3greytjoys
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Many people prefer them for retired Greyhounds, myself included. Greyhounds legs are so long, it can be uncomfortable for hounds to bend down to floor level to eat. There are items around the house that can be used in lieu of an expensive dog feeder stand. Plant baskets work fine (bowl sits inside the upper rim of the basket). Some people use plant stands, but some are a bit too high.
Side note: We use a tall stainless steel bucket for water and place the bucket inside a decorative basket. Filling the bucket 1/2 way with water helps keep drippage to a minimum. (Plastic is not desired for pet bowls. Chemicals can leach into water.)
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Agree with posts above. Initial hatchback training using different smelly high-value treats tossed in car so Luka smells and sees them. A lot of different options below:
1. Some people back their car up to a slight hill incline (in driveway or against low grassy hill next to parking lot) so car's rear-end is closer to ground level for dog to practice entering/exiting. Offer gentle, happy praise and treats for each action.
2. If you prefer to leave car in level parking space "as is"...
Some dogs prefer a running start to jump in. Open hatchback, toss in smelly treats, take 5-10 steps back, then jog with Luka towards open car. Great if Luka jumps right in.
3. Open side door of car.
Pull front seat forward (including front seatback folded forward). Ensure the middle floorboard area is empty so Luka has plenty of space to step onto floorboard of car to enter. Once he's inside, he will probably figure out to take another step up to main hatchback area.
(The car would appear more open (less like a scary enclosed box) by opening the opposite side door to the outside also.)
4. Open hatchback - Enlist help from a Grey savvy friend to hold Luka's leash while you get inside the car from front door (allowing Luka full space in hatchback area). Call Luka inside while friend jogs Luka into open hatchback.
5. Enlist a friend's Greyhound to show Luka how it's done in Luka's new car.
6. If all else fails, keep doing the front paws up, then back paws up until the "feeling" clicks in that he can do a running jump next time, or borrow a dog ramp or dog steps from someone.
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Practicing exits could be the same re: backing up to little hill or berm, or using a ramp or steps.
I keep old thick orthodedic dog beds to use as a landing platform when hounds are exiting the car. I'm careful to secure dog bed with my foot so it doesn't slide.
Every dog is different so it's hard to know Luka's reactions to these methods. Keep sessions short <5 minutes so he doesn't overstress. If he doesn't "get it," try again another day.
BTW, if you have bedding (like a blanket) in the back of the car that slides around, you might consider replacing it with something more secure for a moving vehicle. (Two orthopedic 4" thick dense foam beds wedged together fit perfectly wall-to-wall in our SUV crossover. The level, dense foam is fairly secure footing for Greyhounds.)
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I read somewhere that they don't have the buoyancy that other dogs have because of their low body fat and narrow build, so they sink.
This is true. Even though dogs can figure out how to swim (doggie paddle), unlike strong water dog breeds, racing Greyhounds (sprinters) have lower endurance, combined with lack of body fat, to stay afloat for long in an emergency situation.
Most racing Greyhounds have never seen a large body of water and think they can "walk" on water. This includes backyard swimming pools and ponds. If a Greyhound falls into water deeper than their height, some Greyhounds who were previously taught where to exit in a shallow end, are too panicked to remember which direction to swim. Panicked hounds often circle and sink, or try to climb out (unsuccessfully) where they fell in.
canoe...kinda tippy and we have wimpy dogs! We do stick to marine rules.....a life jacket for every person and dog on board. Dogs have to wear them. We live on a lake so we're a little nutty about water safety because we've seen some yukky accidents.I agree with dee. Any dog on a boat should wear a life-preserver. Having spent years at a lake, I'm also aware of too many dog drownings, including very strong water savvy dogs who simply fell in deep water from the land but were too confused to find their way to safety. (Separate families lost dogs that fell in from their own yards, but couldn't find their own well-used exit ramps.)
If taking a dog in an open air boat, I agree about limiting time to early morning or early evening avoiding heat of day and direct sun, particularly with temperature sensitive (and thin fur) breeds like Greyhounds, and keep fresh water aboard for dog.
I imagine it would be very challenging to save a panicked Greyhound from a tipped canoe when a human would not have solid footing.
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Ditto excellent replies above.
Also helps to give new dogs an opportunity to urinate/deficate (spaced out in two different areas from each dog) first, and let each dog sniff the other dog's business area on ground before beginning walking introductions.
When you all arrive home, if you have a fenced yard, good to let dogs in fenced yard before letting both dogs inside house first. (This allows dogs to do plenty of peeing/marking in an outer "home" territory before entering more intimate indoor territory.)
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Slipping does scare them. Good if you're able to place Luka's bowls near his bed temporarily, so he doesn't feel extra fear of walking across the hard floor to his bowls.
Cheap, long runner rugs (+ rubber rug grippers underneath) on your hard floors where Luka needs to go will be most helpful now and long term. If you're not able to afford runner rugs from a cheap home center store or thrift store, consider asking your adoption group if their members have extra runner rugs to donate (or loan) for Luka. Another cheap possibility is indoor/outdoor rug material (can be cut off a roll in desired lengths). Again, made with non-slip underside, or add separate rubber rug grippers.
All our Greyhounds are much safer since we added 7'-8' long x 2' wide runner rugs. That's all they need to feel secure walking safely and comfortably inside the house.
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- I went to his bed with the steak and I gave rest of pieces to him on his bed. Is this okay...?
- That was good to know I shouldn't sit in front of him... because of the room setting, it's difficult for me to sit behind him, in fact. But what I usually do is, I am sitting next to him when I am using my computer, as the coffee table somehow hide his face from my direction, so I can see his body but face. On couch - I am trying not to see his face, then. avoiding direct eye contact should be another thing I have to be careful about. He doesn't do often yet, in fact, but I somehow am probably forcing him to do... when I call his name, I see his face, etc and if he sees me I say good boy. well, it might not be appropriate at this point, right? I can tell he is still uncomfortable with but I also didn't know simply this was not supposed to do.
Now he really doesn't move from his bed wherever I go, unless I call his name few times (even so, he stops on a halfway and often goes back to the bed). He stands up, looking at the direction where I am, and then he again lays on his bed. Is this good thing? Or just time will resolve? I feel I am so ignored which I think I should not think of.
I know I have to understand Luka is different. Tend to compare how my angel girl was is always so easy to be happened. Adjusting MYSELF as well with new behaviors towards Luka must be the biggest challenge I am facing right now. Believing progress is so hard to believe, to be honest. It's been only 13 days with him, but I am so easy to be discouraged by current situation. I know he is such a gentle giant (he weighs 80+lbs), just so much afraid of everything.
The exercises I suggested are meant for very, very shy dogs (aka: spooks), but work well for average new shy dogs (like Luka) also. Don't worry if you don't do these things exactly. You are getting the general idea, and dogs are forgiving.
Just to clarify, I did not mean for you to sit behind Luka. (That would be too scary for Luka because Luka does need to be able to see/watch your body (just not your direct eye-to-eye contact). I just meant for Luka to be able see/watch your back or the side of your body, from Luka's perceived safe distance away. It's okay if that doesn't work in your room setting. The table/computer blocking part of you is fine.
The scary part from a new (shy) dog's perspective is seeing the full front of a human with full face and direct eye contact. (Generally, it's good for people to approach any new dog with human's body turned slightly sideways, and without direct eye contact. = Less threatening body language to dogs.)
Shy dogs adjust well in their own time when human goes about their own daily business. This way the dog begins to feel safer just watching how their new person and new home works on a daily basis. Please remember that Luka will warm up and begin to feel more comfortable with you. He will learn to love you and become more affectionate in his own time. That's our magical reward to see dogs learn to trust, so they begin to feel safe enough to let their wonderful true personality shine through and grow.
Still good to limit bed interactions, but in your specific case, it's okay to occasionally toss a treat (or briefly kneel down at extended arms length away to offer high-value meat from your flat-open hand), only while he is clearly wide awake and perched upright on his bed. Still best to not pet him on his bed, and not hover close to him while he's on his bed. Allow space between you both during these earliest days/weeks so he can watch you from his safe space. Good to offer an occasional treat when you are sititng down at your computer too. He may be more willing to approach you eventually while you are seated.
Excellent to call his name and toss/offer him treats if/when he looks at you, or comes to you. It's fine to say a gentle "good boy" when he visually connects with you. (Just don't smother him with too much physical attention yet. He's not used to that behavior from humans yet. Baby steps.
)Many Greyhounds are too scared to walk on hard surface (slippery) floors. If your hallway is hard floor (wood, tile, linoleum, etc.), please place old rubber-backed bath mats, or a runner rug with a rubber gripper mat underneath an area rug to help Luka feel "safe" walking through the hallway. Any dog that slips on a floor is much more hesitant to walk on the scary floor again without added security of a rug. I completely understand your feelings of being ignored during arrival and departure greetings. (That can be a good thing with some other types of dog personalities.) If Luka greeted you at the door before, just understand it was a situational door episode that scared him. It wasn't you personally. Yes, I agree to try not to think of it as him ignoring you, remember Luka is new to your home and his reactions today are not permanent. He will change dramatically for the better in 3 weeks, 3 months, and throughout his life with you.
Our (initially) shy and super-reserved Greyhounds now adore us and are sooo much more loving and affectionate. One of our most super shy hounds is now the most loving lap dog you could imagine. She was completely petrified of everything new during the earliest months. She refused to walk inside the house on her first day home. During her first month, she would run upstairs to get away from a squeaky toy downstairs. Now that she trusts humans, and understands her retired life, she's the sweetest love sponge ever, and is happy as a clam on walks, etc. Same with our shy fosters, they've all warmed up after they adjust to their new people/homes. They are our greatest gifts. Mangos_mom is right, you're doing great and you are miles ahead of most dog owners because you are open to helpful advice. Everyone has offered great advice, and Luka is in a wonderful home!
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I am so very sorry for your sudden shocking and crushing loss of Coyote. This type of unexpected loss is horrible for you, and for everyone involved.
Godspeed sweet Coyote...
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All suggestions above are excellent. Reverting back to shyness in a new home is normal. Any willingness on Luka's part to accept hand-feeding is excellent.
- Avoid direct eye contact while Luka is getting used to you.
- Usually good to leave new dogs alone while they are on their bed.
(In your case, giving him treats is probably okay, but usually good to allow their own private "safe" space.)
- Don't pet him on his head (can be threatening to dogs). Only pet him if he's standing up. Okay to offer him a brief gentle pet on his shoulder/side as you're walking away from him, immediately thereafter, okay to quietly say good boy. Don't lean over him. (Reaching or leaning over dog = threatening behavior in dog language.)
As Sambuca mentioned, toss (high value) treats on floor, gradually tossing closer to hallway, then into hallway slowly over time.
Important human behavior tips:
1. If you're physically able to sit on a pillow on (or near the floor) in same room with Luka (or next room), but with a lot of distance between you both -- sit with your back towards Luka while you simply ignore him. Read a book, work on computer or whatever to keep yourself occupied. Avoid direct eye contact. Yawn often. Be careful not to make sudden moves. Do this activity daily for as long as you can. Good to occasionally toss treats on the floor behind you - in his direction but far away from you. Eventually, if he decides he wants to approach you (for food), hold treats in your flat, open hand behind your back - without facing him.
2. After a few days, begin sitting sideways (so he can see part of your face), yawn often and begin licking your lips. Still ignore him - no direct eye contact. This is helping him learn he can relax in your presence, he will slowly begin to feel more trust, and will feel that you won't scare or harm him.
3. After he begins to "trust" you more and he feels more comfortable:
Try to entice a little bit of play behavior. Try crawling (on all 4's) across floor, away from Luka, then you roll over on your back, while covering your face, and make high-pitched whimpering noises. If he comes to investigate you, toss yummy treats nearby on floor for him to eat. Later, very gradually, begin to add a quiet, gentle, happy tone of verbal praise after he spends more time investigating you.
Again, don't do any sudden movements. This is an extremely important exercise to practice now in case he ever gets loose outside in the future. You are building his trust to come to you. (Only safe and good things should happen every . single . time he approaches you.)
Outside walks:
- Ensure Luka's collar is snug enough that you can't get it over his ears without having to really "work it" off.
- Tie a knot in your leash handle so it fits closely to your wrist, then wrap leash several times around your wrist and hand to ensure leash isn't dropped by mistake. Stay alert to his reactions.
- If he begins to shy at something, say "let's run" (or whatever cue) then quickly jog past whatever might scare him, or turn in the opposite direction and jog away.
- If you're not using 2 leashes (one with harness), it's smart to add a carabiner loop from the leash to the collar as a secondary lock attachment. (I've had standard leash snaps open/fall off collar ring several times before.)
I completely agree with Greg re: harness + collar for new, shy dogs. I understand if a bad harness experience scared Luka too much. As soon as you think Luka is able to handle it, place harness on him only while he is supervised inside your home, so he can begin to get used to the feel of it. Eventually you can attach the leash for guiding him around a room (while rewarding with treats). There are different types of harnesses. He might feel better in one style vs. another.
Exercise is a great stress reliever for dogs when they are in an environment in which they feel comfortable.
If a friend's calm Greyhound is available to visit with you both on a regular basis, it could help Luka adjust.
Try not to place him in situations that are overstimulating too soon. Take very slow baby steps. Luka is a lucky boy to be living in your wonderful calming home. I imagine he will soon begin warming up and trusting you more than anyone ever in his life. As others have mentioned, shy dogs are the most rewarding bond ever!
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Bullet is a handsome heart melter!
If you don't already add water to his main kibble meals, you could try that to help curb his excessive need for water during night. Not sure how warm he gets overnight, but if any of our hounds get too warm, they drink more water at night. Try feeling his head/body at different times of day to learn his comfortable body temp.
I assume his bedding is thick and cushy enough so he doesn't feel a hard surface pushing against his bones.
If you try baby-gating the bedroom, be sure to completely dog-proof your bedroom. (Even an ingested sock is enough to cause internal blockage.)
Certain treats might increase thirst.
He might wake up hungry. A small divided portion of his daily kibble could be given just before bed (only about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of kibble but without extra water). We only dampen our packs' bedtime snack kibble to prevent a need to go out during middle of night.
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I agree, it's most important to get the medical problems resolved ASAP.
Also, too many food changes in a short time. Hopefully, you'll find one that will show improvement within a month or so. Kibble transitions are usually recommended to accomplish slowly -- minimum 10 days, better if transitioning over 3-4 weeks, gradually adding about 1/4 of new food each week while reducing old food.
California Natural (lamb and rice) has helped resolve many Greyhounds soft stools and gas problems. CA Natural chicken and rice is okay too. California Natural is a simple ingredient kibble that often helps newer hounds who are reactive to other kibble brands. Higher nutritional calorie content = less daily feeding quantity. Smaller stools (without excessive low quaily cereal fillers of some other foods).
Beware of foods with "by-products" or any type of corn-related ingredients, both are lower quality. Specific named meat is good; however, anytime you see a particular named whole meat in the ingredient list, (i.e., "chicken") be aware that it's weighed/measured for the printed ingredient list when the meat is raw and full of water. Once cooked (dried) that whole "chicken" amount would drop dramatically down in the ingredient list, raising the quantity level of other ingredients (possibly fillers) that were originally lower down the ingredient list.
In contrast, when a food lists a specific meat ingredient like "chicken meal," the term "meal" means the meat was weighed and listed at dry weight after cooking, so you're getting a true placement level on the ingredient list.
Long term, imo, it's good to change kibble brands periodically over the lifetime of the dog (unless a dog has inflammatory bowel disease, or similar medical condition).
If additional vet prescribed meds are needed (that loosen stools), ask your vet if a stool firming medication might help during treatment. I understand your situation. Good luck with Gambler.
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Good suggestions.
Many newly retired hounds can't walk too far because their tender paw pads haven't had time to toughen up slowly, pads could be sore from wearing down too much. Also, racers are only used to sprinting for 30 seconds vs. longer walking endurance. We begin new hounds with 5-10 minute walks, building up very slowly over several weeks/month+.
A consideration in AZ is sidewalk/pavement temperature being too hot (test with your bare hand), or air temperature too warm.
You might try changing the leashed walk location as a behavior test (i.e., go to a large park without scary cars and trucks passing by). Chloe seems fairly new and still learning about urban stimuli. She might benefit from slowing the outside world stimuli until she begins feeling more comfortable in smaller exposure steps.
Much less likely in your case, but possible if painful walks on hard surfaces is a deep (possibly non-visible) corn, or previous racing injury that hurts during longer walks. (We check pads for foreign objects regularly too.)
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You could try to leave with Jackson for a while tonight. It could be helpful to have DBF there to see Fenway's reaction to your departure. Good sign if Fenway acts normally while you're gone. (Our extremely severe SA hound freaks when I leave a room, even with a pack of calm hounds and humans seated right next to her.) There isn't much you can do in one night for SA. Hopefully, Fenway will be okay alone in his own home environment. Great if you're able to get a Kong and peanut butter for tomorrow. If you freeze Kong, add a little room temp peanut butter or meat only baby food near the Kong edge before you leave. (Gerber's Stage 2 meat only (blue color label) is safe for dogs = no toxic spices to pets.) Offering Kong as Fen's high value treat will help keep him busy.
Also, if Fen is a chewer, try a hard DuraChew by Nylabone large "souper size," bacon or any flavor (not original flavor = no flavor). Smearing peanut butter on it will increase interest in the new chew bone too. Dog walker could restock busy treat toys mid-day. Even a kibble cube, but I hesitate leaving hounds with anything on which they could choke.
Sounds like both dogs need to be muzzled whenever they aren't separated by secure babygate/s, etc. I understand your frustration, especially in this emotionally sensitive time after losing Grace. Please try to remain as calm as possible around both dogs, especially Fenway. Any tension between you and your boyfriend will affect the dogs negatively. Try not to worry too much, and let us know how things go.
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Congratulations, and welcome to GT!
Good to turn your back ignoring a hound while he's jumping up. Once hound is calm (4-paws on floor), reward with petting attention. Okay to bend down to dog's level for petting so he doesn't feel a need to jump. Human's calm comings/goings are good.
Prey drive level is different for each Greyhound. Many Greyhounds have never seen small dogs before retirement, so they are viewed as prey. Some Greyhounds eventually relax around small dogs, others don't, especially in an outside setting.
Enjoy your new Greyhound!
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Many excellent suggestions already.
- If entryway is hard floor, place a rubber-backed bath mat down, or area rug with rubber gripper mat underneath.
- She might not have finished doing all her business, and might be hesitant to come in if she's left alone without access to potty outside for an extended time after her walk.
- The door might have knocked into her causing fear. (Watch that her long tail gets inside safely before door is closed too.)
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Oh gosh, sending extra healing strength and prayers to you all.
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I'm sorry for your loss of lovely Lily. How fortunate you all were to have had those years together. It's so hard to lose a family sibling.
Your photos are full of wonderful happy memories that can be cherished for many years.
Godspeed beautiful Lily...
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Happy birthday over the rainbow with your friends sweet angel Grace.
Let your momma feel your happy, loving spirit close to her heart.
You are missed by many...
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Wonderful news, and I'm sure Desi is much happier!
Continued healing thoughts for Desi. 
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We have a couple of extremely paw/nail sensitive hounds. Our most difficult hound to nail trim requires two humans. We go into a carpeted transition room (away from dog's "safe zone" dog beds). We basket muzzle him first. While dog is standing, one person keeps hounds attention by non-stop hand feeding from a big pile of small high value treats that hound never gets any other time. He also holds hound's collar. Second person wears small head/hat light (to help prevent cutting a quick). We don't let dog see/notice the head light. We keep a blood clotting product with paper towels within arms reach, just in case. All of our hounds allow dremeling which is ideal, except this boy. He still freaks if he hears the dremel, even from afar. Another option we reserve for especially sensitive nail clipping times (like if he's been to the vet's office within the month), is smearing peanut butter inside a stool cup in his muzzle.
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This pill popper is a great invention: http://www.entirelypets.com/pillgun.html
Last year I was administering approximately 20+ pills per day to Greyhounds. I've been using these pill poppers for decades with dogs and cats.
I also use Pill Pockets. Our hounds favorite is beef flavor. Capsule size pill pockets offer more product for same money as tablet size pockets. I pull just enough off to wrap each pill. Hint Tramadol tastes very bitter to dogs. Try not to let them bite into it.
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I'm not a vet, but if he continues to appear in strong discomfort, I'd suggest calling an emergency vet with his symptoms (overnight) to ask for guidance.
Whenever he awakens again, good to check his gums to ensure they are normal pink (not too pale, purple or blue). If you press gently on gums with your finger, gums should lighten then return to normal pink.
Try to get a feeling for his body temperature. He shouldn't be too hot or too cold to the touch.
Normal canine temp range is approx. 101-102 degrees.
If you see bloody nose, bloody urine or bloody stool call vet.
Personally, I'd leave his belly area alone (from petting/rubbing), any dog in pain could try to bite if the painful area is touched.
Excellent that your vet evaluated him earlier. Doesn't hurt to become aware of "bloat" symptoms, and if they appear rush him to the closest emergency hospital immediately.
Stomach becomes more distended, especially near the ribs.
A clear sign is vomiting: Dog appears highly nauseated and is retching but little is coming up.
Unable to settle. (But gas, and many other things can cause him to not settle also.)
Please follow your vet's instructions exactly. If a recheck is advised, go to the appointiment the day vet suggests (don't delay it). Watch your hound closely for the next week+ to ensure the critter he ate isn't harboring something dangerous. Please ask your vet when it would be approprite timing to get a fecal test done. It's common for wild critters to be infested with worms and parasites which can be passed into your boy.
Positive thoughts for your handsome new boy to feel better within the next couple of days. BTW, the bond between the two of you will grow immeasurably within the first year, especially as he grows to trust you more and more!
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I agree with you. The group has asked us to foster, both to help them get hounds in our area and to help us find our new one, but hubby is firm. He has mentioned if we had a larger piece of property considering it. I think he is honestly afraid if he agrees to fostering, we'll have 10 hounds:). This is his way of keeping some sanity. If it were all me, there would be none, just a houseful of hounds.
I'm a little confused why agreeing to foster would be committing beyond one or two fosters. If a foster family needs to stop fostering for some reason, they usually can. Since Greyhounds are inside only dogs, I'm not sure why a larger piece of (fenced) property would be necessary. Greyhounds do well with leashed walks.
A middle-aged, independent, laid back boy could work well. Too young might develop into too much pack energy once hound gets comfortable in new home. Temperament is most important when adding to a pack. Some alphas don't do well living with too many dogs, and your current hounds living peacefully is your greatest responsibility to them. In your case, fostering would be a smart option to seriously consider. Many groups frown upon color requests since a proper personality match is top priority. You might get lucky if they offer two hounds from which to select. Good luck!
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I'm so sorry that Luke was so seriously ill. Our deepest sympathy to your housemate and to you for your loss of Luke, such a special and beloved boy. His photo is precious, and a sweet memory.
May he rest with his Greyhound family of angels at the bridge...
(Luke's photo reminds me of our geriatric boy, same age, also struggling with health.)
White Hound, Skin Cancer?
in Health and Medical discussion
Posted
Good question. Excellent suggestion to take body photos. The good news is skin changes are very easily noticed on dogs with thinner (single layer) fur, and light skin. Personally, I wouldn't be overly concerned. Any pets, including lighter colored pets (dogs and cats) can develop sun related cancers. We usually avoid being outside during hottest part of day (strongest sun rays) with Greyhounds anyway. (One of ours developed cancer, known to be caused by excessive direct sun. Our hound's case is assumed to have been caused by excessive years of sun exposure before arriving into late retirement. Small discoloration/growth was noticed quickly with rapid removal.)
Currently (to my knowledge) Epi-Pet Sun Protector is the only "FDA approved" sunscreen for dogs.
Per a conversation with the Epi-Pet manufacturer:
30+ SPF.
Dries quickly, includes coat conditioner (not greasy).
Dispenser distributes from all angles (including upside down for belly/groin).
Water resistant. (Tested effective for 80 minutes in water.)
Reapply approximately every 2 hours.
Per manufacturer: Spray sunscreen directly on dog including belly/groin. Do NOT spray face directly. To treat face/muzzle, spray into human's hand first, then rub sunscreen on muzzle, nose, and ears.
Non-toxic to dog if dog licks dry product. Dries almost instantly.
http://www.epi-pet.com/sunscreen.aspx
(NOT for use on cats.)