3greytjoys
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Prayers that the e-vet can bring down his temperature. Extra hugs to you...
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I am so very sorry. We enjoyed sharing a bit of her later life as your lucky girl.
Godspeed Shelby...
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Just a caution, a Greyhound died from a blockage from ingesting one ladies sock (snagged from the laundry basket)! Every Greyhound is very different - some hounds are only collectors, but many, many more are ingesters of items (chewed up or whole), especially if the hound becomes bored. (Hounds are also notorious for chewing up and ingesting tennis balls, and soft squeaky toys.)
OP, as you are already doing, please be careful to leave only dog safe toys (like Kong or Tuffie toys) when your girl is left unsupervised. BTW, Greyhounds are master paper shredders - keep important checks, mail, documents, etc. out of their reach.
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Oh whew! So thankful Rita will be okay! (I was holding my breath while watching for your update.)
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Thank you so much for sharing this info!
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Welcome and congratulations!A few important tips:- Proper collar fit - Greyhounds' heads are smaller than their necks. Test collar just behind ears to ensure it won't slide off too easily, otherwise Greys can back out of collars.- Immediatly add collar ID info. (with Sharpie on strong tape if nothing else is available).- Keep good hold of the leashed hound in any non-fenced outside settings, including entering/exiting the car and house. Most people use nylon (or nylon + pretty fabric) "martingale" collars. (Examples in pet merchandising section here on GT, or do Internet search for nylon martingale collars.)I agree with previous mention re: introductions away from house in neutral territory. Before allowing any close introduction of dogs, let distanced dogs pee (+poop if needed), and take each dog over to smell the other dog's eliminations. Avoid a full head-on, face-to-face meeting, instead arc around and walk dogs for a bit with plenty of space between dogs (both humans on inside, dogs walking outside of humans), then arc dogs again when allowing them to meet. Important to keep loose leashes (i.e., avoid human placing pressure on dog's neck), but be prepared if quick control is needed. Then, if you have a fenced yard, let the dogs do all their sniffing and eliminating outside before you move dogs inside house.Limit new dog's room space for dog's transitional comfort and housebreaking. We use crates first, thereafter baby-gate hounds into the most used family area room (remember to dog-proof as you would for a TALL puppy (e.g., keeping remote control, cell phones, purses, etc. out of reach, and keep kitchen counters cleared free of any food, including bread or butter. Think of a Greyhound's height when they're standing on hind legs.Very important to ensure your boy gets a vet visit ASAP, including at least 2 fecal tests, (one test now, a second test in several months to detect egg growth undetected in the first test). Is your boy already neutered?I agree with slow food transitions. (We usually take up to a month for a full transition.)I very highly recommend this book for all new Greyhound adopters:If you missed it, here's a recent post that you might find helpful:Oh, and take extra lengthy precautions to keep hound muzzled (and leashed to you at first) around bird. Don't leave hound unsupervised in the room with bird's cage. Teach hound the "leave it" term. Be aware that dogs will jump up to snag even a cat or small dog above dog's head level from human's arms.
Have fun and enjoy your new Greyhound!
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I'm so sorry she wasn't able to improve. Our sympathy to your family during this difficult loss of T-Cup.
Godspeed beautiful girl...
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I think the dosing is one teaspoon for every 10 lbs of body weight but obviously we had successful results with less.
Just to add for new readers: Inducing vomiting is usually considered if dog ingested something soft (like food/brownies). If a dog has swallowed anything sharp, hard, or large enough to cause blockage, call ER ASAP, and do NOT induce vomiting (unless instructed by vet). Some items can do more damage if vomited back up, or can cause dangerous blockages.
OP, hope your dog is okay. Maybe the brownies were burned(?)...
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I respectfully agree to disagree. I'm sad to see that suggestion on a public Greyhound forum.
I wasn't writing about abuse cases, nor was the author of the posted link. Many people would not notice gradual internal damage happening during training sessions or walks. Permanent and progressive medical damage can crop up years later.
I'm sitting here with two retired racing Greyhounds with Laryngeal Paralysis (fully paralyzed throat flaps prevent breathing), and one with nerve damage from the neck through spine and hind legs. They arrived at 5 and 6 years old. The first thing veterinarians warn owners with LP dogs is to stop using collars. I, too, have been training dogs (for 40+ years), and even the most prey driven, high energy Greyhounds that I've encountered have responded beautifully learning to heel with positive methods using gentle (front latch) no-pull harnesses.
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It might help
He's definitely not doing it to spite you. This is a classic sign of anxiety. It sounds like something has re-triggered his separation anxiety, and sometimes we'll never know why this happened. I'd suggest taking a few steps back and go back through the same steps you used to help him with the separation anxiety in the beginning.
Agreed.
When feeling anxious, animals (and people) often need to go potty more frequently than usual.
It seems you're already aware to avoid punishment because that magnifies the dog's anxiety. A "belly band" might help while your boy is adjusting. A belly band can be placed on boys for short periods during humans' absence, then remove band for outside eliminations.
http://www.gemgreyhounds.net/GEM-Store/bad-boy-belly-bands/
If your boy will accept a Kong iced on the inside with peanut butter, or plain yogurt, etc. That might help get him through the most important first 30 minutes of your departure.
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Many people have Greys with small dogs, but small dog's personality/behavior should be compatible with a greyhound's mellow lifestyle for a non-stressful home life. On-going high stress environment can shorten an animal's life. I would strongly encourage positive method obedience training the smaller dog before adopting a second dog.
To answer your question re: running and playing outside together: I'm not a fan of large Greyhounds playing with small dogs outside. I agree that all dogs need to be muzzled when playing, not just one dog muzzled - leaving it defenseless from being attacked by another dog. Even a muzzled Greyhound can harm a small dog by tripping over it, or if excitement unexpectedly elevates to prey drive outside in yard they can harm a small dog with the strength of their legs. Good to remember how fast Greyhounds run, and it only takes a few strides to get to full speed (if they feel like it).
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I assume they are not currently on medications that might be causing diarrhea.
Yes to fecal tests. If you take stool samples, samples should be fresh, less than 1 hour old. Otherwise, fecal samples need to be bagged immediately after dogs' bowel movement, then refrigerated immediately until you leave for vet's office. Place baggies on ice to transport to vet's office.
I would stop all treats, including cheese. Give the gut a rest for 1/2 day to full day, then restart a bland white rice diet, and consult vet. Plain pumpkin (without sugar) is usually okay, but rice has always worked better than pumpkin for us. (Once they are okay back on kibble, you can excitedly offer kibble nuggets as their treats.) Definitely eliminate all common denominator foods they're on now: Possibly Costco canned food?
If no prior diarrhea(?), why were they on rice + hamburger originally?
Parasites and/or other illnesses can cause diarrhea. Only allow them to drink fresh water, sourced from the tap or bottled or filtered.
Avoid Giardia, etc. by not allowing dogs to drink from creeks, lakes, rain puddles, bird baths, fish ponds, an outside water bowl that isn't cleaned daily, etc.
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Batmom: Smart thought for them to consider!
Here's another thread with photos:
ETA: Here's a photo of my hound's old gracilis muscle injury
http://forum.greytalk.com/index.php/gallery/album/3436-3greytjoys/
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If this is the food, I'd look for a new food.
http://www.iams.com/dog-food/iams-veterinary-formula-intestinal-low-residue-canine
Only 257 calories per cup (Yikes, that's very low. Lowest average I've seen ranges 300+. I prefer foods in 400-500 calorie per cup range.)
Poor ingredients that jumped out at me upon quick view were:
Corn
By-products
Ethoxyquin
Following link explains a bit about ingredients. Click links within ingredient section; e.g., by-products = slaughterhouse waste to learn more.
http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-food-reviews/iams-veterinary-formulas-intestinal-dry/
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I'm not a veterinarian, but if my vet were that concerned about a growth, I'd move forward with the vet's recommendation.
We have an 11.5 year old Greyhound who was diagnosed with hemangiosarcoma 2.5 years ago. Post surgery, she's still alive and doing well. The tricky location of her mass (much lower leg) prevented clear margins, so it's still brewing in her body, but much less so than without surgery.
Side note: We have 3 excessive bleeder Greyhounds. If your vet is not aware of using Aminocaproic Acid for certain Greyhounds undergoing surgery, please share a couple of articles from Ohio State University - Greyhound Health and Wellness Website: See article below, and find an additional article in OSU's index: Why Greyhounds Bleed.
Aminocaproic Acid dose is listed under "Treatment and Prognosis" in the following article.
https://greyhound.osu.edu/resources/freeresources/bonecancer/index.cfm
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Agree with John and Giselle. Our senior broodie watches and waits for our unrelated female omega Greyhound to pee first. Broodie MUST then pee over omega's spot. Interestingly, broodie does not pee over her own (mature female) offspring's spots. Neutered males are no problem for broodie and don't need to be trumped. If leash walking off our property, all dogs' pee-mail is up for her interpretation/markovers.
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Congratulations on your decision! As promised, here are tips for early days in your new girl's home: Cats: Be extra careful introducing new hound to a cat. Muzzle hound longer than you think you need to around cat, and keep dog leashed to you, in crate or dog-proofed room for as long as it takes to ensure cat's safety. Don't leave dog and cat alone together! Baby-gate installed about 5"-6" above floor level will help give cat an escape route long-term. Above all, remember Greyhounds are faster than cats!House Training: We take newly retired hounds outside to eliminate approx. every 2 hours during day (awake time) on first day home. Second day extend between 2-3 hours. The first few days are most important for house training. Watch hound constantly during first few days whenever hound is not in crate. They learn house training best by not allowing too much house freedom too soon. Take hound outside upon awakening, and within 10 minutes after meals, and periodically throughout day, especially after naps. Praise happily for good business! Just in case of accident, "Petastic" or another pet solution helps. Greyhounds are very sensitive. Please don't punish. If you "catch" dog having an accident, quickly and gently guide the dog outside. (Watch for dog sniffing floor or circling. Greys don't know how to "ask" to be let outside. Humans' responsibility to provide consistent, well-timed potty schedule. New food/new home = more frequent outings needed. Dog might not potty during every 2 hour outing, it still helps to teach appropriate potty location.)Alone Training: Assuming you work during the week, alone training from the beginning is important. Soon after dog has done business, plan to leave house for short periods (less than 5 minutes at first) leaving dog crated inside your house (or dog-safe confined room). Graduate time as needed so dog begins to feel assured human/s will return.Temperature Sensitivity: Greyhounds are very heat (and cold) sensitive. Please schedule walks only in coolest morning temperatures (best) or late evening in Florida. Paw pads burn on hot pavement (pavement retains heat even after sun goes down). Feel pavement temperature with hand if questionable. New hounds often need to build up walking time gradually to allow paw pads to toughen over time. Their physical endurance is low at first too. (Same temperature considerations for car rides. Inside car temps reach dangerous levels in only a few minutes. If in doubt, please leave dog at home.)Leash: I agree with other poster. Place leash handle on wrist and wrap leash a few times around wrist and/or hand so leash isn't dropped by mistake. Important: Hold excess leash with BOTH hands to keep yourself balanced and to keep dog under control. Stay alert while walking any dog, otherwise dog might see something to chase before you do! Also, ensure martingale collar is snug enough to not slide over hound's narrow head. Collar should need to be "worked" over head to get it off. (Test for fit just behind ears.)
Helps if name sounds different from another animal in family = communication clarity for both animals. Many Greyhounds arrive into adoption groups without knowing any name. If previous "call name" is known, I spend a week or two using a double name: "call name+new name", then drop old call name. They learn quickly.
Considering your boyfriend's strong thoughts re: gender (i.e., keeping peace at home), glad you decided on a girl. Every Greyhound is an individual regardless of gender and both genders can blossom with affection when they trust their humans. All our girls (including fosters) have blossomed into loving companions, as have boys. Have fun with your new girl!
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I respectfully disagree with the previous suggestion of a prong collar.
Greyhounds' necks and throats are even more sensitive than other breeds. Greyhounds have no protective fat layer, no undercoat of fur, and barely any outer layer of fur. These types of collars can cause laryngeal paralysis (paralyzed throat flaps eventually suffocate dogs to death). Neck damage can cause permanent nerve damage that extends throughout the body and into hind legs.
Here's one example of dangers of using prong collars...
"Choke and prong collars are designed to punish dogs for pulling by inflicting pain and discomfort. They can cause serious physical and emotional damage to dogs and should never be used.
The use of choke collars has been associated with whiplash, fainting, spinal cord injuries leading to paralysis, crushing of the trachea with partial or complete asphyxiation, crushing and/or fracture of the bones in the larynx, dislocated neck bones, bruising of the esophagus, bruising and damage to the skin and tissues in the neck, brain damage and prolapsed eyes caused by sharp increases in pressure in the head, and other injuries.
The metal spikes of prong collars pinch the skin around dogs' necks when they pull and can scratch or puncture them. Over time, this can cause dogs to develop scar tissue (which has no feeling) and/or build up a tolerance to the painful pinching sensation and thus continue to pull, making walks even more difficult. Dogs may interpret the tightening of a choke or prong collar around their neck as a stranglehold (which it is, after all!) and become fearful or even aggressive.
The most humane and safest option for walking a dog who tends to want to pull is a front-leash attachment harness, such as the Sense-ation. When dogs lunge or pull while wearing the Sense-ation harness, the front leash attachment redirects them back toward the dogwalker. With patience and positive reinforcement, walks can be a pleasant experience for both human and dog."
http://www.peta.org/about/faq/What-are-the-dangers-of-using-choke-and-prong-collars.aspx
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Oh, I am so very sorry about Remy's diagnosis.
Here are a couple of OSU articles (if you haven't seen them yet). If either link doesn't open, try copy/paste into your address bar.
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I agree that temperature is too hot to run Greyhounds for an extended period. If he hasn't been retired long, good to remember that Greyhounds are short distance sprinters whose races only last 30 seconds (approx. twice a week). Their endurance is very low. Glad you're planning to avoid exercising him when too warm outside.
Also, Greyhounds arrive into retirement with soft paw pads. Pads will slowly begin to toughen with short walks during cooler temperatures (on cool sidewalks). Paw pads can easily be rubbed painfully raw if starting with too long and frequent walks. Pads can be burned raw from hot cement/pavement. Good to check paw pads periodically.
Good links posted above. I second the thermometer suggestion. I believe a dogs normal temp is roughly 101.5. If dog overheats, good to begin hosing down their paws and inside legs to help them cool gradually.
Our own hounds begin showing show heat stress when walking above about 72 degrees.
Just curious about Enzo's age?
ETA: We schedule walks in early morning or late evening during warm weather months for our younger Greyhounds. We also have two Greyhounds with laryngeal paralysis (partially paralyzed throat flaps - limits oxygen intake), so their brief walk is limited to dawn or after nightfall. If they get too warm, their panting becomes very heavy and loud (sounds like a freight train, lasting much longer than the younger hounds). Our two LP hounds are no longer allowed to run.
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Sending heartfelt strength and prayers for Neko. Our hearts go out to you.
Belated birthday wishes to you... I'm glad your mom is there too.
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Whether he was having a nightmare, or hearing something outside, I completely agree with GeorgeofNE about not saying "no". All our hounds dream (and vocalize) in their sleep frequently.
(Completely different situation, but if they bark excessively while awake (rare), we teach "quiet".)
A couple months after we adopted one of our hounds, she had a horrible nightmare (vocalizing more loudly than I've ever heard) while in the family room on a dog bed (on floor). I stayed in the kitchen (next room) whispering it was okay. Once she awoke, I became silent. She looked around the room trying to figure out where she was, until she noticed me in the kitchen. Instantly, she jumped up and FLEW across the room overwhelmingly showering me with kisses and cuddles!! She was clearly over the moon appreciative and SO happy to suddenly remember she was living in a loving family home. I was overwhelmed by her extreme reaction of delight. All our hounds seem to appreciate living in a family home, but that moment was unforgettable from a new, shy (at that time) Greyhound.
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Costco offers a great price on large dog beds. Our Costco has a new orthopedic bed style that looks just like a mini-human mattress. (I haven't tried that style yet, but other GH parents have given it a thumbs up.)
We have eight Costco dog beds (different styles) in the family room at the moment (more elsewhere). We've had lots of Costco beds for many years. (BTW, if older dog beds begin to flatten after several years, two innards can be placed in one cover to beef up thickness.)
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Ari may simply be a slow eater, but here are a few more thoughts...
If her teeth and gums haven't been checked recently, I would encourage it. A painful mouth is a common reason for dogs to be hesitant or take longer to eat kibble.
Many hounds need to do their potty business just before eating a meal.
You are very smart to separate the dogs during meals. It might help to allow Ari to eat in her usual place, and separate the newcomer to another area. Greys can be very sensitive to being relocated to a different room, especially if closed away from their human.
Ari may be feeling sensitive knowing you'll be leaving soon. She may feel more comfortable/relaxed at night knowing that you'll be home for a longer while.
Car Anxiety
in Training and Behavior discussion
Posted · Edited by 3greytjoys
Good suggestions, just a few more to add...
Her anxiety could be worse if her car rides typically lead her to the vet's office. (Not sure why she's going to vet every 2 weeks.) If her health permits, try taking her on more "fun" rides with a more exciting destination pet store (to pick new treat), or leashed walk in a park, or meet another Greyhound owner for a walk, etc.
Feed her meals (in bowl) in the car for several days, but only while the car is safely parked (and only if cool + shady weather, or parked inside garage). Then take her back inside house (no ride). Thereafter, after finishing her meal, add a brief ride down the street and return home within a minute or two, etc. (Please be careful to ensure she is leashed to you so she doesn't escape entering/exiting the car.)
Blankets in cars sometime slide around, increasing dog's fear. You might consider replacing it with something more secure for a moving vehicle. We've had good success with (2"-4") thick dense foam(orthopedic-like) beds that fit snugly wall-to-wall in our SUV crossovers. Dense blocks of foam are fairly secure footing for Greyhounds. (Available at foam shops or pet stores.) We fold down our SUV middle seats also, so hounds have more space.
Many dogs relax with time and patience (when they realize every ride doesn't end at the vet's office). If her medical condition allows, might help diffuse her "ride = vet" association by taking her to a fun destination immediately after each vet appt. too.