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We've had Truman for about three weeks now. He is really the sweetest puppy ever. Loves to be around people- would snuggle forever if you let him. He and Henry are already the best of friends. They romp around in the yard. Henry lays with Truman and even licks his ears! Truman does well in the house. Miraculously, no chewing (other than the occasion sock or envelope). When left alone, the dogs rarely get into anything. I don't leave toys, treats, or food out to ensure they won't fight over a resource.

 

Housebreaking, however, is not going so well. I'm thinking I made a big-time beginners mistake. I read several books on puppy-training- I was prepared to crate Truman and/or confine him to a small area of the house until he was reliably housebroken. I started small by feeding him in the crate and leaving him in for a few minutes at a time. He is an older puppy (four and a half months) and had never seen a crate before we adopted him. He has been in a kennel-setting where he had access to a run 24-7. Naturally, he wasn't very fond of the crate. Within the first week or so, he had very few accidents in the house. But then he did start peeing in the crate. He would cry and whine for hours on end at nighttime. Eventually I figured it was a lost cause, plus Henry never needed crating, so I decided to ditch the crate and try another way.

 

Now, I'm kicking myself because he's going to the bathroom anywhere and everywhere. I have both dogs on a strict feeding schedule. I am trying remedial housetraining- treating him and making a big fuss anytime he does go outside. I go outside with them, showing him an area and using a specific command. But the weather has been pretty nasty, and Truman immediately whines to come back in. It's like a battle of wills- me standing in Pennsylvania January snowstorms saying "go pee!" while he sits and stares. The problem is that I work during the day, so I can't let them out as frequently as I want. I'm thinking I may have to go back to the crate, but I'm nervous to do it since he had such a bad first experience. I also think it stresses Henry out when the puppy freaks out and cries. What do I do??

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Take him out on a leash. You need to teach him to walk on one anyway--take him for a walk. Getting out and about is good for him physically and mentally. He's a lot more apt to actually empty out if you walk him than just stand there telling him to go pee! Baby gate him into a room that has floors he won't destroy, and put down some pee pads when you're not home.

 

When you are, don't let him out of your sight, even if you have to keep him on a leash.

 

Put him on a schedule--

 

Take him out after meals, after long naps, after play times.

 

And you need to get the smell of urine OUT of the house with an enzyme cleaner.


Hamish-siggy1.jpg

Susan,  Hamish,  Mister Bigglesworth and Nikita Stanislav. Missing Ming, George, and Buck

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I've housebroken at least a dozen dogs and have my own methods. Unfortunately, asking for housebreaking advice is like asking for parenting advice--everyone is going to have their own opinion on it.

 

You've got an older puppy, so there's no question that he has the physical maturity to "hold it", so that's good.

 

My advice is to go back to the crate. If he's peeing in the crate, that indicates that your crate is too large. He should have just enough room to turn around and lay down--no excess space.

Feeding and watering should be measured and on a schedule--same time and amounts every day.

He should be walked first thing every morning, after every meal, after naps, and after playtime. Keep a journal of the times he "goes". Praise him when he does his business--time it right as he's committed to his squat (not too early or you'll interrupt him, but not too late because he needs to be pooping or peeing when you praise him).

 

If he "won't go" outside when you know he has to go, bring him back in and put him back in the crate. Try again 15 minutes later.

 

He should absolutely have NO FREEDOM if he hasn't "done both" after eating--back in the crate. At other times of the day, if he hasn't gone, he should be tethered to you via a leash. At no point should he EVER be out of your sight for even 30 seconds until he's been reliably indicating he has to go outside and has voided when you know he needs to (and you will know this from the journal you kept of his poo/pee schedule).

 

Best of luck! I managed to housebreak a puppy mill dog who had no qualms with soiling himself, although it was the hardest most challenging 2 YEARS of my life. Eventually he got it, but it took a lot of work. Your case sounds at first blush to be far simpler. You have just given him far more freedom than he was ready for. DOgs (and especially puppies) absolutely desire structure, routine, and schedules.

 

Oh, and one more thing--as tempting as it may be, NO SCOLDING if he goes in the house!!!!

 

Voiding in the house means YOU messed up, not him. Scolding will only confuse him, possibly injure the trust/bond between you and does nothing to show him what he SHOULD be doing.

 

If you catch him in the act, simply scoop him up and quickly take him outside. If the deed is done, there is nothing to do except clean it up.

~Amanda

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I don't have any expert advice for you but I am just at what looks like the end of housebreaking two 16 week old greyhound puppies.

 

I have a large advantage though in that I am home all day.

 

For us, I would say the first week we were letting them out every half hour, even through the night :( They hated the crate. Finn more so than Sadie. We tried them together (crates open to each other), crates together but separate, different rooms, crates open to a pen and on pet beds in our room. We could get them to sleep in them but if they were penned or crated at all they woke significantly more often during the night and after a month we were beat. The pet beds in our room proved to be the best solution to get them to sleep through the night, but the minute they woke up (at whatever time) they'd silently walk away and pee on the floor. What worked best for accidents was the open crate attached to an x-pen filled with pee pads. Every few days we would expand the area. I still can't let them have full run of the house because they seem to revert the minute they're given too much freedom.

 

They now do well at night in a penned off room (they sleep in their open crates for some of the night but they tend to bed hop quite a bit) with only a few accidents. We also did the bell training so they sometimes will ring the bell during the night to get out which is fantastic!

 

I think it was just the persistence of letting them outside and catching them a few times just as they started to pee inside that worked. I never yelled or scolded, but I would yell in a startled voice "OH NO! Outside!" and shoosh them towards the door. Only then would I stand and watch them pee outside and say "Hurry Up" with lots of praise when they went.

 

It's been -30deg C here all week so even walking them is a hazard for all of us. They've been peeing on our wrap around patio and I can't say I blame them. Even at only a few minutes out there they're licking their feet when they come in. It's brutal.

 

If I could handle it without convincing myself that Finn was going to develop an anxiety disorder (he just goes bananas if I close the crate door even if he has treats) I would do the crate training. I know our pups have different cries depending on what the issue is and that's been helpful now in eliminating some of our false alarm calls.

 

It's tough isn't it? My brother is still training his dogs as he works during the day too (not greyhounds). Pee pads and long weekends have been his saving grace. Fortunately they are improving over time.

 

My dogs eat pee pads now :(

 

Good luck!

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I've only used a belly band on an adult male who would mark if I left him alone too long. I think I only ever used it twice and he never marked again. Haven't tried it for a puppy but I would think that if you are home to watch it might work.

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Guest Geostar

Yes, I have found them a great way to train the pup/foster/new grey inside the home. The catch is, however, that you must remember to take them off when he DOES go outside or he'll soil the band. Not to trumpet here: but, I do make them.

Also, if your pup soils in front of you, tell him "NO!" in a firm tone, scoop him up and take him outside. Never, at any time, should you use his name when correcting him. That will just confuse him and make him wonder if his name is a 'bad' thing. IF he continues to finish the job outside, praise him with enthusiasm and give him a treat. He'll soon realize that he will get something nice if he does it in the yard, but, will be scolded sharply if caught in the act of doing it in the house. These pups/dogs are smart..they only ask for direction in order to please you.

Best wishes,

Esther

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I always housetrain our dogs using a tether method and a very strict schedule taking them out for regular potty breaks at the same time everyday. This includes both young puppies we have now raised. At the beginning the dog is either attached to me on a leash, in a crate, or enjoying some playtime(AFTER pottying). Freedom is granted very gradually and with both of the puppies we raised it was months before they were allowed any kind of total freedom.

 

Tethering can be a pain but I consider it totally worth it. A few weeks over the course of many years is not that big of a time investment if you keep the big picture in mind while doing it. I've never had any kind of housetraining issues with my dogs by being so super vigilant at the get go.

 

Personally I hate the idea of a belly band on a puppy. Training puppies is time consuming - there is no quick fix if you want to raise a well trained dog.

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I always housetrain our dogs using a tether method and a very strict schedule taking them out for regular potty breaks at the same time everyday. This includes both young puppies we have now raised. At the beginning the dog is either attached to me on a leash, in a crate, or enjoying some playtime(AFTER pottying). Freedom is granted very gradually and with both of the puppies we raised it was months before they were allowed any kind of total freedom.

 

Tethering can be a pain but I consider it totally worth it. A few weeks over the course of many years is not that big of a time investment if you keep the big picture in mind while doing it. I've never had any kind of housetraining issues with my dogs by being so super vigilant at the get go.

 

Personally I hate the idea of a belly band on a puppy. Training puppies is time consuming - there is no quick fix if you want to raise a well trained dog.

agree 100%!!

 

if you do the teather/umbicile cord method you are teaching him manners at the same time. when you are sitting he can be directed to a hoof or bone. remember he needs to learn to chew those appropiate things. when you go out to potty go to the same area and figure out a word- go pee, hurry hurry, whatever you want. walk him in a circle around the area and don't say anything. if he's on a schedule eventually he will empty himself then you praise him w/ a special treat and good verbal praise. his teeth are nearly in, when they all come in the brain connects w/ the bladder....and from my experience...NOT A DAY EARLIER!

 

premire- the collar and leash company makes an excellent series that i believe you can get on amazon. it's not cheap, but there is a cd, pamphlets and various guides for training puppies. it won an award and it deserved it. felix was not my first puppy- i've had dogs for nearly 40 years and read the guide from cover to cover. "why not pick up on some new techniques?"i thought- and i did get some new info.

 

a belly band is for an infermed dog or a dog who marks, your dog isn't marking, he's doing what he should be doing- playing, getting excited and peeing because he just can't hold it any longer.

 

do remember to go out and play- many times a day. a good puppy is a tired puppy-enjoy!

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