GeorgeofNE

Yeah a "few days" of Baytril won't do much except empty your wallet. I've never heard of any antibiotic being prescribed for less than 10 days. Anyway, as to the OP's issue: you need to remove the odor completely. Vinegar won't do it. Carpet shampoo won't do it. You need something specifically for animal urine, either a commerical product or there are some home made things that I think should work. Otherwise, she's going to smell it, and as others have said, she may consider that a handy alternative outhouse! George's urine is rather dark in color too. He just concentrates it well. It's been tested a LOT, so I know it's normal. Does your girl's urine smell worse than normal? I think you should probably take it in for a testing just to be safe. Won't cost you much, and it's important to know for sure what's normal for her and what's not.

My George howled for hours on end in his crate. I video taped him when three neighbors (condo) complained in one day. It was horrifying! I stopped crating hiim and tried the baby gate. Crawled under it day 1. Jumped over it day 2. Gave up confining him. Two weeks later, my neighbor said, "Did you return the dog?" cause he didn't make another noise. Never chewed a thing, never caused any damage of any kind. He HATED being confined is all! Obviously I am seconding the notion that maybe he's just one of those dogs who hate being confined.

Synthroid is the human version of the same stuff dogs take. I would not be concerned myself.

What specific book are you reading? I have 16 training books; some of them date back quite a while. A lot of thinking has changed since, for example, since my father was training our hunting English Setter back in the 50s. Each trainer has his or her own methods; none are "right" and none are "wrong." Different things work for different dogs. Getting married to one technique in one book is perhaps not a good idea. And you need to consider your subject. You're talking about a HOUND. Notorioiusly stubborn creatures, in general. I have found that with George, my first greyhound, but certainly not my first dog, much of what I believe has to be set aside. He was five years old when I got him. His entire life has been 100% different from the typical puppy pet you bring home at 8 weeks of age and get to shape from day 1. He's a full cooked adult, with his own ideas. As a working animal whose sole job was to run around an oval a couple of times a week, then get into and out of his kennel when told, I don't expect him NOW to be the model of obedience like my last dog was. I "settle" for good behavior. When I called a new vet (I've moved recently) to make an initial appointment, they said, "Is George a cat or a dog?" and I laughed and said, "Neither. He's a Greyhound." To me he is much more like a cat in his responses to my attempt to train him. I imagine in his mind that he asks himself, "What's in it for me?" when I tell him to sit or stay or lie down. It doesn't bother him if he ticks me off; I can tell. My last dog lived to please me. George does NOT. What's most important to me is excellent leash manners. The other thing that's really important to me is that he be housebroken! Leash manners to ME do happen to include walking on my left and only on my left. Hey, that's the way I was taught as a little girl, and I see no reason that can't work for George. I insist he not pull. Nor lag behind. We have times where he's allowed to sniff, and times he is not. I do believe it's perfectly acceptable for me to determine at what speed and in what direction we walk. He has gotten really good on the leash, but it wasn't easy! The first time I tried to take a bone from him, he nearly took my arm off. I was stunned--I was used to Kramer, who would have gift wrapped it for me if I asked for it. Then I remembered that this guy has possibly never HAD anything so delcious, and it's only natural that he wants to keep it. Rather than have a battle of wills and fight over who is "alpha," I held out a Milk Bone, and he dropped the bone, and I took it. It's just not worth it to me to make it about who is in charge. I taught him to sit the same way I'd teach any dog to sit--the tried and true "tuck and fold." While some will suggest Greyhounds "can't" sit, that's simply not true. Does he sit the same way my old dog did? No, but he does it. In fact he's gotten to the point now (after 2.5 years) that he knows if he REALLY wants something, he'll sit and look hopefully at me! I have to admit I have failed utterly at "stay." I'm sure he COULD learn it, but he has sort of made this a game. He'll lay down and stay, but as soon as I turn my back, he's up and staring at me again. Is he challenging me? Maybe. Or maybe it's that he simply thinks it's more fun to be close to what he wants than to please me, the one with the thumbs. Again, not worth it to make it a huge battle. I adopted a retired racer because I read they were great companions who would be happy in a condo. He's that, and more. But he's not candidate for strict obedience, and he never will be! So rather than try to stick to your book, consider your dog, and adapt a bit. Some of the folks on GT have had hounds for a LONG time, and many of them have MANY hounds! I'm sure you'll get some good tips and advice, and I hope you will find them useful.

I actually have a gizmo that dispenses four small Kongs! It's called "Kong Time," and I got it when I would have done ANYTHING to get George over his SA! You fill the Kongs, and then at pre-set intervals, it beeps and then pops one out! I'd come home and find the four Kongs in the middle of his bed!

What did the vet say???

I was going to say the same thing--since you specified "for alone training," I'm afraid that things that can be ingested are a really bad idea. Have you tried a Buster Cube?? George loved his! It dispenses pieces of kibble when the dog rolls it around. Obviously this only works if he's not crated! Another suggestion is to have a "hide and seek" and hide pieces of kibble in fairly easy to find places (at first) and then make it harder. You might be making the Kong too difficult; try smearing peanut butter or spray cheese or something all around the inner core, and make sure you get a bit on the opening. Don't pack it with treats and stuff; they get stuck, and if he is as lazy as you say, you're right--he'll give up!

Never mind! What I was going to say was already said!

When you viewed him on the web cam, did he squat to poop, or did it just fall out? Fecal incontinence does happen! I know, because my parents have a dog who has that issue. She's a lot older than your dog, but... My dog has a spinal condition, and the vet told me one of the things that may happen as he gets worse is fecal incontinence, so I put that out there for your consideration.

I HAD to force George to learn stairs, as I lived in a third floor condo. When the fire alarm went off (every time there was a storm!) the elevators shut down, and the noise was so painful, we had to leave the building. It took a while (3 flights of black metal stairs, in an enclosed stairwell!), but it really is a pretty important skill! If he'll go on a leash, do that, and give him loads of treats when he gets to the top!!

I was going to say the same thing. That's a huge amount of food! My dog eats a different brand, but he gets 1 cup twice a day (and a 45 minute brisk walk every single day). He's on the smaller side, and every dog is different, but six cups of food a day for a housepet is a lot. And "putting him out" in the yard is not exercise no matter how large the yard is. Greyhounds that live as single pets rarely run around alone. I'd get this dog's stool to the vet ASAP. Something is wrong. A dog doesn't just get horrible SA after being in a home for that long unless something has drastically changed. Good luck. I know how hard this must be for you!

I have all my dog food delivered. www.petfooddirect.com The prices are good, so adding the shipping you come out paying abouto the same--so distance need not be a factor in getting your favorite food.

While itchy ears are typically signs of allergies, everyone seems to assume that means to FOOD. Dogs, just like people, can be allergic to pollens, carpets, etc. You need to rule out lots of other things before jumping to allergies. The vet will swab out some goo from the ear and take a look to see if it's mites. Then they'll clean it out really well, and most likely give you something to continue doing so. Possibly some medicated ointment too. I lived through YEARS of ear problems with an allergic dog, and it's no fun, but vaseline and olive oil aren't going to help, as the itching is probably way down deep inside. You could try some 10% cortisone cream (drugstore--Cortaide is one brand) and rub it on the red and raw part. That'll help with inflammation.

That's hard to believe. I have my vet's home and cell number. Is he feeling better? Vets in my area generally have a recording for after hours telling you where the "closest" emergency clinic is; in my town, it's at least 30 minutes away. I left my dog's urine at my vet on Saturday. It's Thursday. I don't have the results yet. Oh, and they charged me $55 for a urinalysis. Not a culture, a urinalysis. The concept of after hours contact numbers doesn't exist around here.

Is it possible that's bruising from an overly vigorous exam? Was she x-rayed and possibly held tightly?

Wow, I thought I had read a lot of greyhound books but I have never read that factoid or heard of breeding for that trait. Interesting concept. Poodle has always slept as much or more than greys of the same age. When I read that I thought, "Huh!" Given that Greyhounds have been around for what, 2,000 years, I suspect this is a bit of misinformation. I'm not suggesting the poster of this didn't read it; I'm suggesting it's just not accurate. Modern racing Greyhounds are bred for speed. I think "amazingly low thyroid" is also inaccurate. Their thyroid levels are relatively low compared to other breeds; but that is normal for them and not a sign of "low thyroid."

You must have a long work day if he was alone for 5 hours by lunch time. How much exercise did he get before you went to work? I don't mean time in the back yard (if you have one!) sniffing around. I mean exercise. Dogs usually do things like chew the walls because they have nothing else to do and they're bored. If he's tired out, he'll likely sleep the day away. The muzzle seems like a reasonable solution--but he also needs to be exercised in the morning, and he needs a distraction. Many of us use a Kong (I like the "king" size Kong) with stuff inside--I personally smear peanut butter around the inside walls of George's. He only gets the Kong when I leave him--no other time. My dog gets a 45 minute brisk walk every day before work. Yes, I have to get up early, and yes, this can be a drag when it's cold/raining, etc. But I am single, have no fenced yard, and live alone, so I feel it's very important that he get a bit tired out before I expect him to behave all day while I earn the money to keep him in the manner to which he has become acustomed! Doesn't sound like you even have a crate, or you probably would be using it. It also doesn't sound like he really needs one! And if you expect him not to sleep on your furniture, you're probably going to have to pile something on it to make it impossible. Otherwise, just get some nice throws and cover your stuff and accept it! Better he snooze on your couch than eat your kitchen, right?? Good luck!! It takes way more than a few days for them to adjust! It'll be fine!

That "oil slick" is why my vet will not prescribe Advantix to anyone who has cats; the stuff is apparently very dangerous for cats, and it's too easy for cats to get it on them in that 48 hour period where the stuff is still on the fur! I put it on George when he's on the balcony chewing a bone so he stays laying down for a while so it doesn't dribble down the sides!

Neither have I--in 49 years of my life and numerous dogs, I have NEVER had a vet suggest "routine deworming." George was dewormed twice when I first adopted him, and he's been on Heartgard Plus since then. My vets don't ever suggest it unless they find parasites in his stool. Same goes for my cats.

I love the name Topper! That was the name of the sire of our female English Setter--Grand Champion Clariho's Top Hat! Jake's a great name too. Call him anything you like. My dog's kennel name was Chile, and he never even wiggled his ears when I said it. I named him George because my last dog's name was Kramer, and I decided to keep the Seinfeld theme going. If I ever have a female, I'll probably name her Elaine! Dogs are very adaptable, and really don't care what you call them as long as you feed them, love them, and are kind to them!

That's what I think; kidney or bladder stones. Those are some fairly classic symptoms. If the Clavamox doesn't work FAST, ask your vet to prescribe Baytril. Clavamox didn't do it for George, but Baytril did. My vet refers to it as "the big guns."

It's highly unlikely that two dogs would have a reaction to a new food at the same time. Food allergies typically start with itchy feet. I suspect that they might have picked up a flea or two. Do you use Frontline? Having just been to the vet, they may have picked them up there! Any chance you have ants in the yard that might have bitten them? Was it new shampoo? Was it dog shampoo? Did you rinse it REALLY well? Just a couple of ideas!

Sounds to me like he's marking--which is very different from just peeing. You might want to try a belly band for a while and see if that helps. You also have to find EVERY place he's pee'd, and get it clean with some sort of pee remover. Also, if you have not already had him to the vet for a full check up (every new dog should be taken to the vet), it's worth doing, and taking in some urine just in case he may have a UTI.