3greytjoys
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An injured paw might slow him down a little, but probably a good idea to keep him on leash when outside for a few days until he transitions. Be extra careful to keep him leashed with you if thunder/lightning or fireworks are possible during his outings. (I've had energetic fosters attempt to jump a 6' and 8' fence.) We have a 4' secondary inner fence that separates their potty area. That has been okay after they have adjusted, but they don't see wild critters from there.
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Welcome to GreyTalk! How exciting that Talos will be home soon! Great name too.
My guess is that he will be a wonderful Greyhound. Not all hounds are candidates to graduate from a prison program. Wow, how fun that your first hound is a smiler!
One our girls awakens each morning with the cutest toothy grin, excited about life. It's a bright way to begin our day. Greyhounds are the easiest breed I've ever had. You might ask your group if they hold Greyhound only play dates, or group walks. They enjoy seeing other Greys periodically after retirement. Many hounds learn things quickly. My general suggestion is to think about training in ways he does things naturally. In other words, catch him doing something right, put a word to it, and reward with treats. Alone training in very short sessions gradually extending time will be helpful too. Above all have fun with your new boy once he arrives!
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To clarify: I simply meant for general animal control: Farm owners, nor professional race tracks want to lose their Greyhounds to escape. I agree that they keep them within fenced collective control for many reasons.
Silverfish: Everyone's varied experience is important for all of us. We all learn a lot here, myself included. You have much helpful experience to share, and you were not in mind when I posted. Again, just general terms.
KickReturn is right about focusing on factual content, that's what helps all our Greyhounds.
I have deleted my previous mention re: GAA help.
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Common dog injuries noted in my previous post (page two of this thread) are from 50+ years of actual dog experience, not "what if" thoughts. I've known of dogs who experienced each of those situations in hiking environments. Also, our region happens to be home to mountain lions, and other predators that attack dogs. Off leashing is against the law for dogs' own safety (and wildlife, humans, and others' pets). I believe it's more dangerous for retired racing Greyhounds to be loose on hikes than other breeds because they can run 45 mph catching a leg in a wild animal's hole, etc. It's a challenge to get our thin-skinned hounds to stop bleeding from a small nick or ripped toenail at home, not to mention a serious puncture or large tear from a fallen tree while hiking. Heck, Greys try to walk on backyard pool surfaces as if it were solid ground.
Dogs think like 2-3 year old children, if they're loose off-trail how can an owner stop them from grabbing a poisonous snake as if it were a play toy? (Been there with a large rattlesnake, and was able to stop the dog (different breed) only because I saw snake immediately on open trail path.) Very common for dogs (including Greyhounds) to die from poisonous snake bites. Especially dangerous if a large-hearted athlete like a Greyhound is bitten. Difficult (if not impossible) to slow their blood pressure during exercise to slow venom absorbtion. We have a thousand times more control when dog is leashed. If one attempts to keep a loose dog mostly near or on trail anyway, why not leash(?)...Greyhound farms have "fenced" runs/kennels. Professional race tracks are "fenced". If racing Greyhounds (sighthounds) were so trustworthy, professionals wouldn't need fences for them. Retired racing Greyhounds are independent thinkers that do not typically respond to human commands the same way other "human focused" working breeds respond to humans. I know a few GH exceptions with extensive training, no one can change instinct. There are important reasons behind each Greyhound adoption contract clause, each is intended to protect the animal. Adoption groups can legally reclaim Greyhounds when deemed necessary. It happens more than one might think.Most respectfully, my grave concern is about over-glorification of off-leashing a rare handful of hounds on a large public forum. Many first-time Greyhound adopters think Greyhounds are just like other dogs. They are not. Newbies may not understand the years of extensive recall training and obedience work a few individual owners on this forum do with their own single hound or two. There are thousands of readers on GT who did sign a legally binding contract. Seems a disservice to sway them otherwise, especially when their Greyhound's life could be at stake.Excellent post, MaryJane. Thank you for posting it.Edited to delete a clause. -
I'm very much NOT a fan of off leash for most dogs, most owners, most places. There are some exceptions but not many.
If you must do it, please don't do it around other dogs who are leashed. It's rude and causes problems for other people. Again with few exceptions (like 1 in 1,000,000), your dog is never as well behaved as you think s/he is.
Agree with Batmom and PiagetsMom.
Preparation can be done for every situation. Except for the one situation where the dog doesn't recall. If you've participated in even one greyhound Amber Alert, you know that heart-in-your-throat feeling that doesn't leave until the dog is captured (if it is). For me, off-lead is just not worth the risk.
As an avid hiker, and a Greyhound search team leader who has seen far too many Greyhounds take off, never to be found. I whole-heartedly agree with Batmom and FiveRoooooers.
Too high risk for beloved Greyhound lives. Loose Greyhounds place other animals at risk, and humans who get caught between dogs, not to mention owner liability. No human knows what their dog will do in every situation.
In my experience, hiking with leashed Greyhounds is great fun, much more safe, and greatly lessens medical risks of a hound injury. Common injuries for loose dogs are broken leg, open wounds, lethal snake bite, tick borne diseases, tick paralysis, poison ivy/oak, and myriad of diseases and parasites dogs get given opportunities to snack on tasty wild animal excrement. I saw a loose dog slip on wet rocks while trying to cross a shallow point of a creek/river only to get swept away. Watch those cliffs -- Hounds are used to running on solid ground in front of them. Same with bodies of water on the far side of vertical banks. Greyhounds have no reason to think they can't walk on water. After a dog wanders off-trail in deep brush/overgrowth, up mountain sides, good to consider how human would access injured dog, and carry a large, (resistant) Greyhound in extreme pain (broken leg/snake bite/bloody side ripped open) a lengthy distance over challenging terrain. If dog took off ignoring owner, how far/difficult would it be for owner to return to the region to search by foot every day for weeks, months or longer, not to mention the stress level, worry and heartache.
Not worth the risks to us... Greyhounds can have a blast hiking by our sides on leash, or running and playing in fenced enclosures, and resting when they tire out. Since we have hounds at different activity levels, we plan different outings for each.
Newbies: I would never fully "trust" a Greyhound. Greytalk's Greyhound Amber Alert lists many, many senior Greyhounds (9, 10, 11, 12+ years old) who were deeply bonded and loved by their family for many years when they took off. Many of those hounds were victims of "trust".
BTW, if crossing leashes is a problem there are easy remedies for that.
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Yea, I'm happy she made it through surgery! Your poor baby girl. I bet those teeth hurt. I wouldn't be able to eat with those either. Positive thoughts for Passion's rapid recovery. I imagine she'll be excited to eat pain free again!
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So as an update, she does the bell thing VERY WELL! Not only does she use it when she's gotta go, but when she wants to take a walk
I would have NEVER thought it was that darn easy to teach her but it really was! Congratulations! She sounds like a very smart girlie, and I'm sure she will appreciate her new, clear method of communication with you.
I'm sure you'll figure this out, but whenever you are about to do something important and don't want to be disturbed, an outing before a hound's bell demand can be a good thing. Murphy's Law is the most determined bell ringing happens just after sitting down to human's warm dinner, or making an important call, etc. Our hounds have also learned the
butler'sdoor person's "I'll be right there" in a high happy voice.Hope you and your smart girl have fun with other training, games, and activities too. They love to use their minds after they retire from their previous racing jobs.
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As others mentioned, heat is a strong possibility. Some dogs are fearful or uncomfortable around fans. If you have a TV in the bedroom, some hounds are highly sensitive to TV/movie special effects or volume.
Side note: If your rugs are not permanent, please consider buying runner rugs and separate rubber rug gripper mats to place underneath, or get rubber-backed area rugs. Greyhounds can have dangerous, even deadly falls on hard surface floors. Blankets or rugs without rubber backing can become flying magic carpet rides... smack into a wall.
Congratulations!
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Congratulations on your new Greyhound!
Smart to use a crate when cats are involved during a newly retired hound's adjustment period. Yes to an appropriately sized strong metal crate (includes secure top). (No soft-sided crates that savvy hounds can rip open in seconds.)
We are pro crates for many reasons, and use them for fosters, new adopters' homes, and for our own younger hounds for their own safety and cats' safety. We have to have crates for our "cat workable" fosters.
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Many vets have taught me the same thing about avoiding bones, Bully Sticks, rawhide, pigs ears, hooves, antlers, etc. (I concur.)
I've read/seen many news reports about risks of ordering medications on-line (for pets or humans). Here are a few things to consider before buying medications on-line:
1. Buyer beware: No guarantee the medications are the correct drug, or the correct dosage. (Often with questionable origin, shipping, and poor storage practices. Outside of country is higher product risk along with increased shipping/handling risk.)
2. Drug manufacturers list specific "controlled temperatures" (and environment) in which medications must be stored to be safe and effective. Mail order packages often sit in peoples' hot metal mailboxes (oven-baked by sun all day, or frozen cold in winter), or packages sit on a porch in hot/cold/humid/rainy weather while people are at work all day. These conditions and temperatures often far exceed safe temperatures for medications.
3. Drug manufacturers can't guarantee uncontrolled, unregulated, illegal on-line products.
I'm surprised that vet made a comment about not bothering to try to teach your hound stairs. That's too bad. (All of our hounds, our fosters, and most other adopters who have stairs have successfully taught their Greys to walk up/down stairs within a very short time. It usually takes one training session here, but watching other hounds speeds training.)
We also have a hound with a big bite out of his ear that happened prior to his retirement (possibly unneutered males fighting during a kennel turnout). Even so, he's been a wonderful welcoming canine host to our other fosters and hound visitors at home. Our vet doesn't always get to see his most affectionate behavior; he had some scary medical experiences in his past life.
Good luck with whomever you decide to see. I agree that trusting your vet and having a good relationship with her/him is very important.
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I agree with others. After regular breakfast and dinner eliminations (soon after each meal), try to keep your hound on a 3-4 hour elimination schedule with your own alarm reminder. Newly retired hounds have never needed to "ask" to go outside in a racing kennel since kennel staff keep Greyhounds on schedule. Many retired hounds don't show a clear signal to "ask" to go outside. Many owners mistaken a hound walking over to them for affection/petting - when the hound really needs to go outside, or hound might walk over to sip from water bowl, stand or pace a little, or sniff or circle carpet/floor. Some hounds awaken from a nap and lie on their bed just watching and waiting for their human to offer a business outing! These are not clear indicators in human language. A medical issue could compound this with a strong urgency problem.It is possible to teach some Greyhounds to ring a bell to go outside, but it requires patience, especially with a newly retired hound trying to learn everything about living in a home. I woud not recommend multiple small bells attached to a long fabric strip or leather strip - it's too dangerous. Many hounds would chew up and ingest that type dangling item. It's not worth the potential deadly blockage risk.A single (slightly larger) standard bell is safer, and is much less appealing to a dog as a potential item to chew. (Some specialty garden centers carry a nice single bell for doors.) Hang bell very short on door knob (keeping bell up high, close to door knob). Greyhounds are tall, and can ring a bell by nudging it with their nose. (I'd avoid teaching hound to use a paw; that's an invitation for scratched/damaged doors, car doors, a claw catching on something, pawing at human legs or anything else whenever dog wants something.)
Here is a bell training snippet from one of my previous GT posts:
"I've taught all of our Greyhounds to "touch" target a door bell when they need to go potty. The key is to respond to the dog's bell ring immediately, so dog is assured it works (for their bodily function needs) every time.
Here's a method to teach a hound to ring a bell for elimination outings:
(Do not exceed 3-5 minutes total per training session. Stop immediately if dog doesn't respond to any step; then try again another day.) If bell has any hard or sharp edges, cover edges with sticky-backed soft felt.
1. First, let dog only see/smell extra smelly high value treat (best if never dog tasted it before).
2. Let dog see you hide treat under bell (on floor). Happily tell dog to find the treat. Wait for dog to touch bell with nose = instantly reward with treat and praise.
Repeat a few times adding words like "touch bell".
3. Then person holds bell (with hidden treat under bell) on flat open hand (near hound's nose level, while practicing near door knob of potty exit door). Nose touch = reward with treat and exciting praise. Practice this step a few times.
4. Then hang bell on door knob (or hold up in air near door knob level). Nose touch = reward with treat and exciting praise.
5. Thereafter, reinforce daily by telling dog to "touch bell" (or "ring bell") once before that door is opened for an elimination outing. Dog is now receiving a double reward for each bell touch. First reward is a treat, combined with the door magically opening every time dog touches bell. After the bell ring is well ingrained in the dog's mind (within a week or two) you should be able to stop the food treats, then simply consider the door opening (and dog relieving her/himself) the dog's reward."
End snippet.
Again, training takes time, so please keep yourself on a schedule to let your hound outside every 3-4 hours. It's important to thoroughly treat any previous accident area with Petastic (or whatever) enzymatic pet odor remover to help keep dog from revisiting previous accident area. If possible, avoid allowing dog full range of house while housetraining. It's worth the time investment to help your hound develop a solid foundation of good habits now.
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He can open doorknobs with his paws. This is a problem, but I will have to figure out what to about it. Twice now, he and his partner in crime, Fred, have gotten into the dining room through a closed door and scavenged boxes of dog biscuits and bird pellets. The resultant attacks of diarrhea were very messy! There isn't any food stored in the dining room any more...
If you haven't tried child safety lock covers on problematic door knobs or levers, that may be enough to deter him. Watch to ensure he doesn't chew them apart. Slide levers can be added to upper part of doors.
Your story reminded me of this Greyhound/lurcher video:
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Congratulations! Brady looks like a wonderful boy, and quite handsome too! Great pictures! Looks like he's stricken with that adorable "ETS" (escape tongue syndrome) gene too. We love that here on GT.
Oh yes, seems you do have a very smart boy.
You might consider a child safety lock/cover on door knobs/levers to help deter him from opening doors, and/or a latch on the upper door. Watch him carefully to ensure he won't chew off and ingest a safety cover.Nylabone makes their hard "Durachew" bone in flavors (our hounds like bacon flavor). Spreading peanut butter on Nylabones helps entice dogs' interest. It's okay if he leaves it lying around for a while. Hounds that enjoy chewing often return to them days or weeks later. Just ensure it is sized appropriately for large dogs. Our hounds' favorite "Durachew" shape looks like a fist with arm - long enough to hold easily between front legs. (I don't recommend their softer chews, too easy for large chunks to break off which can cause internal damage.)
Bravo to you! Happy to see his tag on the "side" hardware of his martingale.
If you don't have one yet, I'd recommend a narrow reflective ID collar for him to wear 24/7 (except not when he's locked inside his crate). Martingale collars are best used as leash walking collars and when closely supervised, otherwise D-ring can get caught on things around the house.Have great fun with your new Greyhound boy as he blossoms into retirement.
ETA: You might enjoy this video too...
http://forum.greytalk.com/index.php/topic/297962-henry-the-akc-greyhound/?p=5503707
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Robin, I am so very sorry about this sad loss of your sweet Treasure. I'm glad you were there with her, and that she crossed peacefully. We will miss her on GT. I love this wonderful photo of her. She was a special girl indeed. Our thoughts are with you during this most difficult time...
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This is fascinating! I imagine there are osteo diagnosed Greyhounds in Auburn and the surrounding southeast region whose owners would be willing to partake in Auburn's program (via veterinary referral). I wonder how challenging it would be on a Greyhound's system... It would be amazing if this works in dogs, and later in humans!
Thank you for sharing this interesting article. I'll look forward to reading results in 2 years.
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Yea, glad Hero did so well while you were at work!
Great photo of him!Please continue to dog-proof daily before your departures, especially things with deadly batteries (e.g., remote control, cell phone, electronics), trash, food off kitchen counters, etc. Hopefully, he will be fine from now on, but some Greyhounds become more inquisitive as they become more comfortable.
Note for other readers: IMHO, hounds who are not comfortable in crates are the ones who benefit most from having access to an "open door" crate more often, rather than never seeing their crate again. Free open door access helps them learn crates are safe, happy, comfy dens. (Never use as place of punishment.) The uncomfortable hounds who haven't seen a crate for years are more likely to feel much higher anxiety during veterinary hospital visits (surgeries, etc.) which can increase their medical risks (e.g. anxiety induced hyperthermia). Understandable if limited room space does not permit crate being left in place, just something to consider.
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No cotton balls, they can cause blockage.
Please contact ER. IF you are not going to ER, at very least call ER and ask to speak with vet tech (or vet) to ask what their protocol would be IF you brought him in.
Try to fit the remaining pieces together like a puzzle to figure out how much is missing. Keep all pieces for the coming weeks while watching dog. Watch closely for blood in stool, abnormal behavior, etc. Avoid exercising dog for several days to reduce risk of internal puncture. Avoid hard foods for several days. If he eats kibble, soak to soft before serving.
Again, please contact ER.
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Congratulations! He's so handsome, and seems like a wonderfully easy and loving boy! Have great fun with Cyrano!
Oh my goodness, that first photo is priceless! Looking forward to seeing more in the future.
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I am so deeply sorry for your tragic and sudden loss of Trooper. Thoughts and caring hugs are with you during this most difficult time...
Godspeed your beloved boy, Trooper...
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I'm so happy your visit went well. Sounds like his momma's presence helped him feel more comfortable.
Glad Robin is in good hands with excellent veterinary care and medications readily available.
Continued prayers for Robin, and sending peaceful strength for you...
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My understanding is using 1/2 dose doesn't provide full efficacy against fleas. Also 1/2 dose can build fleas' tolerance to product causing a long-term need for stronger and stronger products for our pets.
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Our two advanced LP hounds have been doing well on Dogswell's Vitality kibble. (One hound only has a few teeth left, mostly tiny, front incisors.) I let the kibble soak in water to soften before serving. The wet kibble size is still small enough to swallow easily without chewing.
A few of our hounds refuse food if they need to eliminate outside first, thereafter eat normally. If air temperature is too warm, they are less interested too.
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Since Greys are sprinters they usually can't handle endurance exercise well when newly retired. Races usually happen only 1 or 2 x per week, and last only 30 seconds. Also, Greyhounds are heat and cold intolerant. Their warmest comfortable walking temperature is about 70 degrees. Some hounds can very slowly build enough pad toughness and endurance to jog distances, but it completely depends on the hound's physical condition. Each Greyhound was retired for a reason, possibly just too slow on the track, or they may have been injured and should not run during retirement. They were used to running on a soft (sand) track vs. hard pavement too.
It's often recommended that new adopters start with very short walks on cool sidewalk/pavement to build pad toughness and endurance, allowing a few weeks to build up to a 30-45 minute walk. Good to check temperature of cement/pavement with your hand, hot pavement burns paw pads raw and takes a long time to heal.
Here is a similar recent thread:
http://forum.greytalk.com/index.php/topic/297173-normal-amount-of-panting-after-excercise/
You might try a GreyTalk search in "Forums" too. Others runners will chime in...
Edited for clarification.
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Hero is a handsome boy.
Glad he's doing so well. I agree with leaving the crate door open for now, along with another dog bed nearby so he can choose. If you don't have a baby-gate, just remember to dog-proof, and close doors leading to extra rooms. (We don't leave hounds alone with any soft squeaky toys, etc.)A Greyhound feeling comfortable in a crate is of great value for veterinary/medical purposes, and during dog-friendly vacations (hotel, rental home, visiting family/friends, etc.), but it's your call whether you have space to leave one up or not.
Feeding in a crate is often recommended for dogs transitioning into new homes to help dog feel the crate is dog's safe, comfortable, and happy place. (Greyhound track kennels feed in crates also.) You wouldn't need to do that forever. Many of us with multiple hounds feed in crates to separate hounds for safety (as mentioned by Feisty49).
One our girls awakens each morning with the cutest toothy grin, excited about life. It's a bright way to begin our day. 
I would have NEVER thought it was that darn easy to teach her but it really was! 
Mercedes Wolfe Is At The Bridge
in Remembrance
Posted
I'm so sorry for your unbearably painful losses. Mercedes did look lovely in pink. May she forever run free with her sister.