Jeff

Special Rewards Biscuits Posted by: greytdawg 3 Cups Wheat Flour 3 Cups Bread Flour (I used unbleached) 1/2 Cup wheat Germ 1tsp. Salt 2Tbsp.Brown Sugar 3 Eggs 1 Cup Vegetable Oil 1 Cup Powdered Milk 1 Cup Water Combine the whole wheat flour, bread flour, wheat germ, salt and brown sugar. Add eggs and oil and mix well. Dissolve powdered milk in the water and incorporate into dough. Work the dough, adding more flour or water when necessary, until dough is very stiff and firm.. Cover and let rest 20 minutes. Preheat over to 375.. Roll out dough 1/2 inch thick. Cut dough, using cookie cutter (I use a cat shaped cutter) Place biscuits on parchment lined cookie sheets. Bake 40 minutes(watch them) or until browned and hard. Cool on rack and keep in air tight, doggie tight container in refrigerator. My dog loves them..

Peanut Butter Biscuits Posted by: Hattiemae 3 cups whole wheat flour 1/2 cup rolled oats 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 1/2 cups milk 1 1/4 cups peanut butter 1 tablespoon molasses Combine flour, oats, and baking powder in large bowl. In smaller bowl, combine milk, peanut butter, and molasses until smooth. Stir into flour mixture. Knead until stiff. Roll out 1/4" thick, then cut out with cookie cutter. Bake at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes. Let cool and dry until crunchy in oven. Store in an airtight container.

Dog Cookie Recipe....cut outs Posted by: angbruce88 Here is a recipe I copied off the Greyhound-L It is from Maddie's Hound Tooth Bakery My greys Love them!! 4 1/2 cups flour 1 1/3 cup cornmeal 6 tablespoons of peanut butter 1 cup of applesauce 2 eggs 1/2 cup of milk 1 egg to baste with...... Mix all dry ingred and then add PB, eggs, applesauce and milk, mix well, let stand for 15 or 20 minutes, then roll dough out on floured surface and cut into cookies. Baste the cookies with the 1 egg and place on cookie sheet......I used a dog bone cookie cutter. Bake in oven at 350 for 30-40 minutes It says it makes 4 dozen but it all depends on the size you make.

HattieMae'S Gluco Cookies Posted by: angbruce88 Here's the recipe. It makes 16 cookies, each 2" in diameter. I put 16 doses of glucosamine in the dough, so for me that means I measure out 16 1/2 teaspoons. If you normally give more than 1/2 teaspoon, then increase the amount you add to the dough. 2 small jars baby meat 1 cup wheat germ your glucosamine Blend all into a dough. Form dough into small balls, then flatten into cookies. Bake on ungreased cookie sheet at 325 degrees for about 10-12 minutes. Watch carefully. For some reason the glucosamine makes the cookies tend to burn very quickly. The cookies are more on the chewy side instead of being crispy, unless they get a little overdone. I've found that my girls will eat them even if they're fairly burned. I haven't ever made a double batch, but if I did I think I'd refrigerate the extras - their moistness makes me think they'd mold quickly at room temperature. My girls love them, and pester me at suppertime until they get theirs.

Danish Cinnamon Rolls..Dog Cookies Posted by: angbruce88 Here is one that smells great when you bake them, and the greys love them!! 3 cups whole wheat flour ½ cup honey ¼ tsp. baking powder ¼ tsp. baking soda 1 Tbsp. vanilla 2 Tbsp. cinnamon ¾ cup water Preheat oven to 325°. Mix all dry ingredients except Cinnamon. Add wet ingredients, mix thoroughly. Knead dough. Roll out into ½ inch square patty. Sprinkle cinnamon over entire surface. Roll dough into a tight log. Freeze for 30 minutes. Slice into ½ inch slices. Bake on baking sheet for 35-40 minutes. Yield 12-18 slices. I get many more than the recipe says when I make these.

Ours are on Glucosamine also. We started about a year ago, so ages 4,4 and 3 I think all greys back legs look stiff when they walk.

Thanks for the info Judith

Yes, it is acceptable to make your own contacts once you are certified. You will find a lot of polished tile which is very slippery. Make sure you trim the hair from the bottom of Saoirse’s feet. Also round over her nails as the skin of elderly people is really fragile. You will probably also find cats and rabbits with in the homes. Many have them for comfort, The rabbits are usually in a cage, but the cats run loose. Also patients will pee on the floor and you may get blamed for that. Just reaffirm it was not your dog and leave it at that. We have been to maybe 6 different places. I prefer assisted living as opposed units with stroke and full time care patients. That is just my preference not necessarily the dogs. Each home usually has both areas in different wings. One thing to watch out for One time there was this old lady in a wheelchair. She was pretty much comatose, slouched and facing away from us, but had long strangely hair that looked like one of our toys. Apollo all of a sudden grabbed it I caught if very fast and no body saw, but it was pretty bad. Funny now in hind site though

I am referring to a nursing or assisted living home. I don’t think the VA or any hostipal will let you in as they are normally sterile environments.

they will get a red heart tag that says "Therapy Dog" and a card with their number. They can also get an ID card with a picture for a fee, or you can make your own like I did.

All three of ours are pet therapy qualified. There are 2 companies that you can get certified with Therapy Dogs International inc. and Therapy Dogs inc. Lexie and Apollo are certified with both, Demi is only with Therapy Dogs inc. and that is the group I recommend. The test is easier and annual fees are about half the cost. Therapy Dogs International inc. requires a CGC (canine good citizen) test and Therapy Dogs inc. does not. (All mine have passed the CGC) Greyhounds are exempt from sitting, but must down on command. This is in red bold print on the CGC test. Also the entire Therapy Dogs International inc. certification is done on one day, you can have a good day or a bad day. I don’t think it really shows the dog well. The Therapy Dogs inc. test is a series of 3 visits at homes where the demeanor if the dog is evaluated. I think that is a lot better than if they can just sit or stay. It is hard to tell the names of the organizations apart, the difference is international Both links are below. We have done visits in both groups and as individuals. Both are fun and I don’t have any real preference. If you have any questions, just ask. Oh, and as for getting started, just walk into a home, they will be glad you did. Therapy Dogs International inc. Therapy Dogs inc.

My experience with it has been positive. When Apollo was neutered he was 2.5 years old and was only glued back together. Also when he sliced his leg open, he was again glued back together. It was fairly bad, and the stuff worked really well. Most of the skin was intact, so that probably helped. I guess every situation is different.

Very cool!! Thanks for putting up a link, and thanks to whomever authored the article!

awesome!! The only other variable would be that the rate of acceleration is not linier. I am pretty sure he/she would take a lot less time to go from 0-21mph then from 21-42mph. They are pretty torquey have a lower powerband

Next time, not such a wide angle shot please, this is a family site Is it possible that while running his front paws were hitting his back legs? It is pretty far back, but something to think about.

Quote: Canine Von Willebrand's disease Von Willebrand’s isn’t so much a disease as a condition. Of all the inherited bleeding disorders in animals (and humans) it is the most common. The defect isn’t autosomal (sex linked) so both males and females can suffer from the “disease.” It must be remembered that just because a dog doesn’t show symptoms of von Willebrand’s, it doesn’t mean it can’t be a carrier. Von Willebrand’s was discovered in humans and called a “disease” in the 1920s by a Finnish doctor coincidentally named, von Willebrand. After further research, he was able to figure out the illness was actually linked to a missing factor in the blood’s clotting ability. You May Be Owed Unclaimed Money To Find Out, Enter Your Last Name Here: Modern research has found von Willebrand’s doesn’t lower the number of platelets (the factor in the blood that causes clotting) but changes the platelet’s actual make up. Researchers have discovered there are twelve “factors” that go into the platelet’s make up and allows them to work properly. They have set up a “Cascading Clotting Tree” to mark and show the different factors. Von Willebrand’s affects Factor 8 on this tree. There is a large, multimeric glycoprotein that is labeled as vWF. This glycoprotein circulates in the plasma and is required for platelet adhesion. When there is a defect in the vWF gene, there is an insufficient synthesis of the vWF glycoprotein. This insufficiency causes the platelets to fail in their adhesion or “sticking together.” Like water coming through a #### with a hole in it, the platelet “leaks” and bleeding continues. Von Willebrand’s seldom happens in cats but it is very common in various breeds of dogs. In all, some sixty different purebred breeds have been commonly linked to von Willebrand’s with the Doberman Pinscher having the highest incidence. Clinical trials conducted on 15,000 Dobermans showed seventy percent of them were carriers of the disease. Of these 15,000 Dobermans, the majority of them didn’t show clinical signs. Another study estimated 68%-73% of Dobermans had the disease Although Dobermans are the most commonly affected by von Willebrand’s Disease, they usually have the milder forms. It is also one reason Dobermans have such a lower survival rate of diseases such as Parvovirus, which attacks the gastro-intestinal tract and causes bleeding. Other breeds that have a high incidence of von Willebrand’s disease are Shetland sheepdogs, Scottish terriers, Airedale terriers, Bassett hounds, Dachshunds, German shepherds, Keeshonds, Corgies, Rottweilers, Poodles, Schnauzers and Golden retrievers. Often von Willebrand’s will show no clinical signs until the dog begins bleeding for some reason. This reason could be something as simple as a nail trim, spay or neuter or a heat cycle in females or even teething in a puppy. While some dogs never show clinical signs of the disease, others may have nosebleeds or vaginal or penile bleeding. Bleeding from the urinary tract, gums or other mucous membranes and hemorrhaging under the skin are all common symptoms of von Willebrand’s Disease. Females with von Willebrand’s may experience excessive bleeding after whelping (giving birth). There are three classifications of von Willebrand’s disease: Type I – low vWF concentration. This is the most common of types and is typical of Dobermans, Airedales and at least one-third of Shelties. The clinical symptoms may vary in severity. Type II –Uncommon form of von Willebrand’s that is attributed to German Shorthaired Pointers. Type III – The most severe of types. It has the highest deficiency of vWF and is a typical defect in Scotties, Chesapeake Bay retrievers and the remaining two-thirds of affected Shelties. Studies have shown hyperthyroidism may raise the risk of bleeding complications in animals that have von Willebrand’s Disease. To diagnose von Willebrand’s Disease a veterinarian will often conduct a CBC (complete blood count), urinalysis, blood clotting time or a “buccal mucosal” screening time. The buccal mucosal bleeding time uses a test strip that is tied around the maxilla (upper jaw) that then causes engorgement in the folded-back area. Normal blood clotting time is somewhere between 1.5 to 2.6 minutes. It is interesting to note many Dobermans and other high risk breeds may go through routine ear trims, tail docks, early spays or neuters and show no signs of von Willebrand’s then at a much later time in their life show the classic symptoms. There is no cure for von Willebrand’s but there are some precautions an owner can take to reduce the risks to their dog. Avoid drugs that are known to inhibit platelet functions. Aspirin is a prime example of one of these drugs. Others include antihistamines, sulfa- or penicillin based antibiotics, Ibuprofen, the tranquilizer phenothiazine, heparin and theophylline. Veterinarians have found that thyroid supplementation can lower the tendency in some dogs to bleed while raising the level of vWF concentration. There is also a drug called DDAVP that can also increase the vWF protein concentration although the response to the drug is variable. It has been shown to raise the concentration in dogs that do not have von Willebrand’s disease. The use in these dogs may not be apparent until it is realized it takes a dog to donate blood for a transfusion to another dog. In case of an emergency or severe trauma, this donated blood is often the only thing that can save the dog’s life. For owners of breeds that are more prone to having von Willebrand’s disease, there is a specialized test that can determine the exact amount of the von Willebrand protein that is present in the blood. If the test comes back positive for the disease, it won’t necessary help the dog on a daily basis but will come in handy to know if the dog ever requires emergency treatment or undergoes any type of surgery. Von Willebrand’s disease isn’t an automatic death sentence to dogs. Many of the dogs that have the condition will live normal lives with no complications. For those that do show clinical signs, there are always options for the owner to guarantee the best quality of life the pet can have. Written by Tenna Perry Title: Canine Von Willebrand's disease Description: Von Willebrands Disease is the most common of bleeding disorders in dogs and humans. Symptoms diagnosis and general information of the condition Copyright 2001 by PageWise, Inc.

Quote: Canine Von Willebrand's Disease Von Willebrand's disease (VvWD) is an inherited bleeding disorder. It is a complex and difficult disorder to deal with, because genetics, diagnostic abnormalities, pathogenic mechanisms, and sometimes conflicting clinical signs are all involved. The commonality between all vWD is a reduction in the amount or function of von Willebrand factor (vWF), which is manifested through abnormal platelet function and prolonged bleeding time. The vWF factor is a blood protein which binds platelets to blood vessels when they are injured. Absence or deficiency of the factor can, therefore, lead to uncontrolled bleeding episodes. In dogs, the most common clinical signs are spontaneous bleeding from the gums or nose, blood in the urine or gastrointestinal tract, or excessive bleeding at the time of surgery. Clinical signs also include epistaxis, prolonged estrus or postpartum bleeding, hematuria, melena, excessive bleeding after toe-nail cutting and sometimes hemorrhaging into body cavities and organs. Diagnosis can be performed by measurement of plasma concentrations of vWF. TESTING SHOULD BE DONE AT AN EARLY AGE SINCE THE DISORDER OFTEN DIMINISHES WITH AGE, CAUSING FALSE-NEGATIVE TEST RESULTS IN OLDER ANIMALS. Additional screening tests such as bleeding times or platelet agglutination assays can also be performed. Precautions should be taken before surgery, so it is important to let your veterinarian know of bleeding problems in the past. Different breeds exhibit different variations of the disease, and some individual animals appear to "acquire" vWD. While the bulk of the information available is based upon purebred dogs, the disease is not unknown in mixed breeds. The total number of breeds affected by vWF exceeds 50. The disease also appears in cats, pigs, horses, and humans. Human variants of vWD are broken into three main types which can be used to describe canine vWD. Type I vWD is characterized by a low concentration of normally structured protein. In screening studies done at Cornell over a period of years (1982-1992), percentages of dogs of some breeds tested as carrying the disease, and with concentrations of vWF less than 50% of standard (considered to be at risk) were the following breeds: Corgi, Poodle (std. and min), Scottie, Golden Retriever, Doberman, Sheltie, Akita, Cairn. Other breeds with a known prevalence of vWD in excess of 15% include Basset Hound, Dachshund (mini & std), German Wirehaired Pointer, German Shepherd, Keeshond, Manchester Terrier (std & toy), Miniature Schnauzer, and Rottweiler. Type II vWD is characterized by a low concentration of abnormal vWF. Breeds in which severe type II has been diagnosed include American Cocker Spaniel, German Shorthaired Pointer, and German Wirehaired Pointer. Type III vWD is essentially the complete absence of vWF. Severe type III vWD has been diagnosed in Australian Cattle Dog, Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Fox Terrier, German Shepherd, Scottie, and Shetland Sheepdog. In vWD dogs, bleeding can be spontaneous, usually from the mucosa of the mouth, nose, or gastrointestinal tract. Injury that is accompanied by bleeding may continue unabated until a transfusion is administered. Whether or not bleeding from small wounds will stop without treatment is not predictable. Living with one of these affected animals can get quite interesting. Because this disease can be eradicated before breeding (by having your dog tested) it can be eradicated. Unfortunately, experience and hearsay indicate that the AKC is not active in the enforcement of these preventive measures. Apparently the breeders, at least some of them are not either. Testing prior to breeding is a must. For those who wish additional information, an excellent source concerning the disease is Ettinger's Textbook of Veterinary Internal Medicine. Sources: Ettinger's Textbook of VIM; Sue Tornquist, DVM, Veterinary Clinical Pathologist, Dept. of Vet. Micro Pathology, Washington State Univ; Gary Mason, Research Manager, Interleaf, Inc. Waltham, MA.

Posted by Sandi J ...Faith got sprayed by a skunk(peeeuuuu) and I tried all the regular remedies. Finally I called the track and was told to use 3 parts(a part is whatever container you are using to measure ex: a measuring cup etc.) of Scope ( I used Wal-Mart brand) one part shampoo ( any kind) , one part white vinegar and one half part baking soda. Mix the liquids well then add baking powder and stand back because its going to foam up. I felt like Ricky Ricardo making Arroz com Poulho. My son and I slapped this mixture all over her and she took off running around the yard like crazy. We let it stay on until it dried and the baking soda turned white then washed her down. The next day sniff sniff... aahh perfect...

You can find the article formatted and in it's entirety here The Importance of being Alpha One of the most misunderstood concepts in responsible dog ownership is establishing dominance. As a fundamental part of the pack structure, it is one of the most important elements in having a healthy relationship with a dog and effects everyone in the household. It's the importance of being alpha, leader of the pack, ruler in the household. Leadership is not established by a democratic process or a popularity contest. And it's critically important to the well-being of the dog. In her book, Playtraining Your Dog, Patricia Gail Burnham has the following description for being alpha: Being a pack leader means more than dominating the other pack members. Pack Leadership is a civil service job. The leader exists not for his own sense of power, but for the benefit of the pack. He sees that the pack survives, that it stays safe and fed and sheltered from the weather. He provides protection and makes the decisions that are responsible for the health, diet, comfort, safety and activities of the pack. When a person assumes pack leadership these are the responsibilities that go with the position. Much of the media surrounding greyhound adoption focusing on the more negative aspects of the breeding, training and handling of the dogs leads many adopters to conclude that normal transitional behavior is symptomatic of the environment from which the dogs come. In the attempt to make the new dog comfortable in its new home, they very often over compensate and fail to demonstrate clear signals that they are the leader in the house. In trying to show care and compassion, they end up doing a real disservice to their new pet and contributing to the stress of the change. More troublesome, however, is the effect of uncertainty over the family alpha on the longer term behavior of the new dog. Greyhounds are very aware of pack order whether it is within the family or among other dogs. All breeds of dogs are this way to some extent; it is, however, it is a very strong behavior with greyhounds. A greyhound that is allowed to become the dominant member of the family is a greyhound headed for trouble; the kind of behavior trouble that frequently leads to being returned to the adoption program or surrendered to an animal shelter. On the other hand, a shy or spooky greyhound who does not have the security of knowing who is the leader in the household may become even more confused, apprehensive, withdrawn and timid. Many of the problems new adopters have with their dogs could really be just plain alpha problems. If the dog sees himself as alpha, then he has the right (in his mind) to intimidate or ignore YOU. In its most extreme form, a dog may growl or snap. It is important to realize what is going on, and to begin to take the alpha position right away. The dog cannot be allowed to get away with this behavior - it is a dangerous situation for all involved. In the case of a shy, insecure dog, a strong reliable leader is probably the most important element in helping the dog gain self-confidence and emerge from fearful behavior. An owner may observe a dominant dog jockeying for position first hand. It can be quite subtle. There may not be any growling/snapping during a dominance challenge. The contest is usually a more indirect displays of dominance, like taking other dogs' toys, walking around as they please (i.e. stepping on who they choose), taking other dogs' beds, getting a dog to stop growling at them with a mere look or head snap. There are some simple, benign ways to establish leadership with a dog. They are not difficult or confrontive and can be used in any combination that fits the owner's lifestyle, schedule and needs. The key to success is patience and consistency. Owners also need to know that dogs will continually test the pack order, and will move up the ladder if someone lets him. Job Michael Evans in People Pooches and Problems describes a number of methods to effectively establish dominance over your dog. Some examples are as simple as: Never let your dog in or out of any door before you. Never let your dog do something important (i.e., eating, or getting into or out of a car) without you giving that dog permission. Give treats only for training purposes or exceptionally good behavior such as a dog following your commands - no free treats. Try not to lose control and yell at your dog in anger. Use body language and low-growly voices to let your dog know that you don't appreciate his behavior - standing real tall is also good to do. Don't let your dog sleep in your bed - you are confusing it as to pack order and asking for trouble. Terry Ryan teaches canine behavior at the College of Veterinary Medicine at Washington State University and has written in various forums on the subject of developing an appropriate relationship with dogs. In her recent article in the AKC Gazette, she suggests similar routines including: Get your dog's attention and encourage eye contact several times a day. Use feeding time to demonstrate dependability and leadership by feeding on a regular schedule. Control the territory by insisting that your dog moves out of the way instead of stepping over him. Practice dominance interaction with your dog regularly including gentle handling, belly rubs, and muzzle control. Integrating some of these small changes in the way an adopter handles their new dog can help make for a successful transition and long-term relationship. We want to thank Lynda Adame for providing the reference material on alpha behavior. Lynda lives in San Pedro, California with her adopted greyhound, Tice, and volunteers with Retired Racers, Inc. in Acton.

taken out of context Sorry! I worked all weekend so am just getting around to checking the board. How long have you had Harry? It took a good 6-8 months for Demps to get to where I wasn't afraid to come home. First, pick up that treat immediately when you get home, whether or not he has eaten it. Instead of it being something that calms Harry down, it is being linked with you coming home. Not good. It's probably a good idea to keep using it and hopefully he will eventually calm down enough to benefit from it. Have you spoken to your vet? I am not big on medication, but Clomicalm was something I went for after 1 month. It didn't change Dempsey's personality and he never seemed "drugged". It was about $35/month- definitely worth it even if you have to eat ramen noodles the whole time. Seriously! The Clomicalm just helps with that anxiety enough so that the behavior modification you are implementing will even be noticed. Harry is probably so worked up that he doesn't even notice what you are doing- other than leaving. Can you get a new crate so he cannot escape? I know they are expensive, but it sounds like the crate is probably the best, safest place for him at the moment. Maybe your group has one you can borrow or check the classified ads, that is where I found mine. Consistency is important in the sense of doing the same thing when you leave and get home. But, it's good to be inconsistent about the times you are leaving. I think it would be good if you could leave Harry home a bit each day. It is probably more harmful if he is rarely left alone because you aren't able to work on the problem. Ignore him for about 15 minutes before you are going to leave. Put him in his crate, show no hesitancy or doubt on your part, give him his treat, and leave. Just go get the mail or take a walk around the block. Come back in, make him be quiet before you let him out of the crate, then ignore him for another 15 minutes. It is hard because they will do everything they can to get their attention, but do ignore him. Eventually, you probably won't have to ignore him, but that will be quite awhile. Increase the amount of time that you are gone. Has Harry been through obedience class? I so strongly recommend this for dogs with SA. It helped improve D's confidence so much. We were at a M&G and one of his trainers came in and could not believe it was the same dog. It is also good for the dog to know commands like sit and down for when you come home and he is really excited. Increase exercise. This helped us so much. I made those walks so much longer. If Harry is tired, he is much more likely to sleep. Those are the big ones that really helped in our situation. Here's the list that I put together. Make sure you really examine your environment to see what could affect the anxiety- for Demps, one of the things turned out to be the answering machine. Separation Anxiety Tip #1 Invest in a Kong or two (at pet stores), it will become your best friend. Fill the Kong with goodies- dog cookies, etc and seal with peanut butter, cream cheese, or plain yogurt. I found that Dempsey had fewer pooping accidents if we did not use kibble in the Kong. Give your dog the Kong every time you leave him/her alone and pick it up again as soon as you get home. You can even freeze the Kong so that it lasts longer. Your dog will learn to associate your departure with getting a yummy treat. It took some time, but Dempsey now gets excited when he is left alone- because he knows he's getting a treat! Tip #2 If you crate your dog, do not crate only when you leave him/her alone. Crate your dog while you are in the room watching television, cleaning, or doing whatever. You may want to even consider feeding your dog in the crate. Give treats in the crate. If you only crate when leaving your dog home alone, she/he will learn to associate the crate with being home alone- not what you want! Make the crate a positive place to be. Tip #3 Do not, do not, do not make a big deal out of coming and going. If you spend a lot of time loving on your dog before leaving or when you first arrive home, s/he will get excited and think it's a big deal. You want your dog to learn that you leaving or getting home is nothing to be excited about. Before you leave, ignore your dog for about 15 minutes. Do not give attention, pet, etc right before you leave. Also, when you get home, ignore your dog for about 10 - 15 minutes. I know this can seem really mean, but it is best for your dog in the long run. In addition, it is probably a good idea to act neutral as well when your dog is going along with you so s/he continue to think departures are no big deal. Tip #4 Obedience class can help build confidence a lot. We took an 8 week class over the summer and the instructors were pretty surprised by how Dempsey really came out of his shell and quit cowering behind me. And hey, it can't hurt to have a dog who knows how to sit and stay! Make sure you practice at home as well. Practicing commands can be a nice way of bonding with your dog, increasing confidence, and tiring him/her out before you leave! Tip #5 Does your dog try to be in constant proximity of you? It may seem cute and sweet but do not encourage it. Dempsey used to have to have some part of his body always touching mine. Made it pretty difficult to even go to the bathroom! Gradually work on putting some physical distance between you and your dog- scoot away on the couch or sit in a different chair. If your dog constantly has to be touching you, how will you make it to work? Dempsey used to follow me up and down the stairs constantly- he couldn't be alone in a room for even a few seconds! (This may not be unusual when your dog first arrives, but when it continues, it can be a problem). Work on this as well- go to the bathroom alone and shut the door all the way, go upstairs, etc. Work on being out of sight of your dog, increasing the amount of time you are in different rooms from each other. Tip #6 Where does your dog sleep? If she/he sleeps in your bed, you might want to consider a doggie bed. Put your dog's bed next to yours or in the same room and encourage the dog to sleep there. (I know this is hard, especially during winter since greyhounds sure are warm!) Tip #7 Does your dog have problems with defecating or urinating in the house or crate? This was the part of Dempsey's separation anxiety that stuck around the longest. Nothing seemed to work. I moved his bed to the area (right in front of the door) where he kept pooping. He would just go on top of his bed and finally ruined the bed. What helped the most was to feed him in this spot and keep his dishes there. It's a pain since it's right near the door, but it was SO worth it! Make sure you clean the area as best as you can so there is no remaining smell to encourage future peeing or pooping. Take the dog out of the room while you clean (and light some candles for your own benefit!). Also, make sure you have learned your dog's schedule and when he/she needs to actually go (usually about 20 minutes or so after eating, if you feed commercial kibble) and give him/her opportunity to go. Tip #8 The window blinds or curtains can be important to consider. I used to always leave the blinds open, thinking it would reassure Dempsey to see outside. Although this does work for some dogs, it was not for Dempsey. As soon as I started leaving the blinds closed, he did better. Now, if he wants to see outside, he peaks around the edge of the blinds. I live in an apartment building and the windows face the parking lot. With people constantly coming and going, I think it was just too much excitement for him! Tip #9 Do not be afraid to ask your vet about medication. Dempsey was on Clomicalm for about 5 months. One month's supply is about $35. After about 4 months, I cut the dose in half and after another month, he was completely off of it. He showed no side effects whatsoever from the Clomicalm. If you do decide to use this medication, expect up to a month or two to see effects. If Clomicalm doesn't work, there are other medications available. Rescue Remedy is another thing to consider and is safe as well (available at GNC). Our holistic vet gave us a combination of Bach remedies and this seemed to help as well. If you are not satisfied by the response from your vet, go on to another one! Tip #10 Try leaving a piece of clothing that you have recently worn with your dog. Your scent may help to keep him/her calm. Favorite stuffed animals may also help calm your dog. Even an old shoe might help. Dempsey loves to carry shoes around and sleeps with his nose in them (gross, I know, but he doesn't chew!). Tip #11 Exercise!! Increase your dog's amount of exercise- a tired dog is a sleeping dog! And exercise is good for you, too! I know that in the morning, it can be difficult to increase exercise and still allow the recommended 2 hours before/after feeding. Do the best you can. (Here is where obedience classes help, you can just practice commands as extra exercise!). Tip #12 Are there cues that signal your departures? Mess with these. Carry your keys around and jingle them, carry your purse around, put your shoes on, put some make-up on (but don't leave!). I sometimes shower at night and sometimes in the morning- just to confuse Dempsey. I put my make-up on at work and don't blow dry my hair very often. Dog's pick up on these cues and try to predict when you'll be leaving. Dempsey used to sit on the couch with pure panic on his face when I got out of the shower in the mornings (and it wasn't from the towel on my head!) Tip #13 Try leaving the TV or radio on when you leave your dog behind. The noise can help keep outside noises at a minimum and also be comforting to your dog. I quickly learned that Dempsey didn't like being alone in the dark (weird dog) so I leave a light or TV on when I go somewhere at night. Tip #14 I make sure that the volume on my answering machine is off when I leave. When I am home and it goes off, Dempsey gets excited. It is probably confusing to dogs to hear their owner's voice, but not be able to find him/her! Tip #15 Does your dog like toys? Leave several out each day, but vary them day to day so he/she gets different ones each day. Tip #16 Do you need other people to talk to about this? There is now a mailing list at www.egroups.com called k9sepanx for humans who have dogs with separation anxiety. A great place to get new ideas from or just vent! Tip #17 Keep a journal. Since Dempsey's main problem after his anxiety had decreased some, was pooping every time he was left alone, I had to vary his diet and when he ate. Keeping track of everything he ate, when, how much, etc and writing down messes/getting into things, etc really helped me pay attention to what I was doing. Tip #18 Do you have access to a videocamera? Stick it out of reach of your dog and have it record while you are gone. Usually, if the dog is going to do something, it is within the first 30 minutes or so of departure. Actually being able to see what your dog is doing might give you some insight into what to try. GOOD LUCK!!! Heather Wester PS- I forgot, the journaling was a HUGE help in figuring out what was going on with Dempsey. And lots of wine!

Great Information

Bee stings are acid. Remove the sting and bathe the area in bicarbonate of soda. (Baking Soda and Water) Wasp stings are alkali, and the sting is not left in the skin. Bathe the area in vinegar as the sting is alkaline.

Dremel tips Scroll down to "How To Dremel Dog Nails" and click Alternate link-Click HERE

Just found this site. Had all sorts of link to Grety info. Here is just the tip of the needle. Aggression Barking Children & Dogs Coprophagia (stool eating) Deafness/Blindness Destructive Chewing & Digging Dominance/Leadership Jumping More Than One Pet Loud Noises/Thunder Nail Trimming Pulling on Lead Separation Anxiety Shyness Submissive Urination Others Lots of Info