3greytjoys
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Tracy, I'm not sure if you'll see this since you mentioned signing off. It could make a difference for Bo if you decide to work through this early, common noise issue.
"Manners Minder" is a remote controlled training treat device invented by veterinarian/certified applied animal behaviorist, Dr. Sophia Yin. (Sharper Image company contacted her to design a device for dog owners who have barking and unruly dogs.) If Bo is food driven, this could help speed his improved behavior during your absence. Dr. Yin is a scientist and dog behavior trainer so this device's instructional DVD offers more extensive foundation training techniques than just a few limited steps. The short video (below) shows unruly barking dogs when the doorbell rings, etc. Of course, we would never want to leave any door open with Greyhounds in the house, but this device can be applied to excessive barking/whining during absences (and many other behaviors). It can automatically offer treats "triggered" by quiet behavior.
Manners Minder video: http://drsophiayin.c..._train_overview
If interested, here is a purchase source: http://www.entirelyp...CFUk0QgodAxkAEQ
You're smart to not walk Bo too long in warm temperatures. Greys are temperature sensitive, and overheat easily in warm weather. Glad you're alert to his signs of being too tired (excessive panting, etc.). Bo may already be fine to walk longer by now, but being short 30 second sprinters, newly retired hounds need to build up walking endurance slowly over time. Also, while they slowly toughen up their (initially soft) paw pads for walking on cement sidewalks, etc. Always good to view paw pads periodically, especially if hound begins to slow, dread/refuse walks. (Mildly hot sidewalks can burn pads.)
Good luck with whatever you decide for Bo.
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Great advice from Susan (George of Noo England).
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Many Greyhounds need a potty break mid-day. 8 hours is too long to leave many hounds, especially a new hound who is trying to adjust to a new home. They often can't "hold in" urine and bowel as well when they are stressed. Your hound may be whining about being alone, and/or may really need to get out to potty. (Some adoption groups require hounds be let out every 4-6 hours during the daytime.) If his poops are not solid yet, that could be another factor, trying to hold in diarrhea/soft poop isn't easy. I agree with morning exercise, and at least 2 potty breaks before you leave the house for work.
Please contact your adoption group ASAP for help re: this issue, and to chat about alone training. They may be able to suggest another nearby Greyhound owner who could allow your hound into their home during your work day. Then you could work on alone training on weekends and evenings. Or maybe a nearby Greyhound owner who could drop by to take your hound out at lunch time (if you can't get home mid-day).
Please don't use any type of electronic collar on a Greyhound.
Good luck.
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I agree to get another fecal test done. Worms grow in stages so may have been undetectable on first fecal test. Also, if hound was allowed to drink water from a creek//lake/puddle/flower pot, or other natural water source, hound could have picked up Giardia.
Unfortunately, Iams is full of "by-products", and corn, and other very undesirable food ingredients. http://www.iams.com/...ction-adult-dog
A healthier food option that is excellent for firming up many Greyhounds' stools is "California Natural". California Natural results seen in hounds (that are worm/parasite free) are:
Solid poops, much smaller poops, no gas.
Other benefits:
One example: Chicken and rice caloric value is excellent at 511 calories per cup of kibble.
Higher calories per cup means less quantity of daily intake to maintain healthy weight.
These simple ingredient foods are also good for hounds with food allergies.
Made from USA sourced ingredients (one exception: Lamb is from New Zealand).
(Ingredient sources are important because some U.S.A. pet food companies (including Iams) have experienced many recalls during recent years due to sick/dying dogs from dangerous ingredients imported from China.)
Here is an ingredient list of California Natural - example is Chicken and Rice
http://www.naturapet.com/products/1191
(I think Lamb seems to taste more flavorful to hounds.)
As others mentioned, gradual food changes are recommended.
Good luck with whatever you decide for your new hound.
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May I ask why both of Hester's hocks are wrapped?
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OMG, Lindsay, I am horrified for Rogan, and for you!!! This is soo deeply upsetting on many levels. Nothing will reverse their massive mistake for poor Rogan.
Given the circumstances, I probably would have been more upset if they didn't go ahead with amputation of the correct toe during same surgery. It's my understanding that anesthesia builds up in a dog's body over his/her lifetime. Requiring a second fix-it surgery could have been more risky for Rogan.
Like Bumper's dad (?), I've been too scared to schedule our girl's amp. yet. In an attempt to avoid repeating Rogan's horrific nightmare, I think I'll paint our girl's toenail bright pink before her toe amputation. (They already X-rayed the wrong leg/toe.)
I'm glad Rogan is seeing your regular foster hounds' vet tonight. I hope you can get another pain med to add to Tramadol. I hope your poor Rogan heals rapidly. Empathetic hugs to you both.
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Dog puzzles (made for large dogs) are a nice brain stimulator for supervised sessions. Wooden puzzles are usually stronger/safer than plastic.
http://www.amazon.co...k/dp/B003F1JYCQ
http://www.entirelypets.com/treatwheel.html
We practice "come" recall training inside for special treats. I go into another room, blow a whistle (like PE teachers use) and immediately say "(dog's name) ____ + come". I couple the verbal call with this whistle because the sound carries farther if needed in an emergency loose hound situation outside. It's easy to keep an extra whistle in cars, or wear around human's neck. If traveling, it's easy to find/buy a whistle.
(BTW, we DON'T use a squawker for recall training. GH racing trainers have already done a superior job teaching squawker use with MUCH higher GH rewards. Reason we save squawkers for emergency use only: Some retired hounds can become desensitized to squawker sound if overused with lame rewards and without the racing chase. Retired Greyhounds don't need any "practice" with squawkers, they usually respond to a rare squawker sound forever, even if they haven't heard one for years.)
Jimbuck offered good suggestions, along with playing general hide and seek in different rooms for treats.
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Just checking back in on Rogan today. Hoping all went well with his toe amputation surgery.
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Positive thoughts for Rogan's successful surgery on Thursday.
Facing a similar surgery here. Tips several people mentioned to me:
Ask vet to amputate toe completely back (far enough back so hound doesn't painfully rub remaining tip of digit on the ground when he stands/walks).
Also, round off the bone, so it's not a sharp point that could penetrate through skin later.
You'll both be in our positive thoughts. Try to relax and breathe as much as you can. Love that last photo, what a handsome boy!
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I am so saddened to read that Ekko has crossed the bridge. You were wonderful to welcome her into your home, giving her a loving life she so deserved. She will be missed by so many of us. Thank you for sharing your favorite pictures and special memories. You are in our thoughts...
Godspeed beautiful and unique Ekko.
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I would not expect any dog to be comfortable outside during fireworks. Maybe just my luck, but none of my dogs have ever been comfortable with fireworks (many dogs/decades).
A friend's Greyhound panicked during fireworks while inside the house, ran out the dog door, panicked more in fenced yard, scaled over the 6' fence, panicked while racing down the street trying to escape the noise, and was killed by a car. All within minutes before the owner could capture the hound.
If unable to be inside a solid walled structure, I agree with driving your hound around (far away from fireworks display), and using well fitting harness, plus a well fitting martingale (collar not loose enough for hound to back out). When fitting Martingales, good to test "fit" of Martingale at most narrow part of neck, just behind the ears. Collar should not go over head without work.
Others may have had better luck with cotton balls. We tried the cotton ball idea with our hounds locked safely inside the house with us, and with calming meds. (Melatonin), music, etc. Seems our hounds' hearing is too keen for cotton balls to have been very effective. We have best success with calming meds, + music + white noise (from loud room fans turned on high).
That said, as you can see from these posts every hound's reaction is different.
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Thanks for your link, KsFrets. Can anyone please look on their "Finest" brand label to see if it states "naturally derived"? (I called Walgreens to learn whether their store brand: "Finest" is "naturally derived". I was told someone could call me back in 3-4 days with an answer. (Whatever the reason, it's no longer available through Walgreen's on-line WebSite.)
To OP: Along with potentially helping calm hound for fireworks, it wouldn't hurt to try Melatonin for separation anxiety (if no interactions with vet prescribed medications). I'd suggest administering Melatonin at least 1 hour before dog would begin feeling anxious from departure triggers (including early triggers like human's shower, etc). If hound has a chance to go above comfort threshold before receiving Melatonin, it's less likely to have a positive affect on hound.
Personal side note (separate from SA and noise phobic hounds): Cosmetically, we embrace bald thighs because every drug/hormone supplement isn't without risk. Long term use could potentially change the hound's own body/brain hormone production (including supressing the hound from making it's own Melatonin), which could disrupt hound's overall healthy brain/body balance. (If on Melatonin long term, I understand it's safer to taper off slowly rather than stopping cold turkey.)
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IF your hound is on any other medication, please check with your veterinarian before offering Melatonin.
Veterinarians told me to buy "naturally derived" Melatonin when using for dogs. Contrary to the other poster's experience, we've had good luck with Nature Made (and it is naturally derived). Available at most drug stores, Target, K-Mart, etc..
We limit dogs' Melatonin treatment to high stress occasions (like fireworks). We give 6 mg. to our female hounds (weight range 50-75#) about 75 minutes BEFORE expected fireworks. Our most noise phobic male gets 7.5 mg. (If time, you might try 3 mg to watch your hound's reaction to the drug before July 4th, but you will need higher dose for real fireworks.)
Just before fireworks start, we turn on fairly loud smooth jazz music + room air fans turned on high speed for "white noise." Keeping hounds in center house, or opposite of noise side of house (away from windows) helps too. Constant music with many chord changes works better here than TV. TV has too many silent pauses between words.
(As a human comparison, a physician advised 1.5 mg as a small to average woman's dose to aid sleep without being too groggy the next day. Clearly, that isn't enough for a highly stressed hound during fireworks.)
Here is a Melatonin link for humans that discusses side effects and drug interaction cautions:
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Here is Dr. Stack's helpful link re: Lumbosacral Stenosis in Greyhounds:
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I agree with most info in above posts, especially the Kong (iced inside with peanut butter) as her "special" treat at every departure. (Pick up Kong immediately upon your return, and wash with soap/water daily.) She's more likely to look forward to that as her alone time special treat.
Two things to add...
If you baby-gate her inside the kitchen/dining area, please place a thick comfy bed for her to lie down. Greys don't have extra fat, so thick beds are important for them. If you have a Costco warehouse store near you, they sell large, thick dog beds for $18 to $25. (Great price for adding extra dog beds in other rooms too.)
Whatever you decide, please consider leaving the crate set up with door open in most human used room. Feed all her meals in open door crate so she won't be scared that she will be locked in/left alone. Days later, slowly begin closing crate door only while she's eating her meal (while you're in same room). Open door immediately when she finishes meal. Later, extend closed door time for a couple of minutes at a time. Other times, crate door mostly open. Eventually she will view her crate as her happy, safe, private resting space.
I believe it's very important for dogs to feel comfortable in crates. Every dog needs veterinary care, and may need to be kenneled for owner's vacation/s. Hounds who view crates as happy places often fair MUCH better when crated in veterinary offices before/after surgery procedures. It's particularly important for hounds to be as calm as possible before undergoing anesthesia. Veterinary offices are already stressful, forcing a crate fearful hound into a crate compounds their stress/anxiety level.
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I agree with PrairieProf. I'd remove the tape that is covering her nose + above her nose. Also watch her when she's lying down while you're testing it, the muzzle gets pushed around a bit when they're resting against their bed or floor.
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If the new "pet resort" allows, great to take him over for visits (with you) a couple of times long before you leave. Good to take his regular food when you're dropping him off for your real vacation.
ETA: Hounds often appreciate their own comfy bed (and scent) from home too.
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I agree with microchipping Greyhounds. I've been having my animals chipped for decades without any problems (including excessive bleeders). I started the microchipping program for our Greyhound group (and other GH groups). No hounds that I've seen have had any problems from a microchip. I'm not saying it's impossible, but I've yet to run across a problem. I have seen MANY, MANY Greyhounds get loose.
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I'm glad your boy is doing better now.
Hard floors can be an ongoing challenge for many hounds. If your hound continues to be cautious, another option (until finances permit) might be to check your closets, garage, storage for any long forgotten rubber-backed bath mats. Many new adopters have borrowed used rubber-backed mats/rugs from family, neighbors, or purchased at garage sales.
Beyond being able to walk safely and confidently through a house, eventually Greyhounds often do indoor "zoomies." Cheap rubber "rug grips" (home depot, etc.) can be placed under runner rugs to prevent serious injury from rugs sliding out from under the hound. This could save a very expensive surgery (or worse).
I'm glad you were there to help your boy when he slipped, and happy he's feeling more confident again today.
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I'm wondering, is there any way I can keep him cool when we do go for car rides? I drive an old car without A/C in Florida, so even with the windows open, it isn't very cool. He pants but he never seems to get too bothered, but if I can make him more comfortable, I'll definitely go out of my way. It's just really important for me to take him with me when I go places.
To answer your question:
I recommend always keeping at least 2 gallons of fresh bottled water, and a dog bowl in the car.
A portable fan, if you can find a car plug-in type. (Batteries can explode if exposed to high temperatures.)
A squirt bottle to wet his neck, arm pits, paw pads and groin if he gets overheated.
A loose cooling bandana might help a little.
Window tinting helps, and sun shades help a little.
A cool (not cold) wet towel could be used if he were seriously overheating (hyperthermia), but if it's too warm outside he should be left at home. (Remove cool wet towel within about 3 minutes, once dog's body has warmed towel.)
I'd be cautious about taking a hound out unnecessarily in an unairconditioned car if temps are in 80's or higher. Sitting in a traffic jam worsens the heat effect. The main question is what happens when the car stops moving? I assume he gets leashed to go with you as soon as the car is parked.
Greyhounds should not be tethered to any object outside (besides a human). If they "sight" something of interest (a piece of litter in the wind, a squirrel, etc.), they can gain full speed within 3 strides, and if tethered, can break their neck, choke to death by their collar, or damage their body if in a harness.
Not sure if you've thought about what you would do with your Greyhound if your car broke down on a hot day. Even if you have an emergency auto service, they could take an hour to arrive. (Keeping a car in good running condition becomes more important when you transport dogs and/or children.)
Unfortunately, it's not a good idea to open car windows too much. Many dogs jump out of wide open car windows whether car is moving or stopped.
Even allowing a dog to stick his/her head out a partially open window is dangerous. Most of us have had small rocks or road debris fly up and damage our windshield, imagine if a rock hit a dog's eye (blindness, surgery cost, etc.)
Slamming on breaks while dog's head/neck is perched outside window can be harmful too.
I completely understand that you want to take your hound with you, and you are dealing with separation anxiety, but your hound's life could depend on it. The flip side is summer is a great time for him to become accustomed to learning it's okay to stay home on hot summer days.
I usually don't recommend the following for a new hound in a new home because there is a natural adjustment time for each hound, but as a last resort, after you practice careful alone training (with peanut butter in Kong, etc.), if he's still having difficulty, you could ask your vet for a calming medication. If medication is used, it must be coupled with additional alone training to be effective.
Please take a peek at this thread re: dogs in cars during summer:
http://forum.greytal...ws-rolled-down/
BTW, I don't recommend cooling coats. As far as I know, they are not scientifically proven to help, and some may worsen the dog's heat problem. Others may have additional cooling suggestions too.
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Greys are built differently from other dogs. Many Greyhounds can "sit" but some Greys may have had a racing injury that makes it painful. Those hounds should not be asked to "sit". Some hounds can "sit" for very short periods (their legs might shake, which is a clue to not force it for long periods). Other hounds are fine sitting for a slightly longer periods. Teach on carpet (not bare floor).
Try to set your hound up for success. Please do not use physical force with Greyhounds.
Here are two methods that can work well for Greyhounds.
1. When a hound is lying down, offer a special treat by showing it to hound, then slowly lift treat up above hound's head. Some hounds will gently move into a partial sit position as their head follows the treat. Once they are in position, immediately say the word "sit" as you give treat and verbally praise, praise, praise. After they connect the feeling with the word "sit" begin asking for a "sit" daily (before they are in sit position), but not for long sessions. They get bored very easily.
2. (My favorite method.) Watch for the hound to walk over to lie down naturally. (This is easy with Greys!)
Get ready with treat in hand, and quickly move closer to hound.
Once hound's rear end touches the carpet or bed, you move in to stand directly in front of the dog's body. Your body is blocking the hound (into a natural sit) while preventing dog from lying all the way down. Immediately say "sit" and treat the dog, and praise, praise, praise.
Do this whenever the dog goes to lie down naturally, and the hound will learn "sit" in no time!
If desired: A clicker can be used if you want to "click" immediately when the hound's rear end touches the ground (or dog bed), but just treating with food works fine in most cases.
I've had a number of hounds that do a side sit vs. a straight sit. This is fine as far as I'm concerned considering a Greyhound's body design. Many times they will eventually do a straight sit on their own if it's comfortable for them. Other hounds I teach a straight sit from the start. Greys learn differently than most breeds. Adapting with gentle, positive training is sooo important with Greys.
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I'm so glad Mandy is doing as well as she appears post surgery. Her paw looks so much better than I expected! Thank you so much for posting Mandy's experience and photos. We are facing a similar surgery in the coming weeks. Mandy's paw photo helps ease my mind.
Positive thoughts for her successful and rapid healing. Hang in there as you continue to help her through her recovery. I was surprised that others mentioned recovery is only a couple of weeks. If she continues to be in pain, maybe your vet would be willing to increase her Tramadol (if safe to do so with her other meds).
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My greyhound Archer, who is newly rescued (nearly 2 months at home), started off very mild, house trained, sweet, and a great listener. Now that he's learning more about being a dog and having some amounts of freedom, things have gotten a bit out of hand. I believe a few turning points have caused him to start acting uncharacteristically:
Welcome to GreyTalk! Congratulations on adopting your new Greyhound boy, Archer!
Thank you for asking for help. It is fairly common for hounds in a new home to feel a bit of anxiety. It would be helpful to learn more about your mention of his possible turning points.
I agree to begin baby steps with "alone training". (You can try doing a search on GreyTalk for more info. or a general Internet search "Greyhound alone training".) Things like desensitizing him to your keys by picking them up and putting them down many times per day when you aren't leaving, etc.
Seems your boy is already accustomed to being invited to go with you most of the time, so he's not understanding why he's being left behind on rare occasions.
(Thank you for not taking him in the car when it's hot. Greyhounds are extremely temperature sensitive, and too many dogs die in hot cars.)
Your boy might not be fully eliminating before your departures. (Not sure if you're walking him or letting him out in a fenced yard to potty before you leave, but many dogs hold back a little reserve for outside marking purposes while on walks. After a neighborhood walk, you might see if he'll do a longer pee in his own yard.)
A dog who feels anxious often needs to eliminate more. Since he's reacting to your departure triggers (keys, etc.) Try giving him more opportunities to potty in between what he may perceive as triggers: i.e., before you shower, and again immediately before you leave the house. Also, please understand when a dog is feeling anxious, the dog does not have his/her own normal, non-stressed physical ability to hold urine and bowel.
**Please do not reprimand a dog for anything he does stemmed from FEAR.** (Anxiety is fear based.)
The dog will not understand, and it will magnify problems. It will be extremely detrimental to your relationship. The dog will lose "trust" and will become a hundred times harder to regain that lost trust.
Greyhounds are very sensitive dogs, and respond best to encouraging, positive training methods. Maybe another local GTer will respond to recommend a gentle "positive method" trainer in your area. If not, we will try to help from afar.
I was concerned to read that your boy was running down the street away from you. Since I don't know how much you already know about Greys... Greyhounds are sighthounds, often with tunnel vision. They're bred to sight and race towards movement very far away. They should only be allowed outside in a fully fenced enclosure, or be leashed to their person. They don't have a homing instinct, or any experience living with a family, living around cars, neighbors' small pets, or responding to human obedience commands. If they get loose, they often keep running until they are completely lost, or killed by a car, etc. Glad you mentioned teaching recall. Teaching recall inside a home or fenced enclosure is very important as a safety precaution, but many Greyhounds will not respond in an open setting with distractions, even after being with their humans for years, so it's never a 100% guarantee. Again, still very important to teach "come".
If you haven't read it yet, I'd recommend reading Retired Racing Greyhounds for Dummies, by Lee Livingood. It's an excellent, easy to read book (required reading by some Greyhound adoption groups).
Many Greyhounds take a while to adjust to living away from a racing kennel environment. Please try to be patient with your new boy as he tries to learn about this brand new life in a family home.
BTW, a baby-gate in the most lived-in room (maybe a family room and kitchen area) is a nice option to help limit Archer's space, and to use while you're doing alone training. (Good to not let him follow your every-single-move to the bathroom, closet, etc. This way he sees that you can leave the room without him, and you return a minute or so later.) I recommend installing the baby-gate about 5" above floor level so your cat can escape underneath, if needed. Glad your hound is getting along well with your cat, but I would be very cautious about leaving a cat alone with the hound yet. It's still very early in his retirement.
Here is one (of many) sources:
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Not sure of your dremel type, or how long it takes. If standard dremel, it's important not to dremel one nail any longer than 3 seconds. If longer than 3 seconds, the dremel heats up the nail too much becoming very painful to the sensitive quick. Better to stop at 3 seconds, move on to other nails (until the first nails cool), then go back to finish. Also, I think there is a pre-quick they feel before we would see any blood.
Just a thought, that may be why your hound is now trying to communicate (painful) displeasure.
Most of our hounds stand for nail dremeling (only one that doesn't now is our eldest senior). For our most nail sensitive hound, a second person holds his collar while keeping his attention by feeding non-stop yummy treats (reserved for nail time) through a muzzle. The other hounds get yummy treats intermittently through session and thereafter. I use a headlamp/flashlight to see the nails really well. We don't push limits with a cautious hound, it could magnify their displeasure further damaging future sessions. Better to do as others mentioned by limiting to one or two nails every couple of days.
Good luck.
Little Dogs And Greyhounds
in Training and Behavior discussion
Posted
I agree that with care, many Greyhounds are fine inside a home with a smaller family dog. Many Greyhounds are fine with family indoor cats too. Outside ("game on") environments become more questionable for many Greyhounds + any smaller animal/s. Some people manage greatly different sized family member animals by letting them take turns outside in their yard.
Personally, I would consider a 1 year young, 8 pound dog similar to a young, energetic cat (+ barking to play). A darting small dog could be hurt even inadvertently by a speeding/zooming Greyhound outside, even if a lower prey hound viewed smaller family dog as playmate vs. prey. If it were me, and I really wanted another Greyhound, I would keep their outdoor playtime separate for safety. If you just want a true playmate (to run outside) with your Poodle, a similar sized smaller dog would be safer. Just my opinion.
Apples to oranges comparison: An energetic kitten can be harder on Greyhounds because they climb and knock large things over on resting Greyhounds, plus kittens streak around inside the house lightening fast! Escape routes, like a baby-gate raised 6" off floor level, has saved our cats from our Greyhound pack many times. All the hounds still try to chase the (indoor only) cats and the youngest cat is (finally) 3 years old. Our Greyhounds now range in age from geriatric seniors to 4 years old.) Bottom line: IMO, a small dog is definitely doable (and easier than cats) with Greyhounds. Only you will know what you are willing to manage.