XTRAWLD

So the boys had a LARGE turkey drum each on Tues night. Their poops are really really firm. I know there is a lot of bone in the turkey but the poops are still firm 2 days later. Anything I can give to help them out a bit? Does an increase in tripe help this?

The halti tester I had hooked to him I did not see this option - perhaps that's with the Gentle Leader instead? (which I might also demo tonight too).

Good for you for checking. Now you have peace of mind! Clearly he's got an escapee on his hands and it's good that he's taking precautions.

Today is his "walking" class and I will be trying a halti - since he pulls like a dickens on our walk. When we test fit last week, I was impressed and I really didn't think one belongs on a GH but seeing it in practice I'm willing to give it a whirl. I'm actually hoping this will control his swerving too as I would like to start to light jog with him..... Will keep you all updated.

Our neighbours weren't understanding also at our old house. We actually had to put a padlock on our gate, as we found one of the kids in our yard on multiple occassions. Do they think they should can go to another person's yard/property and stand there? Really? Our neighbour had a Staffordshire (she was a suck) but that same kid stood in her yard too waiting "wanting to play with the dog." Just the other night we were walking the boys in the neighbourhood at night. A man, with his young daughter and BRAND NEW PUPPY are walking towards us. Obviously both our boys are at attention and we are both holding our boys strongly trying to continue our walk up the street. The guy zip lines his puppy and lets him approach our boys, who are at full attention. We turned and moved on our way just in time as the puppy was scrambling to us. We told him, "don't do that unless you want that puppy to be their dinner." He smiled, oblivious to what we just said and walked on. The girl was telling daddy "look the dogs like that" encouraging the puppy to walk towards them and squeak. I can't believe some people sometimes. We always use the "breakfast/lunch/dinner" approach. Most people actually get it, but what bothers me is when you see us HOLDING our dogs back, and your dog comes up to us....each and every time....can't you tell we don't want you near us? I'm a small frame girl, and it's a struggle for me to hold both of them back when walking them....yet people walk RIGHT up to me with their dog, even when I deviate from the sidewalk to the grass or even the road. SHEESH

She was in the house when he passed away correct? It's probably really traumatic for her I would guess? I think you just need to spend lots of time with her, leave a radio on when you are away so the whole house isn't silent. Give her lots of love, a nice soft bed, etc. I have read that giving them a toy or blanket with the scent of the one that passed away on it can help. She can still smell that he's home..... There were a few good articles I recall reading in the Dogs in Canada magazine about helping a grieving dog, When Dogs Grieve and Do Dogs Mourn. Don't forget that you still need to grieve too. I'm so sorry to hear about his passing.

Very sorry to hear the news. I just started reading the thread this morning, but didn't make it to the second page until now....

Brushing has never been successful. The only time brushing works is right after a dental. You'd have to keep up with it daily or every other day to make sure there isn't any plaque buildup. Once buildup happens though, brushing is really pointless other than massaging the gums. We have used Leba II (spray) and it works really really well, as long as you don't forget to administer it (twice a day for a month for best results). We also use a gel, but that hasn't done as much as the spray has. Of course chewing and gnawing on bones/treats help. Now that we are feeding raw (going on two weeks), the boys are really chewing up hard bones, but to be honest I haven't seen a change regarding the plaque on their teeth yet. We might still have to do a dental, which we have been avoiding for years.....

I give up. I've tried staggering the feeding schedules. I've tried once a day, twice a day, three times a day. I've tried different amounts of food at different meals. I've tried a big bedtime snack, no snack ,small snack. Without fail Ryder throws up between 3-6 in the morning. Last night at 430, Sat morning around 530. It's at least 3 times a week. I am taking him to the vet to get looked at. This is getting ridiculous. I can't sleep because whenever I hear him move I'm alert and running out the bedroom door to try to catch him before he pukes on the carpet, if hubby hasn't already heard him too and running out as well - so he disrupts sleep for both of us. It's happening so often I decided to leave towels out in his general puking area, that's how common this is becoming. He of course missed the towel I laid out, and of course never aims for the laminate. So I have to sit there and clean the spot at whatever time he throws up. Can't fall back asleep, and when I do it's already time to get up to go to work. This has got to stop.

This is so sad. Do you have a trusted neighbour or nearby friend that can help you bring her home until she is settled? You might have to do some running around to collect things before you bring her home. 2 people is always easier than 1 to help move a grey. I concur with the chiro or acupuncture. I haven't done it myself, but hear it does wonders from people I have spoken with. We are all praying for you.

Chewing kibble helps clean the plaque off their teeth. Both my boys have always swallowed kibble whole, defeating the purpose. Ryder would WOLF down food like he has never seen it a day in his life. There is an argument out there that swallowing the kibble whole as opposed to chewed that they aren't extracting everything they can from them (but that's debateable because in your tummy is in your tummy, any way shape or form). Because Ryder was wolfing it down so quickly, to prevent bloating, we put a chain in his bowl. This would cause him to eat slower, thus not inhaling as much air with his food, reducing the chance of bloat. To help clean their teeth, they can chew on various bones/treats that they really need to gnaw at, it would likely do a better job than just chewing kibble anyway. Lots of info here to research about that.....

I'm bringing this back to life. We watched it for a whole season or so, after that it started to get old. Usually it's the same problems that are recycled and a lot of them are caused by the owners, the dog continues to act up and we have a vicious circle. Some of his training methods I get and I agree with, but some other ones just wouldn't work for most people. You need an assertive person to pull off a lot of what he does, and continue to have that assertiveness to keep the dog on track. What we did pull out of the show is "Rules, Boundaries, Limitation" and exercise or giving them a job to do, and walks are important. I can handle Cesar, especially after understanding his amazing background/biography that got him to where he is and what he has become. The guy that does At the End of My Leash annoys me to no end.

I cracked an egg for both boys yesterday and put the shell in with the food, since I'm pretty sure they would pick up the egg and run around the house with it in their mouth......Ryder crunched up the shell yesterday like a champ. LOL he left behind a little that he didn't want to deal with though. Kasey on the other hand won't go near the shell. Can't wait for the warmer weather when they can have a hay-day outside....

He ate for the whole week just fine. Great results, it was still our pork belly and riblets and tripe mix. I haven't yet introduced a different meat or organ yet. As I said he gets runny poop usually the day of a run, but recovers usually by the next morning. This is not the case this time around. It was easy to fast him, because he was not interested in ANY food. I even thought, hmm, maybe he wants kibble, but nope, no interest. I was able to give him a little rice and some yogurt (which has always worked on him in the past). I've never had D last this long on him though and still remain unchanged, and the whole meal that was thrown up really caught me off guard. Last night he actually ate some bone and some tripe, didn't want to touch the pork belly or any egg. This morning he ate rice and yogurt again, he had some dehydrated liver and lung this morning as my "goodbye for the day treat" and drank some beef broth. I've actually never given him beef broth before so I'm interested to see how it will work out. He still has pretty liquid poop. He's on the verge of being picky while still being sick. He is fine in the house, wags his tail, walks up to us pretty much happy. He will eat food he likes and wants to eat, but won't touch the raw pork.

We were going great for a week and all of a sudden Kasey started getting the runs. It happened when we got to a run. Now Kasey even on kibble would get runs on days we went for a run (bad verbiage there)! He's super excited and it always results in very loose stool. Yesterday was almost explosive poop though. Finished our run (where he actually had a mishap and fell and got stepped on that resulted in a bleeding toe.) Anyway, threw up at 3am (food and the whole bit). We took him out and he had more of the runny, liquidy poop. His anus itself is very very dark, almost black. He's not the dog that throws up bile if his stomach is empty. He actually hasn't thrown up on us for YEARS so something is wrong. My question that I need answered as quickly as possible - I'm currently getting some rice ready for him and that's it for now. Wondering if should fast him (probably the best idea) or give him anything else? He's allergic to chicken, so please no chicken broth suggestions...although I am considering beef??? He's also drinking, so no dehydrated issues yet.

Thanks for the follow up. What an amazing vet staff you have found. We could all only be so lucky!

Thanks! They really did enjoy the egg last night and no ill effects so far I'll have to try the shell version one day outside....that would be an absolute hoot to see what they will do.

The leaders were just a "fitment" test. The actual walking will take place next week. I don't know if the other woman that was there was a vet, but she was a dog trainer of some sort. I do think some people need the basic dog keeping stuff, but it really was a waste of time for me, but not for Ryder. The more I can get him out there, exposed to new people and things, it's always a win. He is a puller on our walks. Especially when we had the HUGE episode of him refusing to walk last year and I needed to take him on a 1.5 hour walk to correct him. I don't want that happening again. He is an amazing bundle of energy, and while we have tried to make him stop pulling on our walks, he still continues to do so.....I'm not against trying the halti. I don't think I should shut the idea out before giving it an honest go. Nearly a year in and choking him on our walks just isn't cutting it anymore.

Wow. I have groom/hot walking experience, so I can relate to the walking of the horses.....but didn't realize the dog should be on the left. HMPH. I walk them (because I have to walk 2 dogs at the same time often) in a myriad of different ways for different reasons. (I won't get into that yet). When I have a single dog, I walk them on my right side. I'm right handed, so I've always found when controlling the dog, my right arm and hand are strongest. I loop the leash (5ft) over my right wrist, hold the slack in my left, and hold the leash with my right I'd say with about 1-2 foot away from his collar and Ryder/Kasey is to walk beside me. Sometimes I'm lazy and let him walk slightly ahead, but they are still in an offset track from my steps. When I let R or K sniff and do his thing I let him take the slack, but I always keep about a half foot available should he suddenly bolt and I don't end up doing a face plant. Ryder is still rather young, things get his attention, and sometimes he's so wound up he just wants to let loose on his energy. Kasey used to love to poop and just LAUNCH into a full run when he was finished. Stuff happens. I use a harness sometimes, collar most of the time, but in my obedience class last night they have introduced us to Halti's and Gentle Leaders....and I'm approaching that idea with an open mind. So, when I decide to run because he clearly has energy, I gather up the leash again and run with him at my side, sometimes he'll speed up, catch a scent and off he goes RIGHT in front of me. I think a stick or crop would help. Kasey has learned how to walk nice and straight with years of walking experience now in his memory. I remember when he used to wander just as badly. Except when we would bump into him he would learn his lesson. Ryder is a little stubborn. I've had him actually stop in front of me and bow to play! I sometimes use Kasey to help me keep Ryder straight on as well....like Kasey on the right of Ryder and I want to walk straight and Ryder wants to turn, Kasey is usually smart enough to walk straight-on (via verbal command) and keep Ryder going straight for me. Thank you all for your suggestions.

OH! A walking stick. Great suggestion!

Thanks for the info about the feet. When I see them next at the store, I'll pick them up and add some meat. Egg with the shell too???? NO WAY! That's cool. I gave my first egg last night, but I cracked it and put it in their bowl, they just lapped it up. Do you have an idea of how much meat I should remove in order to compensate for an egg? Gram wise? I know it's high in protein, I don't know if you can put a "weight" on it....

Any thoughts about how to discourage Ryder on cutting me off on our walks? I ask because I would like to start running with him. I'm not talking endurance running and working up to like half hour or hour runs. I just want to run for 5-10 minutes with him, to get his muscles warmed up to prevent any injury before going out to the dog parks, etc. However, on our walks, and on the odd time that we run for fun on our walk, we do a nice trot and he'll suddenly dart in front of me and stop, or just completely cut me off and I have to change direction or stop moving all together. Thoughts on how to discourage cutting me off? He does it SO FAST I hardly have time to react. He currently runs/trots at our side....

3rd class was last night. IMO it felt like a bit of a waste. We started with the circle and the socialization again. Ryder sat for people, yay. He got tangled up and stuck against the wall at one point and I ran over to get him untangled or he would have freaked and fell or broke a leg or whatever. The tie downs at the class are just TOO low for a greyhound, and it frustrates me. ANYWAY...... It was "poke, prod and push" night. Teaching your dog that doing stuff to them is essential and that they have to get used to it. You should be able to do what you want to your dog under any circumstances and working towards them not freaking out on you if you are grabbing an ear or a paw and holding and inspecting them for 30 seconds to a minute at a time. The idea is to make vet visits better. Ryder was an A student last night. Open jaw, stick in fist. Open up the eyeballs and look. Fold back the ears, lift and grab the tail......Next was basic care of your dog, clipping nails, when to take them to the vet, teeth brushing/cleaning, etc. Stuff I already know and understand. I do feel like it is important for Howard to teach this to his classes, a lot of dog owners are pure newbies and what better place to tell people how to handle your dog than when you are in Obedience School? It was just a class I didn't really pull any additional info away from. At the end of it we worked on putting a Halti or Gentle Leaders on our dog. I had a harness on Ryder but thought, what better place to try a Halti than here? So I grabbed a tester and put it on Ryder. I honestly didn't think it was going to work or fit, but it did. Aside from it sitting right by his eyeballs, it fit well. However he was unresponsive to requests to sit on our walk. He learned though not to pull. If you can control the head, you can control the dog. I went home without buying the Halti, as I wanted to try the other version (the gentle leader) as well. I think it will work for the sole purpose of not pulling on a walk, so I'm actually ok with the idea of putting it on him. I really appreciated having the time and the proper setting with 2 trained professionals around to guide me through it.

No sooner have I been worried about when Kasey will pack on weight - it has suddenly magically happened. Walking him yesterday (this is nearly a full week on raw) and his ribs are less pronounced and noticeable. I'm so happy!!!

The big pills are really hard to get down the throat for first time pill dosagers, I had a hard time with small ones let alone the huge ones fit for a horse versions. Throw them as far back into the mouth as you can. We find placing it perfectly centred, on the tongue as far back as possible works best. It was REALLY hard for me the first few times, pretty much gagged my dogs, but you'll get better with practice. Close the mouth, rub throat. Good luck! Give treats if you can after you are done so they don't associate giving pills with something bad. I agree, even the allergy versions of the Pill Pockets still contain mostly the wrong ingredients. Like I said - I use them in a pinch, when they HAVE to have a pill and the perfect pill popper in form of my husband isn't around.