3greytjoys
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The ruckus starts in the wee hours. Tonight his memory foam bed will come into the bedroom and the cats will just have to sleep elsewhere for now!
Thanks all for the advice and it is nice to see such consistency - we were just fearing more dependency by sleeping in the bedroom, but I do understand the pack thinking and it will be on his bed or in the crate - not IN bed with us!
Great about Gable moving into the bedroom with his new human family pack. Depending on your time zone vs. his previous location, he might have been on a different feeding schedule. The snack before bed may help prevent him from awakening hungry.
Treat puzzles and feeding meals from a food cube would help mentally work (tiring) his mind until he's able to expend physical energy on walks.
Your thought re: dependency is understandable; however, you need sleep and Gable is getting plenty of alone time during the day while you're at work. After Gable becomes more trustworthy with the cats, a stepping point beyond the crate would be to wear his muzzle coupled with a baby-gate until he proves disinterest in cats. A baby-gate used during the day while you're home would allow him safety inside your most used daytime living space (perhaps a family room?), and would help him retain confident independence by him not needing to stay on high alert to follow you to the bathroom, throw away a piece of trash, etc. We install baby-gates about 5"-6" above floor level so cats have a wide berth escape route. Cats always need safe escape routes, and even muzzled dogs can pounce on cats so supervised management is important.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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First: I assume you took him outside to potty. Many hounds bark when they desperately need to eliminate.
Second: I assume he has pain medication for his broken leg and is ingesting it successfully? (Possibly whining, panting, or barking due to uncontrolled pain.)
Third (very important): I'd suggest allowing him into your bedroom to sleep as part of his new "family pack". You could move his crate into the bedroom or ask your group if you can borrow or rent a second crate. Newly retired Greyhounds need humans nearby, especially when they've suddenly lost their entire huge family of a racing kennel full of Greyhounds. If he's sleeping elsewhere in the house, and you leave to work during the day, that leaves very little time for him to be with you. This is his most major life adjustment ever, compounded by a painful leg.
I would not give him any sleeping medication (herbal or otherwise) if he is on medication for his broken leg. Most pain meds would relax him. IMO, medication is not the best answer for this specific overnight issue. Being allowed to sleep in the room with his humans is potentially the answer.
How much kibble is he eating daily, and what is his weight? You might consider reducing his dinner by 1/2 cup, then give him a 1/2 cup of kibble just before bedtime. That could help curb his hunger until morning. I assume he's being given enough time for his full elimination immediately before bed.
Only if all of the above doesn't work, and if he's not on pain medication, ask your vet if it's okay to give him "naturally derived" plain "Melatonin" hormone (like Nature's Made brand, available at most drug stores), 1.5 mgs about 45 minutes before bedtime. Again, please try all other suggestions above first (before adding a sleeping aid), especially try allowing him to sleep in your bedroom. Please keep us posted on his progress.
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We adopted Ernie last week (I've been posting about his SA) and I wanted to get people's opinions on if greyhounds get sore.
Since he hasn't had much exercise, I wonder if our twice daily (30 and then 45-60 minute) walks are a lot to handle in the beginning. I'm thinking of it like a runner, after the first few runs, muscles are sore and legs feel like lead. Do greyhounds feel like this going from a shelter to home environment?
Also, the first few days Ernie took the stairs up and down to our apartment like a champ. Now, not so much. He refuses to go down them. My husband had to carry him downstairs this morning! Any chance he's sore or do you think it's that he figured out that he doesn't like them and does not want to do them? Should I use his kibble (he doesn't really seem interested in treats of any kind) to bribe him up and down or just make him deal with them? We have an elevator in our building but he's not going to be a diva!
Congratulations on your adoption of Ernie!
Yes, I agree about too much walking too soon. Racing Greyhounds are sprinters (not endurance walkers/runners). They only race 1 or 2 races per week. One race only lasts about 30 seconds. Most of their hours are spent resting in crates. They are usually in a limited size sand turnout pen for potty elimination. Upon adoption, it's often suggested to limit newly retired Greyhound walks to <10 minutes each walk during the first several days, then slowly increase to 15 minutes, eventually building up to about 30-45 minutes over 2 or 3 months. If too much exercise, their pads can become very sore (even rubbed raw). Also, good to be aware that some Greyhounds develop corns, in which case, cement is one of the most painful surfaces on which to walk. Hounds feeling sore paw pads often seek carpeted surfaces inside, and grass, or soft dirt when outside.
Also, good to consider his racing history. It's possible he may have an old racing injury that is causing extra body soreness on stairs (and possibly during walks). When a Greyhound is not a willing participant, there is usually a good reason. He may simply be exhausted, or feeling pain. Open riser stairs (vs. closed risers) are more difficult for dogs, but are typically more challenging going up than down. His hesitation leads me to wonder if he's trying to avoid walks. Even if he not walking mid-day, good to test cement temperature with your hand for about 10-15 seconds since cement/pavement retains heat for an extended time long after sun has rotated off the sidewalk. Greys are sensitive to heat and cold. (Our hounds are comfortable walking when air temperature is below about 72 degrees.)
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Thank you for asking this question. You're smart to avoid physical force. (Some dogs will bite if forced, and/or will lose trust in their human.) Most importantly, I would not recommend teaching sit to any hound who has any rear leg or spinal injury/discomfort. A straight sit is not a very comfortable position even for physically healthy Greyhounds, and I don't expect them to stay in a sit for any extended length of time. (Greys are built for running or lying down, but not extended straight sitting like other dogs.) I don't sweat between a side sit or a straight sit. The Greyhound's physical comfort is most important.
Many good positive reward (non-force) suggestions posted, and I've used them all. Whatever method is used, it's important to keep sessions short (under 3-5 mintes). Keep sessions fun and happy. If frustration begins, stop immediately. Try again later or the next day.
The snippet below is from one of my previous posts. This method is highly effective, and particularly helpful if hounds have trouble understanding other positive reward methods.
"Try to set your hound up for success.
Watch for hound to walk towards their bed (or carpet) to lie down naturally. Get ready with treat in hand, and quickly move closer to the hound.
Once hound's rear end touches the ground/bed, you jump in to stand directly in front of the dog's body. Your body is blocking the hound (into a natural sit) while preventing dog from lying all the way down. Immediately say "sit" + offer treat, and praise, praise, praise.
Do this whenever the dog goes to lie down naturally, and the hound will learn "sit" in no time.
If desired: A clicker can be used if you want to "click" immediately and treat when the hound's rear end touches the ground (or dog bed), but just treating with food works fine in most cases. A person can make a clicker sound (like horseback riders) if you don't have a clicker training tool available.
I've had a number of hounds that do a side sit vs. a straight sit. This is fine as far as I'm concerned considering a Greyhound's body design. Many times they will eventually do a straight sit on their own if it's comfortable for them. Other hounds I teach a straight sit from the start. Greys learn differently than most breeds. Adapting with gentle, positive training is sooo important with Greys." -
k9soul: Thank you for elaborating your timing.
I'll clarify my mention of an open dog bed along a (far) wall or in a (far) safe corner (with open sides). Both are assuming it's a safer protected area for the dog to avoid being bumped into or frequently walked over (i.e., away from human traffic area). A dog's bed should not place them in a physically vunerable position. An escape route is important in case a dog suddenly feels startled or fearful. Good to avoid a direct frontal approach early in adjustment period if dog is resting.
Here is a good dog language link that includes photos with a diagram of signals to watch: http://www.diamondsintheruff.com/diagrams.html
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FYI the dominance theory methods mentioned in the second post, particularely Cesare Milan's early methods, are generally not considered acceptible in most normal dog situations. They tend to be completely dismissed by serious practitioners in the field of animal behaviour. They are particularely counterproductive when dealing with breeds as sensitive as Greyhounds. Please avoid.
Agreed. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior took a stand against dominance training methods years ago. Those same outdated methods (used more recently by C. Millan) were proven ineffective and very dangerous 30+ years ago. Those methods proved to increase aggression in dogs. Dominance creates distrust and increases canine behavior problems in other areas.
In general, Greyhounds are a very sensitive breed that respond well to respectful, positive reward-based methods. K9Soul's treat offering method is good. I would caution against petting the top of the dog's head because reaching over a dog's head or leaning over a dog's body can be viewed as threatening behavior in dog language. Some new dogs are more receptive to a lower gentle pat on a shoulder/side (petting in same direction as fur growth).
IMO, dogs' personal resting space should be respected. Over time, after a new dog begins to feel more comfortable and safe in his/her home (possibly months or longer), and each family member has earned the dog's trust, the dog may (or may not) begin to feel more comfortable allowing a human into his/her personal resting space. Every adult dog's personality is different. Many Greyhounds have never been in such close physical contact with humans. Many new hounds simply prefer watching their new household happenings from the safety of their own dog bed in a protected corner, against a wall, or in an open door crate. It's safest for humans and most respectful to the dog to teach humans to wait for the dog to stand up, and let dog approach humans before offering the dog affection.
Below are two highly recommended experts. (The second link includes helpful dog language/calming signal photos.)
Dr. Sophia Yin, Veterinary Behaviorist: http://drsophiayin.com/resources
Turgid Rugaas, International Instructor for Dog Trainers. Canine Calming Signals: http://en.turid-rugaas.no/calming-signals-photos.html
To answer OP's muzzle question: If you're concerned about the children while they're in the same room with dog, the muzzle is a helpful temporary safety tool. (Dog can still make contact through a muzzle.) It's best to set everyone up for success by ensuring the dog has a safe personal space, and teach the children to avoid the dog's personal zone. Also, another dog bed in a nearby room would allow the dog a quiet retreat area if dog prefers to leave the room.
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Good question. It often helps to time practice sessions when they are already hungry. Many dogs consider tripe a high value treat. I often get sample packs of new/different kibble too.
I'd try to address the stress issue because if he's feeling anxious he's not going to be interested in treats or performing.
(BTW, I avoid adding spices for dog treats. Onions and garlic are considered toxins.)
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Welcome!
I would encourage you to please consider metal fencing with metal fence posts. Farm center stores carry much safer, and more durable fencing in rolls or panels. There are ready-made gates available too.
Personally, the only time I'm even semi-comfortable using temporary fencing (like the link in your original post) is for a dog event where there are many people surrounding the enclosure and fully supervising a dog participating in a game. Your hound could escape out of that soft fencing material very easily. A squirrel, cat, bird, or a piece of litter blowing in the wind is enough to send her flying through, over, or under that soft barrier material. Hounds can rip or chew through them in seconds. We had a Greyhound barrel straight into a similar fence at an event. Fortunately, there were enough humans on guard to prevent an escape, and thankfully the hound was not injured. Greyhounds really need sturdy, visible fencing material. (Imagine a motorcycle going 25-45 mph.)
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Several of our hounds are excessive bleeders. Our vet instructs us to begin administering Aminocaproic Acid (to all our hounds, bleeders or not) 1-2 days prior to surgery (to help prevent excessive bleeding while in surgery and during hospital post-op). We often begin administering one day prior, plus day of surgery, and through four days post surgery. Our heaviest hound is 75-77 pounds and takes 500 mg every 8 hours. If bleeding becomes problematic, we can increase dosage but it usually isn't necessary for minor surgeries (tooth extractions, minor mass removals, etc.).
If you have any extra pills leftover, just notice the expiration date - you may have approximately one year of shelf life to use them. We like to keep a few days of tablets on-hand in case of unexpected bleeding emergency anyway.
(Compounded liquid form has a much shorter shelf life (e.g.,1 to 3 months), but is beef flavored so the hounds enjoy it more like a treat (vs. taking pills).)
Costco's pharmacy is the cheapest reliable source I've found for the tablet form of aminocaproic acid.
(Side note: Personally, I would not order any pet medications through the mail. Most medications must be kept within a certain temperature range to remain safe and effective. Drug manufacturers can't guarantee their products will be safe or effective when not kept within a specific temperature range. Medications often can't withstand hot temperatures of mailboxes or porches.)
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Just a caution that many of these recalls are often expanded over time to include a wider range of their food, bag sizes, etc.
Please remain watchful of your hounds reactions to these foods. Watch the manufacturer's Website, and FDA press releases.
Humans should be extra cautious to wash hands thoroughly after handling pet food, and discourage children from handling any recalled foods.
Kibble manufacturers recommend storing kibble inside it's own bag for higher safety for our pets. Even when salmonella, e-coli, etc. are not found, kibble oils do become rancid inside reused food storage containers which contaminates new food, and sickens pets. Recommendation for people who transfer kibble from bag into food storage container: Wash storage container with soap and thoroughly rinse with water between every kibble refill. Ensure container is thoroughly dry before adding new food.
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Greyhound's transitional S.A. was helped tremendously by adding another Greyhound, and hound #1 became much more playful and content with a canine companion.
Just so happened that hound #2 arrived with separation anxiety (genetic). The calm hounds that followed helped hound #2 a little bit, but hound #2's focus is on humans' absences. The Greyhounds that followed do not have S.A.
I believe animals (especially canine pack animals) often thrive having a well-behaved compatible buddy, especially if their human works full-time. As a pet parent of multiples (for decades) retired racing Greyhounds are the easiest breed I've ever had in multiples. They are already used to living in mass. Even though Greyhounds are nearly perfect (through my adoring, rose colored glasses), every pet (cat, dog or whatever) is a unique responsibility whose behavior can change requiring extra time and care. Going from one dog to two dogs is fairly easy and not much more time consuming. Three or more is a good bit more daily work and time. Exercise requirements can change as they age. (We walk in shifts.)
If you are considering a second hound, first ask yourself if you really want a second Greyhound. You are the human responsible for both dogs care and well-being, and like children, both dogs should be considered your priority. My suggestion would be to inquire if fostering with intent to adopt is an option (to watch behavior compatibility in your home/lifestyle situation). Another idea if you aren't ready to make a full commitment is to simply continue fostering hounds while your hound is adjusting to retirement. That would help another hound or two find a forever home. Many adoption groups pay for their foster dogs' food, supplies and medical expenses, so you would be providing your hound with a friend without long-term financial obligations.
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Agree with greysmom. Has she had recent fecal tests? Has she ever had hookworms, giardia, etc? Does she have access to water outside from a pond, lake, river, fountain, birdbath, plant saucer? If so, she could be recontaminating her body with giarda, etc. Also, hookworms, giardia, etc. can live in soil for extended periods and continue the on-going cycle of reinfection.
Our most severely food allergic dog happened to be best stabilized on a simple protein dog kibble of venison. SInce we dealt with her eating limitations for 13 years, we occasionally tried duck or rabbit with decent results, but venison worked best in her case. These days there are many more simple commercial dog foods available. Zero treats other than her approved dog kibble.
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I agree to consider Laryngeal Paralysis (aka: LP). Gagging when eating is common with LP. Also watch for excessive or loud panting, increasing exercise intolerance, loud breathing, and worsening symptoms in hot weather.
In a brief nutshell, a dog's throat has two "flap doors" that must open and close to enable the dog to breathe and eat. Laryngeal Paralysis is the loss of nerve/muscle functioning required to control those flap doors. LP is a progressive disease that worsens over months and years. It is not a problem to ignore because an owner could place the dog in a life-threatening situation without realizing it (e.g., allowing dog to run/play in warm weather, or lie outside in heat too long, or become too excited or stressed, etc.) LP can be easily managed for years, but eventually, LP can progress to deadly suffocation.Signs of Laryngeal Paralysis (MSU, link below):- Increased noisy breathing from throat (stridor), sometimes called “roaring”, most noticeable when panting.
- Distressed breathing, especially in hot weather, humidity, and when excited or stressed.
- Unable to exercise as much, may sit or lie down or even collapse.
- Bark change / hoarse bark (in about half the cases).
- Throat-clearing, or hacking, or coughing.
- Gagging with or without regurgitation (may or may not be associated with drinking/eating).
- (Possible) hind-end weakness / unsteady gait (advanced cases).
- (Possible) loss of muscle mass (advanced cases).
- When severe, the gums may become pale or blue colored (not the normal pink color).
OP, if your Greyhound shows any of these symptoms, please alert your veterinarian. If LP is suspected, be careful to limit your hound's excessive activity. Ensure dog is inside the house in a cool, calm, stress-free environment. Avoid walking dog in warm temperatures. (Dawn/early morning is the coolest time of day to take walks, otherwise after sunset.) No running. Add water to dry kibble (if you don't already). Be careful to not allow hound to become overweight. (A healthy pet Greyhound weight is being able to see the last two ribs.) If LP is suspected, please leash walk your dog with a harness instead of a collar (to eliminate any pressure on the dog's larynx). Excessive exercise that increases heavy panting increases swelling of the dog's throat, which could potentially set an LP dog into a breathing crisis. A breathing crisis requires immediate emergency veterinary treatment with oxygen to prevent dog from suffocating to death.Laryngeal paralysis is seen in many large dog breeds of any age (puppies, middle age, or seniors).Laryngeal Paralysis links: -
I'm glad you, and your Yorkie are okay.
Once a Grey starts to run extreme caution must be taken under all circumstances. Even without obstacles like leashes on other dogs, etc., the danger is real. Greys sometimes make mistakes, slip, or misjudge their moves and the moves of others. Each dog is different with some more clumsy, some greater risk takers, and others quite sensible and safe. Learn to know when your Grey is about to run, and how they run, and take appropriate measures.
Agree with above. Adult size humans have landed in serious surgeries requiring extended hospital recovery stays from being knocked over by running Greyhounds. (Another person required surgery after tripping over a leashed hound who was allowed to walk crisscrossing in front of the human (instead of walking dog safely next to the human's side/thigh).)
You were smart to not allow the Yorkie to run off leash when your new Greyhound was outside. I would take that one step further by encouraging you to keep your Yorkie indoors when your Greyhound is free in the yard. Greys have too much speed, leg power, and weight to be safe running near (or tripping over) a small animal. Also, even though many Greys are safe with cats and small dogs inside the house, many Grey's view small animals as prey when in outside environments (for some hounds, prey interest can include a small animal being held in someone's arms when outside).
Greyhounds are wonderful... beautiful, loving, and very fast!
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Good that you noticed Otto is relaxed prior to hearing your keys. An important part of alone training is watching his reactions to subtle departure cues. He may begin panting, looking worried, or gluing himself to your side more closely. Since he's being leash walked (vs. being let out in a fenced back yard), it's normal for him to be on extra high alert hearing your keys. He certainly doesn't want to sleep through or miss an outing with you!
Whenever you are home, pick up and jingle your keys then put them down, then continue puttering around/relaxing inside the apartment (so Otto will settle/relax). Do that frequently every day/evening. Your solo departure cues should be done so often and/or at different times of day/night that they become completely boring to Otto. When it's time for a real outing with Otto, provide a different clear signal just for him: Call Otto's name (okay to add a brief whistle sound) so he's clear when it's his turn to go along. Eventually, he will learn the difference.Not sure of your typical walk duration, etc. so I'll elaborate an example. Many dogs need a minimum of two morning outings before a human's departure. Not every outing needs to be a long exercise walk. Just one long walk, plus 1 or 2 separate "business outings" are fine before departure.
Assuming Otto has no paw pad soreness or injuries, and he's already built up walking endurance by now, I'd suggest his first morning walk be at a rapid pace for good exercise for approximately 30 minutes (gradually build up to 40-45 minutes). Let him fully eliminate first thing, and be careful to stop several times for eliminations with a bit of enjoyable sniffing along the way. Once home, try to let him rest until he's no longer panting before feeding breakfast to reduce risk of bloat*. Later, about 10-15 minutes before your final departure, provide him a full elimination outing for business purposes, but please don't rush this important elimination outing. Great if Otto learns a special place for his final outing is all about business. (Some dogs hold back a reserve for marking when they think they're going on a fun, meandering, sniffing pee-mail, doggie walk. A fun doggie walk is usually better at night.)
*Ideally, to reduce risk of "bloat" in dogs, it's best to avoid excessive exercise 1 hour before a meal, or 2 hours after a meal (most important if dogs are running hard). Many people don't take that much extra time in the mornings, thus my suggestion for longer walk first thing in the morning before breakfast.
Good luck with Otto's progress, and please feel free to ask questions along the way. Many people here have been where you are with Otto.
(Btw, once you post 50 times, you can PM (private message) on GT. A few sections don't count, like Cute and Funny, Off Topic, and maybe Soap Box -- if I recall correctly.)
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Great that you're able to come home frequently at lunch. That could reduce the number of work days needed for a pet-sitter. Another benefit of having someone else watch him during some of your work days is he's less likely to hyper-attach to only one person. One of the first things I recommend for couples working with a dog experiencing S.A. is to share their dog's care duties (feeding, walking, etc.). (Children should not be permitted to walk Greyhounds due to strength differences.) It's actually harder for a single owner to deal with a dog with intense separation anxiety because the dog relies on that sole person for everything. The dog is terrified to see you leave for what feels like an eternity... Aside from instinctual pack concerns, he knows that one specific human is responsible for his every basic need in life, especially his access to eliminate where he's "supposed" to go. These transitions can be tough for a pack animal who was suddenly removed from a lifetime surrounded by and taking cues from other Greyhounds, plus kennel helpers nearby much of the time or at least every four hours for daily caretaking duties.
I understand Otto begins whining immediately to let you know his displeasure about being left alone, and that is normal for many new dogs. (Like a crying baby at nap time.) After a while, many dogs will learn their new routine and begin to quiet down. Many dogs also whine, howl, or bark as desperate communication when they desperately need to eliminate. (Video cam helps determine timing issues.) Letting your neighbors who stay home during your work week know you are working hard to resolve the noise may help too.
Just to clarify my mention of a second lock near top of door. That's assuming the original lock by the door handle is fixed to be secure enough to not allow Otto to push open the lower part of the door.
If you're not already doing so, try leaving a radio turned on to a "talk" only station.
I understand re: contentment after escaping a level of confinement, especially a crate or ex-pen. Sometimes, a cage phobic dog is so delighted to be left out of a crate, ex-pen, etc. sometimes they try a little harder to handle human departures (even though they still feel extremely anxious). An option ONLY IF you can secure the structure of the apartment door and windows, and gate or block off the door from paw damage, you might try a SHORT duration test leaving him with his muzzle on while you exit the apartment (out of his sight) for a little while. Nice if you can quietly watch him through a window (away from the door so he doesn't see you). If you're concerned about him lifting his leg in the apartment (when not in the kitchen enclosure), he could wear a Greyhound belly band with pad inside for short durations.
This smart boy needs mindful stimulation. Instead of spending more money on a stronger crate, I highly recommend both of you enrolling in positive method, reward based obedience training. It will help communication between you and Otto at home, and work his extremely intelligent brain. Ask your adoption group for a Greyhound savvy, positive, reward method trainer. Greyhounds are a highly sensitive breed, and do best with a trainer who understands working with their natural behavior. I'd bet your boy is SUPER eager to please, and would benefit greatly from building his self confidence through obedience training.
What is Otto's morning routine and timing?
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Hope GT's server move will go quickly and smoothly during the next 24 hours. Thanks for the warning, Jeff.
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Congratulations on your adoption of Otto!
Although your boy is young, we get a lot of early retirees (Otto's age) in Greyhound adoption programs. In general, we consider that Greyhounds mature into adults by about age 3, but each hound is different.I agree that a second dog is not helpful in certain S.A. cases. Certain dogs are most fearful of their human leaving. Much good advice already provided re: alone training, and temporary medication as a helpful aid to open the dog's mind allowing more successful alone training. Tiny increments leading up to the first 30 minutes of success is usually most important and takes the most alone training time.
Glad you're working to prevent Otto from getting loose from the confines of your apartment. That is very serious and could be life-threatening. Many Greyhounds escape out a door or window and are killed by cars, or are never found. (See GreyTalk's Amber Alert section.) Please try to install a second lock up high on your door leading out of your apartment (closer to top of door). Also, ensure you don't leave windows wide open. If windows must be open for air circulation, please use strong metal window locks allowing only 3"- 4" of open window that your hound can't push open to escape. Their determined needle noses are stronger than we think. Greyhounds being sighthounds are also more likely to see wildlife moving outside and try to escape out windows. Couple that with separation anxiety and it's a far greater risk. They have no sense of heights either.
Leaving a new, anxious dog alone for 8 hours is really way too long. The more anxiety builds, panic takes over. Leaving your blinds raised a couple of feet so he can see outside may help save the blinds. Keep in mind that some highly anxious dogs are simply not able to hold their urine and bowels. (Like people needing to urinate more frequently when nervous.) Better elimination timing for Greyhounds is every 4 hours (to maximum 6 hours) during the day. Some highly anxious dogs can't even last 4 hours. (Btw, good that Otto's potty accidents have stopped now. Hopefully, that good luck will continue with temporary calming medication. If not, please remember to avoid any punishment for a hound having accidents inside (potty accidents or house damage). Any action stemmed from fear should never be punished. Punishment compounds dogs' fear/anxiety for a looong time.
Stay in touch with your vet. It does take time for long-term medications to build in the dog's system. Sometimes dosages need to be increased gradually, per vet's recommendation. Vet may be able to couple his medication with a shorter-acting med too.
Understandably, many people can't afford to hire a dog sitter/walker. Some dog owners arrange to come home at lunch daily. If that's not possible, and no Greyhound savvy friends/neighbors/family are available, please ask your adoption group for help. Another Greyhound group member might be retired at home and be willing to welcome your hound into their home during your work week for a while. Some people trade pet-sitting time. Perhaps you could offer to watch their hound during their vacation.
I'd agree with muzzling + a tall baby-gate for Otto instead of a crate. When dog is not muzzled, stuffed Kongs are wonderful as one of the safer options when a dog is left unsupervised. During training and beyond, be sure to pick up the Kong every time you enter the room. That "special" treat should be reserved for use only during your absences. Kong should be thoroughly washed out + dried daily. I'm not a fan of leaving any choking hazards like toys, rawhide, bully sticks, or tennis balls for dogs who are left unsupervised. If a Greyhound is not muzzled, besides Kongs, large, hard Nylabone "Durachews" can be very helpful as a stress reliever. (Bacon, liver or other flavors are good, but "original flavor" is not flavored.) Peanut butter can be spread on Durachews to increase interest also. (I do not recommend any softer Nylabone products. They can break apart and be ingested too easily with strong Greyhound chewers.)
"Through a Dog's Ear" calming music works well, especially for muzzled hounds who can't lick or chew any dog safe item. The CDs are great if you have a multi-CD player, but their player device plays/repeats for multiple hours. It really does help relax dogs (and people), but needs to be played frequently at first when you are home relaxing with your hound too: www.icalmdog.com
Yes, a positive method certified animal behaviorist could be very helpful. Ask your adoption group for a Grey savvy recommendation. Anything you can do to avoid his direct access to the door from which he sees you leave should help.
A nanny/animal video cam is often helpful to watch hounds' actions/timing in their individual situation.
Just curious what kind of crates you were using previously? Good luck, and enjoy your time with Otto!
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Sadly, I agree with others. JJ has already turned on Lyric very seriously twice within one month. Who knows what set JJ off, but both incidents seem to have been intentional attacks without being related to food. I agree to have JJ vet checked and be sure to consider if she's currently on any medications that may contribute to aggression as a side effect.
If given the opportunity, I would fully "expect" JJ to attack again. Thankfully, your grandson was not in the middle of them. If JJ is healthy, it sounds like she may do better in a home without four other dogs. She may have been hyper-stressed and on dog pack overload, or she may have an increasing female-to-female problem with Lyric. One of your senior boys might not be able to handle getting in the middle of a fight with young, strong JJ. Frequently, other dogs in the vicinity will join in a fight, and pack fights are horrific.
One of my experiences happened when I was a young child (3 y.o.) living with two different large breeds (not Greys), but the (newer) aggressor dog killed our original resident dog. Sadly, the aggressor dog didn't stop there. Two years later, I was among his seriously injured victims.
If you really want to keep JJ, a licensed veterinary behaviorist might be able to help. But if JJ is healthy (i.e., lacking a painful medical reason for aggression), IMO, it would be MUCH safer to return JJ to your adoption group for them to find an "adult only" home where she could become the single canine queen bee. That would be safer for your family, and for JJ. Winding up with a bite record could place JJ's life at stake. Whatever you and your husband decide to do, please ensure ALL hounds are muzzled for now. They can still harm each other with muzzles on, so I'd suggest making a plan - look around rooms you frequent most to find large, flat items to help separate your hounds, keeping yourself at a safe distance. I agree that JJ should be crated or otherwise securely separated from the rest of the pack when you leave. (After 18 months, I wouldn't consider these incidents part of a new retiree adjustment period either. JJ's done serious damage twice, and losing her canine tooth likely would have been caused by a strong force.)
We have a hound with severe separation anxiety, but her S.A. does not manifest in any dog-to-dog aggression. She's fine with all our hounds and hound visitors. We have had a couple of Greyhound visitors who acted aggressively towards our resident hounds, but I was able to halt their behavior before it escalated to serious harm by placing a tall chairback between their faces and front legs to separate them. (Both hounds were standing up like bears on their hind legs.)
If JJ's aggressive behavior increases, an attempt to control/manage it could become highly stressful for your family over time. I'm so sorry you are facing this difficult situation. My positive thoughts are with Lyric for her successful surgery and recovery. Hopefully others with multiples will respond with their experiences.
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I've added a copy of the "opened" page of the recall link in the OP. This is a new recall dated July 26, 2013.
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http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-food-recall/dogswell-withdraws-dog-cat-jerky-treats/
- Breathies
- Happy Heart
- Happy Hips
- Mellow Mut
- Shape Up
- Veggie Life
- Vitality
- Vitakitty
ETA:
Link's recall alert date: July 26, 2013.
The link above explains the details of this dog and cat jerky treat recall.
Here is a copy of link content:
Saving Good Dogs from Bad Dog Food
- Dogswell Recalls Dog and Cat Jerky Treats
by Mike SagmanJuly 26, 2013 — Arthur Dogswell LLC has today announced it is voluntarily withdrawing certain Dogswell and Catswell brand duck or chicken jerky treats with a “Best Before” date of January 28th, 2015 (or any earlier date).
The vast majority of these products were distributed via retail stores and mail order companies before March 1st, 2013.These products may contain trace amounts of an antibiotic residue that has not been approved for use in the United States.
According to a letter posted by Dogswell, the affected jerky treats were made in China.
There is no evidence that products containing trace amounts of this antibiotic pose a health risk for pets or humans.
The company is taking this action after learning this week that the New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets (NYSDAM) found trace amounts of the additive during a routine product sampling.
Antibiotics are commonly used, both in the USA and other markets, when raising animals fit for human consumption. And the antibiotic in question is accepted for use in poultry in other parts of the world.
What’s Being Recalled?
The withdrawn products include Chicken Breast and Duck Breast jerky marketed under the following brand names:
- Breathies
- Happy Heart
- Happy Hips
- Mellow Mut
- Shape Up
- Veggie Life
- Vitality
- Vitakitty
The affected products contain a “Best Before” (or earlier) date of January 28th, 2015. No other products are affected.
Additionally, Chicken Breast and Duck Breast jerky products with a “Best Before” date of January 29th, 2015 and later have been fully tested for these antibiotics and are not affected.
The “Best Before” date can be found stamped in black ink on the back of the package on the bottom right hand side.
Company Statement
According to company spokesperson, Brad Armistead…
“We encourage our customers to reach out to us with any questions about this withdrawal.“It is important for consumers to know that all Dogswell and Catswell products remaining on the market are safe for dogs and cats to consume and enjoy as directed.“Since January, the company has been using state-of-the-art testing procedures to ensure that our chicken and duck products do not contain these unapproved antibiotics.” -
The Greyhound martingale collar article's photo on the left side is definitely better, but a Greyhound could still back out of that collar fitting because it would likely still be too loose if without any leash tension. If a Greyhound were to get loose, loose collars can go bouncing off over their narrow heads while they're running 30-45 mph. The easiest way to explain collar fitting is when the collar is on the dog's neck with zero tension from a leash, a person should not be able to pull the collar over the ears too easily. Person should need to "work" a bit to gently pull it over the ears and head.
It's common for any dog pulling on a collar (even a loose collar) to breathe more loudly. The best solution is teaching the dog how to heel (without pulling), but that takes time to teach. Your girl still needs more time to simply adjust to retired life, and bond with you before attempting too much extra training. One exception is teaching Grace to "come" to you (for high value food rewards) inside the house starting immediately. That could save her life later. Your new harness will help relieve pressure off her neck while on walks.
ETA: Grace's collar fitting in your signature photo looks fine.
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Oh Pam, I'm so very sorry about Buddy's diagnosis.
I hope that you'll be able to make more special memories together during his remaining time with you. I hope he's not in much pain. My heart breaks for you during this difficult time. -
Epi-Pet sells a doggie sunscreen.
Yes, Epi-Pet is the only FDA approved safe sunscreen for dogs. http://www.epi-pet.com/sunprotectorsunscreenspray.aspx
Thank you for thinking to ask about this subject early in your hound's adoption. As mentioned by greysmom, we do see sun induced cancer in Greyhounds. (One of my hounds, adopted at a later age, has sun induced cancer.)
I hope that you'll be able to make more special memories together during his remaining time with you. I hope he's not in much pain. My heart breaks for you during this difficult time.
Side Effect Or ?
in Health and Medical discussion
Posted
Just seeing this thread. Is Casper improving yet?
I don't recall our hounds having any similar response to Casper; however, we didn't incorporate any Meloxicam. Interestingly, Gabapentin is used to help seizures. Tramadol does have a side effect of seizures and bizarre behavior with higher doses. Please read both links about the use of these meds in dogs.