. particularly when she is lying down. It is the very least that she deserves. In time she will let you know when and if she is ready for more liberal physical interaction.
  16. I wish only to emphasize a single point. Please do not crate this dog again. A dog in a crate surrounded by other dogs (as at track, foster home, etc) is entirely different that a dog in a crate alone. The most likely outcome is that your dog will permanently damage his teeth or cause himself some other serious injury is you crate him again. A lack of crate is not the problem, and the use of the crate is not the solution. He is anxious. 8 hours is a long time for a dog to be alone that has never been alone before.
  17. I have had a few experiences both indoors and outside where a grey has decided to run in the wrong place. You can usually tell they are going to cut loose before it happens by the look in their eye - sort of an intense unfocused stare with a play bow. My response has been to run like mad to get the dog to chase me toward a safe area. Indoors it has just meant running into my yard. You have to size up the situation. I would be very nervous about a large male running hard indoors. If traction is good everywhere (carpet) you might be OK. And if the dog is the sort that is "careful" to hold something back, you might also be OK. Otherwise serious injury is a real possibility. Obviously the more you can drain the dogs energy outside, the better. The problem is that for some dogs walking just isn't good enough, they need to run. For many, a hard run once a week will take care of this.
  18. It is very good advice to never approach your new greyhound when she is lying down or sleeping. Don't go anywhere near her, just don't do it. Particularly with a greyhound that is demonstrating the behaviour that your's has demonstrated. My comments above about a greyhound's interpretation of your actions hold true. Further you have no idea of what message your body language is sending. An animal that is lying down is very vulnerable and can reasonably be expected to protect itself. Once she is on her feet the dynamic is totally different, although a calm, steady, and respectful demeanor on your part is still required. Most likely, once your greyhound comes to believe that you will not kill and eat her, she may no longer have defensive reactions when she is lying down. However this is still not a license to treat her with disrespect. I have had three greyhounds and cared for several others and I have never once stood over or touched a sleeping dog. Any time I have approached them when they are lying down I have done so by crawling along the ground and getting their full attention before I move close or touch them. It is simply a safer practice and I also believe it affords them the respect they deserve. Most greyhounds would rather die then harm a human and perhaps in time your's may prove to be this type. But until this is certain, and it may never be with some dogs, err on the side of caution. Right now your job is to be a protector, waiter, and exerciser. The rewards of a bonded relationship are at least some months in the future. As a side note, if the adoption group told you something about your dog being a couch potato, don't believe it. Talking her for substantial walks at least twice a day is the best way to build a deep bond. good luck.
  19. Was thinking more about this last night. Couldn't get the situation out of my mind. Perhaps the OP has done zero research on greyhounds and has no idea that these dogs go their entire lives without ever having the experience of a human approaching them or standing over them when they are on their beds/sleeping. And until the greyhound learns otherwise, there is no reason why it should not think that this human behaviour is the prelude to being attacked, killed, and eaten by the human. And even if this is not the dogs exact sense of the situation, it is how the human needs to view it and act accordingly. Seeing as what this means doesn't seem to be understood, I'll spell it out: DO NOT GO ANYWHERE NEAR YOUR GREYHOUND WHEN IT IS LYING DOWN ON ITS BED. I just saved you from being bitten - you're welcome. If you want your dog off its bed, call it from a distance and reward it when it comes to you. Presto, now your working on recall. Now about this raw bone, why, oh why would anyone give a raw bone to a new dog only to take it away again? And this after the advice above about "fast eating" treats. For raw bones give something the dog can completely consume. Turkey necks are best. Call the dog into your yard, place the turkey neck on the ground and then go back in the house. Do not go near the dog or enter the yard until the dog is finished which will take at most 10 minutes. There should be no other dogs in the vicinity. In this particular case, I would recommend not even looking at the dog. Sorry about my tone - consider it tough love.
  20. OK, so there is this whole thread about being careful with greyhounds, especially when they are lying down/sleeping etc., and the response is to move the bed while she is sleeping on it? Somewhere there is an emoticon with a face palm.
  21. I will double down on the crate issue. My vote would be to get rid of the crate and move the "knick knacks" out of reach. Dog proof the whole place. Lola is telling you the crate causes her stress. As much as she wants to please you it may be too much for her to handle no matter how appealing you make it. And IMO, a dog that breaks out of a crate should never be in one. Second issue. How much does DH walk Lola? If he doesn't, maybe doing so would really change things between them. Indeed it is strange for a dog to get so desperate with a person present.
  22. Does he lay down when he is tired? I ask the question facetiously of course. I assume that what Fred wants to do is run around with other greyhounds. And I don't imagine he will be content and relaxed enough to do much else until he has had his run or something similar. You didn't mention Fred's exercise regimen. That would help. My question really is what are you trying to accomplish? Is there a problem with Fred that needs to be "fixed" with training? FWIW I spent some time with greyhound puppies for the first time in my life. Two 6 month old's. WOW. Bless all of you who have cared for greyhound puppies.
  23. I am curious about your view of Honor Shield. I know he ran about 70 races and had some success but to watch him run now, he is hopeless. I have never seen a retired greyhound with a respectable record that is so inept. He is clumsy, slow, and has zero chase drive. He can barely manage stairs and has tried to jump into closed vehicles. He is also oddly built with a chest a deep as any AKC greyhound. FWIW he is an absolute dream of a dog - affectionate, polite, gentle to a fault, and impeccably well behaved. Wicked good looking too. I just can't imagine him at the track.
  24. Hmmm... I dream about the day when my boy will rear up on his hind legs and leap on me. I would love that. Alas, he is too polite. It sounds like you are already making progress. A word of caution though about the swatting with the front legs. I care for a charming female for several weeks every year when her owners are on vacation, and she goes insane when she sees me. She will swat at me with her front paws and try to grab me for a hug with her front legs. Just be careful as you can get seriously speared by greyhound nails. Contact will always be somewhere around waist level if you know what I mean.
  25. Please remember that you have a very proud, fully mature animal in your midst. She has no reason to trust you. She knows what makes her feel uncomfortable and you don't. Try trusting her and you may find she will ultimately trust you. Don't ever feel bad when she growls at you or feel disappointed that she is somehow not a "good" dog. Instead feel special that you are a among a small group of people that have the privilege to be with such an extraordinary independent creature and celebrate her ability to "speak" for herself, something she has had to do from the time she was separated from her dam. The bond will grow but it will take time. Two weeks is the blink of an eye. Believe that this story has a happy ending. I had the incredible privilege to have a spectacular and impeccably well behaved greyhound live in my home for the last 6 years of his life. He growled at me occasionally for the first year and at various family members for almost two. And I always marveled at his character when he growled, that he had the courage of his convictions about how things should be at any given moment. I rewarded the behaviour with a quick "good boy" and backed away. And he did not become a demon dog and take over the house. On the contrary he was a dog that never ever required a correction. You asked about walking. My advice would be lots of walks, as much as she will accept. It can greatly contribute to the dogs contentment and is the best way to bond. Don't be in a rush, it does not need to be a hard ass military march. Greyhounds respond best to a gentle touch. Take time to sniff and explore. If she is like most greys her leash manners will be excellent in no time. As for keeping her off furniture (if that is what you want), there are some tried and true techniques which others will be better able to describe.
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