krissy

I've never had a dog with a UTI, but for people it usually only takes a couple of hours after the first antibiotic dose to start feeling better. The earlier you catch it too the faster the drugs work (less bacterial load to fight). It will also help to take her out often so she gets a chance to flush the bacteria out in her urine. Regardless of feeling better though, make sure she finishes the entire course of antibiotics or the infection might come back and be resistant to the antibiotics. Hope your girl feels better soon!

It sounds like she had some sort of autoimmune skin condition, which means the pred dose she would have been on would have been immunosuppressive. That would of course put her at increased risk for getting infections, such as a UTI. Especially since you have a female, I would take in a urine sample and rule out a UTI first before you start worrying about it being a behavioural problem. EDIT: Having had a couple of UTIs myself... they are awful. The sooner you can get her started on antibiotics the sooner she'll feel better. UTIs can also turn into bladder or kidney infections which could become potentially life threatening. Never hurts to play it safe.

Mine is willing to sleep 18 hours a day. But he's also equally happy to be awake 18 hours a day. It sort of depends on what is going on. Today I've been home all day and he's been asleep since after breakfast. Other days he's out and about with me for most of the day, then agility class, then a greyhound run, then a hike.... Greyhounds really are the best. If you don't have time to exercise them a lot they'll sleep all day. If you want to be active they'll be active with you. There is some individual variation of course. Some really just never get off the couch!

Brand name is Amicar, the drug name is Aminocaproic acid in case your vet hasn't heard of Amicar.

The only thing I would say is not to put gauze directly on the wound. It'll stick and have to be ripped off and reopen the wound. If you have any non-adhesive first aid pads I'd put that directly against the wound, then gauze and then the vet wrap. I hope she has an uneventful trip tomorrow and a speedy recovery!

Being in an urban area the puppy doesn't have many off-leash areas to play with other dogs, all the dog parks you have to be payed/neutered, and the doggie daycare/playgroups require this as well. He is meeting dogs on the street, but that can be limited. Believe me, i totally get your point and i think he should be doing more.... I think if this is looked into more the rule probably has a lower age limit. It's not right that they would expect a 3 or 4 or 5 month old puppy to be spayed/neutered. Only shelters/rescues routinely alter that young and there is controversy about whether or not it is detrimental to their health. And socializing doesn't have to be done sans leash. Most of my dog's socialization is done on his leash on walks around the neighbourhood. As have all foster dogs and puppies that I've had. The dog park not allowing an unaltered puppy is an excuse to not socialize that puppy. The owner really needs to take things into his own hands and do the grunt work. Yes, having a dog park would be convenient, but sometimes having a dog is not always convenient, but it still needs to be taken care of. I walk my dog every day 3 times a day even though we have access to a fenced yard. Would it be faster and more convenient to let him out in the yard instead? Yes. But there are so many benefits to walking a dog. Socialization and exercise are among them. Walking helps to bond with a dog which translates into easier training. A lot of dog training places offer puppy socialization times. You bring your puppy for an hour of play with other puppies. Might be something to look into if this owner is looking for convenient.

He is or has already done all this! In fact the owner sees no problem with the digging at all! (drives me crazy!) He already tries to leave the dog in the back yard no matter how many times i remind him that the dog has no common sense whatsoever about what not to eat (plum pits in the yard....) and what behaviors are good, bad, ugly. He has tried socializing (As much as he can with the dog not fixed yet-next month), that part he is doing well on I will admit. The dog is very social, it just knows no boundaries.... the puppy does know sit....but that is it... I appreciate all your input, i know nothing about puppies! I don't see what being fixed as to do with this. The puppy is not really at sexual maturity yet, therefore he doesn't need to be fixed in order to socialize. And even dogs that are sexually mature can still socialize, there are just precautions that need to be taken so as not to end up with an accidental litter. My friend didn't neuter her German Shepherd until he was a year old but he was out being socialized with people and other dogs from day one. Our retired racers socialize with each other all the time at turn out at the track, and they weren't neutered. When foster dogs arrive from the track the adoption agency doesn't tell you you can't socialize them until after their neuter/spay has been done. I even begin socializing puppies before they have had their vaccinations. I usually socialize them mostly with friends' dogs that I know are vaccinated, but if I'm out walking and meet another dog I'll ask if that dog is vaccinated and take the risk. In my experience parvo and distemper kill far fewer dogs in this day and age (since almost all dogs are now vaccinated) than poor socialization and owner surrender. Your friend needs to start socializing and training this dog or he is going to be an absolute nightmare that no one wants to be around.

Are you using a crate with him? If so you can also crate him sometimes while you're home but can't supervise. Then he has no opportunity to have an accident. When you let him out of the crate take him right outside to pee. Also, if he peed just 20 minutes after being out, is it possible that he was marking as opposed to relieving himself? You said he looked at you and then peed. What was your reaction? Catching them in the act is your one best chance of really helping them "get it". Clap your hands or say "HEY!" to get his attention (and hopefully stop him mid-pee) then take him directly outside and praise, praise, praise when he goes. Don't come back in until he has done something. While he's out have the other person clean up with an enzyme cleaner to remove all scent. I have been told/read that the dog should not see you cleaning up the mess. A week is not very long for a dog to learn its name. We had our foster for 3 weeks and he never knew his name... which was just as well because then of course his name was changed when he went to his forever home. Our boy was a bounce and was named Dexter. We just started calling him Summit and he picked up on that pretty quick... but not in a week. A week is not very long for a new dog who has never had to respond to a name or learn other commands to know you're talking to him. They all get it. Don't worry. Unless there is a medical reason, he will get it. It just may take him a little longer than some of the others.

You may have better luck with a baby gate. Many dogs that are fine being alone in a room are NOT fine being alone in that same room with the door closed. Also, just because he's fine at home with the run of a room doesn't mean it'll translate to another house. Summit gets baby gated into our bedroom here. I did the same with him this summer when we stayed with someone for 2 months and he chewed a hole in their molding. I made some adjustments to find what worked for him and things resolved. When we visit my BF's family he has to stay in a crate and he's definitely a little less settled when we leave him. Not because of the crate but because of the strange environment and that we're walking out the door. At home he knows we're coming back, but he's not so sure when we go somewhere different. I'd go back to basics and do some alone training. I also wouldn't ever use a crate with him. Muzzle him and put up a baby gate. See if that works for him. It may or it may not. I tried that over the summer with Summit after his chewing incident and he knocked down the baby gate the first day and the next day he jumped it. Had his muzzle on the whole time though so at least he couldn't get any more woodchuck ideas.

We have been so fortunate that we have never had to worry about housetraining very much. Summit was a bounce and was already trained when we got him. Before him we had a foster boy straight off the track that we did have to train, but he really gave us no trouble at all. With our foster we did exactly as everyone is saying. First thing in the morning I let him out of his crate and we went out right away. I tried to make it home at lunch if I was going to be at school until 5:30, and then regardless of what time when I got home I let him out of his crate and took him outside right away. When we were home on weekends and in the evenings we took him out every hour or two. We only had one accident which happened the very first night we had him. It was no one's fault really. We had taken him around the block when we got home with him and he peed. But it was past midnight by the time we got home with him so since he peed a few times we took him inside to give him a tour of the apartment and show him his crate. Well, he took a #2 on the kitchen floor. So while I cleaned that up, BF took him right back outside. Never had a problem with him after that. Also, I'm not sure if this is more common with the boys or just my boy, but he never asks to go out. He never seems to HAVE to go out. I take him out 3 times a day (sometimes more if it's a weekend) and that's fine with him. The boy has an iron bladder. Sometimes I have to insist that he gets off the bed for last call.

Inflammatory bowel disease is always a possibility too. I'd try to rule out an allergy first by doing some food trials. You may have luck with a "novel protein" food such as Kangaroo or venison. I agree though that switching foods too often can be trouble. It generally takes a very gradual switch and about 2 months before you can definitively say that a food is not working.

Avoid dehydration (make sure they put him on some IV fluids), use kidney friendly drugs, avoid NSAIDs like metacam or make sure he's well hydrated wile taking his NSAIDs.

I'd take him to the vet. Most vets will get you in the same day for an eye problem. We don't mess around with those. The last thing you want is to let this go and have it develop into an ulcer. A lot of an ophtho exam can't be done without specific equipment. Unless an ulcer is REALLY bad you can't see it with the naked eye. All the best to Kasey. Hope it's nothing major!

"Marking" would fit if she had a UTI as well. The urgency makes them void small amounts more frequently. I would rule out a medical cause first and then if nothing turns up think about how you're going to modify the behaviour. I also believe that animals don't do things out of spite. It may seem like it sometimes, but there's always some other explanation. My rabbit may pee on my BF's stuff out of spite that he no longer gets nearly as much attention as when I was single, but a more likely explanation is that he's just being a male rabbit trying to cover another male's scent. I have no examples with Summit... he's pretty much perfect.

When something freaks Summit out I say "What was that!?" in a very happy, excited voice and offer a really good treat. If he statues and won't listen to me or take treats then I babble in a happy voice and shove the treat into his cheek. Usually once it's in his mouth he'll eat it. He's managed to get over a few fears this way. Not sure if what I did helped or if just being in the situation several times and nothing bad happening had anything to do with it.

Just my opinion, and no criticism intended. You don't sound like a Greyhound is the right dog for you. If you want a guaranteed affectionate, outgoing, playful dog and won't be happy with one that may end up being laid back, totally disinterested in playing--even aloof--you probably should not take a chance at this stage in your life on another Greyhound. Again, just my opinion based on what you've expressed! My last dog was a shelter dog. He was brilliant and beautiful, and absolutely perfect for me--at the time. But I'm older now, and I appreciate the quite companionship of a dog whose two favorite things are eating and sleeping! I agree with this, to a point. If what you want is a dog that will play with you at the drop of a hat or demand attention from you, constantly be trying to sit in your lap... then a greyhound is not for you. I have met a few greyhounds that were like that but they're few and far between. It is not that most greyhounds are not affection. In my limited experience the greyhound is very affectionate but in their own way. Summit rarely licks my face, but on the occasions when he does it warms my heart and is not so overzealous that I want to push him away like a lab or golden. He doesn't jump all over me for attention... he comes up quietly and leans against my leg or rests his head on my knee or even just looks at me. He doesn't go into his toy box and pull out toys to shove into my hands, but every now and then he comes up to me very quietly and stares at me with a certain spark in his eye, then the tail starts wagging like crazy, and then he'll bark at me (the only time he ever barks in the house) once or twice before going into a play bow and tearing around the room. This is not your "typical dog". He doesn't communicate the way a "typical dog" does. But it doesn't make him any less affectionate, loving, or loyal than any other dog. He just does it in his own quiet, stately way. Having said that, does Summit fetch? Absolutely. But I had to teach him from square one. He doesn't really like toys or play with them, but if I get him going or he's in the right mood he'll tear around the backyard throwing a toy around. And is he openly sweet or affectionate? Yes, sometimes. He licks my face once in awhile like I said. When we were driving home from Columbus, Ohio a few weeks ago he did the sweetest thing. He stays in the backseat of my sedan and for the most part I don't really see him when I drive. If he stands up to turn around I see him in my rear view, and when I check my passenger side blind spot to change lanes I catch a quick glimpse of him. But other than that he just sleeps in the backseat and I let him be until we make rest stops. Well, after we'd been driving about 5 hours he got up and turned around, and put his head over the hammock to rest it on the middle console right beside my elbow, and just looked at me. He stayed like that for about 20 minutes, not making any attempts to demand attention, but just resting contentedly where he could see my face. That is what greyhound affection is. It's not in your face and if you're not paying attention you may miss it. And it means the world to me. I think what you need to do is decide if a greyhound is really what you want. Do you want a dog that will be bouncing around looking for something to do and someone to do it with while you're relaxing or working at home? Or do you want a dog that will mind his own business and sleep while you putt around the house and only jump up when there's actually something to do? There's nothing wrong with either... it just depends on what YOU want. All the best with your decision.

I agree. I don't accept mouthy behaviour from a little puppy, I certainly won't allow it from my 75 lb greyhound. Summit rarely gets mouthy, it's only when he gets REALLY excited which is usually in the morning when I get up that he may occasionally forget himself. I give a sharp "Eh eh" and usually cross my arms with my hands in my armpits and look away. Alternatively I give him something acceptable to mouth such as a toy... but he really has no interest in toys so mostly I just withdraw my attention for a moment. While it may be cute and harmless and she may only do it to you right now... that doesn't mean it will stay that way. She's just getting to know you and come out of her shell. I imagine she doesn't do this to other people because she doesn't really know them. But if you were to have the same friends over again and again, who like to give her attention, eventually she's going to get comfortable enough with them to and try to nit them. And what happens when your friends start having children and bringing them around. I know she means well, but to me a dog's teeth should never touch human skin and we should find other ways to play with our dogs. Just my thoughts.

For some it's just a body type. It's like how all humans have the same basic structure but the shape is a little different. My boy is tall and lean (aka "too skinny"). I used to feed him 4 cups of good food, then when he started getting a lot of training treats I backed his food off to 3 cups a day because I didn't want him to get fat. Well, he didn't get fat. I now continue to only feed him 3 cups a day because he wasn't putting on weight at 4 anyway, and he's not losing weight or showing signs that he's hungry at 3 (and let's face it, food is expensive). He's at his happy weight, and even though I can see a few more ribs than I would like I just let it be. He's a lanky, skinny boy with the metabolism of a freight train (at 6 years old I might add... lucky bum). Of course, he's not underweight which is maybe the difference. If your girl is underweight I can see that you would obviously want to get a few lbs on her.

[cough] Agility class. [cough] No, seriously, after some basic obedience I would do agility. I wish Summit was younger and had a little more energy. He loves agility, but he never really gets up to speed. Which is fine because we both enjoy it, but still, it would have been nice to enter some trials. You're lucky. It sounds like you have a young, energetic pup, and if he's also food motivated/inclined to learn you have the makings of a great agility greyhound.

Don't be so sure. My boy has opened a door with his muzzle on before. Maybe it was a fluke, but I wouldn't rule out what a dog can do with his front feet and his nose (even covered by a muzzle).

Most of the anxiety and destruction wit SA happens in the first 30 minutes, so practice many departures of 30 minutes and less throughout the day. The other thing I think helped with our foster boy was making him spend time alone while we were home. He was crated whenever we were gone and did fine with that, but he cried a bit when we would leave him. So I would crate him when I had a short day and I would sit in a different room and study. If he made too much noise I would give a correction from where I was. In general you shouldn't acknowledge any negative behaviours, but I was told that if you are somewhere where the dog can't see you that it's okay because it's just a disembodied voice to the dog. Not sure if that's true or not, but it worked for us. Edited for spelling.

Thanks everyone. I put a bit of CS on it. I will let it dry overnight and then probably wrap it again. He doesnt bother it and he doesnt usually hit his tail off of things. Problem is when he shakes he really shakes his tail at the end and then it starts all over. Not sure even wrapping is going to help that. I will get a pink curler tomorrow as well.

Thanks guys. Has anyone tried CS and leaving it unwrapped? Someone I know said this is what she did and it worked really well...the CS dried it out so it could heal. I do not really have much experience with CS but I know a lot of people swear by it for just about everything. Miracle drugs make me a little skeptical personally, but thought it was worth investigating.

Hey, anyone have any experience with happy tail? Of course it's the one greyhound thing I DIDN'T get to see while at OSU, and what does Summit do at a rest stop on the drive home? Okay, well, it wasn't exactly a "happy" tail... he got the very tip of it shut in a door (that will teach him to walk faster... kidding of course). Anyway, it was never bleeding profusely. I wrapped it right after it happened and have been wrapping it ever since to no avail. Every time the wrap comes off (I was removing it every day) it was still oozing. It's right at the very tip so it's nearly impossible to keep any pressure on it even with a wrap. I took him in to school today and clipped the hair off so I can look at it better. It's still oozing but can't really see much wrong. Looks like maybe the skin was scraped (you know like when you fall on grass and get a scrape) so I can't even put a stitch in it. I don't really know what else to do. Darned greyhounds and their medical anomolies!

I can, Krissy. It's a logical thing to suggest & more practice on that type of thing does help. But I don't want to always be throwing out commands & I'd like a way to help generalize some of these things. Does that make sense? What I want is for these things to be automatic. I guess you could say I want them to control themselves instead of me having to control them. Goofydog brought up a good example. Luna sees Toni & goes flying down the dog run to great her. I could yell, "Luna Sit," and the vast majority of time she will comply. Though in reality at this point it would probably take something like Luna Wait & then Luna Sit. She's too amped to stop mid-dash & pop into a sit. At the same time Luna realizes that she should sit to great rather than fly up to give hugs & kisses. However her enthusiasm still gets the best of her. I know, practice, practice, practice, but it's one of many examples where she has the knowledge & basic understanding. Saturday after leaping into the air to say "Howdy" she managed to pull it together into a sit. "Oh, oh, I know I should be sitting. See, I'm sitting now." It didn't take a command or scolding for her to do that but this time she just couldn't do it immediately. Other times, with other people she will flop into a sit instantaneously without a word from anyone but if no one acknowledges this fast enough her enthusiasm just may overwhelm her & "fling" she's pogo'ing up & down. "See! I'm sitting. No? Hey. [sproing] Look at me. [flop] See me sit. No? Look at me. [sproing] Ah, you're watching now. OK, see. [flop] I'm sitting again. TA-DA!" From a little snack-sized dog this is a bit annoying. From a staghound the size of her Deer mother this can scare to stew out of someone. And again there is the whole practice, practice, practice element that will help this particular scenario. But... Just looking for some general purpose impulse control exercises to help make the whole "Yes, you actually can control yourself" idea easier for her in addition to continuing to work on these situations in particular. Hope this is understandable. See but I wonder if the sit wouldn't become automatic with practice. For example, when Summit was learning to heel I would have to ask him to sit before we began and then every time I stopped I would have to ask him to sit. But now he sits immediately when he gets to heel position and sits as soon as I stop walking. I don't ask him anymore... he just knows that that's what I expect so he does it. Same as with waiting before dinner or getting out of the car. I could open the car door wide open to a busy street (I do obviously exercise more caution because I'd rather be safe than sorry) and he wouldn't jump out until I tell him "okay" even though I don't always officially tell him to wait. He just knows. And when he sees me put dinner in his bowl he finds his bed and lays down until I release him. So if you asked Luna to sit when a visitor arrived. I wonder if she wouldn't soon realize that she's always asked to sit when a visitor arrives and just start doing it automatically? I have to say Summit catches on to these things quickly and he's 6 and very laid back in nature so he probably has better impulse control to begin with. But like you said, practice, practice, practice!