Jeff

HOUSE TRAINING - THE #1 PRIORITY! Housetraining - The #1 priority when a new puppy or dog arrives at home. Unless the new pet learns acceptable potty manners, he will, in many cases, either become an outside dog or a short term resident. Therefore, housetraining becomes your first training challenge. Handled properly, this can be a pleasant experience for both you and the dog. While your new puppy or dog may have been housetrained before coming to the humane shelter, he may have been residing in our kennel atmosphere for several days or weeks. Yes, this is long enough for housetraining to break down. Also, a dog’s housetraining learned on location (his previous home) may not automatically transfer to your home. By placing your new dog immediately on a routine housetraining program, you should be able to re-establish his clean habits in a very short time. If your new dog was a stray before reaching the shelter, in all probability he comes with built in housetraining needs. Before embarking on a housetraining program, be sure the puppy or dog is healthy and has been checked by his vet (a low urinary tract infection could could be the real culprit making it difficult for him hold his urine). The method of housetraining we recommend, for both puppies or adult dogs, utilize a confinement area for the dog which will restrict access to the area to be respected (the inside of the house) by means of a dog crate, baby playpen, or by securing the dog on a leash no longer than the length of his body. This housetraning program requires a 10 day commitment to teach the dog: 1. where the “bathroom” is located 2. the route to the “bathroom” 3. to hold their elimination for longer periods of time Input (food & water) produces output. Therefore, the dog’s food intake must be scheduled, water also if necessary. Random, free feeding (food left down all the time) is not recommended during housetraining. Put the food down for 15-20 minutes, remove and re-serve at next meal time. Good timing is essential. Watch your puppy or dog. Learn how he behaves when the urge hits him. Puppies usually urinate within 1/2 minute on waking up. Sew a bell on his collar so you can hear him when he begins to move around-then you get moving! Be sure he can’t eat the bell. Put his crate near your bed for overnight. Yes, when you hear the bell go off at 2am, it’s time to hit the deck running. Day 1-3: +100% confinement for the dog -absolutely no freedom/activity in side the house -eat/sleep/play in confinement -out of confinement only when outside take the dog out on a leash (carry if possible) every hour -stand in one quickly accessible, convenient spot; do not walk around - this is a trip to the bathroom, not a walk +if the dog eliminates outside, can play or walk then return to confinement +if the dog does not eliminate, return to confinement;take out in 15-30 min. +when the dog is eliminating reliably while outside- -extend the times between trips outside in 15 minute increments -all other procedures remain the same Day 4-10: the dog is allowed limited freedom inside thr house -BUT MUST BE WATCHED 100% OF THE TIME! If dog has accident inside the house, the entire 10 days must be repeated. +when the dog cannot be watched 100%, return dog to confinement area -if the telephone rings, return dog to confinement area -if you are cooking, return dog to confinement area -if the baby needs your attention, return dog to confinement area -if your favorite TV program is on, return dog to confinement area -if you want to take a nap, return dog to confinement area +100% ADULT supervision/observation is required -do not try delegating/assigning this important responsibility to the children Yes, 100% for both the first 3 days of confinement and second 7 days of observation, means just that-100%. There is no punishment for the dog. If a mistake is made in the house, the mistake was ours-not the dog’s. The inside of the house must stay clean, with no accidents, for a full 10 days or the program must be repeated. Yes, 10 days-only 10 days of the rest of his life. Confinement in a room (bathroom, utility room, garage) separated from family activity, usually works out unsatisfactorily as the dog’s isolation may start undesirable behavories such as barking, scratching, chewing etc. Since a dog crate or kennel is mobile, the dog can be kept close to family activity and will minimize start of other problems. Important, the dog crate or kennel is a training tool; it must NOT be used as punishment. It is his house inside your house, his bed, his safe space. For the dog’s safety, remove any training collars; the dog should wear only a flat, buckle collar inside the crate. A healthy, awake, active puppy can only be expected to “hold” his urine for 1 hour (some less) for every month of age-maybe shorter if active, maybe longer if quite or sleeping. The length of time between trips outside should extend only to the extent of the puppy’s or dog’s age and ability to maintain a clean confinement area (an 8 week old puppy cannot be expected to keep its confinement area clean foe 8 hours). If clean-up is necessary, do so while the dog is not present. Use a solution of 1/2 white vinegar and 1/2 water to neutralize the urine scent (careful on hard wood floors). Following successful completion of the 10 day housetraining program, while the dog may require being watched closely, he should be fairly reliable. Should housetraining falter as a result of either physical or emotional stress for the dog, he should be immediately put back on the strict 3 day confinement program. Connie Ellis Pet Animal Behavior Specialist Rev. May 7, 1994 -copyrighted Permission has been received from Connie Ellis, Puppy & Dog Training/Nordic Pet Connection, Inc., For reproduction of and distribution by the Humane Society of Vero Beach and Indian River County, FL, Inc.

Special thanks to the Author: Patricia Gail Burnham and Dog World Magazine for permission to post this very informative article. This article was published in the March 2000 issue of Dog World http://www.dogworldmag.com Making Sense of A Blood Chemistry Panel Patricia Gail Burnham One of the most useful veterinary tests is a laboratory analysis of a dog=s blood. Veterinarians will generally tell owners the results of tests in general terms, AThe liver values are elevated or the kidney values are high.@ Over the last five years I have become very familiar with blood test values as we have been using them to indicate when we should use ultrasound to look for tumors on my elderly dogs. This family of dogs has shown a tendency to develop liver tumors, which are first identified by a rise in the bilirubin and alkaline phosphatase values on their blood panels. When those values go up it is time to ultrasound the abdomen in search of tumors. I always ask for my own copy of the blood tests which enables me to create a file of blood tests for each dog. If you look at blood tests taken over time you can see which values are increasing. It also made me curious as the meanings of the various readings so I did a little research and learned that the blood tests performed for dogs can be divided into two kinds: chemistry profiles and a CBC (Complete Blood Count). The chemistry profile measures certain chemicals in the blood while the CBC counts the various types of red and white blood cells. Blood is 90% water. Other than that it is made up of living blood cells floating in blood plasma. The plasma is made up of the water with three kinds of components dissolved in it. These three components are 1. Proteins; 2. Salts and ions; and 3. All the metabolites, vitamins, hormones, and wastes that are transported to and from the cells of the body. The Chemistry profile tests for blood components in these three categories and their normal levels are listed here. 1. Proteins: Total Protein equals the sum of the albumin and the globulin in the blood. These two are manufactured in the liver from amino acids in the diet and from the breakdown of body proteins. ! Normal Adult Range 5.0-7.4 G/L Albumin is a protein manufactured by the liver and is an indicator of the adequacy of protein in the diet. It controls nutrient transport of bilirubin, fatty acids, hormones, vitamins, and minerals, and it also controls fluid retention and waste removal. Its value is raised by shock, dehydration and liver disease. It is lowered by inadequate protein in the diet, low blood viscosity, kidney disease, diarrhea, loss of blood, or hemorrhage, fever, infection, malignancy, liver disease, pregnancy and lactation. ! Normal Adult Range 2.4-4.4 G/DL Globulin is a second protein manufactured by the liver. It is a larger protein than albumin and carries some hormones, fats, and metals. Gamma Globulin=s antibodies form part of the immune system. Globulin levels are elevated in chronic infections, chronic liver disease, and myeloma. It is low in malnutrition, impaired protein digestion, liver disease, kidney disease, or anemia. ! Normal Adult Range 1.6-3.6 G/DL A/G Ratio: This is the ration of albumin to globulin. When the ratio is out of balance the globulin is usually high. ! Normal Adult Range 0.8-2.0 2. The Salts and Ions include: Phosphorus is a chemical element and is needed for calcium and carbohydrate metabolism, calcium transport and buffering the pH of blood and maintaining osmotic pressure. High levels indicate kidney disease, rapid bone growth, diabetes, excess vitamin D, and liver disease. Low levels are indicators of vitamin D deficiency, liver disease, and malabsorption, pregnancy and lactation. ! Normal Adult Range 2.5-6.0 MG/DL Calcium is essential for teeth and bones. It is needed for blood coagulation, for the action of many enzymes, regulation of nerves and muscles and to regulate cell wall permeability. The teeth and bones act as a calcium reservoir. Calcium moves in and out of teeth and bones as needed to maintain the proper blood calcium level. If the blood level is low, the parathyroid bland hormone pulls calcium out of the bones to add to the blood. What the body is trying to maintain is a ratio between phosphorus and calcium in the blood. . Elevated Calcium is found in hyperthyroidism, some bone tumors, excess vitamin D or calcium intake. Low calcium is due to malnutrition, old age, kidney dysfunction, hormone imbalance, vitamin D deficiency, and stress. ! Normal Adult Range 8.9-11.4 MG/DL Calcium/PO4 Ratio: It is the Calcium/Phosphorus ratio that your parathyroid gland is trying to regulate. A high protein diet will raise the phosphorus level, which stimulates the parathyroid to secrete the hormone which pulls the calcium from the bones and teeth to maintain the optimal calcium/phosphorus ratio. ! Normal Adult Range 1.6-5.1 Electrolytes are chemical compounds that can divide into electrically charged ions in the blood stream. Chief among these are positively charged sodium and potassium ions and the negatively charged chloride ions. A dog gets both sodium and chloride ions from sodium chloride, which is the chemical name for ordinary salt. (When my sister=s routine blood work came back normal except for low sodium and chloride, it indicated that she needed to eat more salt.) The electrolytes are the chemicals that tie us to the oceans that life was born in. The salt levels in our blood are the same as those in the sea. Bicarbonate levels or total carbon dioxide levels are usually included in an electrolyte panel because, while carbon dioxide is a metabolism waste produce, it also acts as a buffering agent. My vets routine blood panel for a dog doesn=t test carbon dioxide but I will offer a brief explanation at the end of the electrolyte section in case your laboratory does test for it. Sodium is an electrolyte that maintains blood pressure, the acid-base balance of blood, production of digestive fluids, and nerve function. It controls viscosity and ion balance of blood, muscle function and is necessary for growth. . High salt level can be caused by a high-salt diet, anemia, kidney disease, and liver disease. When the sodium level of the blood is high the blood tends to be alkaline. High sodium levels raise the blood pressure. ! Normal Adult Range 139-154 MEQ/L Potassium maintains a cellular fluid balance, and it alkalinizes the blood. It is needed for electrical conduction in nerves and muscles, including the heart. An irregular heartbeat is associated with abnormal levels of potassium. The potassium level is regulated by adrenal hormones, glucose, and sodium. It is elevated when tissue decomposes. It regulates the enzymes that control carbohydrate metabolism. Its level is regulated by the kidneys and the adrenal glands. High potassium levels indicate kidney disease, diabetes, burns, shock, heart attack, slow heart beat and respiratory diseases. Low potassium levels indicate dehydration, kidney diseaqe, malnutrition, excess insulin, stress and a high protein diet. ! Normal Adult Range 3.6-5.5 MEQ/L NA/K Ratio: The ratio of sodium to potassium in the blood. ! Normal Adult Range 27-38 Chloride: Chloride ions are negatively charged and acidify the blood. It balances with the Sodium and Potassium positive ions to maintain the balance between acid and alkaline levels in the blood. High chloride levels make the blood acidic. (Think of hydrochloric acid.) Chloride is elevated with acidosis, renal failure, dehydration, hyperventilation. Low chloride levels and be caused by inadequate dietary salt, vomiting, fluid retention, diarrhea, kidney disease and starvation. ! Normal Adult Range 102-120 MEQ/L Carbon Dioxide (CO2 ): Carbon Dioxide is the by product of metabolizing carbon, combining it with oxygen, and releasing energy to your cells. This is the basic reaction that fuels all animal life. The carbon dioxide is carried by the blood from the cells where it is produced to the lungs where it is exhaled and exchanged for oxygen. While it is in the blood it acts as buffer system to control the pH of the blood.. Carbon dioxide is acidic (As in carbonic acid) and it has to be balanced by the positive ions of calcium and sodium. The body works best when the blood is slightly alkaline so an excess of carbon dioxide in your blood with make you feel really tired. High carbon dioxide can be caused by severe vomiting, breathing too shallowly to exhale the carbon dioxide, cortisone a part of the bicarbonate and diuretic therapy. Low carbon dioxide levels are caused by starvation, uremia, and breathing so fast that too much carbon dioxide is exhaled, diarrhea, central nervous system disease and poor liver function. ! Normal Adult Range 22-29 mEq/L 3. The Enzymes, Hormones, Metabolites and Waste Products in the Blood: Amylase . Amylases are enzymes that aid digestion by breaking up starches and other carbohydrates into sugars. Amylase is produced by the salivary glands. ! Normal Adult Range 290-1125 IU/L Lipase. Lipases are enzymes that break up the large molecules of fats and lipids into small segments. Lipase is produced by the pancreas. (Once, after I had eaten an incredibly high fat breakfast, the blood bank called me for a plasma donation. The technician overseeing the donation complained repeatedly about how lipimic my plasma was. There was a layer of fat floating on the surface of the plasma. Lipid means fat. Fats are carried in the blood on lipoproteins. We are all familiar with the terms high density (good ones) and low density lipoproteins (HDL and LDL.). However elevated levels of Amylase or Lipase are fairly non-specific and can indicate a variety of diseases. ! Normal Adult Range 77-695 IU/L Glucose (also called dextrose) is blood sugar. It provides the main source of energy to the body cells. (Caffeine gives you energy by stimulating the liver to dump more glucose into your blood.) The sugar levels in the blood are regulated by both sugar inhibitors and stimulators. Insulin and glucagon are produced by the pancreas. Thyroid hormone, liver enzymes and adrenal hormones also control your dog=s glucose levels. Insulin lowers and glucagon raises the sugar level. The liver converts glycogen, proteins, and fats into glucose. Glucose will be high in diabetes, liver disease, obesity, hyperthyroidism, food sensitivities, stress, pancreatitis, or a recent meal high in sugar and starches. Low glucose levels indicate excess insulin, liver disease, malabsorption, or hypothyroidism. ! Normal Adult Range 70-138 MG/DL AST (SGOT): SGOT stands for Serum Glutamic Oxaloacetic Transaminase which is an enzyme found in cells of the heart, liver, kidney, pancreas, and muscles. If any of these tissues are damaged this enzyme blood level rises. It is a particularly good indicator of liver or heart damage. In humans it is used as an indicator of heart attack as it may rise by a factor of twenty times normal in the first day after a heart attack. Pregnancy and vitamin-B deficiency will lower the SGOT .! Normal Adult Range 15-66 IU/L ALT (SGPT): SGPT stands for Serum Glutamic Pyruvic Transaminase. This is an enzyme that is found mainly in liver cells. It rises with liver damage, kidney infection, chemical pollutants, or heart up with liver disease or gall stones and goes down with stress, fatigue, or adrenal gland exhaustion. ! Normal Adult Range 12-118 IU/L CPK stands for Creatin Phosphokinase. It is an excellent monitor for heart attacks. ! Normal Adult Range 102-120 MEQ/L GGT stands for Gamma Glutamyl Transpeptidase. This is yet another enzyme found in the liver. It is elevated in liver disease, bile-duct obstruction, and pancreatitis. It is lowered in hypothyroidism, hypothalamic problems, or magnesium deficiency. ! Normal Adult Range 1-12 IU/L Alkaline Phosphatase: This is the enzyme that was the best marker for liver tumors in my dogs. It is produced in the cells of the bone or liver. The level rises during liver degeneration or cell damage, growth or repair. With an old dog we are concerned about rising levels caused by cell damage. When the liver enzymes are normal but the Alkaline Phosphatase is high, then it indicates minerals are being moved into or out of the bones and a bone disease is a possibility. Pregnancy, growth and bone injuries will raise the Alkaline Phosphatase. It is highest among young, growing dogs. Alkaline Phosphatase is lowered by malnutrition, protein deficiency, magnesium, B12 or vitamin C deficiency, anemia, or hypothyroidism ! Normal Adult Range 5-131 IU/L Cholesterol: The liver produces most of the cholesterol in the blood. (This is bad news for people who are trying to control their cholesterol by using a low fat diet.) Additional cholesterol is absorbed from food. High cholesterol levels are associated with various kinds of heart disease and are a risk factor for heart disease in humans. Cholesterol isn=t always bad. It is needed for the body to produce natural steroid hormones. Cholesterol is high in diabetes, liver disease, heart disease, kidney disease, hypothyroidism, and pregnancy. It is lower in malnutrition, hyperthyroidism, liver insufficiency, malignancy, anemia, and infection. ! Normal Adult Range 92-324 MG/DL BUN means Blood Urea Nitrogen which is one of the end products of protein metabolism in the body. Protein foods are first broken down into amino acids. When the amino acids are metabolized, the remaining nitrogen becomes a part of urea, which is formed in the liver and excreted by the kidneys. A high protein intake with raise the BUN slightly. It will also be elevated by kidney damage, dehydration, intestinal bleeding, some drugs and heart failure. The BUN is lowered by a low protein diet, malnutrition, poor protein absorption, liver damage, pancreas or adrenal inactivity and pregnancy. The most frequently seen change in BUN is the elevation that is caused by kidney disease. The kidneys are endowed with a lot of extra capacity and an animal has to have already lost 75% of its kidney function before the BUN will rise on a blood test. This means that a good BUN level does not mean that a dog has good kidney function. It just means that he is not down to his last 25% of kidney function yet. And conversely, an elevated BUN means that the dog may have already lost three quarters of his kidney function. ! Normal Adult Range 6-25 MG/DL Creatinine is a waste produce of muscle metabolism. When protein digestion is impaired, the body breaks down muscle tissue to supply amino acids. (This is the reason that super low protein diets destroy muscle mass.) The Creatinine is excreted by the kidneys so the Creatinine level goes up in kidney disease or muscle degeneration. It is lowered by some forms of kidney damage, impaired protein digestion, liver disease, protein starvation or pregnancy. ! Normal Adult Range 0.5-1.6 MG/DL BUN/Creatinine Ratio: When the ratio is very high, then too much BUN is being formed. If the ratio is very low then the Creatinine is not being excreted by the kidneys. It is a measure of kidney function and protein metabolism and intake. attack. It is lowered by poor oxygen transport to the tissues. ! Normal Adult Range 4-27 Total Bilirubin: Bilirubin is an indicator of liver function. When red cells die, their hemoglobin becomes bilirubin and is transported to the liver where it is converted to bile and is passed down the bile ducts to the intestines. Bilirubin is what gives feces their brown color. It also produces the yellow color in the skin and whites of the eyes when jaundice is present, caused by poor liver function. Total bilirubin goes up in liver disease, bile-duct obstruction and hemolytic anemia. It is low if the spleen or liver are functioning at a low level. A diet low in nitrogen can lower the bilirubin level. ! Normal Adult Range 0.1-0.3 MG/DL There can be a variation in the normal ranges from laboratory to laboratory. The values given here are 1999 values from my vet=s lab. Your lab=s normal range will be printed next to the dog=s test value on the report. So check the values for your own laboratory. If their test protocols differ, so may their normal ranges. However they are not likely to differ by much. It is interesting that the normal ranges for human beings are very close to the normal ranges for dogs. Even changing the species doesn=t change the normal values for blood by much. I wouldn't try to memorize any of the above data but instead would keep a copy of the article in a file with copies of my dog's blood work. That way the reader can refer to the specific item that is abnormal and determine its significance.

De-ticking: How do I Safely Remove a Tick? By Holly Frisby, DVM Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc. Veterinary Services Department To remove an attached tick, use a pair of fine-tipped tweezers or special tick removal instruments. These special devices allow one to remove the tick without squeezing the tick body. This is important, as you do not want to crush the tick and force harmful bacteria to leave the tick and enter the dog’s bloodstream. 1. Grab the tick by the head or mouth parts right where they enter the skin. Do not grasp the tick by the body. 2. Without jerking, pull firmly and steadily directly outward. Do not twist the tick as you are pulling. 3. Using methods such as applying petroleum jelly, a hot match or alcohol will NOT cause the tick to "back out". In fact these irritants may cause the tick to deposit more disease-carrying saliva in the wound. 4. After removing the tick, place it in a jar of alcohol to kill it. Ticks are NOT killed by flushing them down the toilet. 5. Clean the bite wound with a disinfectant. If you want to, apply a small amount of a triple antibiotic ointment. 6. Wash your hands thoroughly. Please do not use your fingers to remove or dispose of the tick. We don't want you in contact with a potentially disease-carrying tick. Do NOT squash the tick with your fingers. The contents of the tick can transmit disease. Once an embedded tick is manually removed, it is not uncommon for a welt and skin reaction to occur. A little hydrocortisone spray will help alleviate the irritation, but it may take a week or more for healing to take place. In some cases the tick bite may permanently scar leaving a hairless area. This skin irritation is due to the irritating and destructive tick saliva. It is not due to the tick losing its head, literally. Do not be worried about the tick head staying in; it rarely happens. The swelling is due to toxic saliva, not toxic heads.

GUIDE FOR CHARACTERIZING POISONS XXX - XX - X - Emergency! Highly Dangerous Dangerous ------------------------------------------------------------ PLANTS It is difficult to give concise information about plant toxicities as there are hundreds of plants that are potentially poisonous to animals(1). However, actual reports of animals getting seriously ill from eating plants are relatively infrequent compared to reports of poisonings from household products or drugs. The plants discussed below can be found in Minnesota and represent among the most dangerous of poisonous plants. You may notice the conspicuous lack of "holiday plants" among the list. While many people seem to think poinsettias, ivy and mistletoe are dangerous plants, and while these plants have toxic potential, they seldom cause serious clinical signs if eaten. It is worth noting here that dogs and cats often vomit after chewing on plants; this probably does not represent "poisoning" or any dangerous exposure. Only severe or persistent vomiting is a danger sign in small animals. Sporadic vomiting without accompanying signs of illness (for instance, diarrhea, depression, loss of appetite) is rarely a cause for worry, whether associated with plant ingestion or not. The best advice, however, is to contact your veterinarian if you have specific concerns. JAPANESE YEW - XXX Scientific Name — Taxus cuspidus Common names — Yew, Spreading English Yew, Canada Yew Plant with similar toxicity: Zygadenus nuttzii, common name Deathcamas. The Yew plant is an ornamental yard plant, most often used in landscaping around the foundation of a house. It is an extremely poisonous plant and the animal needs to eat only one-tenth of one percent of its body weight to get a toxic dose. (For example, a 50 pound dog would need only 0.05 pounds or less than 2 ounces of the plant to get a potentially fatal dose!) The toxin in the Yew is an alkaloid and works by depressing electrical activity in the heart. Signs may include sudden death from heart failure. If the animal shows clinical signs of toxicosis other than sudden death those could include: trembling, incoordination, diarrhea, and collapse. We rarely recognize clinical cases of JapaneseYew poisoning in animals at the University, although that may be partly because of the difficulty in proving the presence of the toxin as well as the great toxicity. In cases where animals are found dead it is very difficult to prove the Yew caused the death unless the animal is necropsied (a veterinary term for an autopsy) and evidence of ingestion - evidence that the animal actually ate the plant — is found. There are no specific blood or chemical tests to determine if Yew toxicity is present. While Yew poisoning does not seem to be very common, the best advice is to know what ornamental plants are present around your house and other buildings and to make sure the Yew is not one of them! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ARACEAE FAMILY - X Scientific name — Many, including: Schefflera actinophylla, Dieffenbachia maculata, Begonia tuberhybrida, Philodendron Common names — Starleaf, Tuftroot, tuberous begonia, wax begonia, water plant, yellow calla, peace lily, etc. This family of house plants and ornamentals contains oxalates and causes toxicity by the formation of calcium oxalate crystals in the animals organs and by causing the release of chemicals in the body which can cause an acute allergic reaction. Signs may include excessive salivation, head shaking, pawing at the mouth, difficult breathing, vomiting, and diarrhea. Fortunately, the plant causes pain and irritation on chewing and therefore animals rarely eat it in sufficient quantities to cause severe damage. Much of the motivation for chewing on such a plant involves boredom and other psychological factors (recent changes in the household, etc.) so it may be worth noting if an animal begins suddenly eating house plants they used to ignore and discussing the subject in a phone call or visit to your veterinarian. If your household plants include any of those in the Araceae family, be aware of the potential for toxicity and preferably keep the plants away from the pet or switch to safer house plants. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- RHODODENDRONS (and other cardiac glycoside containing plants) - X Scientific name — Many, including: Rhododendron, Nerium oleander, Digitalis purpura. Common names — Rhododendrons, milkweeds, lily-of-the-valley, laurel, oleander, azalea, foxglove, etc. This group of common plants all contain cardiac glycosides. Cardiac glycoside drugs derived from one of these plants, digitalis (foxglove), have been used for many years in the treatment of heart disease in people and animals. Due to their actions on the heart, however, ingestion of plants containing glycosides can be fatal. Signs may include vomiting, diarrhea, collapse, or death from heart failure. Fortunately, the plant has a bitter and very unpleasant taste! Nonetheless, the American Association of Poison Control Centers (AAPCC) report covering 425 fatal animal poisonings in 1990 includes 4 resulting from cardiac glycoside-containing plants. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- NIGHTSHADES/Solanums - X Scientific name — Many, including: Solanum dulcamara, Solanum nigrum, Physalis. Common names — Nightshades, Chinese lantern, Christmas cherry, Ornamental pepper These primarily ornamental plants contain toxins called solanines that affect either the stomach or the brain, depending on the type of poison contained in the

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PET FIRST AID Thanks to the Saint Bernard Club of America In an emergency, first aid is never a substitute for veterinary treatment. On the other hand, if you are unable to get your pet to a veterinarian quickly, knowing what to do could save your dog's life. It is a good idea to keep emergency phone numbers in a handy place for your Veterinarian, your Emergency Animal Clinic, and your local poison control center. The most important thing to do in any emergency situation is to stay calm, provide reassuring comfort to your pet and call your regular daytime or after hours emergency veterinary hospital for immediate instructions. Then, please follow these instructions, and not those of your neighbor, friend, breeder, etc. Always seek veterinary assistance ASAP. For those times when you cannot immediately call or visit the veterinarian in an emergency, be prepared with knowledge and equipment. A good basic first aid kit for home or travel should include: FIRST AID KIT Item Use Adhesive tape rolls: 1" wide, 2" wide Use in bandaging & restraint Cling gauze, rolls: 1" wide, 2" wide Secure wound dressing, muzzle injured dog, making gauze pads when folded 2" & 3" squares of gauze pads, nonsterile use for skin infections or wounds Sterile 2" & 3" wound dressings protecting wounds Small scissors (plastic o.k.) blunt tips use in bandaging, cutting hair 1-ounce squeeze bottle hydrogen peroxide 3% flushing wounds Betadine solution cleaning wounds with disinfectant Antibiotic ointment tube use for skin infections or wounds Sterile eye wash: small 4-ounce bottle flushing eyes Rectal thermometer (attach a string to it so it won't get lost in the dog!) taking temperature Benedryl 25 mg capsules (1 dozen) (keep current dating) itching, bites, stings, allergy Ampicillin 500 mg capsules (1 dozen) (keep current dating) use if extended care necessary to fight infection Instant cold packs (2) use for cooling dog's body Instant hot packs (2) use for warming dog's body Muzzle protection from dog bites Needle and thread use to take stitches if needed for extended care Vaseline for thermometer lubrication Tourniquet use to stop bleeding Antiseptic solutions disinfectant for wounds, instruments Pair latex gloves use for personal protection Tweezers/forceps use to remove splinters, dirt, ticks Ipecac Syrup (30 ml) induce vomiting in certain cases of suspected poisoning oversized aluminized blanket (space blanket) use to keep animal warm, transport animal hydrocortisone cream use for itchy skin irritations A step by step first aid book BASIC FIRST AID BITE WOUNDS: Approach your dog carefully to avoid being bitten. Muzzle the animal. Wrap large open wounds to keep them clean. Apply pressure to profusely bleeding wounds. Bite wounds often become infected and need professional care. BLEEDING: Apply firm, direct pressure over the bleeding area until the bleeding stops. Avoid bandages that cut off circulation. BLOAT: Get your dog to the vet IMMEDIATELY! This is a life threatening situation that requires immediate veterinary intervention. Prevent further access to food or water, keep him quiet and provide plenty of fresh air. Signs of bloat are enlarged abdomen, abdomen is painful, especially when touched, excess salivation, unsuccessful attempts at vomiting, difficult breathing, evidence of shock, reluctance to move and often refusal to lie down until collapsing. Once they lie down they usually will not move. Gastric torsion involving the acute building up of large amounts of gas into the stomach and intestines, can cause the stomach to distend, rotate, and compartmentalize. This process can occur alarmingly fast, 30 to 90 minutes. The patient will rapidly deteriorate, and will go into shock, hypotension, heart arrythmias, toxemias, and death. Even with prompt veterinary care and surgical intervention, the outcome is guarded. Bloat is one of the most life threatening problem your Saint Bernard can have. The best advise regarding bloat is to try to avoid it in the first place, by feeding your Saint 2 or 3 times a day, presoak the dry food, and avoid feeding before and after exercise, and do not allow consumption of large amounts of water in short periods of time, especially after eating and after exercise. BREATHING (dog stops breathing): Check to see if the dog is choking on a foreign object (see CHOKING). If an object is removed from the throat and the animal is still not breathing, place it with its right side down. Close the dog's mouth and exhale directly into the nose, not the mouth, until the chest expands. Cover the nose with a handkerchief or a thin cloth if preferred. Exhale 12 to 15 times per minute. At the same time, apply heart massage with the other hand. The heart is located in the lower half of the chest behind the elbow of the front left leg. Place hand over the heart and compress the chest 1 to 2 inches for Saint Bernards. Apply heart massage 60 - 80 times per minute. BURNS (chemical, electrical and heat): Signs are singed hair, blistering, swelling, redness of skin, reluctance to move, resistance to handling. Flush burn area immediately with large amounts of cold water. Do not contribute to further contamination of the burns. Cover the wounds with a clean cloth while transporting the animal. Keep dog quiet, prevent licking, scratching or rubbing the burn wounds. Bandage the involved area and apply a plastic bucket or Elizabethan collar if necessary. If professional help is delayed 12 hours or more, give a saline solution orally. Mix 2 level teaspoons of table salt and 1 level teaspoon of baking soda in 3 pints of water. Give at a rate equal to 10% of the body weight of the dog the first day, and 5% the second day. Example: A 120 pound dog would require 6 quarts of the solution over the first 24 hours since 1 pint of water is approximately 1 pound. CARDIAC ARREST: Causes are severe injuries with shock, drowning, electrical shock, heart diseases. Signs are unconsciousness, no breathing movement, no pulse, no femoral artery pulse can be felt, no heart beat can be felt, no respiration present. Start CPR: Place your knee behind the animal's head, cup its mouth and nostrils with one hand and administer mouth-to-nose breathing through a cupped hand. It is not necessary for one's mouth to touch animal's nose. Do this 12 - 15 times per minute. Using the other hand, apply cardiac massage by compressing the chest wall (60-80 times per minute.) If possible, find a second person to help. Use oxygen if available. Seek veterinary assistance when the pulse and respiration return or continue resuscitation attempts while on your way to the hospital - have someone call ahead. (See BREATHING) CHOKING: Signs are difficulty breathing, excessive pawing at mouth, blue lips and tongue. Look into the mouth to see if foreign object in throat is visible. Clear the airway by removing the object with pliers or tweezers, being careful not to push it farther down the throat. If the object remains lodged, place your hands on both sides of the dog's rib cage and apply firm, quick pressure. Or place the dog on its side and strike the side of the rib cage firmly with the palm of your hand 3 or 4 times. Repeat this procedure until the object is dislodged. (see BREATHING) CUTS: Stop bleeding by direct pressure over the wound for several minutes. Then gently clean the cut with a 3" x 3" gauze pad, with water and a little betadine solution. Apply antibiotic ointment and seek assistance for any needed surgical repair. If the cut is dirty and even if you thoroughly cleaned it, and you cannot get to the vet for several hours, give an appropriate dose of antibiotic which your vet would recommend for such a situation. DIARRHEA: Causes are changes in regular diet, overeating, ingestion of spoiled or unusual foods, emotional stress, excitement, fear or pain, parasites, diseases, poisons. Withhold all food; weaned puppies, 6-8 hours; adults 24 hours. Give ice cubes only. Then feed a soft bland diet. Make home prepared food or obtain a prescription diet from a veterinarian. Home prepared bland diet: mix 1/2 cup cottage cheese or boiled hamburger or boiled chicken with 1/2 cup boiled white rice. Give a quantity approximately 1/2 of your dog's normal food consumption for one day. Divide into small amounts to feed 3 to 4 times daily. Reintroduce normal diet gradually over 3 to 4 feeding. Withhold all water for 6-8 hours, then reintroduce it slowly. Small dogs, 1/3 cup every hour; large dogs, 1 cup every hour. Treat with Pepto Bismol or Kaopectate, administer orally, 1 tablespoon per 20 lbs. of body weight every 2-6 hours. FEVER: A rectal temperature below 100F and above 103F is considered abnormal. For a high fever in a dog (104F-106F) aspirin may be used to relieve pain and reduce the fever. For a very high fever (106F and above) lower the temperature by submerging the dog in cold water or spraying with a hose. Take its temperature rectally every 5 minutes until it reaches 103.5F . Do not cool below this point as the temperature will continue to drift downward. Important: Care must be taken with the use of aspirin. It is an irritant to the stomach and cause vomiting and/or ulcers. Never give aspirin to puppies. See HEAT STROKE. FRACTURES: Pain, inability to use leg. Muzzle the dog, control bleeding, and treat for shock. Protect open fractures with a sterile dressing. Watch for any sign of shock. DO NOT TRY TO RESET A FRACTURE. Handle the injured area as little as possible. These injuries cause severe pain and the dog will bite. Transport the dog to the veterinarian immediately, using a stretcher. If you are several hours away from help, attempt to apply a temporary splint. Do not bandage fractures of the pelvic area, shoulder blade, rib cage or upper limbs unless they are open wounds. Excessive struggling by the dog will make application of a splint very difficult or impossible. FROSTBITE: Freezing of tissue usually occurs in peripheral parts of the body which are sparsely covered with hair and where blood circulation is poor - the scrotum, ears, feet, teats, and tail are the most commonly affected areas. Signs of frostbite are flushed and reddened tissues, white or greyish tissues, evidence of shock, scaliness of the skin, possible sloughing of surface tissue. Important: do not rub or massage frozen tissues. Never apply snow or ice. Tissue damage is greatly increased if thawing is followed by refreezing. Prevent further contact with snow or cold. Prevent self mutilation of the area. Warm the affected are rapidly by immersing in warm water (102F - 105F) or use warm moist towels that are changed frequently. Discontinue warming as soon as the affected tissues become flushed. Gently dry the affected tissues, lightly wrap in a clean, dry bandage, and protect from further injury. HEAT STROKE: Signs are rapid or difficult breathing, vomiting high body temperature, collapse. Place the dog in a tub of cold water, gently soak with a garden hose or wrap in a cold, wet towel. Apply cold compresses to head, neck, armpit, groin, and abdomen. INSECT BITES and BEE STINGS: Signs are onset of swelling, itching and pain within one hour of bite. Remove stinger and apply cold packs. If isolated from veterinary care, a topical cortisone or an anti-inflammatory ointment can be rubbed on the area of the bite. A previously prescribed antihistamine may be given orally. If you are miles away from a vet, give Benedryl at 1/2 mg per pound weight given orally immediately, and again in 4 to 6 hours. POISONING: Signs are vomiting, convulsions, diarrhea, salivation, weakness, depression, pain. Write down what the dog ingested and how much. Immediately call the veterinarian or poison control center. Do not induce vomiting or attempt treatment without direction from the doctor. In the case of poisoning on the fur or skin from oils, paints or chemicals, wash the animal with mild soap and rinse thoroughly. If possible, take the toxin and its container, and any vomitus with you to the vet. SEIZURES: Life threatening. Signs are salivation, loss of control of urine or stool, violent muscle twitching, loss of consciousness. Move pet away from any objects that could be harmful. Use a blanket for padding and protection. Do not put yourself at risk by restraining the dog during the seizure. Time the seizure: it usually lasts only 2 or 3 minutes. Afterwards, keep the dog calm, quiet and cool. Use caution around a seizuring dog. They may bite without realization and cause severe injury even to family members they normally would never harm. SHOCK: Signs are irregular breathing, dilated pupils, gums and lips are pale in color and dry, pulse is weak and rapid - usually over 160 per minute. May occur with serious injury or fright. Keep animal gently restrained, quiet and warm with head elevated. Shock is aggravated by pain, rough handling or delay in treatment. Do not give the dog anything to eat or drink. Keep warm. Wrap blankets over and under the animal, and place in a warm room or well heated car. SNAKEBITE: Signs are rapid swelling, skin puncture, pain, weakness, shock. Stop all exercise to prevent spread of venom. Clean the area. Many poisons damage nerves or body tissue on contact. If seen within 10 minutes and the bite is on a leg, apply a loose 1"wide constricting band 2-3" above the joint above the bite, between the wound and the heart. You should be able to slip a finger under the band. Do not apply a tourniquet. Treat for SHOCK. Apply a cold, wet cloth over the wound. Do not pack the wound in ice. Nonpoisonous snake bites should be treated as simple puncture wounds. VOMITING: Withhold food for 12-24 hours. Give ice cubes for two hours after vomiting stops. Then slowly increase the amount of water and foods given over a 24-hour period. Treat medically with Kaopectate or Pepto Bismol, administering orally 2 teaspoons per 10 lbs. of body weight every 2-6 hours; or antacid liquids, Maalox or Mylanta, administer orally 1 teaspoon per 20 lbs of body weight every 8 hours. Reintroduce water slowly in small amounts - 1 tablespoon per 10 lbs of body weight, or place several ice cubes in a bowl for the dog to lick. Puppies should be given a mixture of 1/2 teaspoon of table salt and 1 tablespoon of sugar mixed in 1 quart of water. Begin feeding a soft bland diet (see DIARRHEA) or feed broth or baby foods in small amounts several times a day. Gradually return to normal feedings during the next 1 to 2 days. Do not attempt to treat or wait when blood is present, vomiting is projectile, abdominal pain or distention is present. Equipment to keep on hand Muzzle: Use a strip of soft cloth, rope, necktie or nylon stocking. Wrap around the nose, under the chin and tie behind the ears. Care must be taken when handling weak or injured dogs. Even normally docile pets will bite when in pain. Allow animal to pant after handling by loosening or removing the muzzle. Do not use a muzzle in a case of vomiting. Cats and small pets may be more difficult to muzzle than large dogs. A towel placed around the head will help control small pets. Stretcher: A door, board, blanket or floor mat can be used as a stretcher to transport injured or weak animals. A dolly with wheels is also essential for large dogs if several people are not available for assistance in transportation. Hot weather hints and tips All of us are aware of how deadly dangerous it is to leave animals in cars, even when they are shaded and left with the windows partly down. In the hot months of summer, the temperature inside a car can quickly soar to over 120F. Many pets have died agonizing deaths in a very short time after being left in such conditions. Exercising your dog can be dangerous even in moderate heat. A dog cannot shed his coat clear down to the skin, as we can, or spray himself with water to cool off, or even drink water as he needs it, while jogging intensively alongside his owner. Dogs do not have the complete body cooling system of sweat glands that humans have. The only internal cooling system canines can use is heavy, open-mouthed panting and a slight sweating from the pads of the feet. Dogs do share another serious problem with humans in summer, and that is smog. Oxygen intake, especially when a body is in motion, is critical to all species, and the more pollution in the air the less able the body is able to oxygenate all its vital systems. So expect respiration difficulties in your dog, especially the older models, when the air around it becomes more visible. And if those are not enough problems, the ground, pavement, gravel and beach sand become very hot under the summer sun. A dog's pads are especially sensitive to repeated burning. Even shaded blacktop can retain a great deal of heat. So be very careful to check the surface where your dog must walk. Prolonged hot aerobic activity on any surface can cause more dangerous physical stress and dehydration to your dog that it ever benefits it by building endurance. You don't need a strong, dead dog! During the hot summer season, physically note how much sun and how much shade is available to your Saint. Is there plenty of shade, along with cool ground surfaces all day long? Is his water source also shaded and cool at all times? Remember too, if the water supply comes from an uninsulated upright pipe, or even from a hose lying in the sun, that too can become an excellent solar heater. Many hot dogs will not drink warm water. As a result, they can become dehydrated, lethargic, and very ill. You can avoid these conditions by providing fresh, cool water in a clean receptacle at least twice a day all summer. The dog days of summer sometimes curb your dog's appetite too. If this happens, try feeding your Saint earlier in the morning, and later in the evening. Keep any canned food refrigerated (who feeds a Saint canned food!) and mix meals with cool water rather than warm water. The best rule of thumb for the hot summer weather is, if you feel hot yourself, consider that your dog is in trouble. Don't exercise your pet if the outside temperature is above 80 F. Don't leave him unattended in hot garages, rooms, automobiles, or even yards without proper shade and water, and be sure to provide ample shade, cool water, relaxation, and maybe even a child's wading pool during the warm weather. Prevention is the watchword, of course, since heat prostration and its aftermath, heatstroke, are preventable conditions. Products like the polar cooling mats may be purchased from dog catalogs and suppliers, and are useful during hot weather, but are often large and difficult to handle. Cold Weather Hints and Tips Animals that are well fed and conditioned to cold temperatures can survive severe conditions if sheltered from wind and moisture. Freezing and hypothermia are more likely to occur from exposure to very cold temperatures, high humidity, wind or immersion in water. Animals that are young, injured, ill, starving or fatigued are more susceptible in cold weather. Dogs who are primarily outdoor dogs seldom get a serious case of cold feet. You may see your dog lifting up his feet when temperatures drop, but if he is an outdoor dog and in good health, you don't have to worry about his cold feet. All outdoor dogs (and indoor dogs that are left out for short periods of time) should have a doghouse and a good supply of fresh bedding. Hay is probably the best choice for bedding. Straw is OK, but it tends to break down and it has been known to poke a dog in the eye. Be sure the hay is dry and not moldy. Wood shavings are better than no bedding at all, but they tend to hold moisture. Avoid sawdust because it will get wet and stay wet. Watch for foxtails in your hay or straw - they can cause all kinds of problems if they get into a dog's eye, nose or mouth, or penetrate his skin. Even outdoor dogs can get frostbitten if their feet get wet. Be especially careful with indoor dogs when they go outside. Going from indoors, dogs have warm feet that will melt snow or ice, causing wet feet. When wet feet freeze, frostbite can occur. When you bring your outdoor dog indoors for a visit, keep it short. Too much time indoors can keep a dog from getting as full and heavy a coat as he would get if left outdoors. But leave him in long enough to be sure his coat is thoroughly dry before you put him back out. Outdoor dogs will have snow and ice in their coats, which will melt when they come indoors. If they are put back outside with a wet coat, they can get pneumonia. A couple of hours is usually a good visit. And while he is inside, give him some warm water flavored with meat or fish. Outdoor dogs often don't get enough water, so take every opportunity to get him to drink more. REFERENCES "Heat & Cold Treatments for Pets," by Roger L. DeHaan, D.V.M. Canine Companion, February 1995. "Emergency Care for Cats and Dogs," by Craton Burkholder, D.V.M., M.A., 1991. Kesend Publishing Ltd., 1025 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10028. ISBN 0935576185. "Cold Feet?" Alaskan Malamute Club Newsletter, October 1994. "PetFirstAid," from Southern Saints Newsletter, March 1994. Letter to the Editor, by Dr. Larry Occhipinti. The Bernard Bugle, Nov./Dec. 1993. "Summer Sizzles," Tom Lamês Newsletter, from the Bernard Bugle, May/June, 1994. "Dog Ownerês Home Veterinary Handbook," by Carlson and Giffin. 1992. Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing Co., 866 Third Ave., New York, N.Y., 100022. ISBN 0876055374.

Special thanks to the Author: Patricia Gail Burnham and Dog World Magazine for permission to post this very informative article. This article was published in the March 2000 issue of Dog World http://www.dogworldmag.com The Meaning of a Complete Blood Count (CBC) Patricia Gail Burnham General blood tests performed for dogs can be divided into two kinds: chemistry profiles and a CBC (Complete Blood Count). The chemistry profile measures various chemicals in the blood while the CBC counts the various types of red and white blood cells. Living blood cells make up 45% of blood. The blood cells are swimming (or floating depending on the type) in blood plasma that makes up the other 55% of blood. Complete Blood Count (CBC). A complete blood count is just that, a count of the various living cells that are swimming around in the blood serum. They are divided into two basic types of cell: red blood cells and white blood cells. All of the cells in the blood are produced in the dog’s bone marrow. Red Blood Count (RBC) Red blood cells make up 99% of the total blood cells. Red cells are the longest-lived blood cells, living as long as four months. The job of the red blood cells is to carry oxygen from the lungs to the cells, and the dog needs oxygen all the time so the demand for red cells is ever present. (If you are a blood donor, the reason that you are only allowed to donate a pint of blood every six weeks is that it takes that much time for your bone marrow to replace the red blood cells that were given in your donation. If you donate blood plasma your body will replace the donation in two weeks, while it will replace donated platelets within three days. It is the red cells that take the longest to replace.) Poor oxygenation of the blood will cause the liver to produce excess hemoglobin and the bone marrow to produce more red blood cells. High red counts are produced by dehydration, polycythemia (an excess of red cells being produced), bone marrow disease, excess iron, or malfunctioning of the liver or spleen. A low red count can be caused by either nutritional or genetic anemia. Nutritionally, iron, B12, and folic acid are required to manufacture red blood cells. $ Normal Adult Range 4.8-9.3 million/UL Hemoglobin ( HGB) Hemoglobin is the oxygen carrying protein in the blood. If the HGB level is high, then some toxin or a low oxygen level is stimulating the liver to produce extra hemoglobin, or the liver or spleen are not functioning, or excess iron is being consumed. A low hemoglobin level is caused by anemia due to lack of iron, B12, or folic acid in the diet. $ Normal Adult Range 12.1-20.3 G/DL Hematocrit (HCT) The hematocrit is a measure of the percentage of the red blood cells in the blood. A high HCT indicates dehydration or a reduced breakdown of red blood cells by the spleen. A low HCT indicates anemia, or an overactive spleen, or over hydration. $ Normal Adult Range 37-55% Mean Corpuscular Volume (MCV). The MCV reflects the size of the red blood cells. MCV is a calculated value that uses the volume of a red cell divided by the total number of red cells. If the level is high it means the red blood cells are larger than normal because they are old cells that the spleen has not destroyed. Iron deficiency anemia is a macrocytic (large cell) anemia because even though there are fewer red blood cells produced, each one is larger than normal. A dog’s MCV is high in iron deficiency anemia. Conversely, anemias due to B12 or folic acid deficiency are microcytic (small cell) anemias because the red blood cells are smaller than normal. If the MCV is low, the red blood cells are small and young and oxygen will not be transported efficiently to the tissues. $ Normal Adult Range 58-79 FL Mean Corpuscular Hemoglobin( MCH) MCH gives the average weight of the hemoglobin in the red blood cells. MCH is calculated by dividing the HGB by the RBC. If the level is elevated it means inadequate oxygenation. If the level is low, the red blood cells are pale, usually due to an iron deficient diet. $ Normal Adult Range 19-28 pico gms MCHC (Mean Corpuscular Hemoglobin Concentration) MCHC tells if the average red blood cell is anemic. MCHC is calculated by dividing the MCH by the MCV. A low MCHC indicates hypochromic anemia. $ Normal Adult Range 30-38% White Blood Count (WBC): The white blood cells are your dog’s disease fighting cells. Most of us have seen education films of magnified white cells attacking, killing and eating invading bacteria. White cells are some of the world’s smallest predators. They act as the dog’s defense army against invading microbes. The white blood cell count measures the disease fighting abilities of the blood. White blood cells in a healthy dog only account for one percent of the blood cells. They are far outnumbered by the oxygen carrying red cells. Because white cells are used only when it is necessary to fight an infection or disease, there is no reason to have hordes of them circulating in the blood of a healthy animal. Instead, small numbers of white cells circulate to meet the initial infection, but the body is capable of producing a large number of white cells quickly when they are needed to fight an infection or disease. So a high WBC indicates a that the body is producing white cells to meet the attack of a bacterial infection. A lower than normal level of white cells indicates a weak immune system, an active disease or a current infection that is winning its war with the white cells. $ Normal Adult Range 4.0-15.5 thousands/UV In addition to the total white blood count, the blood count will give a breakdown of the percentages of four different types of white cells. All white cells start out as blasts. They mature through stages into a variety of types of white cells. These are the neutrophils, lymphocytes, monocytes and eosinophils. The readings for the different types of white cells are given both as an absolute figure and as percentages of the total white count. The percentages for the four types of white cells should add up to 100% Neutrophils are short-lived blood cells. The only live for seven hours, during which time they help combat infections. They are also called granulocytes. They start out as blasts and mature through several stages from blast to myleocyte to metamyelocyte to a segmented neutrophil. At one stage in their development they start showing characteristic dark granules in their nucleus which is why they are called granulocytes. $ Normal Adult Range 60-77 % (2060-10600/UL) Lymphocytes are white cells that help fight infection. T-cells are lymphocytes under the control of the thymus gland. T-cells alert the body to germs, viruses, and toxins. B-cells manufacture antibodies. If the lymphocyte level is elevated, the immune system is active due to an infection. If the count is very low, the immune system is exhausted. $ Normal Adult Range 12-30 % (690-4500/UL) Monocytes are part of the mononuclear group of cells that help the granulocytes fight infection. An elevated level indicates chronic degenerative diseases including liver infection. In this case you want a low value. $ Normal Adult Range 3-10% (0-840/UL) Esinophils are cells in the granulocytic series. Esinophils got their name because they stain red with a dye called eosin. The eosinophils protect against allergic reactions and parasites. If elevated, an allergy is in progress or parasites are present. $ Normal Adult Range 2-10% (38-1200/UL) Platelets. Large cells within the bone marrow called megakaroyocytes, regularly pinch off pieces of their cytoplasm. These cell fragments, which contain no nuclei, enter the bloodstream where they help blood to clot. They are called platelets. They live for a week. My blood bank selectively harvests platelets to give to cancer and burn victims. The plastic platelet bags are air permeable to let the live cells breathe . A bag full of platelets doesn’t look like blood at all. It looks like pale yellow melted fat. But without platelets, blood won’t clot. A raised platelet level indicates dehydration or over active bone marrow. A low level can be caused by drugs, an immune system failure, or low B12 or folic acid intake. Chemotherapy and burns will also lower platlet levels. A very low level is considered to be life threatening, as a dog could bleed to death internally. .$ Normal Adult Range 170-400 thousands/UL There are some breeds of dogs for which the normal range of blood cell counts is different from the averages. Greyhounds, because of their specialization for high speed running, tend to have higher red cell counts both at rest and when running, and they often have borderline low white counts. For example a normal resting red count range for Greyhounds is 7.8-9.2 million /UL . This is on the high end of normal for the average dog and has led some veterinarians to treat normal Greyhounds for polycythemia when their red blood counts are within normal for Greyhounds. You can’t just add extra red cells to blood without risking making the blood so thick that it won’t pump properly, so in order to raise their red cell count, Greyhounds have lowered their white counts. For the improved running speed that extra red cells provide, Greyhounds have been bred to maximize their oxygen carrying red cell counts and minimize their white cell counts. A healthy Greyhound’s white count ranges from 3.5 to 6.5 thousand/UL, which would be low for a normal dog. While extensive research has been done on Greyhounds because of their racing activities, it is possible that the other sighthound breeds might also differ somewhat from the normal values for red and white cell counts.

These links will take yo to another web site. If over time any link should become broken, please let me know and I will fix or remove them. BLOAT HEART WORM Separation Anxiety CHOKING D oggie CPR Poisonous Plants & link to POISON CONTROL CENTER