3greytjoys
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Posts posted by 3greytjoys
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My advice: Try concentrating your Dremel efforts on the edges of her nails, and don't bear down right in the center (where the quick is). If you grind too much in the center, you can make the nail bleed, and she'll feel the heat of the friction even if you don't actually quick her.
But if you concentrate on going around the outside edges* of the nails, smoothing that down, you can leave the center of each nail--where the quick is--sticking out a bit, where she can wear it down in regular walking. That should help the quicks draw back better.
And if you just smooth around the edges a bit, you actually can do it every couple of days without worrying about quicking her nails and making them bleed.
Quicks grow longer when the nail surrounds that vulnerable tissue and gets long enough to let the quick expand down the center of the nail. But if you can grind back the long nails around the quick, then normal walking should help drive the quick back to match the length you've ground the nail to. At this point, you take more off the edges of the nail and the quick retracts to match.
*Just to clarify, especially for any readers who aren't native English-speakers: the edges is not the same as the sides of the nail. Ideally, the nail has sides, and has a "end"--the flat part that hits the ground when your dog walks. I'm just talking about smoothing and rounding the part where the side of the nail meets the end of the nail.
In addition to KF's reply...
I stop grinding one nail after 3 seconds (so the quick nerves don't overheat from the dremel). Then, I move to a different nail. If more grinding is needed on a nail, I go back to that nail after it's cooled down, later in the session. When trying to shorten quicks, I usually dremel about every 3-4 days (if the nails grow enough to allow it).
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3 Greytjoys
Santa Rosa, CA
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My most sincere thank you to each of you who have responded to all my questions. Every word of every story has been extremely helpful to me, and for others who do a future "search" on Laryngeal Paralysis or Hemangiosarcoma. I'm sure I will re-read this medical thread during my girl's on-going challenging journey.
A special thanks to "BoandLazMom" for adopting a 12 year old sweetheart; and to all who adopt seniors. Every Greyhound is sooo deserving of a loving home as part of a family.
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Regarding the bleeding issue: your Vet should look into Amicar. OSU uses for surgery on greyhounds and we needed to use it on one of my greys after amputation.
Glad you mentioned Amicar. I was fortunate enough to attend a lecture given by Dr. Couto a couple of years ago. (Dr. Couto is one of the best lecturers I've ever seen!)
Oh yes, I am very familiar with Aminocaproic Acid/"Amicar" (trade name). A number of people in our area have been sharing the OSU information with our local vets. I was finally able to get Aminocaproic Acid for my girl's last surgery, but it was days after her surgery. In the future, I will make sure it's in my hands immediately before my hounds' surgery. Especially since "bleeders" can start bleeding during surgery or within several days after surgery. I especially don't want to be in a bind without Aminocaproic Acid late at night after regular vet and pharmacy are closed. Now to try to get our local E-Vet hospital to "stock" it.
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My bridge angel Foxy was diagnosed with LP 2 years before she left us. Interestingly enough she had had a hemangiopericytoma removed 2 years prior to that.
We opted not to do the surgery, mostly because we didn't find a vet who had a lot of experience doing the surgery. We did manage to keep her comfortable and crisis free for those 2 years with only one hospitalization. Keeping her cool was crucial, as was keeping her calm with no trips outside the house as that would get her too excited and made her breathing worse. We inititally treated with benedryl, but had pred on hand to give if the benedryl didn't work.
We learned the hard way not to take her ANYWHERE 6 months later as I had taken her to a friends where we were having a blood donor clinic. The vet techs who ran it were going to do a blood panel on her. I figured we would be okay as medical help was there, and she was familiar with the house and people It turned out to be a really bad move. She got really happy excited, and wouldn't settle down. We gave her some pred which she promptly vomitted. Then her breathing became really laboured. It took her home and when after 15 minutes she didn't improve we took her to an eVet and she was admitted in guarded condition. The next day, our vet sent her home and gave us something to calm her should we ever need it. We never took her anywhere but the vets from then on. She actually did pretty well with her own treatment plan for another year. In the end Foxy left us when her body just gave up at age 13 3/4. Ironically her breathing was fine at the end.
I'm glad you shared this information... We typically travel a good bit (within state) with our hounds. Looks like we'll be homebound as long as is needed to keep our precious and beloved queen momma calm and cool. It's tough (and sad) trying to sneak out of the house for longer walks/outings with the other pups. Shasta doesn't understand why she's suddenly not included in our family pack.
Foxy was a beautiful girl. Looks like she had a long racing career, too. I'm glad she was able to be with you until almost 14.
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My brittany who was in extremely good condition, besides her lp, had surgery for it at age 12. She had nothing but problems afterwards. Before surgery, she would pant a lot when stressed. After surgery, she turned blue and did straight neck wheezing when stressed. I know some dogs do great, but she was never as good after surgery as before. It was almost a relief when she finally passed.
Good luck. And lots of scritches to your puppy.
Oh no, that sounds like torture!! That post surgery situation is one of my concerns, along with the serious risks of surgery, especially with my girl being an excessive bleeder. Do you recall if your Brittany had single or double flap tieback surgery?
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My Onyx was 11 when she had the tieback surgery. She will celebrate her 15th birthday next month.
She does pant a lot but it doesn't seem to interfer with her breathing. She goes out for walks...same distance we've always done. She does get more tired now but heck, she is going to be 15.
We've had to watch what she eats to prevent aspirate pneumonia, but you need to worry about that without surgery too.
I opted for the surgery because my sister's lab also had LP and towards the end it was awful. So many times she sounded like she was on death's door, struggling to breathe. I did not want to go thru that.
I also lost a dog to hemangio. It was of the spleen. She was gone within hours of finding out. Not a hint something was wrong until then.
Good luck in your decision.
Woohoo... Yay Onyx!!!
Happy upcoming 15th birthday!!!If you're willing to answer any more questions....
Did she have single or double tie-back surgery?
Do you happen to know how much "cutting" was done during her surgery, or was it more like just "sewing" flap/s back?
Did you need to elevate her food and water bowls (more than usual)? If so, what height works best for Onyx?
Did she vomit a lot more after surgery? If so, how long did it last? Was she able to keep food and water in her stomach better thereafter?
You mentioned watching what she eats... Is she on a special diet, or do you do something special to her food (eg: soaking regular kibble in water until completely saturated)?
Any aspirate pneumonia scares for Onyx, or has she done well from surgery forward?
I'm so sorry to read about your dog lost to Hemangiosarcoma. I've been trying to learn symptoms for which to watch. From your dog's case it seems like either your dog was extremely stoic (like many), or hopefully it isn't a tremendously painful cancer as it grows. Another friend lost her (non-GH) large dog very quickly to hemangiosarcoma of the spleen.
Thank you again for sharing your valuable experience.
Tracey
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My heart goes out to you and your precious girl. Our Cody had LP and at the same level as you describe. He was 12 when diagnosed, scared to death of being at the vets for anything so we decided not to do the surgery. He was on Rimadyl and tramadol for his disc problem and we opted to just make him comfortable. The most important thing according to our vet is to keep them cool so we had the AC going all the time. We lost him a year ago April at the age of 13 but it was not from the LP. He had developed a mass in his chest.
Good luck with your girl.
Terry
Thank you for responding. I'm so very sorry for your loss of Cody. If you're willing, I'm interested in the following:
If I understand you correctly, Cody's throat paralysis level was near my Shasta's level upon Cody's diagnosis...
Even though he developed the chest mass later, did you notice a dramatic change in his breathing ability during that year?
(I have read that LP is sometimes caused by pre-exisiting cancer in older large breeds. Not a fun double whammy for these poor babies.)
Were you able to walk Cody much during that year or did he lay low relaxing at home?
I'm a bit nervous about walking Shasta too far from home (or car) in case she falls into a crisis mode. (She's almost as large/tall as my boy, she's almost 75 pounds -- so I can't carry her too far!) Thankfully, we've had a cool summer thus far.
Terry, thanks again for helping me/us learn about your experience with Cody.
Tracey
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Tracey...I hope someone has some very encouraging and helpful experiences for you and Shasta.
As always, thank you for your wonderful support (off line), Janet.
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Was the hemangiosarcoma a cutaneous (surface) mass? Those don't often metastasize; surgical removal is usually curative. I can't help with LP but I know some others here can. Hugs and best luck to you and your girl.
No. Unfortunately, the (blood vessel) cancer appeared to extend beyond the surgical margin. I was told masses will continue to recur and is likely already elsewhere in her body.
We are still hopeful that she'll be with us a lot longer... At this point, the LP symptoms are the most restrictive to her quality of life. I'm trying to keep her calm, cool, restricting her exercise, and watching her like a hawk when she's eating or drinking (she coughs and vomits). Vet said to keep her near our local ER hospital in the event she goes into breathing/suffocating crisis and needs their oxygen tank(!).
Thank you for your reply. She's the best girl on the planet (besides everyone else's hounds on this list!).
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Hi,
My (almost) 9 year old broodie has been a fairly loud panter since her adoption 2 years ago. Vet told me not to worry about it 2 years ago.
My girl has been having increasing labored breathing over the past couple of months.
Vet's recent scoping diagnosis: Laryngeal Paralysis.
One side is completely paralyzed, and the other is almost completely paralyzed, just "barely moves."
Same surgical visit: Small mass removed (within 1-2 weeks of surfacing on lower leg). Diagnosis: Cancer; Hemangiosarcoma.
Since it is an aggressive, blood driven cancer, it's likely festering elsewhere; anywhere blood vessels extend throughout the body. We know it frequently targets heart and spleen.
Our surgery challenge: My girl is an "excessive bleeder." Fortunately, the vet was finally able to stop her bleeding enough to let her come home. She began internal bleeding 30 hours after surgery while at home. (This was at night, after vets and compounding pharmacies were closed!). Unfortunately, I was unable to obtain Aminocaproic Acid (to help prevent Greyhound bleedout) during this time. Thankfully, my girl improved over the next 12-24 hours. This time, we were very lucky.
I am interested in hearing from anyone who has personal experience with Laryngeal Paralysis and/or Hemangiosarcoma in Greyhounds. My poor girl already has 3 potentially fatal strikes against her, even if we consider the extremely risky LP surgery! I'm especially curious about life expectancy re: this level of Laryngeal Paralysis, without surgery. I know every case is different, but hoping someone can share their story.
Thank you...
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I'm also strong proponent of using muzzles as a quick, easy safety precaution. They're worth their weight in gold!
We use muzzles for our hounds during all of the following potential risky times...
Inside fenced enclosures.
Multiple hounds in car.
When clipping or dremeling a sensitive Greyhound's nails.
When multi-hound play could escalate inside house.
When cleaning or tending to a wound.
When one hound is injured (or very sore), if in close quarters, all hounds get muzzled. (Any hound in pain is more apt to bite, starting a scuffle if their space is invaded, or they're stepped on by accident.)
Also, other dogs can become more apt to attack if a dog cries out in extreme pain.
Smart to muzzle dog if humans have to move any dog in pain.
Arrival of new fosters or visiting dogs.
When cat or small dog testing, and thereafter during adjustment periods.
(Muzzle guards made to fit on turnout muzzles to help stop hounds from eating feces, licking things, etc. look like a good invention, but I've not tried firsthand.)
Good poll topic, glad this resurfaced!
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I have used heaver weight, large, flat, wooden puzzles with my hounds. The treat motivated hounds love it! They seem to enjoy the busy brain work, and it's a fun game for them. I'm all for anything that encourages mind work and bonding with hounds. (I can see how supervision is important for larger dogs with the Dog Tornado. If left alone, a hound might try to chew and swallow the separate plastic bone part.)
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The girls are the multiple times a day roachers in this house. My boy will only roach about twice a year. He is so reserved, it still brings a big ole ear-to-ear smile to my face when he feels comfortable enough to stick all four legs up in the air. He's finally graduated to giving me brief kisses a few times a year. I do receive daily hugs from him.
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I am so very sorry your sweet girl is going through this difficulty. I'm relieved that she is under close watch veterinary care. Please know that Brandy is in our prayers, and positive, healing thoughts. She is a beautiful girl who sounds like she is extraordinarily special to be a therapy dog.
Wishing you much strength... You've come to the right place for understanding support.
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Yes, I am mainly looking to teach commands that EVERY dog should know for their safety. These include "stay" "heel/dont pull" "come" "down" "leave it" and "wait". If my dog can succsessfully learn those, I will be happy with that. I would be devastated if I had a poorly behaved dog (any breed), or if not knowing a simple command caused an injury or death. To me, obedience (commands I listed above) when asked is an absolute must.
Thanks everyone for your input, it makes me feel better! I was really hoping I didnt have to scratch this breed off my list over this worry.
More advice/input still welcome!!
Greyhounds are VERY smart. My Greyhounds are obedience trained quite well verbally, and with hand-signals. (I taught them everything inside my home.) They will quickly respond to: Come, sit, down, heel, stay, wait, leave it, let's go, off, etc... I just happen to enjoy the special bond and the dog's extra self-assurance that obedience training offers. I agree with you re: safety. It also makes life easier for the dog to understand life living in a home with humans. I've trained many different breeds in formal classes (large and small) and found that Greyhounds are so sensitive and eager to please that they are quite easy to teach. Learning obedience helps keep their minds alert, and enriches their lives which helps any dog feel happier, IMO. All of my Greyhounds sit automatically before every meal, or if I am about to offer treats. They are whistle trained to "come" in the event of an unlikely loose hound emergency (hopefully it will work if they're not chasing something, but recall is never guaranteed in any dog). They respond very well to clicker training, and some Greyhounds (not mine) do advanced agility in a fenced enclosure. I have obedience trained other retired racing Greyhounds as well (ages 1.5 yrs. to 8 years old). The most important things to remember training Greyhounds: Be happy, patient, and use very gentle, positive reward methods only. Keep daily training sessions short 5-10 minutes (a couple of times day). Set them up to succeed with something easy (example: "come" to food). If you show them something they have trouble grasping, take a break until the next day, then try to show them what you want in different still very gentle way (especially with "sit"). Greys can sit just fine assuming they don't have an injury that might make it more uncomfortable for them. (I don't ask mine to sit for long periods of time, since they are more comfortable lying down.)
Sit: If holding a treat over the head and moving back a little near a corner doesn't work... Another method for "Sit:" Be ready to reward them if they are just about to lie down. After they place their rear on the floor naturally as they are about to fall into a lie down position, stand directly in front of the dog and block dog from lying all the way down on the floor; at the same time say "sit" and offer them a treat before they lie all the way down on the floor. This is only a short moment of hesitation for them until your sit request "clicks" in their mind. Be ready to catch them to reward them for their natural "sit" a few times a day. They will quickly learn the connection to their rear being on the floor with the verbal word "sit."
Try not to allow yourself to get frustrated, and never punish any dog for not understanding what you are trying to teach or else the trust relationship will be damaged, and the dog will shut down. Greyhounds are usually so mellow and easy to be around, it's not worth risking your relationship. They need love and understanding.
Good luck with whatever breed you decide to adopt. Greyhounds are one of the best breeds, if not the best breed ever!
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Only one of my three Greyhounds bark. She only barks occasionally when she is trying to tell another hound she wants to play!
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Doubt it. Our 2 raced 120 races each and have very low prey drive. While they would probably chase anything in their yard, it wouldn't be because it was an animal. They like the soccer ball just as much! To your neighbor, I say 'phooey' and suggest they keep their outdoor cats off your property and out of your yard. Otherwise, all bets are off due to their negligence. My cats are indoor cats and I have had both and will never let my cats roam again. Shortens their life span and increases vet bills, not to mention confrontations with neighbors.
Are those Bengal cats? My friends in Florida have them, and they are the coolest kitties I've ever met! Jersey actually plays fetch.
Oh, and yeah, I'm trying to figure out how to get it across that their cats shouldn't be loose outside. We've had conversations about it, but they're like talking to a rock. They essentially say they don't want a litter box in their house. So instead, their cats risk their lives and poop in my garden and potted plants. Great.
Bravo to you for engaging your hound in playful exercise. Your neighbors should have thought of the litter box issue before getting cats, and allowing them to affect other people's property. (I developed a terrible case of ringworm on my face that doctors didn't diagnose for over 6 months! The cause: A neighbor's cat pooping in my garden. I was an avid gardener who didn't always wear gloves. I finally diagnosed it myself, before the Internet.) My cats are toilet trained.
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I believe it depends on the dog. IMO, many "cat-friendly" Greyhounds are not considered outdoor cat safe when off leash in fenced areas. Game on. If your neighbors are concerned, maybe they could consider keeping their cats inside to keep them safe from many outdoor life hazards; or building a cat enclosure in their back yard for kitty outdoor enjoyment. A lot of other dog breeds and other wildlife would kill a cat if given the opportunity. Vets with whom I have spoken recommend keeping cats inside. I've read the average lifespan of outdoor cats is 3 years (with luck, up to 5 yrs.). Average lifespan of inside cats is 14+ years. Your neighbors have a responsibility to keep their own cats safe, and off of your private property. Back to the lure: IMO a fun toy lure does reinforce the Greyhound's natural chase/prey instinct. After all, professional race track lures are mechanical (not live). I'm interested in reading other opinions.
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My girl's dew claws were removed prior to her retirement. (Yay!) She ran a full racing career. Both of my other Greys dew claws are in tact. My boy ripped one of his while running/playing outside; then, the E.R. visit (hearing him scream and cry from the back patient room as they "short clipped" it), and $250.00 later, it grew back for another potential rip! I wish they were all removed, but I understand it's like an amputation of bone.
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How fortunate to have these great pictures of your gorgeous boy offered to you, along with a bit of his history! Congratulations to Ringo's new parents!
I too was thinking roof top luggage storage + 1 extra Greyhound.
I'll give you ONE guess as to who this is:
Ringo spent sometime racing for us and while here, I was able to get these pics of him. He spent the majority of his career racing in Orlando... they took REALLY good care of him while there and I told everyone when he got back to our farm, "He looks like he just came out of our kennel."
Here's a link to Ringo's races... Pak Sgt. Pepper
Congratulations on adopting a truly sweet and special boy
Vibrating Jaw
in Training and Behavior discussion
Posted
It sounds like he's a very happy boy in his new loving home! Many Greyhounds do some version of this behavior (including chattering teeth) when they feel extra happy and comfortable with their family. Have fun with your new boy!
My boy ranges from a vibrating jaw (as you described) to a full teeth chatter. Some Greyhounds also "smile/grin" by lifting their lips up showing their teeth when they are happy. One of my hounds does this upon awakening to greet me each morning. It's adorable... she makes my day!