3greytjoys

Below is a good article on pet food safety which recommends discarding wet food after 2-4 hours. http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=649

OMG!!! I'm just seeing this... Poor Melody and poor you for having the deal with this alone!! Sounds like you did a great job (as always) of staying calm and collected. I'm so relieved that Melody is expected to be okay. I would not have had a clue how MUCH blood was pooled without that picture!!! Goodness, you don't need any more sick hounds or emergencies for a very l.o.n.g time... You've had waaay more than your share recently! Your baby will be fortunate to have such a knowledgeable and well-equipped mother. (I know human children are very different, but many hound parenting similarities!) Prayers for your Melody to recover quickly, and eat well again soon. Please keep us posted. (BTW, I worry about the GSOD from one of my hounds who jumps up screaming perioodically. The vet, nor I, have been able to determine a cause yet. Please let us know if a cause is discovered for Melody.)

I think people leash walk their hounds for different reasons. Some hounds get a lot of play time and running exercise in their own large, fenced yards. Those hounds may not need much more than a meandering sniffing fest. Some geriatric hounds may have health restrictions preventing heavy exercise, but still need to keep up healthy blood flow. We leash walk hounds for healthy exercise. Just like people need to raise heart rates during exercise, most dogs do too. We have a number of particular dog-friendly stopping points for relaxed sniffing and business, but when we're moving we're walking at a healthy, rapid pace. Of course, we pick-up after our hounds, but we try to avoid stopping on people's nice lawns. (If it were left up to the hounds, they would be sniffing and marking every single tree and every yard.) They greatly enjoy the healthy exercise, brain stimulation, and it helps them rest well later.

Please be careful if sharing meat with dogs that was cooked for human consumption. Plain meat is best. Do not feed dogs meat that has been cooked with onions, garlic, chives, other spices, butter or fat. Please AVOID giving hounds turkey/chicken skin, fatty meat drippings, and cooked bones (as mentioned above). Fatty foods can cause Pancreatitis (deadly). A Few Toxins: Onions and onion powder are toxic to dogs. Garlic (less toxic but it is a blood toxin.) Mushrooms - Please keep your yard cleared of mushrooms, before your dog finds them first. Below are several good links to common poisons: (The first link includes holiday items.) A Poison Safe Home - Foods, Plants, Household Poisons: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/a-poison-safe-home.aspx Toxic Foods to Pets: http://www.humanesoc...us_to_pets.html Toxic Foods and Plants: http://www.healthype...e4-af262ec76c7c

I second the suggestion for a vet visit. I assume you were at work today, so it's possible he may have been coughing without anyone hearing him. Hopefully, Gary will be fine, but I know of a hound that died from ingesting a sock which caused an internal blockage. When you have time, please let us know how Gary is doing.

Per Lunabelle: Luna was indeed contented in her life... --- We can see from your pictures of Luna that she was indeed a very special girl. She looked like an angel while on earth. I have no doubt she will be an angel for others now. Godspeed your sweet Luna girl... It is with tears flowing, that I extend my sympathy for this painful loss. Mary - You and your husband, and Whippets are in our continued thoughts and prayers.

Luna is stunningly beautiful. Thank you for sharing that special photo with us. Oh Mary, I'm so very sorry. Prayers of strength for you all during this most difficult time. Luna you, and your husband will be in our caring thoughts on Wednesday.

Gerber baby food, Meat only, Stage 2 (blue label) is good option to try for dogs (or cats) who won't eat other foods. I confirmed with Gerber manufacturer that they do not add any extra spices to Gerber, Stage 2 meat only foods. This food is often vet recommended. Side note: Be careful with any other baby foods: No toxic spices, especially no onions or garlic for dogs. (Personally, I would steer clear of feeding raw, especially not chicken feet. That could create the reverse effect on a hound's system who doesn't normally eat raw meat, creating more stomach upset and diarrhea.)

"Whole Dog Journal" published an interesting article (June, 2011): "Causes of Death". Data from a 20-year study (1984-2004) of 74,566 dogs, by University of Georgia. It charted the leading 3 causes of death in all different breeds. Of course, cancers were very high in most breeds. WDJ's top point in the "Prevention Strategy" section of this article: Quote: " First, and foremost, keep your dog lean! " "Overweight dogs are more likely to develop musculoskeletal problems, disc disease, diabetes, heart disease, and some forms of cancer." -End Quote- www.wholedogjournal.com One of our Greyhounds' littermates died from osteo. at 7 years old. Ever since, we have worried about losing our hound to osteo. In retrospect, we should have released that worry and just enjoyed "living" with her. To our surprise, three years later, she's still alive and no osteo! Two unrelated cancers have been seen in her senior family, but none are the same type of cancer. (Both other types may have been sun induced.) Personally, I wouldn't let ancestors' health affect my decision to adopt a particular Greyhound, especially not if a particular hound's traits fit my family well. As with any living being, we live today and treasure every fleeting moment together whether one day, one year, or many years. Recently, I enjoyed one of those treasured moments when one of our hounds crawled all the way up on my lap just to snuggle for the longest time. Our hearts were so happy... We wouldn't trade this hound for the world. (This was very rare around here because our hounds don't get on "furniture".)

"Vitality" Chicken and Rice, made by Dogswell. (Orange, white with yellow bag) This food is listed in Whole Dog Journal's annual list of approved foods ("WDJ's Approved Dry Foods"), and is the only food sold at Costco that has made their list. Not sure if all Costco's carry it yet. If you don't see it at your local Costco, you could ask them to stock it.

Greyhounds are sighthounds that have been bred for thousands of years to hunt with great speed, attack and take down game: deer, coyote, wolves, etc. They are not limited to hare, small rabbits, etc. Most humans can't run 45 miles per hour to attempt to stop one dog from nailing another dog in a dog park. (This includes the reverse scenario of trying to save the "only muzzled dog" in a dog park from a dog pack, or an individual dog attacking a muzzled hound.) Greyhounds have tunnel vision when fixed on their prey target. It would be a rare Greyhound who could be recalled in the high adrenaline competition in a dog park. Greyhounds are sprinters. A race lasts approximately 30 seconds. They do not need excessive running time in a dog park. They do very well taking brisk leashed walks (and/or a brief romp in their own fenced yard) without risking other people's dogs. Like most other posters, I have many stories I could share about dog park incidents; dogs seriously injured, or killed, dogs forming pack attacks on other dogs, dogs bumping into adult size humans causing serious permanent injuries requiring surgery with long-term hospital care, dog injuries requiring thousands of dollars in veterinary surgery bills, etc. but I will save my effort. Most dog parks have rules posted. BTW, dog parks are breeding grounds for bacteria, virus, parasites, worms, etc. Many vets recommend washing dogs' paws thoroughly after visiting a dog park. As others mentioned, please consider asking your adoption group if they have "muzzled Greyhound only" play dates where all Greyhounds are muzzled. Those gatherings are much safer for the thin-skinned Greyhound breed.

Nothing else is different? Could Bernie be adjusting to Justin's home schedule, and the inconsistency is a challenge for him? When Justin is home, is Bernie shadowing Justin's every move or is Bernie baby-gated in another area part of that time? Whether Bernie's recent slide a result from less medication, medical problem or environment, it seems something raised Bernie's discomfort level (could have been the flat tire day). I agree with others, I'd have him vet checked, discuss increasing the Clomipramine dose again, and refresh alone training until calm is renewed in Bernie's life again. I imagine you're already aware that a highly anxious dog often can't physically hold urine and bowel, even though they want to wait for someone to come home to let them outside. Compounding this difficulty, if a dog is reprimanded for potty accident/s (or feels negative vibes from humans later), it can magnify and snowball the dog's reactive anxious state for a long time. 10 hours to wait to eliminate is a long time. A few of our hounds would have trouble waiting that long even overnight while sleeping. Is there anyone who could let him out at least once at the 4-5 hour mark? (Our group requires hounds have access to outside potty breaks at least every 4 hours during the day.) Like with people, holding urine too long can contribute to serious kidney damage. (At the very least, bladder and/or kidney infections, stones, etc.) BTW, I'm not sure if Bernie eliminates in the same places when he can't wait, but I found a disposable make-shift floor protector that helps. Costco discards large, double-thick cardboard divider sheets in their box bins for customers to use. The double thick dividers are used between stacks of cereal boxes, etc. These dividers can help absorb urine (and are less appealing for dogs to chew than puppy pads). They're good to use under crates and ex-pens to help protect floor or carpet (although, our S.A. girl can't tolerate crates at all). Just a mention re: water bowl spillage. We bought a stainless steel bucket. It's about 10" high, and we only fill it 1/3 to 1/2 full. Sloppy doggie tongues keep nearly all splash inside the bucket. Stainless steel is more expensive, but will last forever and is much safer for dogs' water than plastic. (Plastics can emit harmful chemicals in water (or kibble).) Our stainless steel bucket is placed in an attractive basket which gives it additional height. (Just to be clear, I'm not suggesting that Bernie have any more water before you leave for work. This just helps the floors stay dry.) Good luck, and hopefully this little back slide is temporary and Bernie will relax again soon.

I'm so very sorry about your heart-breaking loss of your special Stella. My heart aches for you both, and your hound family. You all did everything you could for your sweet Stella girl. What a tough, tough time these recent weeks have been for you. Sending you all thoughts of strength to help you through this difficult time. Beautiful Stella, forever rest in peace...

These soft, durable toys (with multi-squeakers) are favorites for our hounds/fosters/visitors). Tuffie toys (including their squeakers) last for years around here, even with younger and more active chewer hounds. We started buying them because of a young major toy destroyer; plus, we didn't want soft toys that resembled kitties. http://www.tuffietoy...m/ultimate-ring

Positive thoughts for a successful surgery, and rapid recovery as a happy and active tripod. If you haven't already requested it, please consider asking your vet to have a prescription called in to a "compounding pharmacy" for Aminocaproic Acid for you to give at home for 5 days. Liquid form is cheapest and can be flavored so hounds like it (beef). Cost in our area is about $25.00 to $35.00 (west coast). If available, vets can administer it on surgery day by injection too. Even if pharmacy doesn't have it in stock, it can still be worth getting soon after, it even if a day or so later. "Bone Cancer in Greyhounds" (from Ohio State University) Specific Aminocaproic Acid prescription dosage: Page: Three Paragraph: One http://vet.osu.edu/assets/pdf/hospital/bloodBank/wellness/research/BoneCancerinGreyhounds.pdf(If link doesn't work, copy and paste into your browser.) Pinky will be in our most positive thoughts tomorrow.

Below are suggestions (for owners, and ideas to discuss with veterinarians) that I've learned from Greyhound veterinary experts across the country that might help reduce risk for hounds who experience rare hyperthermia episode(s). This focus is primarily for "non-malignant hyperthermia" (stress related anesthetic hyperthermia) vs. the very, very rare genetic malignant hyperthermia. (MH is even more rare and unlikely to be seen in Greyhounds that have made it through even one spay/neuter surgery and into an adoptive home.) Things that Greyhound owners can do: Schedule vet appt. (or drop off) as close to actual surgery prep. time as possible. (This reduces time for hound's stress level to build up while waiting in a hospital kennel before surgery.) If you don't have a digital thermometer, ask vet/vet tech for a recommendation, buy one. Label it: "Dog use only." At the very least, pay attention and "feel" your hound's "normal" (relaxed) temperature for a few days before your hound's surgery appt. We can help our hound/s stay calm and relaxed by doing the same ourselves before/while driving hound to vet hospital for appointment. (We know our hounds are very sensitive and pick up on our moods.) Stay "on-call" ready to pick up hound as soon as the vet is comfortable allowing your dog to go home. Remember after any surgery to take hound outside vet's office to urinate before getting inside your car. Once home, take your hound's temperature (if you can do so safely with hound muzzled). At very least, "feel" hound's body temperature frequently during recovery for 2-3 days (until you're sure hound is not having any lingering reaction to anesthetic). Greyhound's normal temperature: 101 to 102 degrees. (May be lower in certain cases, cold weather, etc.) If temperature begins to rise during recovery, contact vet immediately. Hound may need to be rushed to vet pronto! A hound's temperature can rise to a dangerous level very rapidly. (One of the vets might chime in with "emergency" temperature, but I believe the dog should already be in the vet's office if temperature is 104 degrees.) --- Things to discuss with your veterinarian (in advance, that might help reduce risk of hyperthermia before it escalates): Important: Monitor hound's temperature very closely before, during and after any anesthetic surgery. (Meaning: During surgery, have temperature monitored as constantly as possible, seconds/minute. Early temperature detection is essential to saving the hound.) When preparing for surgery on any Greyhound, have a large, clean bucket of ICE water safely near the operating table with towels soaking in ice water. If a hound's temp even begins to rise slightly, ice water soaked towels can be placed on dog immediately while dog is on the operating table. (Very limited emergency option: If winter snow is available outside vet hospital, hound could be placed in snow bank.) (It's my understanding that vets routinely give IV fluid line(s), respiratory and cooling support, can readily stop administering gas anesthesia in an emergency, and have medical drug interventions to help keep temperature under control.) If your vet doesn't already do this, ask for your hound's temperature to be taken (and reported to you) immediately before hound leaves the vet's office with you to return home.

Heather, I just ran across a feeding blurb on Dr. Suzanne Stack's site (while researching a different medical issue) that may or may not help Stella. Might be worth a try if the new meds don't improve her interest. http://www.greythealth.com/tips.html (Please ignore if this is a duplicate suggestion.)

Plaque begins to harden within 12-24 hours so to stay ahead of it, daily brushing is best. I was taught to brush Greyhounds' teeth a minimum of 10 strokes contacting every tooth (dog toothbrush with pet-safe toothpaste). The outside of the teeth are more important than the inside (I was told the tongue helps inside). Pay special attention to the back molar teeth/gums since that's where the saliva glands are located. Be careful of pressure, like human gums, it is possible to brush too hard which can make the dog's gums recede. Brushing is very quick, only a couple of minutes per dog, and the dogs consider the toothpaste taste like a treat. (Bare minimum, brushing every other day, and on the non-brush day using some type of dental care (like CET Oral Rinse directly on the gums/teeth). Daily pet toothbrushing pays humans back in volumes by helping extend time between professional dental cleanings, extractions, avoiding spreading damaging bacterial disease to internal organs, and reducing number of required anesthesias. I keep hound toothbrushing items in the kitchen, plus a duplicate set in the master bathroom for extra convenience. CET Toothpaste is the best I've ever found. Our hounds' favorite is poultry flavor. (Beef flavor tarter control toothpaste too.) CET products are available for very reasonable prices at www.entirelypets.com

Brushing daily with CET Toothpaste is great. Their best seller flavors: Poultry, Vanilla Mint, Malt. CET Tarter Control Toothpaste: Beef, or seafood. (I like beef better than seafood.) Days that brushing isn't possible, CET Oral Hygiene Rinse is very good. I use this on hounds the week after dentals before their mouths are ready to resume brushing. I use it on back molars of a senior hound who can't tolerate brushing there right now. Helps improve breath too. Aquadent is made with a "small amount of Xylitol". I was told (by the manufacturer) that it's a only a small amount and Xylitol doesn't accumulate/build-up in the pet's body over time. Personally, I'm just not comfortable using it.

California Natural, and Innova have frequent buyer programs. I know it seems expensive, but at least with these foods, people can often feed a reduced quantity (vs. some other foods) since the nutrient density is higher. Not to mention the benefit of dealing with smaller solid stools!

This is a valuable check list to print and fill-out before heading to the veterinarian. (This could help save an extra trip to the vet later.) Checkup Checklist: http://www.virbacpets.com/Libraries/PDFs/CheckupChecklist.sflb.ashx Here are tips that I find helpful: 1.) File: Keep an electronic file for each hound on a computer. Whenever I notice a new medical problem or medical behavior (i.e. sudden lack of appetite), I note it in the file (with date) to discuss at our next veterinary visit. 2.) Pictures: If I see a questionable spot or growth, I snap picture/s of growth (next to a ruler) with date to track any changes in growth or shape. 3.) Paw Pads: If a potential paw "pad" problem, wetting the pad with water before snaping a picture helps visibility in many cases. This is especially helpful if you think there may be a foreign body that isn't easily visible on a dry pad. Great to be able to "zoom in" on those pictures on a computer, or to print out.

The only thing I would say is that this reaction he's talking about is malignant hyperthermia. It is a reaction that susceptible dogs have EVERY time they are under GA (gas anesthetic). Assuming your boy was castrated under general anesthesia using an inhalant anesthetic with no problems, this is not malignant hyperthermia. And if he had a problem when he was neutered it should have gone in his record and he really should never go under GA with an inhalant again if at all possible. It is technically possible for stress to induce MH, but this is more common in pigs than dogs. Greyhound further complicate matters by often becoming hyperthermic following anesthesia/surgery, but it is not MH and is not responsive to drugs (dantrolene is what is given for MH). It also doesn't necessarily occur after every anesthetic event. This increase in temperature is the result of shivering due to low temperature during surgery, but due to our hounds' large muscle mass it often results in over compensation. This is a lot more common than MH, is not hereditary, and is controllable by wetting the dog, or otherwise trying to keep them cool upon recovery from anesthesia. I'm sorry you had such an ordeal. It must have been very scary and I hope he recovers uneventfully from here on. There are definitely risks that we take in allowing our hounds to run, but try not to beat yourselves up. This was an accident and it is a risk we take in order to enrich their lives and allow them to do what they love to do. Well written, Krissy. Thank goodness your pup survived that horrific ordeal! My heart nearly stopped reading about your poor hound. He is very lucky to be alive today. One thing we can all do is ask our vets to keep an extra close eye monitoring our Greyhounds' temperature before, during, and after surgery. That can sometimes help catch and treat a temperature spike in time. We can take our hound's temperature (or at least feel them often) after they get home from surgery. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but a Greyhound's normal temperature averages 101-102 degrees. This hound's owner was so smart to recognize his discomfort to rush him to the vet in time. "True MH" spikes can happen very quickly, and like Krissy wrote would not respond to traditional cooling methods. (The less commonly used anesthetic called Halothane should NOT be used on Greyhounds.) Your hound may have endured a claw injury, but many Greyhounds are very mouthy when running. Greyhounds' skin is so thin that a minor tooth snag can cause a much larger laceration than one would expect. The safest way for multiple dogs to run together (2 or more) is to muzzle every dog. It's a good idea to remove martingale collars with D-rings when dogs are playing together. Another hound's teeth (or paw) can snag easily on the D-ring. We use flat, reflective ID collars that we leave on the dogs in case one gets out of the fenced enclosure. In this case, a flat breakaway collar is safer. May not be perfect, but certainly safer than leaving martingales with D-rings (and tags hanging down). BTW, tags on martingales should be placed on a side adjuster, not the D-ring. (Tags hanging off the D-ring increases "choking" risk.) Martingale collars should stay attached to leashes when dog is not being walked or held by a human. Thank goodness you got him to the vet in time. I'm relieved your hound is on the mend. Thank you for sharing your story so we can all learn from it.

Agree I Agree. Lots of good ideas in this thread, especially patience with a sighthound. Please do not spray him while in his crate. A crate should be a dog's happy, safe, comfortable place. Please avoid anything that might make him associate any punishment with his crate. That backfires big time. (Other new readers: Feeding in a crate is an excellent way to help a new hound like their crate. It associates a repeated, positive, happy feeling.) As mentioned, I'd encourage you to teach him to "sit" (with treats first). After he learns that action, begin telling him to "sit" before every meal, treat, etc. That gives him a "job" for the moments it takes you to place his food down. (This naturally helps him learn wait too.) Walking to tire hounds out is great. Important note: Please remember to allow a minimum 1 hour before and after walks when around meal times to reduce to possibility of bloat. Strenuous exercise should have a 2 hour rest time block before and after to reduce possibility of (deadly) bloat. I posted the following snippet in another thread. It offers gentle ways to teach a Greyhound to "sit". Gently Teaching a Greyhound to Sit: (Two options.) (Please AVOID using physical force. Please do not press down on rump, or force fold legs when teaching a Greyhound to sit. Greys have no idea what is being done to them and may bite from this rough handling.) Option 1: While hound is lying down, guide a high-value treat upwards in front of his face to encourage him UP to a sit. Then treat and highly praise, praise, praise!!" --- Option 2 for trusting hounds: Work with the Greyhound's natural behavior by watching for the hound to begin to lie down on his dog bed (or carpet). Have a yummy high-value treat in hand (Chicken, turkey, beef meat, lowfat string cheese, hot dog pieces, etc.) The instant he places his rear end on the bed/ground, immediately move your body directly in front him to block his body from lying all the way down. Immediately say "sit" and instantly give the treat reward. (He will quickly connect the word sit to the feeling.) Offer him tons of happy praise!! "Side sits" are fine. That position is more comfortable for some hounds than a "straight sit" with their long legs. They often do straight sits later on their own. (BTW, I don't expect Greyhounds to sit for long lengths of time.)" End snippet. --- Some people teach sit on a grassy hillside so the hound's rear doesn't have as far to drop down. That's good too. I've had great luck teaching all our hounds and fosters using the method #2. Keep lessons brief (<5 minutes for "sit"), but good to repeat 2-3 times daily. Other lessons I try to keep <10 minutes. Dogs have the minds of a 2-3 year old and can lose interest quickly. As mentioned, feeding half or third portions (immediately one after the other) for a day or two would give him extra practice to "sit" for each offering. I agree with wetting kibble. No need to soak until mushy unless for a medical problem. Bacteria builds quickly if soaking too long at room temperature. A hound is more inclined to choke on completely dry kibble ($250.00 ER visit later). Good luck! I bet your boy will be well-behaved around food in a short time. Greyhounds have no idea what we are looking for from them until we show them in a positive, cheerful rewarding manner. Here, all hounds sit before every meal. One that eats in a crate races INTO her crate, "sits" peers her head out and "waits" for her turn. She's adorable.

Did you buy these recently? I believe I read Arm and Hammer is phasing out of manufacturing this product. I don't remember them being recalled by the FDA, so I don't know the reason. I just checked Arm and Hammer's Web site, these treats were not listed under their products. I have yet to find a great soft dental treat that is safe and proven effective. Maybe others have(?). It's hard to beat toothbrushing for healthy dental hygiene and keeping breath fresh. Our hounds love CET pet toothpaste. (So often disease begins in the mouth, then infects internal organs.) Like Seeh2o, we use CET Oral Hygiene Rinse (guards against plaque) for one of our senior hounds who can no longer tolerate me brushing the back molars (illness). I use this on all hounds the week after professional veterinary dentals (before hound's gums are ready to resume brushing), or when I'm in a rush. It works well for breath (dogs/cats). It's quick and easy to use with a long applicator tip, the bottle stays upright. We use hard "DuraChew" (flavored) bones (by Nylabone) for long lasting bone-like chewing dental care. If plaque doesn't have a chance to form, breath usually stays fresh.

Placing a turn-out muzzle on Beckett will help protect you while you nurse/bandage his wound. Good to buy Clotisol (liquid) or Quick Stop (powder) from a pet store to keep at home for nail clipping, and incidents like this. www.entirelypets.com is a good on-line source.