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LaFlaca

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  1. About urgency: Males can hold their urine longer than females.

    I can't remember who it was on this forum that described his male greyhound as having a bladder "the size of a 747."

    I think they all do (both males and female greyhounds).

    From my observations of house-breaking 3 male and 1 female greyhound,

    the female could hold it 8 or 9 hours max and a male even longer!

    One of my new foster greyhounds, a male, once held his urine in for 12 hours!

    He refused to pee in the yard and kept waiting by the gate for me to take him for a walk.

    He didn't want to waste his pee and then have none left for pee-mails!

    My foster female also seemed to suddenly need to go urgently..

    I offered to let her out more frequently, but she only went out to pee every 6-8 hours or so during the day.

    She was much easier to house-train than the males. She only ever tried to pee in the house once.

    And since I caught her in the act, she never tried it again.

    If Lola tests negative for a UTI (likely), it means that either 1) she finds peeing inside on absorbent surfaces convenient.

    Or 2) she is marking/claiming resting places with her urine.

    Or a mixture of both.

    Dogs mark territory with their urine and will claim things (and even people) by peeing on them.

    One of my fosters, used to pee on my shoe when a stranger approached us.

    It was his way of saying, "she's mine."

    So when Lola pees on a bed, it's her way of saying, "this is mine."

    The key component to rock solid house-training is catching them in the act and correcting them for it.

    And not allowing them to go off unsupervised in the house too soon.

    You must interrupt them WHILE THEY ARE URINATING (loudly shout "NO" !!! or HEY !!! and quickly lead her outside).

    You must interrupt her while she is peeing. NOT AFTER she's done it. Too late!

    Keep in mind that every unsupervised "accident" is self rewarding and solidifies the behaviour.

    So the more unsupervised "accidents" they have during the house-breaking period, the more chance there is of this being a hard to break habit or repeated occurrence.

    Do not allow her to be alone, unsupervised in the house until you have caught her in the act AT LEAST once and given a well timed correction.

    Use baby gates and leashes (one end attached to her collar and one end attached around your waist) and as a last resort, a crate (if you can't supervise).

    If she has already had too many "accidents" in the house (ones you didn't find until later), you may need to catch her in the act 2 or 3 times to break the habit.

    None of my greyhounds ever had more than one unsupervised (not caught in the act) "accident", so I'm not sure exactly how many times you will need to catch her

    to break the habit.

    But do not allow her to go off alone in the house (especially the places with carpets and upholstered furniture) for now.

    And don't leave her alone in the house unless in a crate.

    Spend the time nipping this in the bud now, before the behaviour becomes really engrained and difficult to correct.

    Thanks for the great advice! :) The frustrating thing is that we've already "been there, done that" for 3 months with Lola and she appeared to have "gotten it". This "sneak-peeing" indoors and on the bed are new behaviors.

  2. I agree he's not feeling well for sure, but I cant understand why only a couple minutes later when not exposed to it and it is reintroduced he eats without issue.

    Wendy used to do weird stuff like this. Never knew why she would turn up her nose at her food or a treat, walk away, then come back 30 seconds later and eat. She was a dear, quirky girl. :wub:

  3. A little background; Lola is 2 1/2 years old and has been with me since the end of August. She did pee on area rugs and on one of her beds when she first came home, but never on the bare floor. Just when I thought it was safe, she peed on a door mat a couple of days ago (interestingly, the mat is right in front of the door that leads to her potty area) and tonight she emptied her bladder on our bed which she is not allowed on. Lola is let out to potty several times a day and pees on her daily walk so she has ample opportunity to empty her bladder. I'm wondering if she has a UTI, but even if she does, why would that cause her to urinate on our bed?

     

    Maybe it's time to go back to Housebreaking 101? Bring a urine sample to the vet? BTW, she has never defecated in the house. Can dogs be confused about where it's okay to urinate yet be quite clear about where it's okay to defecate?


    Our new girl Lizzie did the same thing last week. She and Lilly were up there playing and I didn't get to her fast enough. It was just excitement and being a puppy still and having to go RIGHT NOW!! She's been fine in the house since the first week, but even outside, when she has to go, she has to go urgently. We're still doing the "puppy" reliving schedule of after waking up, after eating, after playing with her and it seems to be good (except when it's not!).

    How old is Lizzie? Lola's need to pee always seems urgent to me; like a toddler who "holds it" until she's bursting because she can't take the time out from playing to use the potty.

  4. Congrats on the progress! I have a newish girl with SA. Did you also do any alone training or just the DAP? Using a diffuser worries me because I have cockatiels in the same room where Lola is confined when left alone. She escapes her crate and pretty much tore it up so that's not an option.

     

    Does anyone know if DAP diffusers are harmful to pet birds?

  5. This was something my Wendy would do. She was a dog that ate (barely) enough to live even when she was young and healthy. Wendy would do the "nosing" ritual around her food bowl in the elevated feeder. At first, I just couldn't fathom what the heck she was trying to do. Then, I observed her burying food in the yard using her snout to cover up the food in the hole she had dug. She would then dig it up and eat it later. This made me realize that she was trying to "bury" her food in the bowl. As she aged and sickened, she would do this behavior with food served to her while lying on her bed.

     

    It may be that his loose tooth hurts. He wants to eat but knows it's going to hurt. Try making him a batch of bone broth. There are recipes online. It's nutritious, tasty and easy to eat.

     

    Get better soon, Ryder.

  6. They go through stages of being comfortable in their new home then something triggers discomfort. Is she food motivated? I would suggest feeding her super high value treats while you both are standing next to the dishwasher. Keep the desensitizing sessions short. A couple of minutes each several times a day. Eventually, she'll come to associate good things with the devil-machine. It's only been one month. She'll be fine. Treats are your friend. :)

  7. Years ago I had a grey named JJ. He was the perfect boy, never once peed in the house until one day he just stood in the hall and peed a river. Took him to the vet. Major crystals in his bladder. Got drugs. Finished the drugs, Checked him again and no crystals until about three months later. Same thing, peed in the house. Back to the vet. More meds. Vet said if it kept happening he would need special (read EXPENSIVE) food. Jokingly asked the vet if cranberry juice would help. He thought about it and then said, sure, you can try it if he'll drink it. So we put about a 1/4 cup of cranberry juice on his kibble. The first few days he just looked at us like what are you giving me?? But after a while, if we ran out or forgot to put it on his food, he'd bark at us! Sooooo, long story short - never had a problem again. He got either juice or a cranberry capsule every time he ate. Might want to try the capsules. One warning, if the powder gets out of the capsule, it STAINS!!!

    Halise

    Thanks for the tip. :)

  8. Just went through this today with my italian greyhound, Charlie. Starting peeing in the house just a "wee" little bit a few weeks ago that turned into full bladder empltying. I brought a pee nasty looking sample in and it showed sodium urate crystals. Xray done to rule out bladder stones was clear.

     

    He'd also vomiting several soon after meals. Xray showed some thickening of the small intestine wall but not horribly so. He had still been able to poop but I had a concern about a partial blockage. No sign of that.

     

    Vet did comment that the vomiting and bowel issues could be due to stress from the urine crystals.

     

    He was started on Clamavox and we will retest urine in 3 weeks.

    Thanks, Ducky. I've suspected that Lola might have a UTI since she came home 2 months ago but chalked it up to PTSD from Wendy's illness and death. I've never had a dog that needed to pee so often. Now she has begun having accidents in the house usually right next to the door that leads to her potty area. She knows to come get me when she needs out, even during the night, so it's unusual that she'd pee in the house when I'm right there. She's also been licking her lady parts quite a bit. We'll see what the vet says.

  9. They'll want one, yes. If you can't get it to the vet promptly, you can put it in the fridge for a couple hours. You can also wait until you get to the vet if the dog will pee there, on leash. Or the vet can do a cystocentesis (needle in the bladder); that costs more.

    Needle in the bladder! EEEK! Sounds ghastly. I'll catch some urine before we go in for the appointment. Thanks!

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