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Time4ANap

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Posts posted by Time4ANap

  1. Don't let the word "aggression" deter you. Protecting their bed is natural, as they have had their own space (bed/crate) at the track and are not used to anyone encroaching on that space while they are in it. Greys will sleep with their eyes open. This could have easily been Sleep Startle, not Sleep or Space Aggression. Searching each of those terms here on GT will give you lots of information.

     

    A new hound should NEVER be approached or touched while sleeping until you know they are settled and okay with it. You always need to let them know you are approaching their bed, even if they appear to be awake. Even then, the best rule for all is to never pet the hound while on it's bed. Let the hound come to you for pets.

     

    We have a "no petting unless the hound is standing" rule in our house just to avoid such instances. It's not really a problem, because he is always showing up to be petted. We have had our boy for over 5 years and to this day, we still only pet him when he's standing so that we know he is awake. He is easily startled when sleeping and will growl / snarl / snap etc. As soon as he realizes that it's one of us, he backs off, but he is obviously not comfortable being touched while sleeping.

     

    If your hound is more of a snuggler, this may not be a problem down the road, but your hound is way too new to expect him to know that you are trying to play / pet when he's sleeping.

     

    This should have been covered by your group prior to adoption and in the reading materials that groups require you to read before applying.

     

    Welcome to GreyTalk. Be sure to post some pictures of your new hound when things get settled.

  2. We have people wait and put Rocket's leash on before they enter. It;s easier to control him if it's someone who really excites him. There are a few people that he just goes nuts over. It it's a service person here to fix something, the leash lets him know that he's not allowed to help them with the repair and has to stay with me. Once anyone is here for a few minutes, they become "old news" and he could care less, but like you, that initial minute at the door can be a fiasco.

  3. Big Red Flag. If I was doing that home check, there would be no greyhound adopted while the terrier is in the picture.

     

    As much as you want this hound to find a home, you don't want him to end up being labeled as vicious if he defends himself against the terrier. No dog should have to go through that. The situation would actually be too stressful for BOTH.

  4. We went through a little of this with Rocket when he was younger. DW did clicker training which helped. We attributed much of it to him "testing his boundaries" as he was becoming a teenager. He can still be stubborn when he want, but has mellowed significantly and will usually do what you ask.

     

    You will find at a year to eighteen months thatyour hound will figure out that she is "home" and not going anywhere, and it will be even more obvious with little things that she has settled in.

  5. I wouldn't give Immodium. Whatever is in there causing this needs to come out.

     

    Since it's liquid, make sure she is drinking. If she's not, I would try some Pedialyte or even a splash of Gatorade or chicken broth in her water to entice her to drink. Skip a meal or so, and go to a bland diet for a day or two, then slowly re-introduce a little kibble into it. If it continues, then a vet visit is in order. The vet will most likely give her metronidazole to address the diarrhea and help heal the stomach if this continues more than a day or two.

     

    If you go to the vet, try to take a stool sample if there is any substance to the stool. You can use a disposable plastic container and refrigerate a stool sample for a day or two if needed.

     

    Hope she's feeling better soon.

  6. De-worm first, even if she was de-wormed by the adoption group. It's not unusual to have to de-worm a couple of times for a dog off the track. If your vet is not used to dealing with hounds off of the track, they may not be aware that this is a fairly regular occurrence. I would try this before proceeding with any tests. Be aware that worms will not always show up in a fecal test, so de-worming is more of a "just in case" measure. Check with your vet to determine his/her preferred de-wormer and procedure.

     

    I would also give her a bland diet for a day or two to settle her tummy before switching any foods. Boiled ground beef or chicken with the fat drained off mixed with over-cooked mushy rice or pasta for a few days will also help settle things down. I usually switch to 4 smaller meals of this rather than twice a day feedings just so the tummy doesn't have to work so hard and the hound won't be as hungry between feedings.

  7. The food will have a "best by" or a "sell before" date on the packaging. I would only buy what you can use in that time. A wine cellar may be too humid - not sure though. I buy a couple 40 lb bags at a time and just keep them on a storage shelf in our laundry room,which is on the HVAC system so the temperature is consistently between 70 and 80 all year.

     

    You shouldn;t need any special storage containers if you use it by the date on the package.

  8. You may or may not have been dealing with space aggression. More likely, you were dealing with sleep startle. There is a difference.

     

    Our boy, Rocket has sleep startle. Even after 5 plus years, we have a "no petting unless he's standing" rule. All visitors are advised of the rule when they enter, and reminded even if they have been here numerous times. Rocket is not a cuddler, but comes to us for pets constantly and is attached to my hip if I'm up. Even if his eyes are open, he may be sleeping, which is why we require him to also be standing before we pet or touch him. He is literally the sweetest boy in the world, and makes me laugh constantly.

     

    Since Lester showed no signs of this prior to the bite, my money is on him being startled when your husband sat down. Greyhounds have been housed in their own crates at the track, and had their own "house" stating at 6 months of age in training. They are not used to being touched while they sleep. Many are not bothered by it, but some are hyper-sensitive about being touched while sleeping or having their space violated. It is always important to remember to make sure your hound is awake before approaching them or touching them until you know your hound. At 2 weeks, you do not know your hound.

     

    From experience; Rocket has bitten twice, and both times were due to being startled / touched while he was sleeping. Not his fault at all.

     

    If you don't have small children who are going to run over and hug or grab him while he;s laying down,or other pets that will lay down next to him, and you can enforce the rules about standing before petting, it sounds like you could provide a second chance for Lester. He is probably as upset about what happened as you are.

     

    Remember, a growl is not aggression, it's a warning that he's not comfortable with whatever is happening at that moment. A bite happens because he was caught off guard and felt he had to defend himself, which is what makes me think he was startled. If he was space aggressive, he most likely would have been defending his space and/or possessions from the beginning. It is important the knows you are there if you approach him while he's sleeping. Rocket sleeps on the floor next to my side of the bed. I don't approach his bed without letting him know that I'm there, even if all i do is say his name. He never startles or snaps if i do this.

     

    Good luck. I hope you are able to provide a second chance for Lester and that it works out.

  9. Almost anything which has - or could have - sharp edges could be the culprit so the milk bone may well be it. I take it he's not the sort to go stealing and eating things made of plastic etc or playing with sticks in the yard?

     

    He never bothers anything, ever. . He has never gotten into anything and doesn't tear apart his toys. . i think we could leave a raw steak on the counter and he wouldn't bother it since it's not his. I really think it had to be caused by a Milk Bone because he eats them too fast. They are pretty hard and could easily have a rough edge after he bites into one.

  10. I'm curious if anyone here has experienced an abrasion or cut inside the mouth or throat and what may have caused it?

     

    Rocket is always in my face when I'm sitting, and late yesterday I noticed a small vertical red line at the back of the mouth / beginning of the throat area. it looks more like an abrasion than a cut, but is dark red. It was not there previously.

     

    He did have a marrow bone last week, but it was not splintered and there was no sign of an issue that day. He pretty much licks the marrow out of the bone and doesn't do much chewing, so I'm doubtful that was the cause. He only gets a marrow bone once in a while, and i am with him the whole time.

     

    I need to establish him at the new vet since we moved, so will call for an appointment in case he needs to take an antibiotic. Just curious if anyone else has dealt with something similar and what, if anything was done for it.

     

    The only other thing that could have caused an abrasion is a Milk Bone, which is my real suspect since he wolfs them down.

     

    Thanks.

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